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Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi all,

I own a 2003 Boxster S, 12K miles and garage kept.

After a day in the sun with the top down, I went to raise the top and the lift motor stopped. Ugh. My first ever problem with the car.

I removed the ball joints/push rods and closed the top as instructed in the manual.

Planned to have it serviced but a month slipped by and I then figured I give it a try again. I lowered the top, reattached the rods and Bingo, it started working.

I raised it up a bit and down to make sure all was fine and as I was closing it, it stopped again.

I've removed the rods and closed it by hand again. So, I know it has power as I can hear a little surge of the motor if I tap the rocker switch.

Does anybody know if there is something else I can check? Any idea why it would quit like it does?

You guys seem to really know you cars and thought I'd ask.

I miss her going topless!

Posted

If it’s not crackling or crunching it moves smoothly when it does, I’d check electrical connections and the button itself. Also if it goes one way and not the other It could be one off the relays in the trunk. Theres also a big relay/circuit above the fuse box thats related.

Sometimes just pulling them out and giving the wrap on the ground will unstick them. Unplugging and plugging connections a couple times will help ensure a good connection.

And of course, make sure your hand break light is on. If its not, the switch in your handbrake is probably bad. The top won’t move

Regards, PK

Posted

No funny noises when it was working, it just stopped. The handbrake light is on, but I will look into the electrical switches. I have no idea where the ones in the truck are and would not know where to start getting to the one on the dash. It does seem like electrical error could be the problem as I wouldn't think any motors that power the roof could be fried being so new. I'll try the tips.

Thanks

Posted (edited)

There are 3 switches, 2 relays in the trunk and 1 double relay/circuit thing above the fuse box.

1) Switch 1; is right where the very back of the clamshell bottoms out, little lever on it

2) Switch 2; to is under the carpet right behind your left shoulder

3) Switch 3; is hidden up in the lock/latch. Reach up in the whole and you can trip it.

4) Separate up and down relays are in a hidden carrier behind the a side panel on the left (in the back trunk). Remove to black screws and slide the carrier out. If your top is indiscriminate about when it stop (going up or down) forget these.

5) Double relay is above fuse box. May need to remove that kick panel. You can’t miss it, it’s twice as big as the rest

That’s it from me for now, it’s late.

Regards, PK

Edited by pk2
Posted
How do I get to the one behind the drivers door and in the dash?

bakedmedia:

Since your Boxster is a 2003, the switch that is known as the "B-Pillar Microswitch" was actually relocated to the passenger side convertible top transmission. So, I don't believe you will find that switch where it was located in the earlier Boxsters.

The double relay that is found on the relay tray under the dash at the left (driver's side) kick panel is easy to spot. Get down on your hands and knees, facing forward, with the driver's side door open and you kneeling just outside the driver's entrance. Look under the dash and to the left, just above where you will see the rocker switch that manually operates the spoiler. Just above that rocker switch you will see a fuse panel. The relay tray is directly above the fuse panel and the double relay is located towards the right side (i.e., towards the front of the car. As PK said, it's the only double relay there and you can't miss it.

Your on again, off again problem sounds like it might possibly be caused by surface corrosion on the contacts of the double relay (both inside the relay, and where the spades of the relay plug into the carrier). I guess the corrosion might be accelerated by Seattle's wet weather.

Good luck, and let us know how you make out, or if you encounter any new symptoms.

Regards, Maurice.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Make sure you do what I did. Check all connection to the microswitch in the top/latch. Take out the plastic sensor covers and using a 'star' driver (or a 5mm flat head) undo the bolts either side. Drop the unit and inspect the connectors for rust etc. Give them a jiggle while pressing the top buttons to see if that helps. If not, go and have a cup of tea and scratch your head a while! :rolleyes:

Posted

IT WORKS!

Not sure what the glitch was but I found all the relays and switches you mentioned and gave 'em all a good jiggle/wack and inspection.

I think it was the relays over the fuse kick plate but who knows for sure. I hadn't yet pulled the latch apart as the windows still worked when I engaged the latch.

You all saved me hundreds $$$$..... now I can buy some fuel and a drink for me too!

Thanks all!

You can bet next time I'll look here first!

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