Paint Touchup

[woodenewe]

I purchase a Genuine Porsche touch up set from the dealer using the color code from the sticker on the car. Other than telling you not to inhale the stuff, there are no directions. The kit has 2 12 ml bottles with brushes attached to the caps. I searched the files for paint repair, touch-up, etc; no applicable links.

I would assume you should clean the surface of the paint chip (Q-Tip and mild solvent like paint thinner?), dab the color into the cavity and let flow out, allow to dry, then dab on the clear coat. Hopefully enough was applied to level out flat and not leave a blob above the surface.

Any advice or suggestions will be appreciated.

[1schoir]

I purchase a Genuine Porsche touch up set from the dealer using the color code from the sticker on the car. Other than telling you not to inhale the stuff, there are no directions. The kit has 2 12 ml bottles with brushes attached to the caps. I searched the files for paint repair, touch-up, etc; no applicable links.

I would assume you should clean the surface of the paint chip (Q-Tip and mild solvent like paint thinner?), dab the color into the cavity and let flow out, allow to dry, then dab on the clear coat. Hopefully enough was applied to level out flat and not leave a blob above the surface.

Any advice or suggestions will be appreciated.

It is very, very important to clean the surface with a proper cleaning agent before applying the paint. If you have access toan auto paint store, get a solven such as "Prepsol" or "Pre-Kleano". If not, you can use the original Formula 409 (it doesn't leave a residue to interfere with paint adhesion, the way most other household cleaning agents do).

If the paint chip has gone all the way down to bare metal, you must also remove any traces of oxidation (rust) on the surface of the metal. You can get a small "scratch pen", which is just a pen with fiberglass fibers in place of where the ink refill would normally go. This will help you "scratch" off any oxidation prior to applying the paint. If it has gone down to bare metal, you should also apply a very small dab of primer before applying the color and then the clear coat.

You can buy a spray can of automotive primer at Pep Boys, Autozone, etc. and then just spray some primer into a clean soda bottle plastic cap. Use the primer that has collected on the inside of the bottle cap and dab it onto the bare metal, if necessary.

Then apply the color into the chip and wait until that has dried a little. 10 minutes is usually enough in good weather conditions.

Now apply the clear in the same manner. Add another coat of clear or more if necessary.

Keep in mind that as the paint dries, it will always "retract" so be sure that for the last coat you let the blob of clear protrude slightly from the surface.

After the paint has had a chance to cure (one week is adequate), you can compound the surface with fine polishing compound to "melt in" the edges (not rubbing compound, which is too aggressive).

To get the best results, instead of using the paint brushes supplied with your kit, get an small artist's paint brush at a hobby or art supply store.

The most important aspect of repairing a rock chip is to be sure that you do not delay repaiiring a chip that has gone down to bare metal. Oxidation will start to occur almost immediately. If left unattended long enough the oxidation will start to seep under the surrounding primer coat and will eventually cause paint failure (blisters, etc...) in the immediate surrounding area such that even if you touch it up it will keep rusting under the surface.

Good luck!

Regards, Maurice.

Edited August 20, 2008 by 1schoir

[KevinMac]

I purchase a Genuine Porsche touch up set from the dealer using the color code from the sticker on the car. Other than telling you not to inhale the stuff, there are no directions. The kit has 2 12 ml bottles with brushes attached to the caps. I searched the files for paint repair, touch-up, etc; no applicable links.

I would assume you should clean the surface of the paint chip (Q-Tip and mild solvent like paint thinner?), dab the color into the cavity and let flow out, allow to dry, then dab on the clear coat. Hopefully enough was applied to level out flat and not leave a blob above the surface.

Any advice or suggestions will be appreciated.

It is very, very important to clean the surface with a proper cleaning agent before applying the paint. If you have access toan auto paint store, get a solven such as "Prepsol" or "Pre-Kleano". If not, you can use the original Formula 409 (it doesn't leave a residue to interfere with paint adhesion, the way most other household cleaning agents do).

If the paint chip has gone all the way down to bare metal, you must also remove any traces of oxidation (rust) on the surgace of the metal. You can get a small "scratch pen", which is just a pen with fiberglass fibers in place of where the ink refill would normally go. This will help you "scratch" off any oxidation prior to applying the paint. If it has gone down to bare metal, you should also apply a very small dab of primer before applying the color and then the clear coat.

You can buy a spray can of automotive primer at Pep Boys, Autozone, etc. and then just spray some primer into a clean soda bottle plastic cap. Use the primer that has collected on the inside of the bottle cap and dab it onto the bare metal, if necessary.

Then apply the color into the chip and wait until that has dried a little. 10 minutes is usually enough in good weather conditions.

Now apply the clear in the same manner. Add another coat of clear or more if necessary.

Keep in mind that as the paint dries, it will always "retract" so be sure that for the last coat you let the blob of clear protrude slightly from the surface.

After the paint has had a chance to cure (one week is adequate), you can compound the surface with fine polishing compound to "melt in" the edges.

To get the best results, instead of using the paint brushes supplied with your kit, get an small artist's paint brush at a hobby or art supply store.

The most important aspect of repairing a rock chip is to be sure that you do not delay repaiiring a chip that has gone down to bare metal. Oxidation will start to occur almost immediately. If left unattended long enough the oxidation will start to seep under the surrounding primer coat and will eventually cause paint failure (blisters, etc...) in the immediate surrounding area such that even if you touch it up it will keep rusting under the surface.

Good luck!

Regards, Maurice.

Rather than use compound which could hurt your surrounding clear coat, take a look at this. I tried it and recommend it to anyone.

http://www.autogeek.net/langka-paint-chip-repair-kit.html

Edited August 20, 2008 by KevinMac