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Recommended Posts

Posted

I just bought a Cayenne S, and I can't lock it with the fob. I press the button quickly, and it flashes twice. Then, I pull on the handle to make sure it's locked. Not only does it open, but the lights start flashing wildly (but no horn sounds). I'm assuming I activated the alarm system.

I can lock it using the key, but would rather not have to do that everytime. Is there something wrong with the doorlocks perhaps?

Posted
I would start be changing the battery in the remote fob.

That's the first thing I did. It's very strange. When I push the lock button on the fob, I see the turn signals flash twice indicating it's locked. But, it isn't. If I press it again, it flashes once saying it's unlocked.

To make matters worse, the flashing doesn't occur every time I push the button. A range issue perhaps?

This is really frustrating. I bought the car, and I can't drive it anywhere and lock it.

Incidentally, if I'm using the lock button on the driver door, I can only unlock. The lock function doesn't work. On the passenger door, I can use the lock and unlock buttons. Both door buttons only function if I have the ignition on.

Anyone have any other ideas? Thanks!

P.S. - I checked the central locking fuses, all OK

Posted

So, after some reading I heard that putting the key in the ignition and holding the lock/unlock button for 2 seconds may cause it to relearn. I briefly turned it to on position to get power working (but didn't start car), and then held button for 2 seconds. Took key out, and tried to lock the doors. It worked! Then, I unlocked. It worked!

Tried to do it again... and nothing. I tried to get the key to relearn, but no luck. I can't get it to unlock/lock anymore. I periodically can get the flashers to blink, but nothing mechanically happens. Ideas?

I would start be changing the battery in the remote fob.

That's the first thing I did. It's very strange. When I push the lock button on the fob, I see the turn signals flash twice indicating it's locked. But, it isn't. If I press it again, it flashes once saying it's unlocked.

To make matters worse, the flashing doesn't occur every time I push the button. A range issue perhaps?

This is really frustrating. I bought the car, and I can't drive it anywhere and lock it.

Incidentally, if I'm using the lock button on the driver door, I can only unlock. The lock function doesn't work. On the passenger door, I can use the lock and unlock buttons. Both door buttons only function if I have the ignition on.

Anyone have any other ideas? Thanks!

P.S. - I checked the central locking fuses, all OK

  • Moderators
Posted

A new remote is all you need. The dealer can do the program.

Posted
A new remote is all you need. The dealer can do the program.

That would be ideal. However, that couldn't be why the lock button doesn't work on the driver's door, could it? Or am I looking at two separate problems here? Thanks for the input!

  • Moderators
Posted

Probably there are different issues, let the car check on fault codes and program.

Posted
Probably there are different issues, let the car check on fault codes and program.

Yep, looks like I can't avoid a stealership appointment. It's weird how it works sometimes, and not others. Not sure if it's coincidence, but if I put the key in the ignition, and take it out and immediately push the remote, it sometimes works. So, it could very well be the remote not syncing. Then again, the dealers said that if I get flashing and no locking, it's not the remote and probably is the alarm module not signaling the central locks. Who knows?

Thanks RFM. BTW, I was born in Belgium... not sure if I've ever met anyone from there, though! Moved to the US very early...

  • Moderators
Posted

I'ts rather the remote which forget his roller code immediately IMHO, what doe's the second key ( remote )?

Posted
I'ts rather the remote which forget his roller code immediately IMHO, what doe's the second key ( remote )?

When I bought the car, I only got one key :( If the key forgets the rolling code, it wouldn't cause the alarm to flash though, right?

Looks like I need to get another remote control anyway. Now, I'm wondering if I should get it from the dealership or off of Ebay?

Posted
I'ts rather the remote which forget his roller code immediately IMHO, what doe's the second key ( remote )?

When I bought the car, I only got one key :( If the key forgets the rolling code, it wouldn't cause the alarm to flash though, right?

Looks like I need to get another remote control anyway. Now, I'm wondering if I should get it from the dealership or off of Ebay?

Well, it looks like another electrical gremlin has shown up. Now, I don't even see the "Comfort" option available in the Main Menu anymore. WTF? Good thing I have an extended bumper-to-bumper warranty on this thing. Now I know why they say not to buy the first model year...

  • Moderators
Posted

Over here the remote is not available separately, he comes with a blank or cut by order with the VIN. If the car is one of the first year, you need a two button system. I'm not a Ebay lover, but this is personally. Note all the problems and let check the car thoroughly.

Posted

hello,

I caught that you said it is a first model year, the '03 and '04 models have a notoriously bad remote/immobilizer system. It has had multiple updates to the remote and also to the control unit. It sounds as if you have a bad remote. The comfort settings are also a notorious problem for the first model years with multiple updates to the rear end control unit to fix these. It will require a good well equipped independent or dealership to remedy your problems. Even after the updates the remotes will still be a bit of a pain, Hence the total revision of the immobilizer system as of 2005 or 2006 models. I'm not sure if they are warrantied under some sort of campaign(recall) or not.

Good luck,

Porusheotoko

  • Moderators
Posted

There was no recall in Europe ( other frequency than US )

Posted
hello,

I caught that you said it is a first model year, the '03 and '04 models have a notoriously bad remote/immobilizer system. It has had multiple updates to the remote and also to the control unit. It sounds as if you have a bad remote. The comfort settings are also a notorious problem for the first model years with multiple updates to the rear end control unit to fix these. It will require a good well equipped independent or dealership to remedy your problems. Even after the updates the remotes will still be a bit of a pain, Hence the total revision of the immobilizer system as of 2005 or 2006 models. I'm not sure if they are warrantied under some sort of campaign(recall) or not.

Good luck,

Porusheotoko

Thanks for the info, good to know. I can't believe they had so many problems. My 02 911tt worked better than my newer Cayenne. I called the dealer, and there is no campaign or recall for the remote/immobilizer. Fortunately, I have an extended bumper to bumper which should cover it. Thanks for the input!

P.S. - The comfort setting is back as a menu choice. Not sure where it went before, but it's back for now! I'm not even talking about the comfort settings being saved, I'm talking about the actual word "Comfort" in the menu. It disappeared and then randomly came back!

  • Moderators
Posted

Comfort comes back when the car is standstill ( P ) / ignition key out / ignition key in / ignition on.

Posted
Comfort comes back when the car is standstill ( P ) / ignition key out / ignition key in / ignition on.

Thanks! I thought I was going crazy... still might be.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Well, with some more reading and help from rennlist, I fixed the problem!

Turns out I have the auxiliary battery option. So, I could start the car. BUT, the primary battery is what stores the remote code. The reason it was working sporadically was after a drive, the battery would be charged just enough for my remote to work. Sometimes, the battery would be strong enough to flash the lights, but NOT to unlock the doors. Then, it got to the point where my clock would reset randomly. I called the dealer, and asked about the cost of a battery. He asked if my AC took a while to turn on (which it does... maybe 30 seconds). The reason being that the auxiliary battery would take that long to resume control of the AC after the primary fails.

So, I bought a new primary battery (from Autozone, since the dealer was 30 minutes away and couldn't fit me in the schedule). Pricing was about the same ($120 vs $180 from dealer), but the Autozone battery came with an 8 year warranty (not sure if dealer part would). Dealer also said I had to charge the battery from them, which I thought was strange. Autozone battery was ready to go.

I had to order an M10 serrated 10mm tool to unbolt the seat to get to the primary battery. I found it locally, though, as well (if you can't tell, I'm impatient). If anyone needs this tool, let me know and I'll send you my extra one at my cost ($8). It's tough to find in stores, I had to go to a tool shop. It wasn't at Autozone or Advance Auto. I actually spent $8 in gas to get to the shop, too :)

Installed the battery, and now the remote works fine, AC works fine, etc. Next up... installing headrest monitors and an aftermarket seat heater kit for my wife. Thanks to everyone for their input, just thought I'd post in case someone comes across this problem in the future.

  • 2 months later...
Posted
first lesson with remotes, always change the battery first

To be clear, it wasn't the remote battery. It was the car's battery that needed changing. I have the optional second battery installed, which kept my car running. Primary battery was dead, though, which is why it wouldn't remember the remote's code.

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