Power Steering Fluid Capacity

[Baconaire]

First questions: How much Pentosin does a 98 Box need. I have 1 liter. Will I need more to fill a bone dry system?

I cooked the high pressure PS line after intalling new headers. The hose was $180 at Sunset($280 at Pelican) so I figure while I'm in there I'll replace the pump with a remaned one (only $200). Any tips? Looks like it might be a pain.

Advice: the headers on ebay are cheap and a great easy(so far) upgrade. You can really feel the added boost in performance. I would not hesitate. Now mine needed to be clearance with a hammer on the drivers side, and I had to grind the strut brace a little for clearance. But I bought them 3 years ago so could not return them. They are cheaper now and I imagine they have fixed the issue. They are cheap import stainless steel, but look fine and perform well. I painted the welds with high heat cermic duplicolor to try to fend of rust. They are not top of the line but for $150 for a good 15hp is a bargain. just be careful removing the old headers if rusted, bolts break easy. I am lucky enough to have a welder. The old may also fuse to the cat tube. Nice to have a grinder/cutof wheel handy. And a hammer!

The real advice here is watch for other clearance issues. Especially that power steering hose.

[Loren]

First questions: How much Pentosin does a 98 Box need. I have 1 liter. Will I need more to fill a bone dry system?

I cooked the high pressure PS line after intalling new headers. The hose was $180 at Sunset($280 at Pelican) so I figure while I'm in there I'll replace the pump with a remaned one (only $200). Any tips? Looks like it might be a pain.

Advice: the headers on ebay are cheap and a great easy(so far) upgrade. You can really feel the added boost in performance. I would not hesitate. Now mine needed to be clearance with a hammer on the drivers side, and I had to grind the strut brace a little for clearance. But I bought them 3 years ago so could not return them. They are cheaper now and I imagine they have fixed the issue. They are cheap import stainless steel, but look fine and perform well. I painted the welds with high heat cermic duplicolor to try to fend of rust. They are not top of the line but for $150 for a good 15hp is a bargain. just be careful removing the old headers if rusted, bolts break easy. I am lucky enough to have a welder. The old may also fuse to the cat tube. Nice to have a grinder/cutof wheel handy. And a hammer!

The real advice here is watch for other clearance issues. Especially that power steering hose.

Boxster power steering system (from dry) 1.0 liter.

[Sboxin]

"Any tips? Looks like it might be a pain"

Yes, it is time consuming. And, the pump comes in several pieces with seals between them.

Attached in Word Doc format are the instructions for R/R. (you may need to remove the

throttle body to get to the back of the pump)

I had an Indie do it - along with a PS line cooler (the return line has a plastic connector

at the pump that can melt at high temps = caused by oversized track tires).

Take care,

Ed

Edited June 6, 2008 by Loren
made image viewable

[Baconaire]

Yup, took about 1 liter. Tips:

If replacing the PS pump, I would use that prying tool. I have a trim tool that's very similar that I use for a lot of prying jobs (like ball linkages), but it did not fit the PS return line well and I hacked the little red connector. Otherwise its not too bad. You might want order a pulley($30) as well. I used the proper puller tool but it was on there so tight that it deformed the pulley. I hammered, filed and sanded down any areas of concern so as not to damage the belt until my pulley arives (the belt costs more than the pulley). If you have not replaced the polyrib belt in a while (several years) its good time to do that as well.(changing the belt requies a 24mm shallow socket and pry bar) Also take the time to clean the throttle body and air intake as it needs to be removed as well.

If replacing the PS High Pressure side LINE, then absolutely remove the AC compressor. It sounds like a pain but its pretty easy and will save a lot of time. I cannot see how you can remove or install the high pressure PS line w/o removing the AC compressor. Now, when disconnecting the freon lines I got a woosh and a tiny spritz of freon. So there may be a more preffered way to remove the AC compressor. Keep the AC lines and inputs very clean! After putting it back together I charged the AC with 134a w/oil, but that may not have be need. I did not want to take a chance.

Lastly its also nice to remove the drivers side seat, but if you run the car w/o the seat you will get an airbag light. Of course you want to run the car before zipping it all up to ensure no leaks and eveything runs right. So expect the airbag light. Only a dealer or the Durametic ODB tool can clear an airbag code. Other DIY ODB tools do not have the ability to clear airbag codes. So expect to have a Durametic (good tool for DIYers with laptops) or a visit to the dealer to clear the code.

Peplacing the PS pump is actually easier than replacing the high side line. So to sum up.

If replacing just the High Pressure line I would have on hand:

-New High Pressure line

-1 liter Pentosin

-An AC 134a charge kit with guage and oil

-A PS Pulley(optional)

-A Poly Rib belt if needed

(You should be able to leave the PS pump in place but may need to remove the AC compressor)

If replacing the PS Pump I would order:

-Remanufactured Luk Pump ($200)

-1 liter Pentosin

-Low pressure pry tool

-A PS Pulley(optional)

-A Poly Rib belt if needed

(This is actually easier than replacing lines. I don't beleive it would require removing the AC, just the trottle body and plenum)

In both cases you need to be familiar with Poly Rib belt replacement even if not putting a new one on. And for the pump or low side line need to be comfy removing the air intake and throttle body and plenum (and watch for the little emission tubes).