Battery was disconnected now cant turn key in ignition

[usaf-lt-g]

Hey guys,

I disconnected the battery while i worked on my car the past few days. I just finished putting most her back together minus the driver's door panel (but all the electrical is connected). I just now reconnected the battery, however I can't turn the key in the ignition. Literally, I can't turn it at all in the ignition. Whenever i hit the lock/unlock button it beeps at me once. What's going on here?

:huh:

Edited June 4, 2008 by usaf-lt-g

[usaf-lt-g]

Disregard... it was the dang wheel. Once I turned it a little, no issue. everthing came up fine.

[rsfeller]

Are you sure it's just not a coincidence and you have a bad (common) switch tumbler? Additionally, my would not turn either even after swapping the tumbler. It seems to me the design flaw in the steering lock is very sensitive. Even w/o the steering wheel turned I often have to turn the wheel and find the sweep spot (sometimes) to get the ignition to turn.

My wife called one day and could not get the car started. I drove and hour to help her and when I got their I made the discover that slightly turning the wheel (steering) one way or another found the spot to allow the unlocking.

As far as the beep, I do believe one beep does warn of an alarm failure. You'll have to review the owners manual or Bentley to confirm. Mine also does this from time to time and I have not been able to figure out the cause. Hasn't done it in 6 months but all last summer it was picky when engaging.

Durametric pulled error codes related to the inferred sensors which I believe Lauren said was common. Not sure if this causes my issues or not.

Regarldless my point is sometimes things are truely unrelated to the activy you just preformed and you car has other common issues with ignition tumblers and/or steering wheel interlocks.

[usaf-lt-g]

Are you sure it's just not a coincidence and you have a bad (common) switch tumbler? Additionally, my would not turn either even after swapping the tumbler. It seems to me the design flaw in the steering lock is very sensitive. Even w/o the steering wheel turned I often have to turn the wheel and find the sweep spot (sometimes) to get the ignition to turn.

My wife called one day and could not get the car started. I drove and hour to help her and when I got their I made the discover that slightly turning the wheel (steering) one way or another found the spot to allow the unlocking.

As far as the beep, I do believe one beep does warn of an alarm failure. You'll have to review the owners manual or Bentley to confirm. Mine also does this from time to time and I have not been able to figure out the cause. Hasn't done it in 6 months but all last summer it was picky when engaging.

Durametric pulled error codes related to the inferred sensors which I believe Lauren said was common. Not sure if this causes my issues or not.

Regarldless my point is sometimes things are truely unrelated to the activy you just preformed and you car has other common issues with ignition tumblers and/or steering wheel interlocks.

Interesting, the TSB on the install I did did say I would probably need to "clear error" codes... however, I'm not sure how to do that. I imagine it would either require me taking it to the dealership and having them clear it, or purchasing my own "device" to allow me to do so.

In regards to the tumbler, i don't think it's an issue. When i was literally on my back underneath the dash I moved the wheel a couple of times and it locked, which prevented me from turning the key. I haven't had the issue pop back up since.

On another note, I have noticed that the automatic "up / down" feature of my windows no longer works. I'm wondering if this is also related to the presence of error codes.

Per the TSB's Last step - "Read out fault memory of the control modules in the equipment with the PST2, check, and erase if necessary. Input Radio Code if Necessary."

Since I don't have a factory radio, the radio code is unnecessary. However, I'm wondering if other faults are present from the install, if that could be messing with things?

Thoughts?

[rsfeller]

Interesting that I never saw your 2nd post (cancel it was the wheel) until just now!

What were you specifically doing to your car from your original post that required the battery disconnect? It sounds like a ground or such may have been disrupted to cause issues with the alarm and now the window drop feature.

First, have we established the drop issue is in fact with both windows, or just one?

Are you still having the alarm issue?

Everything is good with starting the car now?

My personally opinion is that anyone who can own a somewhat expensive (and mildly exotic) car such a Porsche should have two things sitting on the bench if they are planning to DIY anything on the car. One is the Bentley manual and the other is the Duratmetric software. The 2nd will pay for itself after one trip to the P-dealer to have a simple CEL reset. Plus it can tell you many specific things that are bound to surface on your Boxster. Just spend the money and get it if you need to save money and know enough to take the connection off the battery!

It is posible to have error codes related to your alarm w/o a CEL light. So there is most likely codes in there.

Others can correct me but I doubt there are any codes related to window failure. It's a pretty low tech system in there. The window drop is controlled by a microswitch in the door handle. Did you do any work to disrupt the switch(es)?

[usaf-lt-g]

Interesting that I never saw your 2nd post (cancel it was the wheel) until just now!

What were you specifically doing to your car from your original post that required the battery disconnect? It sounds like a ground or such may have been disrupted to cause issues with the alarm and now the window drop feature.

First, have we established the drop issue is in fact with both windows, or just one?

Are you still having the alarm issue?

Everything is good with starting the car now?

My personally opinion is that anyone who can own a somewhat expensive (and mildly exotic) car such a Porsche should have two things sitting on the bench if they are planning to DIY anything on the car. One is the Bentley manual and the other is the Duratmetric software. The 2nd will pay for itself after one trip to the P-dealer to have a simple CEL reset. Plus it can tell you many specific things that are bound to surface on your Boxster. Just spend the money and get it if you need to save money and know enough to take the connection off the battery!

It is posible to have error codes related to your alarm w/o a CEL light. So there is most likely codes in there.

Others can correct me but I doubt there are any codes related to window failure. It's a pretty low tech system in there. The window drop is controlled by a microswitch in the door handle. Did you do any work to disrupt the switch(es)?

#1) Both windows do not "auto go down / up" they'll go down if I hold the button. They used to auto go up and down with a quick click on either button.

#2) Yes - Beeps once regardless

#3) Car starts fine

#4) When I did the install of the interior / exterior "Anti-Dazzle Mirrors" the TSB required me to disconnect the negative terminal on the battery as step #1. So I did that, and roughly it was disconnected for about 3-4 days.

#5) Technically the driver's side door panel is still disconnected. and off, although, I do believe I hooked up all the wires for the time being.

#6) Where exactly do I get that software from? I thought I needed some device to hook up and read the codes?

Thanks!

[usaf-lt-g]

Hmmm.... interesting.... well now, the problems don't seem to be present any longer. The CEL light is not on, the auto-up auto-down work, and the alarm is working approrpriately.... weird.

[rsfeller]

I didn't read your post correct, I see it was the "auto down" feature and not the "auto drop" when you open/close the door.

If the problem comes back you may have a ground issue.

As far as the durametric run a search on the site and/or google. All you need to know is out there. I don't want to sound short but there is much written here.

Durametric is the software (free) but you buy the cable ($200+) to go from USB to the Porsche port. It can run on any laptop or desktop but I found a it runs best for live values on Pentium 4 machines or P3 with LOTS of memory. Otherwise you will love it for simple codes and CEL resets. The guys who run created respond very well and at my request got the HVAC portion working so I could see realtime values of the motor/servos of the AAC system while troubleshooting a lack of heat. Good guys, good product...

Even if you don't have a laptop I slapped it on a $100 P3 I had around my office until I got my new laptop for home. I put the software on three computers in my world and simply carry the cable in the car so regardless if I'm at home, work or my summer place I can pull the codes, if needed.

You'll wnat it some day when you 02, MAF, belt buckles (SRS) and such start rearing their ugly heads. These are all DIY items for someone such as yourself and you will love the fact you spent the money on the software and can get the parts need cheap from the site sponser(s) all for the cost of talking to the guy at the Porsche Dealer desk!

[usaf-lt-g]

Took your advice and purchased the Durametric software as well. Hopefully, this will also help indicate what my cooling problem is that I have.

Thanks!

[rsfeller]

I do recall some of your cooling discussion but what was the primary issue again. Slow warm up? I know it flux'd some but nothing to be concerned about. Change that thermostat as we discussed. Otherwise the will most likly be no error codes or help to tell you about the cooling system.

Now it will give you "real time" values of different coolant sensors on the system, assuming they are working correctly.

[usaf-lt-g]

I do recall some of your cooling discussion but what was the primary issue again. Slow warm up? I know it flux'd some but nothing to be concerned about. Change that thermostat as we discussed. Otherwise the will most likly be no error codes or help to tell you about the cooling system.

Now it will give you "real time" values of different coolant sensors on the system, assuming they are working correctly.

Essentially, the original problem occurred after pulling in one day to the garage after my new transmission was installed. Got home, coolant everywhere, looked to be coming from the coolant tank. Re-filled with standard Green-type coolant (yes I know Porsche takes a different coolant, but from what i read there's nothing "special" about it) and re-tightened the cap to make sure it had proper seal. I haven't seen it leaking since.

However, the standard temperature reads out as normal on the gauge between 190 - 200 aprox. I've also confirmed the cooling fan running. Yet the Temp Gauge light blinks slowly and steady as soon as the car is turned on.

[Q-Ship986]

When you disconnect the battery, the windows have to re-learn their upper and lower travel limits. This is done by "teaching" the windows: pressing and holding the window switches until the windows are completely up or down and then vice versa. Basically, what you did. It's in the owner's manual somewhere. --Brian

[judgejon]

When you disconnect the battery, the windows have to re-learn their upper and lower travel limits. This is done by "teaching" the windows: pressing and holding the window switches until the windows are completely up or down and then vice versa. Basically, what you did. It's in the owner's manual somewhere. --Brian

right, been there, done that. sometimes you'll need to repeat the process a few times. also, the alarm will beep once if you set it and something, like the glovebox, is open.