Need a few Techincal Manual Instructions

[usaf-lt-g]

Hey guys,

Figured I'd post this in a different thread although it is related to the Interior Mirror upgrade. I'm looking for Technical Manual instructions for the Following:

Technical Manual Group 6 Service No. 68 12 19

Technical Manual Group 9 Service No. 96 85 19

Technical Manual Group 7 Service No. 94 05 19

Technical Manual Group 7 Service No. 72 01 19

Technical Manual Group 5 Service No. 55 10 37

If anyone has this info, I would GREATLY appreciate it! Thanks!

v/r

-Chris-

[usaf-lt-g]

Specifically i'm looking for information removing the:

socket for the guide pin of the convertible top

passenger compartment monitoring sensor

side vent with main light switch

and the driver's seat

[Loren]

Most of those have been covered here already (in plain English).

[juniinc]

& very easy,,,

[usaf-lt-g]

& very easy,,,

I found most of it... disregard. The other stuff I guessed on and was ok. Thanks!

[usaf-lt-g]

So yea... got as far as the driver's seat... when I noticed "this little guy..."

:huh:

Went to Home Depot, Menards, and Ace Hardware... had the HARDEST time trying to explain exactly what it was I was looking for. Told them I needed a Torque type Socket, female, not like a screwdriver. Didn't matter though, they all pointed me to the direction of a standard torque type driver.

First off, what size are these bolts... and 2nd off, where the heck do I get a "socket" to fit these? I was hoping to wrap up my install today, but it's almost looking as if I'll have to order it online or something.

-Chris-

[Loren]

Covered here before also...

E12 Torx socket - some folks say a US 3/8" socket will also work.

[kbrandsma]

I have just used a 10mm socket and Bob's your Uncle! (it worked!)

[artster]

I have just used a 10mm socket and Bob's your Uncle! (it worked!)

It's an external torx socket - I recently picked up this for about 20 bucks (had it in a couple days):

http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/lis26280.html

I figured it's a set that might come in handy with this car.

-Art

[usaf-lt-g]

I have just used a 10mm socket and Bob's your Uncle! (it worked!)

It's an external torx socket - I recently picked up this for about 20 bucks (had it in a couple days):

http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/lis26280.html

I figured it's a set that might come in handy with this car.

-Art

Thanks guys, yea actually, I found out my local "Sears" store had a set of External Torx sockets. Just got back, E-12 Fits perfect and made it easy!

[usaf-lt-g]

Drat... Now I have a new problem.

I need to remove the Driver's Side door sill, and low and behold, another type of tool is required. It's not a torx bolt though. It's a Hex type pattern, only with the prong in the middle. So I need some sort of Hex tool with a hole in the middle. I have TORX ones like that but not Hex.

Does anyone know the exact size I need, and what the actual tool is called so I can figure out if I can even find it anywhere?

Thanks

-Chris-

[juniinc]

I'm just wondering why removing your driver seat? if U are, try not to disconnect the wire hardness. most times air bag light will be tripped

[usaf-lt-g]

I'm just wondering why removing your driver seat? if U are, try not to disconnect the wire hardness. most times air bag light will be tripped

I'm upgrading the Internal and Exterior Rear-view mirrors to Auto-Dimming. The TSB says to disconnect the battery first, then remove the seat, and disconnect the wiring harness. I need to partially remove the driver's side door sill in order to run the correct cables from the mirror to underneath the seat. The TSB mentions "Weld Point 21" under the seat... i'm not exactly sure where this is, but I have to connect a wire there as well.

So far, it looks as though the door sill is held on by 3 HEX Security type bolts (not torx). Not sure what size, not sure where to get tool.

[juniinc]

I see , just read that TSB. U only need to access the central alram module lead for the reverse gear signal.

I wouldn't even mess with that if I were U.

I'm doing a auto dimming headlight senor+auto interior sensor here soon(OEM parts too$$$/100% unversal parts modified)

So I will need to access my alarm module in order for the headlights come on when I unlock the car+stays for 30 seconds when locked.

[Loren]

I'm just wondering why removing your driver seat? if U are, try not to disconnect the wire hardness. most times air bag light will be tripped

I'm upgrading the Internal and Exterior Rear-view mirrors to Auto-Dimming. The TSB says to disconnect the battery first, then remove the seat, and disconnect the wiring harness. I need to partially remove the driver's side door sill in order to run the correct cables from the mirror to underneath the seat. The TSB mentions "Weld Point 21" under the seat... i'm not exactly sure where this is, but I have to connect a wire there as well.

So far, it looks as though the door sill is held on by 3 HEX Security type bolts (not torx). Not sure what size, not sure where to get tool.

Harbor Freight $7.99

Hex end to 1/4'' drive adapter, magnetic hex bit driver, hook hanging bit ('Y- design), 1/4'' hex to 1/4'' socket drive bit and 1/4'' hex wobble adapter; also includes 8 Phillips, 8 Pozi drive, 9 slotted, 4 spanner, 9 torque, 4 tri-wing, 9 hollow tip torque, 3 torque-set, 9 metric hex, 4 square, 10 SAE hex, 3 spline, 6 hollow metric hex, 6 hollow SAE hex and 3 clutch bits;

[usaf-lt-g]

I'm just wondering why removing your driver seat? if U are, try not to disconnect the wire hardness. most times air bag light will be tripped

I'm upgrading the Internal and Exterior Rear-view mirrors to Auto-Dimming. The TSB says to disconnect the battery first, then remove the seat, and disconnect the wiring harness. I need to partially remove the driver's side door sill in order to run the correct cables from the mirror to underneath the seat. The TSB mentions "Weld Point 21" under the seat... i'm not exactly sure where this is, but I have to connect a wire there as well.

So far, it looks as though the door sill is held on by 3 HEX Security type bolts (not torx). Not sure what size, not sure where to get tool.

Harbor Freight $7.99

Hex end to 1/4'' drive adapter, magnetic hex bit driver, hook hanging bit ('Y- design), 1/4'' hex to 1/4'' socket drive bit and 1/4'' hex wobble adapter; also includes 8 Phillips, 8 Pozi drive, 9 slotted, 4 spanner, 9 torque, 4 tri-wing, 9 hollow tip torque, 3 torque-set, 9 metric hex, 4 square, 10 SAE hex, 3 spline, 6 hollow metric hex, 6 hollow SAE hex and 3 clutch bits;

Hmmm, only problem is, the holes are quite small. I know my regular 1/4' driver is too big to fit in there. It's almost as if I need a really long HEX Security bit that's small enough to fit in there.

[Loren]

Wait... are you talking about the door sill with the front and rear latch handles?

If so, see the DIY here -- they are plane hex and they don't need to come all the way out.

[RFM]

Maybe i'm wrong, the door sill ( with the front and rear trunk controls ) is still hold by two allen bolts 5mm.

[usaf-lt-g]

Maybe i'm wrong, the door sill ( with the front and rear trunk controls ) is still hold by two allen bolts 5mm.

Hmmm yea that's what I was going by, and I have a 5mm hex allen wrench but it wasn't fitting. Then i peeked inside with a flash light, and looked like they were "security" type hexes. Maybe i'm wrong ??

[usaf-lt-g]

Need a little help here, as the TSB isn't very clear here. See image first

It references plugging the wires I just ran over by where the fuse box is into "an unused pin of multi-pin bridge plug BS 16/2 found in relay support 1." For both pins 1 and 2.

I'm not sure what the multi-ping bridge plug BS 16/2 is or where relay support 1 is. Does anyone have any pictures or can point me in the right direction here? Thanks again... sorry for all the weird questions. Good thing I've stocked up on tools over the years ;)

[juniinc]

found in RLEAY SUPPORT 1,

refer to Terchnical group 9, Circuit Diagrams

upper left corner is your relay BS 16/2

Edited June 16, 2009 by juniinc

[usaf-lt-g]

found in RLEAY SUPPORT 1, you have to know where that is <_<

refer to Terchnical group 9, Circuit Diagrams

upper left corner is your relay BS 16/2

Sorry about that, I received little to no information when I bought my Porsche, so learning the lay of the vehicle's systems are still relatively new to me. The little technical information I do have, is incomplete in many instances.

[usaf-lt-g]

So, I decided that rather than purchase a $309.00 replacement harness for 2 additional wires that need to be run from the new Interior "Anti-Dazzle" rearview mirror to the Driver's Side Exterior mirror... that there had to be a better way.

I decided that it was much easier to remove the X11 Plug from the driver's side door, and route the 2 additional wires through the stock door harness opening and in through the door, up along to where the stock Driver's side mirror "plug" is located.

The NEW plug has exactly 2 more pins (hence the 2 wires I am running) than the original.

I decided to take a look at more detail at the actual plug connector

Here you can see the original factory harness plug which is attached to my driver's side door which connects to the Exterior Rear-View Anti-Dazzle mirror connector

In this image I've removed back part of the rubber housing of the plug to expose the connections. This is where I would like to plug the yellow and green wire into Pin 1 and Pin 2 of this connector

These are the 2 wires which will activate the "anti-dazzle mode" of the new mirror assembly. You can see here that they were fitted with a different type of connector on the end that will not allow me to simply plug them into the unused Pin 1 and Pin 2 ports of the factory plug.

This is an image of the "new" external anti-dazzle mirror plug that the harness connects to. Note that there are 2 extra pins here (Pin 1 and Pin 2) used for the Anti-Dazzle.

What I would "like" to do is replace the ends of the yellow and green wires with a connector I can plug into the stock wire plug. This way I won't have to tap directly into the mirror, and will have saved myself $309 for a new harness. The question is, what type of connector could i use to do this and what size? It will need to be some-type of female ended connector that will allow the new "pins" to make contact once the plug is connected. I had a couple of female connectors i thought might work for this from an older project, but they are too big. Not quite sure what they're called or even where to begin looking for something to fit this. Any ideas?

Advance Thanks!

Edited June 3, 2008 by usaf-lt-g

[juniinc]

yup , pretty good idea,,,I think its time for u to pay a visit to Radio Shack. Also if tapping with the relay is too complicated, might get away by using the phone ready power inside the center console?

[usaf-lt-g]

Also, this is probably one of those questions that has been addressed already I'm sure... but is there any easy way to take off the door handle mechanism from the door panel and reconnect it later? I was looking at it earlier, but it looks like it's pretty "spring loaded" and might be difficult to disengage and reconnect.

Reason I ask, is because I think it's basically just leaning up against the side of the door right now on it's side, and everytime i'm on the ground working my big foot seems to knock it down 3-4 times everytime. Tell me that's not annoying :thumbup:

I'd just like to place it out of the way with everything else. My garage is a mess of parts right now lol.

:thankyou: