Pre 04 PSE dash switch retrofit

[CT986S]

Has anyone out there retrofitted the dash switch to a pre-04 986S? I have the switch, and the manuals (+TSBs) but I can't figure out how to do it.

If you know, or know someone that has done it, please spill. I don't need "wire a switch" response, what I need is what wires go to and from the switch in an 01S.

I understand my relay (series 02) has the capability to quiet the system via the gr/pk wire from the speedo, what I want to do is not have it speed dependant but be able to switch it at will.

TIA, my PSE is literally only half installed as we speak and I am getting desperate... :cursing:

K

PS, I know, I don't ask much... :)

[Loren]

Just do not connect the gray/pink wire.

[LemmyCaution]

Just do not connect the gray/pink wire.

Does this apply equally to 1999 Boxster? I have a 2004 PSE installed but have not installed the electronics and wish to do so.

[Loren]

Fundamentally they are the same.

I suggest you add the switch so you can control it and do not add the speedometer control.

The speedometer control was rally meant for Switzerland where they have noise laws between 30 and 40 MPH.

[LemmyCaution]

Fundamentally they are the same.

I suggest you add the switch so you can control it and do not add the speedometer control.

The speedometer control was rally meant for Switzerland where they have noise laws between 30 and 40 MPH.

Over the weekend, I reconfigured the vacuum lines from my old PSE and replaced some worn sections.

Yesterday, I decided to tackle the electronics and have found the supplied TSB to be cryptic at the least and inscrutable at worst. At least the portions that involve wiring the relay:

2.1.3 Realign the socket contacts of the 3 wires (wiring harness switch) in the relay socket as follows:

Wire Color Slot Diameter Function

GY/GN A4 0.35 mm LED switch indicator light

RD/GY A7 0.35 mm On/Off switch

AND

2.6 Realign jumper plug in relay carrier 1 with leads of the electrical wiring harness as follows:

Wire Color Slot Diameter Function

GY/PK 23 BS 1/1 0.35 mm Speedometer A signal

GY/BU/BN 25 BS 5/1 0.35 mm Lighting (terminal 58A)

BN 28 BS 11 0.5 mm Ground (Term. 31)

I'm confused - some of the lugs on the harness are physically larger than the specified blades on the relay. According to the TSB - the multi RD/BU connector should be where the BR was - at blade 2 of the relay...

Any thoughts?

[Loren]

Are you sure you are reading the terminal connections correctly?

[LemmyCaution]

Are you sure you are reading the terminal connections correctly?

You mean the 'pins' on the relay I assume? Yes - I plugged the relay into the socket, then read the numbers off the relay. Here's what the relay looks like:

(corrected diagram 11/20/2008)

Note: What concerns me are the words ' realign socket contents' - I assume this means move wires and lugs right? Then 'realign jumper plug in relay carrier 1' Jumper Plug?

I assume that the 3 small square lugs go to terminals in the empty carrier below the relays.

Edited November 21, 2008 by LemmyCaution

[Loren]

Here is the PSE relay wiring diagram (for MY04) - match this and you will be fine.

[LemmyCaution]

Here is the PSE relay wiring diagram (for MY04) - match this and you will be fine.

Thanks Loren - I'll have a look at the relay etc.

On first take, the new diagram seems to be more like what I have.

So, was I correct in assuming that 'realign' meant 'move' the connectors on the supplied relay socket?

As originally discussed - probably best to leave the 'pink' wire off.

Edited November 12, 2008 by LemmyCaution

[LemmyCaution]

Thanks - I think the last diagram answered my questions. My confusion came from the apparent need to reterminate the ground for A3 (the other end terminates on the relay block ground I guess)and to reterminate the gy/pk wire for A6. (I'll do this even though I don't plan to use the gy/pk wire).

I'll let you know how it turns out.

[LemmyCaution]

One more question before I complete the process:

On TSB 2601, page 5, line 2.6:

Realign jumper plug in relay carrier 1 with leads of the electrical wiring harness as follows:

Wire Color Slot Diameter Function

GY/PK 23 BS 1/1 .35mm Speedometer A signal

GY/BU/BN 25 BS 5/1 .35mm Lighting (term 58A)

BN 28 BS 1 1 .5mm Ground (term 31)

The other ends of these are connected to relay. (except for the Grey/Blue/Brown which is connected to switch

To what do 23 BS 1/1 etc. refer?

Is it the Black carrier attached to and below the relays?

Or is it the fuse block?

Porsche's naming protocols are cryptic - until someone describes them at least. :)

Edited November 14, 2008 by LemmyCaution

[Loren]

23 BS is the relay location in the relay mounting block.

Actually you could use any open (unused/blank) relay location.

[LemmyCaution]

Makes sense - thanks.

Once this is done - life will be normal again. Now the flaps are closed all the time (I'm using the Gen1 connection at this point).

The car is so quiet! It will be nice to have some control over the sound.

[LemmyCaution]

One more question before I complete the process:

On TSB 2601, page 5, line 2.6:

Realign jumper plug in relay carrier 1 with leads of the electrical wiring harness as follows:

Wire Color Slot Diameter Function

GY/PK 23 BS 1/1 .35mm Speedometer A signal

GY/BU/BN 25 BS 5/1 .35mm Lighting (term 58A)

BN 28 BS 1 1 .5mm Ground (term 31)

The other ends of these are connected to relay. (except for the Grey/Blue/Brown which is connected to switch

To what do 23 BS 1/1 etc. refer?

Is it the Black carrier attached to and below the relays?

Or is it the fuse block?

Porsche's naming protocols are cryptic - until someone describes them at least. :)

[LemmyCaution]

One more last question. (RESOLVED as of Monday November 17, 2008)

All is installed but:

1. Switch backlighting is constantly ON - regardless of whether lights are on or off. Regardless of whether relay is plugged in or not (I suspect this involves the grey/Blue and Brown lead from the switch to the relay carrier
   
2. Switch indicator lamp is constantly ON as long as the relay is plugged in.
   
3. Pressing the switch causes the dash/indicator lamps to dim briefly and very slightly.
   

Resolution/condition as of Monday AM:

RD/GY and GY/RD wires were reversed! FYI will update my relay carrier diagram later today. I have paying career work to do first!

Since I spent all day on this and didn't feel like driving, I cannot confirm whether the valve in the engine compartment is working or not.

The problems seem to involve only the wiring of the relay - relay carrier so at least MOST of the work is completed.

1. I found several threads that cleared up most of my confusion -
   
2. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...;hl=pse+install
   (esp: 11. The pin numbers on the face of the new relay holder are TINY and white on white. Rub a pencil lightly over them, and the numbers will be much easier to read as you go.)
   
3. Fully Switched PSE - ...
   
4. Eddy - no tools hack
   
5. Note regarding relay CARRIER base numbering (and many other discrepancies)
   One of the biggest problems I had was thinking that the numbers on the schematics corresponded to the pins on the relay. It wasn't until I fired up a halogen desklamp and used a 5x photo loupe that I could even see numbers. Rubbing them gently with a soft pencil really helped.
   

AND as Kim (last link author) states:

* Most important lesson: never attempt any project of this magnitude without quick and easy access to RennTech.

I cannot emphasize how helpful Loren and the other PSE threads on this site have been.

Edited November 18, 2008 by LemmyCaution

[LemmyCaution]

A further note

Pressing the switch does not engage the system- system is installed per the above diagrams and I have verified all connections between the relay, the dash switch and the changeover valve. Switch has backlight, LED lights when switch is pressed. Changeover valve appears to be correctly routed between the engine and the exhaust actuators. Actuators engage when attached directly to vacuum.

I am mystified. The only thing the I did not connect is the pink/gy wire per Loren's prior suggestion. When I feel like dealing with this again, I guess I will attach that wire and see what happens.

Thoughts anyone?

[Loren]

Can you diagram how you did wire it?

[LemmyCaution]

Can you diagram how you did wire it?

Wired per diagrams you provided in post 2 and post 8. FYI I did not use the relay diagram that I drew after reading on one of the other PSE posts that the diagrams referred to the numbers on the Delrin router base. I will edit that diagram per notes as soon as I can.

I was very careful to verify that there is a hot lead fuse 10, row B -to the changeover valve and to the switch and relay and that ground is good.

The only issue separating this from any other x96 installation is:

- Gen One PSE was originally installed - looking at the TSB, there doesn't appear to be any conflicting wiring (except that there is a pk/gy lead connected to 25 BS). I removed the harness from the relay to the changeover valve and removed the relay from the carrier.

Aside from the actuator valves not working:

- Backlighting is ON all the time. I suspect that this is either a jumper issue or due to placing the jack in the wrong place on 23 BS. BTW: Who makes a good pin/socket/plug remover kit for these relays?

I'm at a client site - without physically looking at the relay block - I'm pretty lost except that I did follow your diagrams very carefully.

There has to be a mistake somewhere or a discrepancy between 99 and 2004 wiring that I missed.

Edited November 19, 2008 by LemmyCaution

[Loren]

Here is the complete diagram for a MY04 Boxster.

The switch was not an option (nor was there a diagram before MY03 - but I know folks have done the same switch mod on older Carrera's.

[LemmyCaution]

Here is the complete diagram for a MY04 Boxster.

The switch was not an option (nor was there a diagram before MY03 - but I know folks have done the same switch mod on older Carrera's.

Thanks - that's the diagram that I used. (That and the enlarged one above).

Do you think the pink/grey connector is an issue?

I had planned to install as you suggested - without it so that the switch would effectively just be an on/off switch.

When I have some time, I'll remove the relay block again and have a look - unless it's the pk/gy wire, there's got to be a reasonable explanation. The only one I can think of now is that I could have swapped RD/GY for GY/RD at the relay but, I was very careful.

[Loren]

If you have a voltmeter it should be pretty easy to test voltages. Check the power sources and then check the relay output (to the solenoid) in each switch position.

[LemmyCaution]

If you have a voltmeter it should be pretty easy to test voltages. Check the power sources and then check the relay output (to the solenoid) in each switch position.

Thanks - I should have done that yesterday. I'll let you know where the problem is. Probably won't get to it until the weekend.

[LemmyCaution]

Voltages all checked out fine - (from memory):

Relay #2 +12

Relay #3 -GND

Relay #5 & 7 showed voltage when switch was actuated.

Relay #4 is the LED and I know that works...

So - I removed the entire PSE 1st Gen wiring harness (except the rear harness which I had already removed) and put everything back together.

Works perfectly - If I could offer a full explanation of how the first gen wiring harness defeated the new installation but, it really doesn't matter.

There are a couple of minor loose ends that I will address this weekend -bolting down the vacuum switch (it's ziptied now) and securing the armored tekalan feeds so they don't rattle against the heatshields when actuated.

The OFF setting is really helpful when driving into and out of my neighborhood. Since 99s are inherently louder than the later models w/4 cats, even with the flaps closed, the exhaust note is a little louder than stock. Opening the flaps introduces more high frequency overtones.

Thanks again for all the help. I could not have completed this without Renntech.