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Posted

Hello,

I am planning on doing the 60K mile maintenance work on my '98 Boxster. I'll do it myself, thanks to the DIY articles and various posts on this site. I am planning on doing the following:

* Replace front brake pads / sensors (the rear pads are still thick and I think I'll wait for the next time to change those). I found Mintex pads on eBay and I heard they are decent for street use

* Replace spark plugs (stock from Sunset Imports)

* Replace polyrib belt (stock from Sunset Imports)

* Replace fuel filter (stock from Sunset Imports)

* Replace air filter, cabin filter

* Clean radiators

I do have a few questions:

1) I live in Ohio - is Mobil 1 0W40 (European Car Formula) OK for my location? I know Porsche uses 0W40 and I found the oil on sale and I grabbed it, but I wanted to make sure.

2) Is it OK to use a NAPA oil filter (7211)? The shop I got the oil from told me that "Mobil 1 doesn't make oil filters for that car". It was hard to believe, but since they didn't have a Mobil 1 filter I got the NAPA one...

3) I read the article about putting the car on 4 jacks, but that is for a 996. What is the best way to raise a Boxster? I read somewhere a reference to "alternate mounting points" but I haven't been able to find the article that talks about that topic

4) Any piece of advice from your experience that I need to know prior to starting? :)

Thank You all for your assistance,

azzar0

  • Admin
Posted

1. Yes.

2. I highly recommend the Porsche filter or one of it's OEMs (Mahl, or Mann).

3. Use the jack points for the jack stands.

4. Make sure you have all your parts and tools. Absolutely make sure the car is properly supported on good jack stands before getting under neath it.

I never get under the car if I don't have too (i.e spark plugs can be change by removing one rear wheel at a time.

Posted
1. Yes.

2. I highly recommend the Porsche filter or one of it's OEMs (Mahl, or Mann).

3. Use the jack points for the jack stands.

4. Make sure you have all your parts and tools. Absolutely make sure the car is properly supported on good jack stands before getting under neath it.

I never get under the car if I don't have too (i.e spark plugs can be change by removing one rear wheel at a time.

I am going to get a Porsche oil filter when I get the oil filter wrench and a new aluminum sealing ring. I am not planning on getting under the car too much. I just need to get to the oil plug / filter and change the fuel filter. The fuel filter is where I'll be under the car mostly, I can get to the oil plug from the side with my arm extended (I think).

Regarding raising the car - I understand that I have to use the jack points for the jack stands, but should I lift the car from the back (after I place the front on jack stands) from the engine block / crossover bar? I found this picture in a recent thread that specifies the rear jack point - is this safe to use?

post-21160-1209357522_thumb.jpg

Thanks again Loren.

  • Moderators
Posted

The oil filter sold by Napa is made by Wix. I put in this filter during my last oil change. It is the one on the left. Bought it from a parts place down the street.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...p;hl=unapproved

Also bought an air filter from the same parts place. It comes in a Wix box but is made by Mann, same company that makes the air filter sold by Porsche.

The belt I bought from Kragen for 19.99. It is made by Goodyear in Canada.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=2325

So it is not necessary to always buy service parts from Porsche.

post-4-1209396545_thumb.jpg

post-4-1209396563_thumb.jpg

post-4-1209396782_thumb.jpg

Posted

Can someone post links to DIY's...I have been "hunting" the site and I have a hard time locating.

* Replace front brake pads / sensors

* Replace spark plugs (stock from Sunset Imports)

* Replace polyrib belt (stock from Sunset Imports)

* Replace fuel filter (stock from Sunset Imports)

* Replace air filter, cabin filter

* Clean radiators

azzar0, happy 60th :)

Posted
Can someone post links to DIY's...I have been "hunting" the site and I have a hard time locating.

azzar0, happy 60th :)

Thanks Thanassis :)

All of the DIY links are in the 996 DIY section as I found out, because most projects apply to Boxsters as well, with minor (if any) differences.

Here are the links I used:

* Replace front brake pads / sensors:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=7065

http://www.bombaydigital.com/boxster/projects/brakes/

* Replace spark plugs:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=7059

* Replace polyrib belt:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=7061

* Replace fuel filter:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=7062

* Clean radiators:

http://www.realtime.net/~rentner/Porsche/R...r/Radiator.html

You might also be interested in these links:

How to put your car on 4 jack stands:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=3404

and / or

http://boxsters.addr.com/jacking.htm

Good luck

Posted

Well - it's all done :)

It took me a couple of afternoons / evenings (I started yesterday around 3 PM, stopped around 10 PM last night, started again around 3 PM today and I was done by 9 PM), but I got everything done.

It took me a good hour to figure out the best way to put the car up on four jacks. I used the "alternate" jacking points method and I was able to lift the car up without any problems.

Taking the bumper cover out was not hard - just tidious (I hate those plastic rivets, pain in the butt - good thing I bought replecemnts prior to starting this project). The radiators looked good, I vacuumed a little, changed the side lights (to match the xenons), and put everything back together.

Next I did the brakes. My brake lights have been on and off for the past few months, but the pads still had some life so I put it off until the light came on almost constantly. I noticed that the right pads were worn more than the left ones - is this normal or should I check something? The right front pads were almost gone while the left ones still had about 30% left (the sensor wire was still intact).

The rear pads still had about 65% left, but I decided to change them anyway. I reused the sensor wires (although I had new ones). I could have left the old pads in, but since I have to go through the 'bedding' of the pads period I figured I might as well do it for all wheels at once. No surprises here, easy job...

Next I tackled the spark plugs. I really didn't have any problems - a bit ackward to get to #1 and #4 (the ones towards the front of the car), but really not that bad. The only problem I had was after I put everything back - cylinder #2 was throwing a missfire error because the wire wasn't snapped all the way in. I went back and, after a few attempts, I was able to snap it in. I cleared the fault code and haven't had any problems since.

Once I had new spark plugs, it was time for an oil change. Other than being messy, it wasn't hard at all. I used a tool from AutoZone for the oil filter (the "B" type, part # 25401, as suggested by gandrade1 and chaser), and everything went very smoothly.

I attempted the fuel filter last night but I wasn't able to figure out how to get to it. Thanks to ToolPants and goldnogard, I was able to revisit the fuel filter today and finally snapped it out and put the new one in. This was the hardest part of the project. It was also the only part where I had to be under the car a lot, which I didn't really enjoy that much...

After the fuel filter was replaced I started the car to make sure that everything still works - and it did. I put the protective shield back under the car, placed the wheels, brought the car down and torqued the wheel bolts. At this point all I had to do was replace the polyrib belt. It took me less than 10 minutes to have the old one out and the new one in!

I took the car out for a spin and it ran beautifully. I didn't notice any significant improvements (my car never did have rough idles or anything like that to begin with), but knowing that I did all of the 60K maintenance service by myself gave me an immense feeling of achievement.

I have yet to change the air filter and the cabin filter. They were out of them when I checked. That's a 2 minute job and I am not worried about it though.

All in all it was a great experience! AND it saved me a LOT of money, even though I purchased all Porsche-approved parts.

I would like to thank all of you for creating, participating, and helping others in this great forum! I wouldn't have been able to do any of this without this outstanding library of human knowledge.

azzar0.

  • 11 months later...
Posted

azzar0:

Excellent work, excellent industriousness, and excellent results! :clapping:

Thanks for sharing your work and the links!

Regards, Maurice.

Posted

Far be it for me to question Loren. :soapbox: But I'm doing my 5k mile oil change this month and will be using 5W-40.

You'll have to scroll down this link to get to the key parts. And read a lot on the LN Engineering research from Charles Navarro. Including the question "Why consider diesel oil in a gas engine?"

http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html#Z8.

I think this subject matter has been covered here before, but the debate continues in a lot of places..

My new LN Engineering canister filter adapter just arrived for use with the K&N Gold HP-1007 filter. Very high quality piece of machining. I'll try to take some pics later this month when I do the oil change. :wrench:

I have no association with LNE or Jake Raby. But admire both.

Oh, and become a Contributing Member so you can read the TSB on currently approved oils. And other TSBs. :renntech:

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
azzar0:

Excellent work, excellent industriousness, and excellent results! :clapping:

Thanks for sharing your work and the links!

Regards, Maurice.

Thanks Maurice :)

I am getting ready to do my 75K maintenance tomorrow. Changing air filter, cabin filter, and oil. Last time I had the car up on jacks but I may try to get the oil change without lifting the car up or just lift it on one side to get to the bolt and lower it and let it drain.

The dealer quoted me $707 for this. I spent less than $100 in parts and oil...

  • 1 month later...
Posted
Far be it for me to question Loren. :soapbox: But I'm doing my 5k mile oil change this month and will be using 5W-40.

You'll have to scroll down this link to get to the key parts. And read a lot on the LN Engineering research from Charles Navarro. Including the question "Why consider diesel oil in a gas engine?"

I must admit that the article from LN Engineering went right over my head. Here in Europe, Porsche dealers use Mobile 1 5W-50 Rally Formula (w/Supersyn Antiwear) on our Boxsters. I have not seen much mention of this oil. I know, from this and other articles, that higher numbers does not make it a better fit. How is this oil regarded among the experts?

A.

  • Admin
Posted
Far be it for me to question Loren. :soapbox: But I'm doing my 5k mile oil change this month and will be using 5W-40.

You'll have to scroll down this link to get to the key parts. And read a lot on the LN Engineering research from Charles Navarro. Including the question "Why consider diesel oil in a gas engine?"

I must admit that the article from LN Engineering went right over my head. Here in Europe, Porsche dealers use Mobile 1 5W-50 Rally Formula (w/Supersyn Antiwear) on our Boxsters. I have not seen much mention of this oil. I know, from this and other articles, that higher numbers does not make it a better fit. How is this oil regarded among the experts?

A.

Mobil 1 5W-50 is a Porsche approved oil.

You can check the "Approved Oils" TSB in the Current TSBs section.

Posted
Thanks Maurice :)

I am getting ready to do my 75K maintenance tomorrow. Changing air filter, cabin filter, and oil. Last time I had the car up on jacks but I may try to get the oil change without lifting the car up or just lift it on one side to get to the bolt and lower it and let it drain.

The dealer quoted me $707 for this. I spent less than $100 in parts and oil...

azzar0:

:clapping: :clapping: :clapping:

Take the $600 you saved and take the GF/wife out for a nice dinner.

After that, buy yourself some goodies for the Boxster with what's left over!

Regards, Maurice.

Posted

Awesome thread,

Azzar0,

Congtrats on doing the 60k service yourself. That is very cool. I have done almost all the work on my car as well. (except where I needed a lift..I like you do not like being enderneath the car on jacks.) I took my rear bumper off yesterday just to see how it comes off lol!

I was able to clean everything and polish up my pretty stainless Fabspeed mufflers (I swear the car is faster with shiny mufflers :D .)

If anyone in the L.A. area has a DIY planned and would like some help I would be glad to offer my assistance. I would really like to do a clutch job with someone and see that process.

Congrats on your success and that money you saved is sweet indeed!! :clapping:

:cheers:

  • 5 weeks later...
Posted
Awesome thread,

Azzar0,

Congtrats on doing the 60k service yourself. That is very cool. I have done almost all the work on my car as well. (except where I needed a lift..I like you do not like being enderneath the car on jacks.) I took my rear bumper off yesterday just to see how it comes off lol!

I was able to clean everything and polish up my pretty stainless Fabspeed mufflers (I swear the car is faster with shiny mufflers :D .)

If anyone in the L.A. area has a DIY planned and would like some help I would be glad to offer my assistance. I would really like to do a clutch job with someone and see that process.

Congrats on your success and that money you saved is sweet indeed!! :clapping:

:cheers:

Hi Phillipj,

How did you remove the rear bumper? Do you have a link for a DYI? Just curious, much like you I'd probably do it just for the heck of it :)

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