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HELP! Roof latch hitting windstop!

ashleyisagirlsname
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ashleyisagirlsname Member

ashleyisagirlsname

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey guys

I removed my entire roof (frame and all) for the weekend while I hand sewed in a new window in my 2000 S. With Junninc's $100 window kit, a dozen broken needles and over 10 hours of labor, I finally replaced the cracked and faded rear window. With my roof now reinstalled, the top latch is catching on the windstop. I've tried adjusting the 8mm bolt which attaches the hydrolic pushrods to the roof but it still catches. I know I reinstalled it in the same place, b/c you could see where the washer had been seated for the past 8 years. Even after adjusting the 8mm bolt to both extremes (forward and backwards) it still catches.

Any recommendations? Anybody.....Bueller........Bueller?

Edited by ashleyisagirlsname
1schoir Member

1schoir

Posted
Posted (edited)
Hey guys

I removed my entire roof (frame and all) for the weekend while I hand sewed in a new window in my 2000 S. With Junninc's $100 window kit, a dozen broken needles and over 10 hours of labor, I finally replaced the cracked and faded rear window. With my roof now reinstalled, the top latch is catching on the windstop. I've tried adjusting the 8mm bolt which attaches the hydrolic pushrods to the roof but it still catches. I know I reinstalled it in the same place, b/c you could see where the washer had been seated for the past 8 years. Even after adjusting the 8mm bolt to both extremes (forward and backwards) it still catches.

Any recommendations? Anybody.....Bueller........Bueller?

ashleyisagirlsname:

"The 8mm bolt which attaches the hydraulic pushrods to the roof..."

The (black, cylindrical) hydraulic pushrods don't have the type of adjustment you are referring to, so I'm a little confused as to what you are talking about there.

Are you referring to the 10mm bolt with thick washer that fastens the two parts of the (flat, solid metal) pushrods together. Those pushrods (which terminate in a white [or red if it's an early Boxster and still has its original) plastic cup, which then presses on to a steel ball under the base of the B-Pillar are the correct ones that will usually allow you to solve the problem you are describing.

It's a little tricky because lenghthening or shortening the overall length of the latter pushrods does not operate in a strictly linear fashion for some reason. You have to make adjustments in very small increments to find the cure for clearing the rollbar's windstop. The finest adjustment are made by screwing in (or out) the white plastic cup itself by one turn in either direction at a time. (This assumes that you have not moved the entire convertible top frame forward or backward during your installation process of the canvas).

Adjusting these pushrods will also have an effect on how the two prongs on the front edge of the convertible top line up with the two receptacles on the top horizontal surface of the windshield frame, so you have to be patient.

Let us know if you have made any progress.

Regards, Maurice.

Edited by 1schoir
mikes_box Member

mikes_box

Posted
Posted

hope i can help as i just had the same problem and was a similar situation... I removed and replaced my whole convertible top because a piece broke off and it needed the whole frame to be replaced so i removed the frame and put a used one in and had the same problem.... what you'll need to do, which is what i did was to unloosen, not remove the screws on each side of the frame and pull the frame back towards the back (trunk) and then have someone tighten the bolts and repeat on the other side.... you'll be amazed at how much it'll move... it solved my problem...hope this helps...

ashleyisagirlsname Member

ashleyisagirlsname

Posted
  • Author
Posted

mikes box = genius!

Thanks a million, your suggestion of pulling the whole frame back worked like a charm! I appreciate you taking the time to write an answer, I thought I was hooped for a while!

  • 2 weeks later...
honda_nos Member

honda_nos

Posted
Posted

The whole top adjustment thing is a PITA. I've been adjusting that rod with the 10mm bolt on and off for months. The whole non-linear things makes it frustration. Now I have it very close to the strikers mating so I am leaving it alone for now.

mikes box = genius!

Thanks a million, your suggestion of pulling the whole frame back worked like a charm! I appreciate you taking the time to write an answer, I thought I was hooped for a while!

kostasclk Member

kostasclk

Posted
Posted
mikes box = genius!

Thanks a million, your suggestion of pulling the whole frame back worked like a charm! I appreciate you taking the time to write an answer, I thought I was hooped for a while!

Can you please describe how you did this in more detail? I 've been trying to fix that annoying problem for ages. I thought I had a bent frame but that apparently is not the case. Greetings from sunny Athens Greece!

kostasclk Member

kostasclk

Posted
Posted

Never mind I got it finally. I loosened the screws and tried to move the frame but all it moved was not more than half a mm. It seems there is not much clearance. I don't see how you folks managed to move it enough. What do I do wrong? Any help would be much appreciated.

  • 10 years later...
dustzen Member

dustzen

Posted
Posted

Hi,

I know this is a 10 years old post, But I'm having this problem right now.

 

Could someone please post a picture of which bolt I need to loosen and pull the top back ?

 

Thank you.

1schoir Member

1schoir

Posted
Posted (edited)

There are three (13mm, IIRC) bolts on each side of the convertible top frame base that must be loosened before you can pull the top back.

 

You must really apply a lot of pressure pulling back the frame after the bolts are loosened and don't expect a lot of movement, usually just a few millimeters but that is enough to have a magnified effect at the latch by the time it "crosses over" the windscreen.

 

First loosen all six bolts, then work on one side by pulling back on the base frame and simultaneously tightening one of the three bolts on that side (preferably with a buddy doing the pulling and you doing the tightening).  Then do the same on the other side.  Finally tighten the remaining two bolts on each side.

 

Note that some Boxsters came with additional Phillips head screws installed to locate the base frame properly, and those, if any, must be removed as well.

 

Here are two photos of the bolts (and screws, if any) and their location.  These two photos are of the left (driver's) side of the base frame.  The relevant bolts are circled in red, and blue arrows are pointing to the Phillips screws.  The second photo additionally shows the lower of the three bolts (not circled) and part of the rearmost bolt of the three.  Same (mirror image) set up on the right side.

 

Regards, Maurice.

First Two Bolts & Phillips Screw.jpg

Third Big Bolt & Second Phillips Screw.JPG

Edited by 1schoir

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