Flushing the brake fluid

[The Hoth]

Hi all,

My brake fluid is long overdue for a flushing.

I have seen different type of fluid......blue and gold .......etc.

I don't track my 996 and I hibernate it every year for a good 5 or 6 months. I live in the Northeast the winter is cold here. Any recommedation of what kind of fluid is good for my 996?

I flushed other cars with the two men method. One was pumping the brake pedal and the other was handling the bleeding. It worked fine. I am sure it works on many other cars. Is P-car different than other cars in this aspect that I really need a power bleeder to do this?

I am a little confused with the clutch fluid flushing.......do the brakes and the clutch use the same brake fluid in the same reservoir? I saw the diagram in the DIY section and it looks like that.

:)

[Loren]

The power bleeder sure is a handy way to bleed the brakes but can be don't with two people. I do not recommend bleeding the clutch (which is in the same circuit) without a power bleeder though.

[The Hoth]

The power bleeder sure is a handy way to bleed the brakes but can be don't with two people. I do not recommend bleeding the clutch (which is in the same circuit) without a power bleeder though.

Thanks! BTW, I know everyone recommends ATE brake fluid. Would it do any harm to the brake system, if I just pick up one of those DOT 4 brake fluid(any brand) from an auto parts store?

I hate to pay ten bucks shipping for 25 dollars worth of brake fluid(2 liters) and I have to wait for it.

The dealer is selling a liter of brake fluid for $39.11 plus tax. This is insane!

Edited April 18, 2008 by The Hoth

[Loren]

It is certainly your call. I would buy the best you can afford.

But, some facts about the ATE Typ200...

ATE TYP 200 Brake Fluid (DOT 4) has a dry boiling point of 536F and a wet boiling point of 396F.

ATE TYP 200 is compatible and will mix with MOST DOT3, DOT4, or DOT 5.1 Fluids.

ATE TYP 200 Brake Fluid lies 20 °C over the DOT 5.1 standard and surpasses this standard in nearly all the other requirements as well.

[The Hoth]

It is certainly your call. I would buy the best you can afford.

But, some facts about the ATE Typ200...

ATE TYP 200 Brake Fluid (DOT 4) has a dry boiling point of 536F and a wet boiling point of 396F.

ATE TYP 200 is compatible and will mix with MOST DOT3, DOT4, or DOT 5.1 Fluids.

ATE TYP 200 Brake Fluid lies 20 °C over the DOT 5.1 standard and surpasses this standard in nearly all the other requirements as well.

As long as if I use other brand and it won't damage anything, that would work for me.

I have a few bottles of Motul racing 600 in my garage with dry boiling porint 593F and wet boiling point of 420F. I think it will work then.

The problem of me is I hate ordering online, pay extra and wait.........

[Loren]

If you use the Motul RBF-600 be sure and do a complete flush (including the ABS). Motul RBF-600 is a 100% Synthetic brake fluid and should not be mixed with conventional brake fluids.

[The Hoth]

If you use the Motul RBF-600 be sure and do a complete flush (including the ABS). Motul RBF-600 is a 100% Synthetic brake fluid and should not be mixed with conventional brake fluids.

Thanks Loren.

I think I read something about flushing the ABS system, it is kind of complicated(to me). I'd stick to conventional brake fluid then.

I will go check what our local autozone has in stock.....hopefully they have something decent. If not, I may have to to get some ATE super blue or Type 200 then.

Edited April 18, 2008 by The Hoth

[Tool Pants]

Here is some info on what Porsche sells and the ATE stuff. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...;hl=brake+fluid

For a normal street car any DOT 4 fluid will be fine. At our work on cars days we put in whatever DOT 4 the owner brings. I use Castrol on my car simply because I have a bunch of it leftover from other cars I have owned. And we are all still alive.

Don't worry about the ABS unit. It contains a small amount of fluid. You do not need to do anything with it unless the unit is being replaced, and that is not what you are going to do.

There is nothing wrong bleeding the old fashioned way with 2 people. We have done this at a work on cars day and it is actually faster than using a power bleeder such as a Motive. With a Motive you are limited to 20 psi and the fluid comes out slow compared to using your foot on the brake pedal and the fluid comes out of the nipple faster, even with the time needed for pumping the pedal.

[Q-Ship986]

If you use the Motul RBF-600 be sure and do a complete flush (including the ABS). Motul RBF-600 is a 100% Synthetic brake fluid and should not be mixed with conventional brake fluids.

Do you mean 100% synthetic, or 100% silicone? If it is DOT5 silicone, it is probably inadviseable to use it, period. I don't know anything about Motul RBF-600 fluid, I'm just wondering if this needs to be clarified. --Brian

Edited April 19, 2008 by Q-Ship986

[Q-Ship986]

If you use the Motul RBF-600 be sure and do a complete flush (including the ABS). Motul RBF-600 is a 100% Synthetic brake fluid and should not be mixed with conventional brake fluids.

Do you mean 100% synthetic, or 100% silicone? If it is DOT5 silicone, it is probably inadviseable to use it, period. I don't know anything about Motul RBF-600 fluid, I'm just wondering if this needs to be clarified. --Brian

Nevermind. I see that this Motul fluid is a DOT4, non-silicone. --Brian

[The Hoth]

If you use the Motul RBF-600 be sure and do a complete flush (including the ABS). Motul RBF-600 is a 100% Synthetic brake fluid and should not be mixed with conventional brake fluids.

I went to see some brake fluid in autozone Dot 3/4 synthetic. It is awefully cheap. I was like, it couldn't be synthetic.

In addition, I saw some discussions, saying all brake fluids are synthetic. There is no such thing as conventional brake fluid. Although there is silcone based and not silcone based though.

Now I am completely confused...... :huh:

Edited April 21, 2008 by The Hoth

[Loren]

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DOT_4

[The Hoth]

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DOT_4

Thanks Loren.

My friend and I finally did it. We didn't use the power bleeder, so it was a two men job. I found some Dot 4 brake fluids at a local Vdub dealership $7.50 per 500ml bottle. Instead of $40 a liter from our local Porsche dealership.

As soon as we started using a syringe to suck out the brake fluid, we realized the fluid actually looked pretty clear. We actually removed the plastic trim around the reservior to have a better view of the fluid level.

We continued the process, figuring out when we actually drained it out of the calipers, the fluid may be darker.

We were not entirely right about that. The fluid we drained out look a little milky (not as clear as the fluid in the reservoir).

I guess when we bought the car a year ago, the dealer properly flush the brake fluid as one of the things they do for pre-owned certification. Cus there is no way a 2003 996 with 20k would have brake fluid looks so new. Unless this particular brake fluid won't darken no matter how long it's been in the car.

The Dot 4 I got from Vdub dealership is yellow. Just like the original brake fluid. I swear, they may be the same stuff.

BTW, the fluid is really potent. I think we spill just a little to near the drain nut. The nut is not sliver instead of black. I have some black touch up paint for my other car. I think I am going to touch it up. It won't be a permanent fix, but it will do for now.

:D

We went through the checklist for the minor service. The only thing we did not do is reading the code (cus we did not have the tool).

My friend has a lift in his garage. Believe, everything was so much easlier with the lift.

I just saved myself a few hundreds dollars and I've learned a great deal of my car.

Thanks for the help from everyone here!

Loren's intructions was very helpful. I printed it out, studied it before we actually worked on the car.

Mission accomplished.

Edited April 22, 2008 by The Hoth