Door rattle problem

[itzbob46]

Last year I researched this problem but it's still there.

I have a persistant rattle at the top of the driver's door just where it meets the car body at the rear end of the door. It sounds like it's around 6" above the latch. Last year I removed the door panel and checked everything that could possibly be seen in that area and found nothing. I taped down any wire or cable that could possible move. I did find a loose speaker box and tightened that up eliminating a vibration caused by bass, but that has nothing to do with my rattle. If I unlatch and hold the door while driving on a bumpy road the rattle stops (not a good sloution!!). But I am suspicious of the latch mechanism. Door does feel nice and tight when closed.

Next I'm going to place some foam products between the door and body in various places to see if some excessive mechanical motion has something to do with it.

Any ideas? This thing is pretty annoying since it's within a foot of my ear.

Thanks, Bob

[4agdtym]

I've had the same problem, searched using the same methods. I did find a post somehwere suggesting that the rattle is related to the lock mechanism. The poster suggested that the silver loop bolted to the body, which the latch grabs ahold of, wears and allows the rattle we hear. The poster suggested that the loop be removed, rotated 180 degrees and reinstalled. I haven't yet gotten the star tool to remove the bolts to do this. The rattle in my car has gotten somewhat worse over the past year, which seems to confirm the theory. If you try the suggested fix, let us know...

[Loren]

I've had the same problem, searched using the same methods. I did find a post somehwere suggesting that the rattle is related to the lock mechanism. The poster suggested that the silver loop bolted to the body, which the latch grabs ahold of, wears and allows the rattle we hear. The poster suggested that the loop be removed, rotated 180 degrees and reinstalled. I haven't yet gotten the star tool to remove the bolts to do this. The rattle in my car has gotten somewhat worse over the past year, which seems to confirm the theory. If you try the suggested fix, let us know...

Did you have a look at the TSBs? There are couple related to door rattles.

[ziiz996]

I've had the same problem, searched using the same methods. I did find a post somehwere suggesting that the rattle is related to the lock mechanism. The poster suggested that the silver loop bolted to the body, which the latch grabs ahold of, wears and allows the rattle we hear. The poster suggested that the loop be removed, rotated 180 degrees and reinstalled. I haven't yet gotten the star tool to remove the bolts to do this. The rattle in my car has gotten somewhat worse over the past year, which seems to confirm the theory. If you try the suggested fix, let us know...

Did you have a look at the TSBs? There are couple related to door rattles.

What is a TSB Loren?

[1schoir]

TSB = Technical Service Bulletin.

Available to contributing members.

Regards, Maurice.

[4agdtym]

Did you have a look at the TSBs? There are couple related to door rattles.

Loren,

Yes I did review TSBs. I tried the silicone spray. No results. I may not have properly done the other suggestions, but sure tried. Another place even suggested that it was a tensioning cable in the top that rattled when the top is down. Did the fix suggested by that source, too, with no results. I sort of gave up until I get around to trying the silver loop rotation.

Thanks,

David

[Loren]

Have you checked your door striker latch to make sure it is not mis-aligned and moving the door position when closing?

[4agdtym]

Have you checked your door striker latch to make sure it is not mis-aligned and moving the door position when closing?

Not specifically. The door seems to open and close easily and smoothly. Is there some technique to check the alignment?

Since it didn't occur with the passenger door, and it gets used so much less often, I found it easy to believe that the rattle was connected to the latch system and that it was wearing more over time, thus the increased frequency in the driver door.

[Loren]

Look at the door striker and see if it has any unusual wear compared to the other side.

[itzbob46]

Suspecting that the latch/striker parts were the culprit, I examined them carefully. There is no significant wear that would be improved by reversing the chromed loop part. But for the heck of it, I tried wrapping a few turns of electrical tape around the part of the loop that is contacting the strike on the door. Down the bumpy road I went in perfect silence!!! That is a temporary cure, and of course the tape cannot last long. After several miles of bumpy driving, I returned home and examined the tape and found that it is most compressed at the inside of the loop where the door latch holds it.

I have a feeling that if I raise the loop slightly and move it inwards slightly, the door will rest more solidly on the ramp of the door strike and the door will be held tighter to the moldings. I'm betting that this will be a permanent cure.........now all I need is one of those little 12 point (torx-like) drivers to fit the loop thing.

Anyone know where to find one???

Bob

[Loren]

I have this same set shown here...

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...ost&p=81630

You eBay or Google for "VIM Tools 8 Piece XZN Triple Square Metric 3/8" Drive"

[itzbob46]

I have this same set shown here...

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...ost&p=81630

You eBay or Google for "VIM Tools 8 Piece XZN Triple Square Metric 3/8" Drive"

Loren......

Can you tell me if those drivers are measured from point to point (largest diameter). I'd rather not buy a set, and singles can be purchased. But I need to be able to measure the chrome loop's fasteners and correspond this to the proper size needed. Unless you can tell me which size is used on the 986's chrome loop.

Also, thanks for the info above....all I needed was the proper name for the things and they were easy to find.

Bob

[Loren]

XZN108

which I believe is 8 mm.

[Q-Ship986]

I had this exact same rattle; I applied some Krytox to the chrome loop (is it the latch, striker, or ??) and it has taken care of it for the time being. Bob, please let us know how you move the loop...up, down, in? Thanks, --Brian

[itzbob46]

I had this exact same rattle; I applied some Krytox to the chrome loop (is it the latch, striker, or ??) and it has taken care of it for the time being. Bob, please let us know how you move the loop...up, down, in? Thanks, --Brian

Will do, Brian....

So far the electrical tape wound around it works very well. Still waiting for shipping on the tool needed to move the chrome thing.

What's Krytox?

Bob

[Q-Ship986]

What's Krytox?

It is a lubricant made by DuPont that comes in numerous forms, including many different greases. See here. I bought a tube of GPL-223, which has some corrosion inhibitor(s), from these guys. I bought it specifically to use it on the rubber seals of my Boxster's top and cover/lid, as Porsche suggests. But I also use it in situations such as this one. --Brian

[itzbob46]

Well, months have gone by waiting for Sears to deliver the triple square 8mm tool, and finally they gave up on their vendor and refunded me.

I then found a genuine Chinese 4 pc 12 point triple square set by Performance Tool, and waited to receive that.

But, the darn think still does not rattle with the little winding of electrical tape on the chrome latch loop!!! If I can replace a little piece of tape a few times per year to fix an annoying rattle, then I'm happy enough. I won't bother trying to adjust it as long as this quick fix works so well.

Bob

[secretagent214]

I replaced my chrome loops a couple of months ago after messing with the electrical tape fix for a while. I found the loops themselves at this site. http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/ind...amp;catalogid=2 The new loops are better and more quiet than the old ones without tape, but they are not as quiet as with the electrical tape. I guess maybe the latch mechanism is probably a bit worn as well...

It seems like there are a number of things that rattle on my door. They all are improved with the electrical tape or the new loops, which I'm sure has to do with minimizing the play of the door which makes everything rattle less. So far, I found a loose screw on the speaker box inside the door. It took about 30 seconds to fix it, but took about an hour to find. It also seems that my window glass rattles when I shut the door, especially when rolled down. I've heard a worn out regulator will cause that. And of course, there is that slight bit of play still left in the door striker. Everything seems to be improved in the cold weather of winter.

BTW, I found that triple square tool at the Autozone near my house. I had to buy a small set, which was about 20 dollars I think, but I was happy to not have to order it.

[itzbob46]

Thanks for that info re buying the chrome loops. Sadly the tape think is not permanent, but it is easily replaced and cost nothing. From what secretagent214 says it's does not sound like loop adjustment was successful. I'll try it is desperate, but fornow I'll stick with the electrical tape trick.

ps Talk about QC problems....I found a screw or 2 loose on the speaker box as well. Once tightened, I really doubt they could loosen by themseves. And in the past I've read others say that they found this problem too.

[CJ_Boxster]

The last time I fixed a customers door rattle it turned out to be the micro switch for the outside door latch had uncliped itself from the interior of the outside door latch and was very hard to tell it was hanging at first but turns out that was the source of the rattle.

[zebswiss]

Suspecting that the latch/striker parts were the culprit, I examined them carefully. There is no significant wear that would be improved by reversing the chromed loop part. But for the heck of it, I tried wrapping a few turns of electrical tape around the part of the loop that is contacting the strike on the door. Down the bumpy road I went in perfect silence!!! That is a temporary cure, and of course the tape cannot last long. After several miles of bumpy driving, I returned home and examined the tape and found that it is most compressed at the inside of the loop where the door latch holds it.

I have a feeling that if I raise the loop slightly and move it inwards slightly, the door will rest more solidly on the ramp of the door strike and the door will be held tighter to the moldings. I'm betting that this will be a permanent cure.........now all I need is one of those little 12 point (torx-like) drivers to fit the loop thing.

Anyone know where to find one???

Bob

For many years I thought a Torx head bolt only took a torx driver... You can actually use a regular Hex head bit or driver(just find the one that fits snug). Even on those door latch bolts, a regular hex head works fine.

Hope this helps. Zebswiss

2000 986 5-speed

Headers

K&N

1.25" Wheel spacers rear

1" Wheel spacers front

1" muffler bypass pipes coming soon

Location: NW Arkansas

[cayvman]

I have a rattle in my passenger side door that sounds like it's coming from the window hitting up against the top (when the top is up) and rattles in the door when the window is down. There seems to be some play in the track (window regulator) as compared to the driver's side (recently replaced the regulator). I can wiggle the window a bit when the window is up.

Has anybody heard or experienced the tracks in the regulator (I believe they are plastic holders/clamps) wearing out and allowing for slop/play in the tracking or clamping of the window, thus allowing the window to rattle about?

Do I need to bite the bullet and replace the window regulator or is there a cheaper fix?

Thanks,

Joe

Edited January 5, 2009 by cayvman

[1schoir]

I have a rattle in my passenger side door that sounds like it's coming from the window hitting up against the top (when the top is up) and rattles in the door when the window is down. There seems to be some play in the track (window regulator) as compared to the driver's side (recently replaced the regulator). I can wiggle the window a bit when the window is up.

Has anybody heard or experienced the tracks in the regulator (I believe they are plastic holders/clamps) wearing out and allowing for slop/play in the tracking or clamping of the window, thus allowing the window to rattle about?

Do I need to bite the bullet and replace the window regulator or is there a cheaper fix?

Thanks,

Joe

Joe:

You may not have to bite the proverbial bullet. It may be as simple as tightening either the bolts at the base of either (or both) of the legs of the window regulator (which you can do without removing the door panel), or tightening the clamps that hold the window glass to the regulator frame.

In the latter instance, you will have to remove the door panel.

A third, more remote possibility, is that one of the two bolts (one near the front, one near the rear) on the inside metal skin of the door that fastens the top of each leg of the regulator to the door may have come loose. That possibility would also require removal of the door panel.

Before you remove the door panel, do a search on here for a thread where I posted photos on how and where to access the bolts at the base of the legs of the regulator. If I find it first, I will post a link to it.

Regards, Maurice.

[cayvman]

Maurice,

Will try third possibility. Had panel off and checked recommendations 1 and 2.

Thanks,

Joe