99 boxster soft top will not close

[PhilP]

Hi all,

We're finally expecting some spring weather in Chi town. I just took the hardtop off today and put it away and getting ready for the nice sunny days ahead. I tried to close the softtop and when I press the rocker switch, nothing happens. The handbrake is pulled up and the idiot light on the dashboard is on. The car is running so I don't drain the battery while operating the top. I also checked the fuse (location d3 in the box) and that's okay.

In reading some of the posts, I understand that there are a number of microswitches used to allow the top to be closed or open. Anybody have any ideas where they're located and how I can check? What's the most likely switch that I need to check?

Any help is appreciated. I dont want to take it to the dealer since it might be just a switch?

[1schoir]

Hi all,

We're finally expecting some spring weather in Chi town. I just took the hardtop off today and put it away and getting ready for the nice sunny days ahead. I tried to close the softtop and when I press the rocker switch, nothing happens. The handbrake is pulled up and the idiot light on the dashboard is on. The car is running so I don't drain the battery while operating the top. I also checked the fuse (location d3 in the box) and that's okay.

In reading some of the posts, I understand that there are a number of microswitches used to allow the top to be closed or open. Anybody have any ideas where they're located and how I can check? What's the most likely switch that I need to check?

Any help is appreciated. I dont want to take it to the dealer since it might be just a switch?

Phil:

First, also check fuse B6 in that same kick panel fuse/relay carrier.

The other microswitches that affect the operation of the top (for a MY99) are:

B-pillar microswitch, located just below the B-pillar over the driver's left shoulder, behing a long, semi-circular carpet-covered plastic panel;

Clamshell microswitch located on top of the electric motor just forward of the third brake light;

Roof Latch microswitch (there are actually two switches located there), located inside the receptacle in the middle of the top windshield frame.

First, I would verify that both windows simultaneously drop about 4" when you first pull the latch down (with the parking brake pulled up and the idiot light on).

If that doesn't happen, you may have a problem with one of those two microswitches. Poke your finger into where the latch goes into the receptacle while you keep the top switch depressed, and see if you get a reaction.

I would also take out the double relay (in that same relay carrier in the driver's kick panel) and tap it on a flat, hard surface a couple of times, then install it and pull it off a couple of times (removes light corrosion on the terminals) and see if that solves your problem. The double relay is the only double relay in the relay carrier, and it is located in the third row from the bottom (bottom row has no relays), second from the right.

Try the above and report back.

Regards, Maurice.

Edited April 14, 2008 by 1schoir

[ronbonner]

There are a series of simple voltage tests you can do if you have a volt meter. All is explained in the troubleshooting guide attached to the post below

Check out http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=18477 which covers the same issues you have (and I had once upon a time)

RB

[PhilP]

Thank you all for the response. I appreciate that. This car is actually my wife's. She's too excited to use it today and could not wait for me to fix it. So she brought it to the dealer this morning. I get a call from the dealer this afternoon. They said it's the microswitch in the latch on the windshield. It needs to be replaced. They said $500 for part and labor. I was shocked. What a rip... Needless to say, I'm going to do it myself. Now, they're charging me $135 for diagnosis. What a rip too. The car had the extended warranty that just ended last year.

I do have some questions for you all. Is the microswitch a dealer item only? If not, any recommendation on where to get? Pelican Parts?

How do you remove the part that houses the microswitch? Does anyone have a diagram or picture somewhere that you can provide a link?

I'm picking the car up tonight. I'll just have to put the hardtop back on until I get the part and figure out how to replace. Any insights you can share will be much appreciated.

[Cassiebox]

call sunset or suncoast for the part # - they sell at cost plus x% (usually 15-20% - not a triple digit % like your local dealer might/will). Sometimes the microswitch can be repaired by soldering the contacts again or just a good cleaning so try that route first.

Anyhow, to remove the piece, use a fingernail and gently pry out the 2 black shiny eyes. Then loosen the T-30 torx screws in each eye. It'll pop right out then. There are 3 plugs behind it - light, microswitch and motion sensor.

HINT - do not over tighten the screws when reinstalling. The retaining nuts split easily. To see what's all entailed to replace the nuts (without having the windshield removed :(), take a look at this write up I did (Mike Focke has been kind enough to host it - copy also attached). It also explains how how to pull down the housing on pg2. Again - use it as a reminder to not over tighten the screws when you put them back in ;)

Repairing the Broken Retainer Nuts in Windshield Header - Hosted by Mike Focke

Nutsert_Install.pdf

[PhilP]

call sunset or suncoast for the part # - they sell at cost plus x% (usually 15-20% - not a triple digit % like your local dealer might/will). Sometimes the microswitch can be repaired by soldering the contacts again or just a good cleaning so try that route first.

Anyhow, to remove the piece, use a fingernail and gently pry out the 2 black shiny eyes. Then loosen the T-30 torx screws in each eye. It'll pop right out then. There are 3 plugs behind it - light, microswitch and motion sensor.

HINT - do not over tighten the screws when reinstalling. The retaining nuts split easily. To see what's all entailed to replace the nuts (without having the windshield removed :(), take a look at this write up I did (Mike Focke has been kind enough to host it - copy also attached). It also explains how how to pull down the housing on pg2. Again - use it as a reminder to not over tighten the screws when you put them back in ;)

Repairing the Broken Retainer Nuts in Windshield Header - Hosted by Mike Focke

Got the car back last night. I played around with the latch microswitch by pushing in on the button. I thought I'd do this first before I open it up. And, wala, it started to work. It appears that the switch is just sticking, maybe from having the hard top on for several months throughout the winter. I sprayed the inside with an electronic cleaner. That seems to do the trick. It doesn't look like I'll have to replace the switch.

Thanks to all the help though. I saved this thread for future reference. I get the feeling that I will have to deal with this sooner or later.

[shawnjulie1]

:D :D :D

There are a series of simple voltage tests you can do if you have a volt meter. All is explained in the troubleshooting guide attached to the post below

Check out http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=18477 which covers the same issues you have (and I had once upon a time)

RB

THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU, I am a new member and the top would not go down (no power at the top switch on the dash) I followed the directions and chased it down to the E-Brake switch. I took it apart scratced some crap off the contacts and for some reason it's fixed. I am glad there are people out there who can still write technically so we can fix things. Thanks again.

Shawn

[savowood]

I'm having a similar issue, but my top won't go back up. When I press the switch on the dash, nothing happens. The windows don't drop and there's no indication the motor is getting any signal to raise the top. Yes, the hand brake is pulled up. I first tried with just one click, but when I got nothing I pulled it up all the way.

I just got done doing a short shifter installation on the car about two weeks ago. Did I possibly not properly reconnect something in there? Is there an easy way to reconnect it or am I going to have to remove the whole console again?

-Michael

[Cassiebox]

is the e-brake warning light coming on in the dash cluster? If not, you may have forgotten to reconnect the lead or the switch may be bad (or could just use a good cleaning. I'd start there

[RFM]

As mentioned, the park brake light is on? If yes check the fuses to be sure, but most frequently issue is the top latch switch.