Top help please!

[mikes_box]

Question... Got a problem with my top... 1) When you raise the top the convertible top (canvas) hits the back of the roll bars so I have ot guide them over it... What needs to be adjusted so it goes over the roll bars without hitting them 2) when the clam shell cycles end and the clamshell closes these is a big pop coming from the left side. This is actually the side where the red ball was replaces because it broke. Also tried stopping it before it would make the pop and saw that the right side was slighty up compared to the left side. What needs to be done to stop the popping and have teh convertible top go over the roll bars... Thanks for your help guys...

[1schoir]

Question... Got a problem with my top... 1) When you raise the top the convertible top (canvas) hits the back of the roll bars so I have ot guide them over it... What needs to be adjusted so it goes over the roll bars without hitting them 2) when the clam shell cycles end and the clamshell closes these is a big pop coming from the left side. This is actually the side where the red ball was replaces because it broke. Also tried stopping it before it would make the pop and saw that the right side was slighty up compared to the left side. What needs to be done to stop the popping and have teh convertible top go over the roll bars... Thanks for your help guys...

Mike:

Since yours is a MY97 (from your profile), you have the early, half-moon gear style transmissions (called Version A by Porsche). The "pop" that you hear coming from the left side (if it is coming from the left side) is the sound of the half-moon gear on that side going past its last (50th) tooth, and then being pulled back forcefully by the black hydraulic pushrod that operates the clamshell as the V-levers go through their rotation.

One way to stop the pop is to reset the position of the half-moon gear inside the transmission by spinning the drive cable on that side by means of an electric drill. In your case, since the other side appears to be operating correctly, you only have to make a very slight adjustment so that the top does not go out of synch between the left side and right side. If you think of a range of adjustment at that particular point in the convertible top's arc of operation, think of the right side as being on one extreme side of the acceptable adjustment which still keeps both sides in relative synchronization. Think of the left side as being at just past the other extreme side of the acceptable adjustment for still keeping the top in relative synchronization, but ALSO off by one tooth on the half moon gear.

So, if you rotate the V-lever on the left side by a little less than one tooth (which will just make the half-moon gear not go past that last tooth), you should be able to make the adjustment and still have the top synchronized. Synchronized in this instance means that the left and right sides go up and down equally and parallel to each other. You will be able to judge which way to spin the left drive cable by observing the direction of the V-lever as it spins just as it "pops" on the left side. Disconnecting the drive cable from the side of the electric motor is a simple matter of pulling up the "U-clip" that holds the drive cable housing into the side of the motor. Look at other threads here for photos if necessary. Since it's springtime, this would be a good time to verify that you have the requisite 3/4 of an inch of metal drive cable sticking out of the end of the cable housings.

The adjustment I described above may solve your other problem with the top hitting the roll-bar in and of itself.

If it does not, you can make a further adjustment that will help you clear the rollbar by adjusting the length of the connecting("push rods") rods (at their link, which is held together with a 10mm bolt and a thick washer) that drive the B-Pillar when they are moved through their arc by the V-Lever's rotation. These connecting rods are the ones that have the red (or white if replaced) plastic cups at one end.

One last comment. Since you imply that you replaced the red plastic cup when it broke, be sure to verify that the two connecting rods (left and right side) start out as equal in length as you can also vary the length of the connecting rod by screwing in (or out) the plastic cup on the threaded rod end of each connecting rod. That action results in a finer adjustment than the one done through the 10mm bolt by pulling the two parts of the connecting rod further together or apart.

These adjustments are somewhat inter-related as changing one may affect the other. Please note also that the length of the connecting rods will affect how the two tongues on the forward edge of the convertible top will mate up with the two receptacles in the top of the windshield frame.

Let us know what you work out, or if you have new symptoms.

Regards, Maurice.

Edited April 2, 2008 by 1schoir

[mikes_box]

Thanks Maurice....You the man.... I'll try your recommendations...

[mikes_box]

Hi Maurice, did as you suggested on the left side now the funny thing is that the right side is now making noise or a pop when the top goes back up about halfway. The pop is on the right but as soon as it pops it just keeps going. Don't know if its the transmission or something else getting stuck on the frame. I went ahead and lubed the tracks with white lithium grease but nothing except that its much smoother. Is there anything else that could possibly cause the popping. I've actually noticed that the canvas thingy on the right does not go inside the channel as it does on the left is that a possible cause of the popping. Just want to make sure because the last time i had popping on the left and didn't attempt to fix the frame broke off where the metal ball attaches and that cost me $$$ to fix. Thanks again for the help. Mike

[1schoir]

Hi Maurice, did as you suggested on the left side now the funny thing is that the right side is now making noise or a pop when the top goes back up about halfway. The pop is on the right but as soon as it pops it just keeps going. Don't know if its the transmission or something else getting stuck on the frame. I went ahead and lubed the tracks with white lithium grease but nothing except that its much smoother. Is there anything else that could possibly cause the popping. I've actually noticed that the canvas thingy on the right does not go inside the channel as it does on the left is that a possible cause of the popping. Just want to make sure because the last time i had popping on the left and didn't attempt to fix the frame broke off where the metal ball attaches and that cost me $$$ to fix. Thanks again for the help. Mike

Mike:

When a "pop" is caused by the half-moon gear in each transmission, it usually occurs at or near the very end of travel of the top, not halfway.

The new noise or pop that you describe could be caused by a number of things. Double check that the steel balls that are at the end of the clamshell supporting arms are actually completely pressed in to the square black plastic sliders that slide back and forth in their channels. Those plastic squares get worn out and the steel balls pop out sometimes.

Sometimes you could get a noise from the very base of the side of the canvas, where it is supposed to wrap around the lowest part of the clamping rail. That end of the canvas is supposed to have a 3 or 4 inch rectangular piece of leather or fibreboard sewn into it and that piece, along with the canvas end that it is sewn onto is held captive by the fastening of the clamping rail with the two screws that hold it in place (one on the underneath part of the B-pillar part of the frame, and one on top). If that piece comes loose, it could get jammed and cause a pop when it gets unjammed each time.

If that is what you are referring to as the "canvas thingy", take a look at the DIY on Mike Focke's Boxster Pages. I posted some photos and text on that specific area which should show you how to put it back together.

Here is the link: http://mike.focke.googlepages.com/replacingthetop-adiy

Take a look specifically at paragraphs 6 and 9.

You didn't mention if your top is still hitting the roll bar.

Keep us posted.

Regards, Maurice.

[Axle]

Mike,

Glad you fixed the switch.

I bought my switch through Automobile Atlantic for about $35, the dealership wanted $100.

It was interesting to hear the dealership was charging $500 for the fix, I feel even better about fixing it myself.

Axle