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Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi everybody,

I've been searching for hours without success...

Does anybody know ? Is it possible to upgrade the CDR23 becker radio with a AVIC or Kenwwood head unit, since I have a MOST bus in my 2005 C2 ?

Is ther an adapter or something like this ?

Maybe Scosche FAI-3A ?

Thanks a lot.

Posted
Hi everybody,

I've been searching for hours without success...

Does anybody know ? Is it possible to upgrade the CDR23 becker radio with a AVIC or Kenwwood head unit, since I have a MOST bus in my 2005 C2 ?

Is ther an adapter or something like this ?

Maybe Scosche FAI-3A ?

Thanks a lot.

I just finished installing a Kenwood DNX5120 in my 2004 C4s. I wasted so much time trying to use the Bose amp, and finally threw it away and rewired the system. I dont think the FAI-3A will work, because the amp is controlled through the fiber optic cable. I am very happy with the results so far, and the Garmin Nav system is great.

Posted

Thanks but, in a Bose system, are the speakers connected to the amp, or to the head unit ?

In other words, the optic bus goes only from the HU to the amp ? In that case, maybe I could shunt the amp, and just use the power of my new 2-din head unit ??

Posted
Thanks but, in a Bose system, are the speakers connected to the amp, or to the head unit ?

In other words, the optic bus goes only from the HU to the amp ? In that case, maybe I could shunt the amp, and just use the power of my new 2-din head unit ??

All speaker wires are on the amp, including the sub woofer. I don't think the optic bus goes only to the amp, because of the radio display in the instrument cluster. I now get 4 dashes in the display. I think if the radio is deleted from the system with a PST2, those dashes will go away. I used the power output from the Kenwood, 50 watts x 4 and it sounds much better than the cdr23. I also hooked the dash and door speakers in series for the front, because they checked out at 2 ohms each, so in series that would be 4 ohms, which is OK for the kenwood. There is no sense putting an amp in if you do not replace all the speakers.

Posted
Thanks but, in a Bose system, are the speakers connected to the amp, or to the head unit ?

In other words, the optic bus goes only from the HU to the amp ? In that case, maybe I could shunt the amp, and just use the power of my new 2-din head unit ??

All speaker wires are on the amp, including the sub woofer. I don't think the optic bus goes only to the amp, because of the radio display in the instrument cluster. I now get 4 dashes in the display. I think if the radio is deleted from the system with a PST2, those dashes will go away. I used the power output from the Kenwood, 50 watts x 4 and it sounds much better than the cdr23. I also hooked the dash and door speakers in series for the front, because they checked out at 2 ohms each, so in series that would be 4 ohms, which is OK for the kenwood. There is no sense putting an amp in if you do not replace all the speakers.

That means doing a new complete intall !

Isn't it possible to keep amp and speakers, convert 2 ohms to 4 ohms, and eliminate the optic bus by replacing by a "classic" connection ?

Even if the Kenwood is much better, it's one the other hand, a pity to send all the expensive Bose system to the bin...

Posted
Thanks but, in a Bose system, are the speakers connected to the amp, or to the head unit ?

In other words, the optic bus goes only from the HU to the amp ? In that case, maybe I could shunt the amp, and just use the power of my new 2-din head unit ??

All speaker wires are on the amp, including the sub woofer. I don't think the optic bus goes only to the amp, because of the radio display in the instrument cluster. I now get 4 dashes in the display. I think if the radio is deleted from the system with a PST2, those dashes will go away. I used the power output from the Kenwood, 50 watts x 4 and it sounds much better than the cdr23. I also hooked the dash and door speakers in series for the front, because they checked out at 2 ohms each, so in series that would be 4 ohms, which is OK for the kenwood. There is no sense putting an amp in if you do not replace all the speakers.

That means doing a new complete intall !

Isn't it possible to keep amp and speakers, convert 2 ohms to 4 ohms, and eliminate the optic bus by replacing by a "classic" connection ?

Even if the Kenwood is much better, it's one the other hand, a pity to send all the expensive Bose system to the bin...

I could not get the amp to work. All the stereo shops I talked to, said get rid of the amp. Its not feasable. By the way, I checked ebay to see if I could sell the cdr23, and the going price was like $20.00 Nobody wants them.

Posted
Thanks but, in a Bose system, are the speakers connected to the amp, or to the head unit ?

In other words, the optic bus goes only from the HU to the amp ? In that case, maybe I could shunt the amp, and just use the power of my new 2-din head unit ??

All speaker wires are on the amp, including the sub woofer. I don't think the optic bus goes only to the amp, because of the radio display in the instrument cluster. I now get 4 dashes in the display. I think if the radio is deleted from the system with a PST2, those dashes will go away. I used the power output from the Kenwood, 50 watts x 4 and it sounds much better than the cdr23. I also hooked the dash and door speakers in series for the front, because they checked out at 2 ohms each, so in series that would be 4 ohms, which is OK for the kenwood. There is no sense putting an amp in if you do not replace all the speakers.

That means doing a new complete intall !

Isn't it possible to keep amp and speakers, convert 2 ohms to 4 ohms, and eliminate the optic bus by replacing by a "classic" connection ?

Even if the Kenwood is much better, it's one the other hand, a pity to send all the expensive Bose system to the bin...

I could not get the amp to work. All the stereo shops I talked to, said get rid of the amp. Its not feasable. By the way, I checked ebay to see if I could sell the cdr23, and the going price was like $20.00 Nobody wants them.

jr 152,

It's nice to finally read a post where someone has accomplished removing the MOST + BOSE. I have called some high end car audio guys in town and no one has done this. A couple said they are nervous because on some other germans (MB) they have tried a conversion and it messed up the rest of the cars comp system.

Did you have any problems with the computer or car in general after your conversion? Do you have any pics? Forgive my green-ness but is the general procedure to replace head unit, run new hook-up to new amp and use exisiting speaker wires to connect to new amp (paying attention to ohms)? Is the head unit and amp power there or is it part of the fiber optic system?

Sorry for all the questions but I need to replace the becker and I've finally found someone that has done it!

Thanks!

Posted
Thanks but, in a Bose system, are the speakers connected to the amp, or to the head unit ?

In other words, the optic bus goes only from the HU to the amp ? In that case, maybe I could shunt the amp, and just use the power of my new 2-din head unit ??

All speaker wires are on the amp, including the sub woofer. I don't think the optic bus goes only to the amp, because of the radio display in the instrument cluster. I now get 4 dashes in the display. I think if the radio is deleted from the system with a PST2, those dashes will go away. I used the power output from the Kenwood, 50 watts x 4 and it sounds much better than the cdr23. I also hooked the dash and door speakers in series for the front, because they checked out at 2 ohms each, so in series that would be 4 ohms, which is OK for the kenwood. There is no sense putting an amp in if you do not replace all the speakers.

That means doing a new complete intall !

Isn't it possible to keep amp and speakers, convert 2 ohms to 4 ohms, and eliminate the optic bus by replacing by a "classic" connection ?

Even if the Kenwood is much better, it's one the other hand, a pity to send all the expensive Bose system to the bin...

I could not get the amp to work. All the stereo shops I talked to, said get rid of the amp. Its not feasable. By the way, I checked ebay to see if I could sell the cdr23, and the going price was like $20.00 Nobody wants them.

jr 152,

It's nice to finally read a post where someone has accomplished removing the MOST + BOSE. I have called some high end car audio guys in town and no one has done this. A couple said they are nervous because on some other germans (MB) they have tried a conversion and it messed up the rest of the cars comp system.

Did you have any problems with the computer or car in general after your conversion? Do you have any pics? Forgive my green-ness but is the general procedure to replace head unit, run new hook-up to new amp and use exisiting speaker wires to connect to new amp (paying attention to ohms)? Is the head unit and amp power there or is it part of the fiber optic system?

Sorry for all the questions but I need to replace the becker and I've finally found someone that has done it!

Thanks!

I had no problems with the cars computer at all. Everything is running as before, except the radio display in the instrument cluster, now has 4 dashes. I think if the radio is deleted from the computer, those dashes will go away, but I am just guessing. Maybe Loren can shed some light on that. I am attaching some pics of the Kenwood installation. I moved the A/C controls to the lower slot, Painted my console, A/C trim and Boxter shelf to speed yellow, did the garage opener and spoiler switch mod to the dash, and installed a Boyo rear view camera to the Kenwood. I am a little bit disappointed with the Boyo Camera, as the picture looks washed out on a bright day, and colors are faded. I will call Boyo and see if I can talk to tech support. I hate to replace it and have to run a new camera cable to the license plate again. I do not have a CD changer, and not interested in one, but I am sure it can be added.

post-28423-1206647989_thumb.jpg

post-28423-1206648060_thumb.jpg

post-28423-1206648093_thumb.jpg

Posted

jr_152,

I don't know a lot about Porsche, but you can personalize the display in the center cluster. This can be done with different settings of "ODB" (I'm french, and I don't know the english word...maybe "in board computer" ..?).

So you can choose to display other things and get rid of these four dashes...

Further, you've exactly done what I want to do :rolleyes: So, can you please tell what you've done with the Bose amp ?

Did you experience problems with the fact that Bose speakers are 2 ohms ?

Where is your rear camera ? How did you wire it ?

Thanks.

Posted
jr_152,

I don't know a lot about Porsche, but you can personalize the display in the center cluster. This can be done with different settings of "ODB" (I'm french, and I don't know the english word...maybe "in board computer" ..?).

So you can choose to display other things and get rid of these four dashes...

Further, you've exactly done what I want to do :rolleyes: So, can you please tell what you've done with the Bose amp ?

Did you experience problems with the fact that Bose speakers are 2 ohms ?

Where is your rear camera ? How did you wire it ?

Thanks.

I just ordered the Durametric OBD software, so I don't know if I will be able to do something in regards to the radio with the on board computer, to delete the 4 flashes. I did not use the Bose amp. I hooked up the door and dashboard speakers in series for the front. The rear speakers remained at 2 Ohms. I used the Boyo VTL300 backup camera, and it plugs directly into the kenwood.

  • Admin
Posted
jr_152,

I don't know a lot about Porsche, but you can personalize the display in the center cluster. This can be done with different settings of "ODB" (I'm french, and I don't know the english word...maybe "in board computer" ..?).

So you can choose to display other things and get rid of these four dashes...

Further, you've exactly done what I want to do :rolleyes: So, can you please tell what you've done with the Bose amp ?

Did you experience problems with the fact that Bose speakers are 2 ohms ?

Where is your rear camera ? How did you wire it ?

Thanks.

I just ordered the Durametric OBD software, so I don't know if I will be able to do something in regards to the radio with the on board computer, to delete the 4 flashes. I did not use the Bose amp. I hooked up the door and dashboard speakers in series for the front. The rear speakers remained at 2 Ohms. I used the Boyo VTL300 backup camera, and it plugs directly into the kenwood.

The Durametric software can not program MOST devices (like the radio, CD player, etc.). You will need to find someone with a PST2 or PIWIS tester to re-program those devices.

Posted
jr_152,

I don't know a lot about Porsche, but you can personalize the display in the center cluster. This can be done with different settings of "ODB" (I'm french, and I don't know the english word...maybe "in board computer" ..?).

So you can choose to display other things and get rid of these four dashes...

Further, you've exactly done what I want to do :rolleyes: So, can you please tell what you've done with the Bose amp ?

Did you experience problems with the fact that Bose speakers are 2 ohms ?

Where is your rear camera ? How did you wire it ?

Thanks.

I just ordered the Durametric OBD software, so I don't know if I will be able to do something in regards to the radio with the on board computer, to delete the 4 flashes. I did not use the Bose amp. I hooked up the door and dashboard speakers in series for the front. The rear speakers remained at 2 Ohms. I used the Boyo VTL300 backup camera, and it plugs directly into the kenwood.

The Durametric software can not program MOST devices (like the radio, CD player, etc.). You will need to find someone with a PST2 or PIWIS tester to re-program those devices.

Thanks Loren for the info. I will see if I find someone with a PST2 or PIWIS tester. Right now I am very happy with my setup, and those dashes really don't bother me till I find a tester.

Posted

In my C2 MY2005, I have ODB2 (code 660) and I can configure what I want the central cluster to display....

I don't understand why this could not be anymore when you disconnect the MOST....

About your install , I sum up :

- You have given up the Bose amp, and, ALL the speaker wires that were connected to the amp are now connected directly to the Kenwood unit.

- all your speakers are now in use with the Kenwood HU, even rear speakers and subwoofer, correct ?

- you have put dash and door speakers together so that you get 4 ohms (who did you do that ? just connected them together in the same Kemwood output?

- what about rear speakers and subwoofer ? I reckon they are 2 ohms, too....?

- And were did you hide the cable for the rear camera ? Where is this camera located in your car ?

I would greatly appreciate yous answers. Thanks a lot for that !!!!

Posted

Hi there,

I would very much like to know, what you did with the Sub. I think they are running even @ 1Ohm (I guess the two sub drivers are 2Ohm each, running parallel)!

I was looknig for an AMP running with 1Ohm, but only find Monoblocks with 1000W ;) Seems a little overdimensioned to me.

Do you run them @2Ohm?

Cheers, Thormann

Posted

After many searches on forums, the only think I am sure about, is that the speakers are 2 ohms.

The best would be to get technical information about the Bose amp....

Loren, maybe...?

Posted (edited)

I have measured the dc resistance with a multimeter. I know, this is not exact, but should come close! While the speakers in the dash, door and rear side gave about 2 Ohm, the 5.25" in the sub shelf gave 0.8 Ohm. I have measured from the harness connected to the Bose Amp. I think the two 5.25" speaker are in parallel 2 Ohm each.

After studying the Porsche part list, it seems the speakers of the analogue (2002) and MOST (2003-...) Bose Systems are the same, i.e. same impedance! Thus, it should be possible to use the 2002 Bose amp of the analogue system. Am I correct?

(In the part list are two amps for the Most system, one is called "additional amplifier"! Why this?)

Does anybody have

-wiring diagram of the Bose system

-inputs/outputs of the Bose Amp

-Technical spec.

for both the 2002 and MOST systems?

Thanks, Gert

Edited by thormann
Posted (edited)

Does nobody have any of these diagrams? That would be of great help! Meanwhile I found the input/output diagram of the Bose Most Amp. I need to know, how to connect the head unit to the non Most amp. By the way, is there only one amp or an additional for the subwoofer for the non Most systems? This is written in the Porsche spare parts list!

Thanks, Thormann

Edited by thormann
  • Admin
Posted
Does nobody have any of these diagrams? That would be of great help! Meanwhile I found the input/output diagram of the Bose Most Amp. I need to know, how to connect the head unit to the non Most amp. By the way, is there only one amp or an additional for the subwoofer for the non Most systems? This is written in the Porsche spare parts list!

Thanks, Thormann

Have you tried a search here? I have posted the BOSE diagram several times.

Posted

Yes, I searched a lot! As I wrote, I found the Most Bose Amp inputs/outputs here. But I could not find anything about the analogue one of MY 2002. Would be nice, if you could post it once more or give me a hint, where I can find it!

  • Admin
Posted
Yes, I searched a lot! As I wrote, I found the Most Bose Amp inputs/outputs here. But I could not find anything about the analogue one of MY 2002. Would be nice, if you could post it once more or give me a hint, where I can find it!

MY2002 BOSE

post-1-1207592979_thumb.png

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

I am dealing with the same issue following my purchase of the AVIC D3 and the install kit from another contributor on this board. Unfortunately the kit does not work with the MOST system. I have the AVIC installed, all the wires run, Sirius satellite tuner and bluetooth installed and NO SOUND. I recently bought a 2003 Boxster S and got to work right away ;-).

The difference from what I've read here is that I have the BE6600 AMP (6 x 40W), not the 680. I believe the sound system was the DSP upgrade, not the Bose system. I also installed the Porsche rear speaker upgrade kit so I have the door subs, dash two way speakers and dual rear speakers in place of the left and right storage compartments.

My main issue is figuring out how to take advantage of the work I've already done with the minimal amount of rework. As a prior poster noted, if there is a non-MOST Porsche Amp that I can just plug in I would buy it. I don't think that is the case as the harness to the rear of my CDR23 appears to be different than the standard harness installed with a non-MOST system. That leaves me with the probable job of replacing the factory amp with a standard amp.

Assuming I will likely need to replace the standard amp I will need the Pinouts for the BE6600 amp so I can determine which are the speaker wires, power, etc. I can run the pre-amp outputs from the AVIC pretty easily through the firewall to the new AMP.

Another diagram that would be useful would be the signals that are put into the factory harness to the CDR23. Some of these could be useful for wiring to features on the AVIC (like illumination, etc.). The pinouts on the CDR23 are available as posted by Loren but there may be signals in the factory harness that are available but not used from the CDR23 in cases where a different stereo is installed at the factory.

So, Does anyone have the following wiring info:

1. factory signal/pin list for the black and yellow radio connectors for a 2003 Boxster S with the MOST bus.

2. BE6600 signal/pin list.

Lastly, Does anyone know where to get a female connector and pins so I can do a connector to the existing amp harness rather than cutting it out? Always like to keep the option of going back to stock if ever needed.

Also, let me know if I'm missing something? I think I'm interpreting my best path forward correctly.

Thanks!!!!

Edited by rahlstrom
Posted (edited)
Have a look at this RennTech thread :

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...tch+replacement

A member installed a Becker Traffic Pro in his MOST bus equipped car. I would be very interested to see if you can get the nav system working as I have an MY03 Boxster configured like yours and would like to install a nav system.

Cheers,

Bill

Thanks, I sent the poster a message asking for the pin/colors for the speed/reverse signals on plug A. Also, rather than going with banana plugs for the amp/speaker connections I am going to try and find the matting connector with the male plugs (like on the amp) so I can create a harness.

Also, I found the phone/prep connector to get swicthed power easier than wiring from the ignition switch. Thanks again to Loren! Here's the link to that valuable piece of info: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=4822

Edited by rahlstrom

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