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Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Hey Everyone -

First let me just say that EuromotorSpeed and its founder trieullionaire are absolutely terrific! I endorse this company wholeheartedly! Even when the bezel came in broken, he replaced it immediately and was so helpful throughout the process.

Second I wanted to share some revelations that came up. I have an 04 C2 with the Bose Fiber Optic Sound System. The first place I took the car to boasted they knew what to do, and when they were about to cut the fiber optic cables, I took my keys back and ran. The second place I went to said all the speakers had to be replaced to make it work. The third and final along with trieullinaire helped me get it done. What I installed.

Kenwood DNX7140 w/ Garmin Nav

Euromotorspeed 996 kit

Sirius Satellite Radio Receiver run through Kenwood

Bluetooth

Ipod direct connect cable for Video

JL Audio 6 channel amp

In a nutshell. I bypassed the Bose Amp. Connected the 12 existing Bose Speakers to the JL Amp. Connected the Amp to the Kenwood. Ran the ipod connect cable to the GloveBox (also works with Iphone). Connected the Sirius Tuner, Bluetooth and used the Euromotorspeed Kit and whallah. I am in love!

The total install was $450 (including Amp Wires) so I think it was very reasonable.

I just wanted to say that it can be done and is well worth the end result. Here is a pic of my C2 and the inside.

post-54470-126919508266_thumb.jpg

post-54470-126919510201_thumb.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

trieullionaire I see that used to sell on ebay a kit that would work perfect for the AVIC D3, is that still available? I have a 1999 996 C2 and just purchased a AVIC D3 from a friend.

I would love to do this project myslef and I love the look you gave it.

Robert

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Thanks to everyone here and in other places for the information you have so kindly shared. With it I too was able to complete the migration from my grotty old PCM2 to a super after market unit.

The following is based on my migration on my 996 C2 Cabrio 2003 with PCM2.1 MOST.

I am not going to be a parrot and repeat what is already here but I just feel it is worth clarifying one thing that confused me for quite while simply because no one has yet confirmed the following information in regard to MOST installations:

You do not need an additional AMP. You can just bypass the existing Porsche supplied MOST amp and just wire directly to the speakers. Getting at the speaker wires is the trick here however. So yes, it is easier if one does replace the AMP but I just wanted to make it clear that you do not have to. Also, the speaker system runs on copper and not fibre as some seem to have thought. Maybe just on mine?

I will be stuffing my Becker BE 6600 and CDC4 on fleebay to try to offset the cost of my migration. Oh yes the PCM2 also as spares or repair coz it's not been feeling very well for a long time. :)

Posted

trieullionaire I see that used to sell on ebay a kit that would work perfect for the AVIC D3, is that still available? I have a 1999 996 C2 and just purchased a AVIC D3 from a friend.

I would love to do this project myslef and I love the look you gave it.

Robert

Hi Robert,

Yes, the kit works for an AVIC D3. In fact, our kit works for the majority of head units out in the market.

-T.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Hi All

Sad to say I have hit a snag just as I was about to cross the finish line.

Everything is in and working great except the Radio. When I connected the antenna using the adapter from the kit I got no signal. So I went out to try another from my local Car Mart and the result was the same. I am not even able to receive strong channels. Next was to try a normal stick up antenna propped up on the back seat and Eureka! So at least I know the Radio works. Just seems that the antenna signal from the diversity antenna is not getting through somehow???

I have a 2003 996 C2 Cabrio with a diversity antenna and am now wondering if I need to connect both plugs as opposed to just the one or worse still need a 12 booster? If anyone can clarify I would be much obliged or if someone could point me in the right direction as I would hate to fail now having come this far.

Many thanks in advance.

Posted

Out of curiosity, does your original factory radio still get reception when reinstalled? I would use that first to establish that there is a signal coming through the radio antenna to your original radio. Once you confirm this, I would reinstall the aftermarket radio...and check to make sure the antenna adapter is connected properly. If you still do not receive a signal, I would take a meter tester to see if there is a break in the antenna adapter...if so, you may need a replacement antenna adapter to replace the defective one.

Hi All

Sad to say I have hit a snag just as I was about to cross the finish line.

Everything is in and working great except the Radio. When I connected the antenna using the adapter from the kit I got no signal. So I went out to try another from my local Car Mart and the result was the same. I am not even able to receive strong channels. Next was to try a normal stick up antenna propped up on the back seat and Eureka! So at least I know the Radio works. Just seems that the antenna signal from the diversity antenna is not getting through somehow???

I have a 2003 996 C2 Cabrio with a diversity antenna and am now wondering if I need to connect both plugs as opposed to just the one or worse still need a 12 booster? If anyone can clarify I would be much obliged or if someone could point me in the right direction as I would hate to fail now having come this far.

Many thanks in advance.

Posted (edited)

Thanks for the rapid reply.

PCM2 unit works fine.

If I stick a piece of wire into the antenna socket of the radio, viola! It works! But as soon as I try either one of the diversity antenna connectors it fails. :(

If I use the adapter provided and stick my make shift antenna (piece of stripped wire)in it also works.

It is defo as if there is not enough signal boost. So I wonder if the old PCM2 unit had an antenna pre-amp built in. I know a lot of BMW's have antenna boosters. Hence the reason for my suspicion.

UPDATENo 12V to the antenna booster! Even though the head unit is wired correctly and its little blue wire is supposed to supply 12V there was none. So I wired the antenna amp wire to the switched 12V supply and all is AOK. It looks fantasitico! :):):)

Edited by dirtydonki
  • 1 month later...
Posted

I have a 2003 Carrera and I am looking to swap my CDR23 factory unit out with a PCM2 Navigation unit. Is there a separate DVD unit that the PCM2 connects to or is it all in one in the head unit? If it is two separate units for the navigation, does the 2003 Carrera come pre-wired?

Thanks!

  • Admin
Posted

:welcome:

Yes, no.

You need the TSB for installation of PCM 2.x - it lists all the parts and procedures.

Contributing Members here have access to read all the Porsche TSBs.

Posted

Awesome kits, trieullionaire. I'm planning on installing a Clarion NX500 into my '00 986 and am wondering if you are going to be producing any more 986 kits? Also, did you ever start making matte bezels to match the stock appearance? Thanks!

  • 6 months later...
Posted

Hello,

I was wondering if you got the chance to solve our issues on how to load a .apn custom opening wallpaper on a Alpine W502R unit?

I have received two files (opening.apn, VUP_INFO.CDR) from Alpine Belgium but when I put the disc in the headunit, it gives a disc error.

And if I try to choose the Data Download, the arrows dont let me change, and USERs dont change either.

If you could, your help will be appreciated greatly!

Please pm or email me!

Cheers!

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Just wanted to reopen this thread to see if anyone can refer me to a link on where to purchase matte bezels for the 2-din HU. I'm planning on replacing my PCM system on my 2000 Carrera and the job hinges on getting it to look as close to stock as possible. It seems like that trim piece is the only thing standing in my way. I checked ebay and can't seem to find triellionaire's products (or anyone else's for that matter).

Thanks so much. Enjoy the spring driving weather!!!

Posted

so for the MOST system, how do you get the signal from the headunit to the aftermarket amp? Is it through the yellow connector?

And maybe a better question: Im thinking of running wires through the firewall to use the pioneer avic head unit

to drive the front speakers instead of an amp, maybe even getting a 2 way crossover to split the front signal

between the dash speakers and the door woofers. Does someone sell, say, a 4 or 8 wire bundle in a 6 or 8 foot length

that would look somewhat like factory wiring, ie bundled to make it easier to run from inside the vehicle to the front compartment?

thanks

I would like to thank you for all the time you've spent to create these DIY.

But I still don't understand something :

Rahlstrom, it seems to me that the modifications you suggest to trieullionnaire 's DIY, are about the install (and alternate wiring) of an aftermarket amp....

So, what are the differences of procedures between MOST cars (your DIY) and non-MOST cars (Trieullionnaire's)?

With my 996 (MOST), which instructions should I follow , since I have a Bose system ?

Thanks again... :rolleyes:

Softail.

The wiring harness provided by trieullionnare will not work for a MOST bus install and your Bose amp will not work with the AVIC D3 or any non-Porsche radio. If you still choose to upgrade the head unit you are basically going to have to replace both the head and amp and then pick off signals for the new head unit from the factory wiring and re-use the speaker wiring in the front trunk to connect to the amp (all the signals and pins are on the chart in my DIY). So basically, follow trieullionnare's DIY for the physical prep and install and mine for the wiring.

If you buy a kit from him you will need to modify the harness with the black connector to match the pin locations for the unswitched power, ground, speed and reverse signals and modify the harness that connects to the yellow factory harness connector for the amp remote signal. You will also need to run switched power to the radio and if you do it the way I did, it is available from the phone prep connector. From there you will run RCA cables from the head unit to the new amp and connect the amp speaker outputs to the old amp harness using the wiring chart in the DIY.

It's all very complicated so I understand the confusion. Feel free to email me with any further questions or I can give you a call to discuss the DIY. Just send me a private message with a number if you would like a call.

Posted

Hi there,

I am planning to install the Pioneer Avic Z2 unit into my 2001 Porsche 911 C4. My car currently had CDR-220 with cd unit on the deck, no Bose system but it's had some type of amps infront beside the right passenger wheel. I have an estimate form the shop but it is rediculus dollar they want to install. They asking to replace the amp, speakers and update the Porsche (computer)management system. After reading this forum, it's seem like I had been scam by these people.

When I read forum, this installation seem pretty straight forward without any implication with the computer ship on the car.

Please advise if I am missing something here

Posted (edited)

I am going to present the story of my installation of a Pioneer Avic Z120 BT navigation system into a 2001 Porsche 996. This car has the "premium' sound system with the separate non-Bose amp, non Bose speakers. It does not have the MOST bus.

smcar.jpg

The install consisted of the Euro Motorspeed 99-01 PORSCHE 996 CARRERA DOUBLE DIN INSTALLATION, the Pioneer Avic Z120BT, and the Pioneer GEX P920XM XM radio tuner.

smkit.jpg

There have been several changes and the details of manufacture of the chassis provided by Trieullionaire through his Euro Motorspeed company which sells on eBay.

EuroKit.jpg

There have also been several changes in the wiring schemata.

Euro Motorspeed Wiring Diagram

This is because the original instructions for the mechanics of installation of the chassis and the wiring diagrams were done in 2007.

Euro Motorspeed's tech man (possibly the owner as far as I know) was extremely helpful and patient with me when I called him at least six times over the weekend as I did my installation. I want to thank him and praise the professional nature of his company for their product and their assistance.

smdashbefore.jpgsmdashaftervideo.jpg

Probably the most significant change in the chassis is that it no measurements are required for installation. The formally describe 13/16 of an inch of setback is no longer demanded. Instead, one need only properly place the navigation unit in the chassis and positioning in the dash will be secured. One should note that when the chassis arrives it will have been shipped incomplete assembly form. That is the inner chassis will be bolted to the outer chassis fees for small Philips head bolts must be removed to properly attach the energy chassis to the navigation unit. Only after installing navigation unit in inner chassis should inner chassis be bolted to outer chassis. Also there was no support bar and my kit as this is no longer required with the new design of chassis.

Old Install instructions

Step one:

I had a great deal of difficulty removing the stock radio. The key's provided fit properly; but the fit was so tight that thespring tabs would not be compressed to an extent that allowed the radio to be removed. I was forced to additionally leverage the radio with small screwdrivers in order to remove it. Luckily this resulted in only one small scratch to the lateral dash opening.

smdashhole.jpg

I had no special problem sawing the center separation bar out. However this operation would be simpler after removing the entire plastic factory housing, as I later saw was suggested by Trieullionaire. I did have to remove the old metal radio support bracket in the deeper recesses of the dash compartment see below.

smbar.jpg

As you can see from the photo of my stock dashboard, it was not necessary for me to move my climate control unit and so I did not need to disassemble the lower compartment.

As previously stated there was no new support bracket to install.

Step two:

The following alterations were made from the original wiring harness instructions dated 2007:

If you're using a pioneer unit look up the directions for your model as regards the method of bypassing the handbrake fail safe as they will vary from the 2007 directions.

In the steps D. and E. in the 2007 directions, they directions should state to connect the yellow wire to yellow wire and the red wire to red wire. The harnesses have been changed since 2007 to make the color coding match correct.

smwires.jpg

I did not connect the rear view camera.

I placed the pioneer XM radio component in the little storage shelf beneath the steering wheel that is usually used to contain the owner's manual. I placed the XM antenna on the outside upper windshield frame, centered above the mirror; and routed the wire underneath the windshield rubber molding, around to the driver side door, and thus beneath the dash to the XM unit.

smxm.jpgsmxmantfull.jpg

smxmant.jpg

I placed the microphone atop the steering column via the double adhesive pad provided.

mic.jpg

micclose.jpg

As per the instructions posted by p0rsch3 on the "Six Speed Online" forum page, I placed the GPS antenna underneath the infrared sensor cover, routing the wire directly through a hole for the infrared sensor to behind the dash.

smgps%20ant.jpg

I routed the wire for the Ipod integration cable down into the center console, through the center console, and into the center console compartment. I was able to do this without removing the entire center console housing. I only had to elevate the shifter boot and remove carpeting and one side panel on the passenger-side of the console footwell. With some finesse, and the aid of a grasping retrieval tool, smgrabber.jpgI was able to pass the wire as stated. I did need to drill a small hole through the bottom of the console compartment and cut a small piece of rubber from the rubber liner for the bottom of the console compartment.

One last tip from trieullionaire that I found extremely helpful was to fit the surround in place prior to reinstalling the factory side panels that surround the side switches

smlogoscreen.jpg

smdashvid.jpg

As you can see the final installation looks extremely professional. I was greatly pleased with the quality of the kit I received from Euro Motorspeed, and all the telephone support they gave me. He even called a couple days later to make sure how the installation went.

Edited by eo11
Posted

many thanks to Eo11 for the reply,

The following equipment I am planning to install in my 2001 Porsche 996 C4 are:

* Pioneer AVIC-Z2 with the parking brake bypassed

* iPod Interface Adapter for Pioneer Head Units CD-iB100 II

* ND-BT1 bluetooth adapter

* Terk XM Direct XM Radio Receiver

My 2001 Porsche dash set up is the same posted by EO11. I do not have to remove climate control unit. I am using the kit purchased from Euro Motorspeed. Base on the wire adapter installation, we should be able to match up with all the Porsche manufacture wire but where should I drawn (or tap in) powering for the my iPod Interface Adapter for Pioneer Head Units CD-iB100 II, ND-BT1 bluetooth adapter and Terk XM Direct XM Radio Receiver.

Please advise

Posted

Eo11: Thanks for posting another DIY for a double-DIN installation. It really is fantastic. I do have a couple of questions though:

1. Your link to Euro Motor Speed's wiring diagram in your post points to the photo and not to a wiring diagram. Could you post the wiring diagram as I assume its an error. That would be very helpful

2. How long did the entire install take?

3. If you have time I'd like to get your thoughts on the 120BT's performance.

Thanks again...

Posted

Eo11: Thanks for posting another DIY for a double-DIN installation. It really is fantastic. I do have a couple of questions though:

1. Your link to Euro Motor Speed's wiring diagram in your post points to the photo and not to a wiring diagram. Could you post the wiring diagram as I assume its an error. That would be very helpful

2. How long did the entire install take?

3. If you have time I'd like to get your thoughts on the 120BT's performance.

Thanks again...

Sorry. I just fixed that bad link

The entire install took 2 days (Sat and Sunday); but I am pretty meticulous and 65 years old so you can probably get done faster.

I love the Avic Z120 It's sound shaping features add volume and depth to the stock amp. The video is not HD; but perfectly acceptable for a small screen.

It took me a few days to get fully facile with all the manual and voice controls and the time lag for the Ipod dictionary to be reloaded after starting the car delays the ability to use voice commands on Ipod by several minutes. The screen also disappears if you're wearing polarized sunglasses.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Please advise.

After install a pionner avic Z2 in the car..when I close the door, the light flash twice and single beep horn if follow..Am I forget something?? I bought the kits from Euro Motorspeed

  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

I gained a lot of information from this post, so I thought I should share my experience and perhaps help some others. My car is a 03 996 with the base soundsystem. I installed a JVC KW-AVX840.

The current version of the Euro Motorspeed kit has a sleeve with flanges on all four sides which is designed to make installation centered in the opening easy. I am guessing that not all years are consistent on evenness of the opening. Mine were not even with the top and bottom being more recessed than the sides. I needed to shim the upper and lower flanges to make it work. Once I shimmed it, the sleeve worked reasonably well. Bending tabs cut into the sleeve are supposed to hold it in position. It can shift around if pushed, but in practice, it seems to work well.

I had some difficulty getting the climate control unit to fit in the lower slot. I found a posting on Pelican suggesting that four small ridges in the white plastic on each of the back corners was the problem. I trimmed those off and it fit, tightly, but I figured that that was good.

I was confused by the aluminum support bracket which is about midway inside the housing where the radio and climate control unit were. Based on some posts here, I thought that it had to be removed, but I saw no obvious way of doing so. Trieullionaire answered my phone call right away (he has both times I called him). He said that the support bracket should stay in, but that the black horizontal pieces attached to it needed to be removed. These pieces form a bracket into which the top of the radio slid and which supported the climate control unit from below. I tried bending them up out of the way, but the metal is pretty thick so that did not work. I put a grinding attachment on the dremel and removed the rivets holding the pieces on. This took a while, but the pieces came out.

I wanted to mount the microphone in the factory location which meant getting the instrument panel loose. At least on my car, removing the bezel surrounding the hazard switch was more difficult than the instructions I found suggested. Prying it off looked like it was going to mark the leather because I could not get the bezel to lift away at all. I found a suggestion somewhere on the web of removing the flasher button and then putting a screwdriver in one of the slots on the interior sides of the bezel and pulling on the screwdriver withpliers. That worked, although it did take several minutes of searching to find the bezel after it flew off at nearsonic speed.

My next problem was running the microphone wire. The plug end had a 90 degree bend in it whichwould not make it through any of the routes I could find in the instrument cluster. I cut the wire, ran and did a splice. Those wires are very very small and after my splice, the microphone was not working at all. I then bought a Olympus ME-52W Noise Canceling Microphone. Again, I did a splice, but the microphone sounded terrible from the factory location. I then placed the microphone in the space immediately in front of the steering wheel. It was still terrible; lots of distortion. I found a microphone volume adjustment on the JVC unit and got it to work well enough to be understood, but it is not really very good at all. The microphone does agood job eliminating background noise, but my voice sounds very distant. I may need to try another microphone. In hindsight, I should have completely removed the instrument panel, but I did not want to unplug it.

One of my bigger problems was that the JVC KW-AVX840 was sitting either too far in the dash or too far out depending on which mounting holes I used in the brackets. I first thought that I could use the deeper position and then use longer screws which attach the mounting bracket into the sleeve and that would allow me to get theunit forward using washers to create some space. As always, Trieullionaire was very helpful and sent me the specs on the screws so that I could get longer ones. If I took that approach, I was going to haveto do some major surgery on the bezel from the kit, so I looked at other options. I noticed that there were mounting holes on the brackets roughly in the right position but which were located a bit off vertically, so I elongated the holes with a Dremel and now the unit fits reasonably well. The bezel is meant to be held in by tension, but my cupholder knocks it out. I should trim it a bit and find another wayto mount it, but my patience is gone and I am done messing with it, at least for a while. I never use the cupholder anyway. Overall, the unit mounting and the bezel are not quite even in depth, but they are close. I am reasonably happy with it. When my tolerance for tinkering with it is restored I may take it out and adjust a few things to make it fit better.

Trieullionaire suggested tapping the illumination wirefor the light surrounding the lighter for the illumination input to the new system, but since I was removing the center console to run the USB cable to therear console box, I tapped the wire to the ashtray light instead. It was more accessible.

When I went to reinstall the instrument cluster, I discovered that the clip into which the screw next to the hazard button was gone. Luckily, I had a replacement clip which fit.

I have the alarm beeping problem with the radio removed. I tried to locate the wire which others have mentioned which needs to be grounded in order to avoid alarm problems, but I cannot find the wire. I wonder if I moved it while trying to remove the support bracket which I did not need to remove. I could not see anywires on the left side except those that run to the PSM button and the wiper rheostat. Perhaps the alarm portion changed when they went to the MOST bus system? This is very frustrating. I would like to find the answer.

If you have a MOST bus car, but the base audio system, that is, one with no separate amp, then the MOST bus connection to the CDR23 is not connected. Euro Motorspeed sent a kit assuming that I had a separate amp. I called and Trieullionaire very promptly send a replacement harness wired sothat the new head unit powers the speakers.

If you use the phone prep harness for your switched power, the feature where you could listen to your sound system with the key in the ignition but the car not on no longer works. The key now has to be in the on position for the sound system to work.

I ran both a USB cable and a JVC specific cable under the center console to the compartment in the back of it. I notched a hole at the bottom of the front wall of the compartment for the pass through and then taped the wires in position to hold them in place for reassembly.

This was a lot of work to get done. I suspect that a pro could have positioned the unit better. Unlike other projects where I felt good about having done something myself, I don't feel that way about this one. Now I wish I had looked harder for a pro to do the installation.

Edited by DCP
  • 2 months later...
Posted

Questions for the team,

I own a 2001 Porsche 911 Carrera Cab with PCM. I have purchased the following:

Kenwood DNX7140 (used for $400.00) - new power/av harness

new Ipod cable

new Kenwood Mic

Sirus Radio Kenwood package

New GPS cable

EuroSport 996 double din kit

JL Audio XD600/6 600W 3/4/5/6 Channel Amplifier

If the DNX7140 is a 4-channel head unit...can I still use the factory speakers - 4" bass subs in the doors and all of the front/rear speakers? Will this sound ok? I am going to take this in to be done but wanted to see what you guys thought first.

Also, does the GPS antenna have to go outside the car or can it be mounted the same as the Sirus/XM antenna next to the alarm indicator?

Thanks,

Carl

  • 10 months later...
Posted

Just bought the Ebay kit, but have a 2003+ without BOSe. But still uses a MOST system. Anyone have instructions on how to do the install or wiring? There is no way to reuse the exisiting amp? Where is the exisiting amp, and how can I wire the speakers up to the new deck?

Any help will be appreciated,

Thanks,

Ben

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Hi there

New to RennTech and Porsche ownership.

I would like to pay thanks to all that have posted before me on this topic. I completed the install of my Kenwood using the kit from Euromotorsport. Very straight forward instructions supplied (especially after reading all the tips and tricks from the forum) Just waiting for the camera to arrive so I can fully complete and tidy-up!

Cheers

Peter

  • 2 months later...
Posted

I just bought an avic 940 bt and have two questions, why is trill not connecting red to red and yellow to yellow. On my 2002 cdr220 the yellow wire is for the positive battery lead the same as the avic 940 and the red is for the accessory power.

Second my avic 940 does not have a blue antenna wire in the RCA harness rather it only has a blue wire in the power harness for remote amp power. What do I do with the blue connector in the Porsche harness?

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