Passenger window stuck all the way down...

[MDA0303]

Its a 2002 boxster. Stored its whole life. Only has 16,000 miles on it.

But i cant get the window to go up. When I push the button all i hear is a click coming from the door.

I am new to this forum.. but i have over 10,000 posts on vwvortex for my second car.

can you please tell me if you have had experience with this issue. any quick ways to fix. how much the part will run me. and where i should look to get it.

thank you,

mike

[rsfeller]

Mike,

Welcome newbie, let me be the first to tell you to get the Bentley manual if you don't have it already. Nobody should be w/o it especially if you plan to be a DIY'r. Since you have some many posts on vortex I'm guessing you can do quite a bit.

First do a search on the board. The common issues with the window are well documented. Sounds like the switch and relay are working so you issue is with the motor or drive system. The later fails the most with the fraying and stretching or breaking. Often the fray problem is detected by the the windows inablity to go up or down the small amount to clear the seal when you pull the handle. If the problem was neglected completely then the wire could have broke in the down position.

Get the Bentley and read the posts, you need to pull the cover off the door and get to the motor and drive system.

Can you hear the motor attempting to turn?

The drive system for the car can be found on ebay as well as new with our site sponsor, Sunset Imports. See the link under Special Offers tab for P parts at dealer cost.

If you get anything from this board (and you will) please donate to the hard work and costs of Loren the owner/moderator and become a contributing members.

Shawn

www.carboncow.com

[MDA0303]

thank you that is great information. I gotten away without the bentley manual with the VW but this could be my reason to pick one up.

i do not hear the motor try to work at all. all i can hear is a click from inside the door when i push the button.

im going to start trying to do some research now. anymore input from other members would be great.

[rsfeller]

The motor could be good and just binding. YOu really need to get in there to make the assesment. Even if the news is bad you could posibly get the window up, drive the car with the panel off and wait patiently for parts to arrive.

1. Get the Bentley, seriously.

2. Get the Durametric software (google it) if you have the budget and a laptop. Worth it's weight in good with the first issue you have.

with the motor in hand you can directly apply 12v one way and then the other to test the motors capacity in both directions.

You most likely have the very common window regular cable frey problem. Lots of info is already on teh board including from me.

As with most cars you buy used there will be a bout 3-6 ugly problems that may rear their ugly head with a Boxster. The day I bought mine it had 3 of them and then the window regular cable came later. This issues include.

SRS and failed horn due to bad bushings in the SRS drivers airbag assembly failing. Cheap and easy fix.

SRS airbag codes due to failed connections at seat belts and ground point. Well documented and cheap DIY fix.

MAF failure.

RMS failure.

and my favorite, foam shooting from your air vents. Read my long winded solution on www.carboncow.com

Shawn

[MDA0303]

and my favorite, foam shooting from your air vents. Read my long winded solution on www.carboncow.com

haha wow.

We bought the car new in 2002. Amazingly it never got driven. The only problems that is has it traction control is stuck in the ON position. (probably from me putting it sideways a couple times) and the window issue

im going to do surgery tomorrow on it and let you guys know what i find out. thanks for everything.

[MDA0303]

And i have the VAG-com obdII software on my laptop for my VW. one of the best things i have bought for it. I might start looking into the porsche software.

[rsfeller]

OBD2 is a good tool but if you have the resources the Durametric goes way beyound with it's ability to tell you all sensor values. For example I was troubleshooting a heating/cooling issue and it can tell you what angle the servos that run all the vents and valves are at to determine issues. It's almost a complete PST and they guys who develop it respond to feedback and keep bring new needs online.

Shawn

[1schoir]

and my favorite, foam shooting from your air vents. Read my long winded solution on www.carboncow.com

haha wow.

We bought the car new in 2002. Amazingly it never got driven. The only problems that is has it traction control is stuck in the ON position. (probably from me putting it sideways a couple times) and the window issue

im going to do surgery tomorrow on it and let you guys know what i find out. thanks for everything.

MDA:

Welcome!

Here is a link that covers the door panel removal procedure in detail: http://www.ecoutez.net/boxster/door-panel-removal/

The only piece that is a little tricky to remove without breaking off a tab that helps to hold it in place is the surround that partially encircles the inner door pull.

Looking from underneath the plastic cover, you'll notice a small indentation in the center, towards the rear of that piece. You can work a small flathead screwdriver in there at the appropriate time, and, at that time, you can gently just separate it slightly from its contact surface with the door panel. First, though, put some significant pressure on the top (horizontal) rearmost surface of that plastic piece. Then, work the small flathead screwdriver in the indentation from underneath to separate it and then grab the whole plastic piece and rotate it upwards, pulling the bottom towards you and up, WHILE KEEPING THE DOWNWARD PRESSURE ON THE TOP REARMOST HORIZONTAL SURFACE OF THE PIECE. Note that the pressing down while rotating the piece is what keeps the small tab that is under that section from breaking. From what I have read, they break 50% of the time, but if you do it this way, they will not break.

Here is a link for replacing the window regulator, which is almost certain to be the part that has failed (rather than the motor):

http://www.bombaydigital.com/boxster/projects/window/

I agree with rsfeller regarding the value of the Bentley Manual and the Durametric software. Both are invaluable if you intend to DIY.

Regards, Maurice.

[grover]

Here is a link that covers the door panel removal procedure in detail: http://www.ecoutez.net/boxster/door-panel-removal/

I see a warning there about the radio code before disconnecting the battery- what's the deal there? Will the radio stop working?

Edit: I have a 2004, if it's different with the later 986s.

Edited March 21, 2008 by grover

[1schoir]

Here is a link that covers the door panel removal procedure in detail: http://www.ecoutez.net/boxster/door-panel-removal/

I see a warning there about the radio code before disconnecting the battery- what's the deal there? Will the radio stop working?

Edit: I have a 2004, if it's different with the later 986s.

Grover:

A radio security code is required to be reset only on the earlier Boxsters, up to and including MY02.

AFAIK, no radio code is needed for MY04 Boxsters.

Also, follow the instructions for the air bag disconnect very carefully, both in terms of safety and in terms of not setting off the airbag light (which can then only be reset with a PIWIS, PST2 or Durametric).

To err on the side of caution with regards to the airbag light, make sure that the ignition is off and that the key is out of the ignition at all times until and unless everything is assembled back together. Although I understand it's not absolutely necesarry (for airbag light purposes) I also disconnect the negative cable of the battery, which then concurrently takes care of a part of the safety aspect of the airbag (wait at least one full minute after the battery is disconnected before attempting to take apart the airbag connection).

Regards, Maurice.

Edited March 22, 2008 by 1schoir

[grover]

Grover:

A radio security code is required to be reset only on the earlier Boxsters, up to and including MY02.

AFAIK, no radio code is needed for MY04 Boxsters.

Also, follow the instructions for the air bag disconnect very carefully, both in terms of safety and in terms of not setting off the airbag light (which can then only be reset with a PIWIS, PST2 or Durametric).

To err on the side of caution with regards to the airbag light, make sure that the ignition is off and that the key is out of the ignition at all times until and unless everything is assembled back together. Although I understand it's not absolutely necesarry (for airbag light purposes) I also disconnect the negative cable of the battery, which then concurrently takes care of a part of the safety aspect of the airbag (wait at least one full minute after the battery is disconnected before attempting to take apart the airbag connection).

Regards, Maurice.

Thank you! Disconnecting the battery is one step I've widely ignored in the past working on my other cars, and, shoot, I drove for a month with the panel off the door of my camaro once, but this is clearly not one of my other cars ;) So far, no door problems with the 986, but I just got the car and saw your warning about the battery and it concerned me. I'll be extra careful to follow the procedures for all repairs and extra extra careful about the airbags now. Edited March 22, 2008 by grover