GT3 wing shim

[GatorGT3]

Have been trying to locate shims for the GT3 wing. Pelican parts lists them, but indicates they are discontinued and unavailable. Does anyone have another source where one could find them? Thanks

[Loren]

Carnewal.com

http://www.carnewal-europe.com/cpx_p96125.htm

[ltcjmramos]

Have been trying to locate shims for the GT3 wing. Pelican parts lists them, but indicates they are discontinued and unavailable. Does anyone have another source where one could find them? Thanks

Not that expensive. Go direct to a dealer or TRG.

4 degree 996.512.821.90 $25/pair

8 degree 996.512.823.90 $25/pair

[inverterman]

I know I wasn't asked and i do not mean to hijack the thread but the factory wing adjustment works well in most scenarios. There is a misunderstanding of increased downforce on the rear of the car making it handle better. Quite the contrary. If you are going to increase the rear you should consider a different splitter in the front as well. Kind of like adding HP without adding Brakes. I have tried changing the rear wing setting with unsettling results. The best thing I did was put the cup splitter. The front end sticks like glue.

Boy I hope I did not open a can of worms ;)

[GatorGT3]

I know I wasn't asked and i do not mean to hijack the thread but the factory wing adjustment works well in most scenarios. There is a misunderstanding of increased downforce on the rear of the car making it handle better. Quite the contrary. If you are going to increase the rear you should consider a different splitter in the front as well. Kind of like adding HP without adding Brakes. I have tried changing the rear wing setting with unsettling results. The best thing I did was put the cup splitter. The front end sticks like glue.

Boy I hope I did not open a can of worms ;)

Great point. Do you think that is due to the downward direction of the air coming off the roof wiht the lower positioned stock wings versus the higher race wing position and the more horrizontal direction of the air over the roof--i.e. with the stock wing and downward air, you don't need to adjust anymore downforce into it?

[inverterman]

Not exactly what I am saying but along the right lines. I am no expert. It really is a science that I was fortunate enough to witness in a wind tunnel. On a high speed track a wing positioned with additional height at the appropriate angle will provide greater rear traction. As the rear pushes down the front could have the opposite effect creating a stability problem. There is a definite purpose for shims and such but please consider the Cup Lip when you shim the wing. Road courses with occasional high speed straights require greater downforce on the front. A simple change in the lip will make a noticeable difference with turn in requiring less trail braking to keep the front end planted.

The attached photo is top of the corkscrew at Laguna Seca. The car can be at or near 90MPH cresting the hill, breathing the throttle at the crest, then braking, turn in. That little lip you see here on the car made a difference. Look at the grip on the rear tires while the front is ever so nicely pointed. There is a thread here somewhere discussing steering precision. Makes you wonder if it is all about aerodynamics?

[TurboCup87]

Not exactly what I am saying but along the right lines. I am no expert. It really is a science that I was fortunate enough to witness in a wind tunnel. On a high speed track a wing positioned with additional height at the appropriate angle will provide greater rear traction. As the rear pushes down the front could have the opposite effect creating a stability problem. There is a definite purpose for shims and such but please consider the Cup Lip when you shim the wing. Road courses with occasional high speed straights require greater downforce on the front. A simple change in the lip will make a noticeable difference with turn in requiring less trail braking to keep the front end planted.

The attached photo is top of the corkscrew at Laguna Seca. The car can be at or near 90MPH cresting the hill, breathing the throttle at the crest, then braking, turn in. That little lip you see here on the car made a difference. Look at the grip on the rear tires while the front is ever so nicely pointed. There is a thread here somewhere discussing steering precision. Makes you wonder if it is all about aerodynamics?

Where did you get the Cup front lip? I've had the same concern and haven't rushed to get the shims, since I was concerned about front lift.

[inverterman]

TurboCup,

I am out of town and the file is at home. It is a fairly common replacement. It was about $175.00. I will repost with the name of the company when I get home tomorrow.

[GatorGT3]

Not exactly what I am saying but along the right lines. I am no expert. It really is a science that I was fortunate enough to witness in a wind tunnel. On a high speed track a wing positioned with additional height at the appropriate angle will provide greater rear traction. As the rear pushes down the front could have the opposite effect creating a stability problem. There is a definite purpose for shims and such but please consider the Cup Lip when you shim the wing. Road courses with occasional high speed straights require greater downforce on the front. A simple change in the lip will make a noticeable difference with turn in requiring less trail braking to keep the front end planted.

The attached photo is top of the corkscrew at Laguna Seca. The car can be at or near 90MPH cresting the hill, breathing the throttle at the crest, then braking, turn in. That little lip you see here on the car made a difference. Look at the grip on the rear tires while the front is ever so nicely pointed. There is a thread here somewhere discussing steering precision. Makes you wonder if it is all about aerodynamics?

Where did you get the Cup front lip? I've had the same concern and haven't rushed to get the shims, since I was concerned about front lift.

Have found some Cup spitters on the internet and can't really tell the difference between those and the stock splitter. Could you clarify the difference?

[clord]

Hi Gator..... The Cup front air dam for the 996 GT3 is a small amount deeper/wider in the front/center, but is maintains it's width all the way around to it's ends near the front wheel arches. The stock dam/splitter tapers from the front corners to the ends at the wheel arches. The difference may not appear great, but, the aerodynamic difference must be measurable. The Cup dam is cheaper too.

[TurboCup87]

Hi Gator..... The Cup front air dam for the 996 GT3 is a small amount deeper/wider in the front/center, but is maintains it's width all the way around to it's ends near the front wheel arches. The stock dam/splitter tapers from the front corners to the ends at the wheel arches. The difference may not appear great, but, the aerodynamic difference must be measurable. The Cup dam is cheaper too.

Can you suggest a source, or have Part# for this Cup splitter?

[clord]

The Cup Spoiler Lip/splitter is a direct replacement for the stock and is part number 996 505 986 91. I got mine from The Racer's Group. I carry a good supply of the plastic rivets that help hold the thing in place too. Street rivets are listed at 999 507 427 40 or 999 507 497 40, Cup as 999 507 557 40, all will work. In any case you should consider the spoiler lip as a "consumable item". You will scrape it, and, likely, rip it off at some point no matter how careful you are. Mine has even been bent backwards, and ripped off by insufficiently flattend road kill. I bent the lip under the car, then ran over it and it flew into a farmer's field. I retrieved it and, other than some scratches, it still works fine. My experience: if you just stick it on with the plastic rivets it can even blow off at high speed. I've finally had good luck by thoroughly cleaning both the lip and the bumper with adhesive cleaner, then using Porsche's double sided sticky foam tape (part number 000 043 206 04, which is made by 3M) AND the plastic rivets, AND then sealing the joint between the lip and bumper with 1.5" wide stretchy vinyl tape. The tape helps by keeping road grit and gravel from jamming into the joint and prying it open at speed. For the double sided tape, you can substitute the strongest 3M stuff you can find at the hardware store, but, it will likely be white. The Porsche part is dark gray. This process will keep the lip on through most abuse, and still let it tear off the bumper in a major impact (mine was a racoon) without tearing the holes in the bumper. All this is easiest done with the bumper taken off the car. You might take the bumper off every year anyway to clean all the junk out of the radiators. Good luck.

[TurboCup87]

The Cup Spoiler Lip/splitter is a direct replacement for the stock and is part number 996 505 986 91. I got mine from The Racer's Group. I carry a good supply of the plastic rivets that help hold the thing in place too. Street rivets are listed at 999 507 427 40 or 999 507 497 40, Cup as 999 507 557 40, all will work. In any case you should consider the spoiler lip as a "consumable item". You will scrape it, and, likely, rip it off at some point no matter how careful you are. Mine has even been bent backwards, and ripped off by insufficiently flattend road kill. I bent the lip under the car, then ran over it and it flew into a farmer's field. I retrieved it and, other than some scratches, it still works fine. My experience: if you just stick it on with the plastic rivets it can even blow off at high speed. I've finally had good luck by thoroughly cleaning both the lip and the bumper with adhesive cleaner, then using Porsche's double sided sticky foam tape (part number 000 043 206 04, which is made by 3M) AND the plastic rivets, AND then sealing the joint between the lip and bumper with 1.5" wide stretchy vinyl tape. The tape helps by keeping road grit and gravel from jamming into the joint and prying it open at speed. For the double sided tape, you can substitute the strongest 3M stuff you can find at the hardware store, but, it will likely be white. The Porsche part is dark gray. This process will keep the lip on through most abuse, and still let it tear off the bumper in a major impact (mine was a racoon) without tearing the holes in the bumper. All this is easiest done with the bumper taken off the car. You might take the bumper off every year anyway to clean all the junk out of the radiators. Good luck.

THX for all of the info, clord

[Qualified Pole]

Have been trying to locate shims for the GT3 wing. Pelican parts lists them, but indicates they are discontinued and unavailable. Does anyone have another source where one could find them? Thanks

Sorry for the delay, I just saw this. If you are still looking, I have one set of new-in-bag 4 degree shims I never used before I sold the 6GT3. $25 shipped. PM me if interested.

[GatorGT3]

Have been trying to locate shims for the GT3 wing. Pelican parts lists them, but indicates they are discontinued and unavailable. Does anyone have another source where one could find them? Thanks

Sorry for the delay, I just saw this. If you are still looking, I have one set of new-in-bag 4 degree shims I never used before I sold the 6GT3. $25 shipped. PM me if interested.

Ordered them just prior to your post. Thanks anyway.

[Qualified Pole]

Have been trying to locate shims for the GT3 wing. Pelican parts lists them, but indicates they are discontinued and unavailable. Does anyone have another source where one could find them? Thanks

Sorry for the delay, I just saw this. If you are still looking, I have one set of new-in-bag 4 degree shims I never used before I sold the 6GT3. $25 shipped. PM me if interested.

Ordered them just prior to your post. Thanks anyway.

No problem, I haven't thought about them until I saw the your thread. I have some other 996 stuff laying around as well that I need to post in the classifieds. Time for some spring cleaning.

[inverterman]

Perfect! :)