Anyone do the Fan Mod? Need some help

[boostiality]

When dealing with electronics I usually pass it on to someone else that knows what their doing. But this time I want to learn because this is so simple I'm pulling my hair out. Has anyone ever done the fan mod that turns on the radiator fans with a switch?

I made a small circuit, uses a simple toggle switch, I'm using the screw that holds the fuse block on the drivers side as a ground. I tapped into relays 20 and 22 on the #86 prong. When I did this I blew the fuses for those 2 circuits. What am I doing wrong?? any help would be appreciated!

Joe

[wvicary]

May I ask why you would want to do this mod??

[Chris_in_NH]

i'm interested to know why as well. ;)

is your car running hot? or is this for the turbo project (in which i am VERY interested!)?

Edited February 28, 2008 by Chris_in_NH

[boostiality]

i'm interested to know why as well. ;)

is your car running hot? or is this for the turbo project (in which i am VERY interested!)?

It's another one of those "hey it cost 5 dollars so why not do it" sort of things. Partly because of the turbo project yes, but also partly just for peace of mind. I was planning on doing the center radiator as well for the project since Evo does it for their supercharger kit for the 996's but can't right now due to budget. The good thing about turbo's is that their load induced, so as long as I don't give it the good stuff, she'll remain nice and docile.

BTW I've been checking my coolant temps with the data logger and it's suffice to say that the factory gauge is a little bit more then deceiving to say the least. If your looking at your temp gauge and it's in between the 8 and 0, your car is actually past the 200*F mark, more like 205-208. I've seen mine touch the middle 0 in the summer but can't replicate it with the temps now, but I'm pretty sure thats the 215* region.

The reason why I'm doing this

Running hot = good for emissions/Bad for engine life and performance

[rick3000]

My car has also been running hot lately. This is the first I have heard of this hack, but I would be interested in doing it. Could post a link to the instructions your using or post a DIY for this?

Thanks! :D

[juniinc]

I dont think anyone's ever done this. But that doesn't mean it can't be done? HAHA

I don't really understand why either,but who cares? anyhow I looked at a few pages(for 2000 model),,,,

It seems like what U are doing is shorting out 2 circuits together. When 2 circuits are blown at the same time, most likely 2 circuits are making some kind of contact(short).

There are 2 steps of realys for each COOLING WATER BLOWER 1 & 2 .If we are on the same page - All u will need to do is bypass the 2steps relay.

leave the 86 alone, U do not want to touch those but 87 is the switched leg powers up the fan motor - one is YLW,GRN/the other YLW,BLU.

And relay contact 30 is your primary(power) side - RED/BLK , so therefore we will need to make a jumper between 30 to 87 then your cooling blowing motor should come on.

Now all u need to do is throw a single pole toggle switch.

Good luck!

When dealing with electronics I usually pass it on to someone else that knows what their doing. But this time I want to learn because this is so simple I'm pulling my hair out. Has anyone ever done the fan mod that turns on the radiator fans with a switch?

I made a small circuit, uses a simple toggle switch, I'm using the screw that holds the fuse block on the drivers side as a ground. I tapped into relays 20 and 22 on the #86 prong. When I did this I blew the fuses for those 2 circuits. What am I doing wrong?? any help would be appreciated!

Joe

[boostiality]

I dont think anyone's ever done this. But that doesn't mean it can't be done? HAHA

I don't really understand why either,but who cares? anyhow I looked at a few pages(for 2000 model),,,,

It seems like what U are doing is shorting out 2 circuits together. When 2 circuits are blown at the same time, most likely 2 circuits are making some kind of contact(short).

There are 2 steps of realys for each COOLING WATER BLOWER 1 & 2 .If we are on the same page - All u will need to do is bypass the 2steps relay.

leave the 86 alone, U do not want to touch those but 87 is the switched leg powers up the fan motor - one is YLW,GRN/the other YLW,BLU.

And relay contact 30 is your primary(power) side - RED/BLK , so therefore we will need to make a jumper between 30 to 87 then your cooling blowing motor should come on.

Now all u need to do is throw a single pole toggle switch.

Good luck!

Thanks for the info!

I actually got the info directly from the guy who started spreading this mod on 6speedonline and rennlist... Here it goes from my post at 6speedonline.

http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=120586

If we break down the relay slots

30 = 12V hot constant

87 = takes slot 30 and sends it to the device

86 = Switched power which in this case will get triggered due to coolant temperature

85 = Is the ground for 86

So the original mod creator told me to put a wire into slot 85 for both relays #20 and #22 connect that to one side of the switch. Next side of the toggle switch will then be used for the ground.

Call me paranoid, I just don't like seeing my gauge get in the middle of 8 and 0. From my past experiences when dealing with OBDII based motors is that the computer will start retarding ignition timing a few degrees once it goes past 200*F. More so when your past 210*. So cooler motor=more ignition=more ignition=more power (well not really but more power then what it could be if it was running colder).

[juniinc]

Any time! sounds like U got it all fugured out. But I wouldn't use the toggle on the ground side, just because it isn't too good to leave the contant(+) connected without being grounded.

I dont think anyone's ever done this. But that doesn't mean it can't be done? HAHA

I don't really understand why either,but who cares? anyhow I looked at a few pages(for 2000 model),,,,

It seems like what U are doing is shorting out 2 circuits together. When 2 circuits are blown at the same time, most likely 2 circuits are making some kind of contact(short).

There are 2 steps of realys for each COOLING WATER BLOWER 1 & 2 .If we are on the same page - All u will need to do is bypass the 2steps relay.

leave the 86 alone, U do not want to touch those but 87 is the switched leg powers up the fan motor - one is YLW,GRN/the other YLW,BLU.

And relay contact 30 is your primary(power) side - RED/BLK , so therefore we will need to make a jumper between 30 to 87 then your cooling blowing motor should come on.

Now all u need to do is throw a single pole toggle switch.

Good luck!

Thanks for the info!

I actually got the info directly from the guy who started spreading this mod on 6speedonline and rennlist... Here it goes from my post at 6speedonline.

http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=120586

If we break down the relay slots

30 = 12V hot constant

87 = takes slot 30 and sends it to the device

86 = Switched power which in this case will get triggered due to coolant temperature

85 = Is the ground for 86

So the original mod creator told me to put a wire into slot 85 for both relays #20 and #22 connect that to one side of the switch. Next side of the toggle switch will then be used for the ground.

Call me paranoid, I just don't like seeing my gauge get in the middle of 8 and 0. From my past experiences when dealing with OBDII based motors is that the computer will start retarding ignition timing a few degrees once it goes past 200*F. More so when your past 210*. So cooler motor=more ignition=more ignition=more power (well not really but more power then what it could be if it was running colder).