Ordered Glass top from Robbins

[Tool Pants]

4 bow 986 on a 3 bow 986. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=15976

[pmpjuil]

Hi Sean,

My plastic window was cut by vandals last week, so I'm looking to get the Robbins Window and proceed as you had done. Did you also hook up the power for the electric rear window defogger? Do you need a wiring harness for that?

Derek

Hi Derek, I did hook up the rear defroster as well. They work very good. Wiring harness came with the car.

Installation for it is very very simple. Just plug them in and you are good to go.

Sean.

[klueless7571]

Hi Derek, I did hook up the rear defroster as well. They work very good. Wiring harness came with the car.

Installation for it is very very simple. Just plug them in and you are good to go.

Sean.

Sean,

Thanks. I'm going to get off my butt and order the top soon.

Hopefully, my project will go smooth as yours did. If not, I'll have to hunt you down for advice (being a fellow Vancouverite B) )

Derek

[klueless7571]

Question: Does anyone have the part numbers for the Clamping Rails and the Sliders handy?

Derek

[1schoir]

Question: Does anyone have the part numbers for the Clamping Rails and the Sliders handy?

Derek

Derek:

The updated slider part numbers are 986 561 669 03 (left side) and 986 561 670 03 (right side). (It seems Porsche has changed the versions of these sliders back and forth, so even though your parts bag may have the "03" version imprinted on it, the actual part may have the "02" part number and it will still be correct. Read this thread if you want the full story: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...c=17537&hl= [posts #8, and 22 to 25]).

The clamping rail part numbers are 986.561.559.01 and 986.561.560.01.

If you lose any of the plastic pins, that part number is 986.561.597.00 (about $1.00 each).

Also, remember those pesky, hard to find foam seals.

Regards, Maurice.

[klueless7571]

Question: Does anyone have the part numbers for the Clamping Rails and the Sliders handy?

Derek

Derek:

The updated slider part numbers are 986 561 669 03 (left side) and 986 561 670 03 (right side). (It seems Porsche has changed the versions of these sliders back and forth, so even though your parts bag may have the "03" version imprinted on it, the actual part may have the "02" part number and it will still be correct. Read this thread if you want the full story: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...c=17537&hl= [posts #8, and 22 to 25]).

The clamping rail part numbers are 986.561.559.01 and 986.561.560.01.

If you lose any of the plastic pins, that part number is 986.561.597.00 (about $1.00 each).

Also, remember those pesky, hard to find foam seals.

Regards, Maurice.

Thanks Maurice!

I just ordered the Robbins glass top today, but they're out of stock on my dark gray colour for another couple of weeks. Can't wait to get going on this project. It's raining again here so I might have to resort to duct tape to keep dry.

Derek

[1schoir]

Thanks Maurice!

I just ordered the Robbins glass top today, but they're out of stock on my dark gray colour for another couple of weeks. Can't wait to get going on this project. It's raining again here so I might have to resort to duct tape to keep dry.

Derek

Derek:

It's a good idea to get all the parts you may need before you start the project. Take a look at the beginning of this thread for suggestions on what you might need.

Make sure you read the DIY on Mike Focke's web site a few times to familiarize yourself with what the project entails. If you do, you are almost guaranteed success.

Another couple of weeks might also actually do you some good. It's easier to work with the canvas when the weather is a little warmer and the sun is beating down on it.

If you run into any roadblocks, don't hesitate to ask for help on this board.

Regards, Maurice.

[klueless7571]

Maurice:

I took the top off last night. Tonight, I spent 2 hours just cleaning up the glue from the 2 sided tape. Man, that stuff sticks.

Anyhow, I just wanted to point out that my original top and setup are slightly different from the description in Mike Focke's writeup. Specifically, the middle bar (2nd from the front) plastic cover does not have a metal clip holding it down. Instead, it simply snaps into place. I had a hell of a time removing it and managed to break off a small corner on the cover plate. No biggie as it'll still perform its intended function. At first I tried to install the new top by not removing this cover plate, but no go. Can't get the back done if the middle of the top is already secured to the cover plate.

Perhaps mine is different because I have an inside liner, as I didn't see any mention of that in the instructions.

Oh, also, the Robbins top doesn't attach at the 3rd rail from the front. It only attaches at the front, the middle cover plate, then at the very back.

Question. Is it easier to do the very back first, then to the clamping rails, or vice versa?

Hope to finish tomorrow night.

Regards

Derek

[John V]

Maurice:

I took the top off last night. Tonight, I spent 2 hours just cleaning up the glue from the 2 sided tape. Man, that stuff sticks.

Anyhow, I just wanted to point out that my original top and setup are slightly different from the description in Mike Focke's writeup. Specifically, the middle bar (2nd from the front) plastic cover does not have a metal clip holding it down. Instead, it simply snaps into place. I had a hell of a time removing it and managed to break off a small corner on the cover plate. No biggie as it'll still perform its intended function. At first I tried to install the new top by not removing this cover plate, but no go. Can't get the back done if the middle of the top is already secured to the cover plate.

Correct. My car (2000 "S") didn't have that metal clip either. The top doesn't "snap" into that plate, though, it slides in as you remove the top from the car. The new top slides in - it's the first thing you do.

Oh, also, the Robbins top doesn't attach at the 3rd rail from the front. It only attaches at the front, the middle cover plate, then at the very back.

Correct. This is how they get away with having a glass rear window!

Question. Is it easier to do the very back first, then to the clamping rails, or vice versa?

I found it easiest to do the rear, then the clamp / sliding pieces on the sides, then the aluminum plates, then the front. But be SURE you get the edges of the top FLUSH with the aluminum plates, where they screw into the top frame. If not, the top will be loose near the front corners.

Good luck.

[klueless7571]

Thanks John.

I am almost finished. Got everything done except I still need to tape down the rear, then hook up the electrical defroster.

Derek

[John V]

Thanks John.

I am almost finished. Got everything done except I still need to tape down the rear, then hook up the electrical defroster.

Derek

One last thing, Derek, be careful with those defroster tabs! One of mine popped off when I slid the defroster cable onto it. I had to buy some conductive adhesive to reattach it to the defroster.

[1schoir]

Maurice:

I took the top off last night. Tonight, I spent 2 hours just cleaning up the glue from the 2 sided tape. Man, that stuff sticks.

Anyhow, I just wanted to point out that my original top and setup are slightly different from the description in Mike Focke's writeup. Specifically, the middle bar (2nd from the front) plastic cover does not have a metal clip holding it down. Instead, it simply snaps into place. I had a hell of a time removing it and managed to break off a small corner on the cover plate. No biggie as it'll still perform its intended function. At first I tried to install the new top by not removing this cover plate, but no go. Can't get the back done if the middle of the top is already secured to the cover plate.

Perhaps mine is different because I have an inside liner, as I didn't see any mention of that in the instructions.

Oh, also, the Robbins top doesn't attach at the 3rd rail from the front. It only attaches at the front, the middle cover plate, then at the very back.

Question. Is it easier to do the very back first, then to the clamping rails, or vice versa?

Hope to finish tomorrow night.

Regards

Derek

Derek:

I know it's no fun cleaning off the tape residue, but believe me, it will all be well worth it when you are done.

Thanks for pointing out some of the differences with the Robbins Top and with the tops that have liners. I will let Mike Focke know, and maybe we'll put in an addendum using some of your notes, if you have no objection.

As far as whether to do the very back first or the clamping rails, I think it's better to assemble the clamping rails and attach them to the B-Pillar base first. Doing that step before the very back will give you a better idea of how smooth the sides of the top (behind the B-Pillar) and the rear of the top (under the window) will be as you are inserting the gaskets into the three channels.

Regards, Maurice.

[klueless7571]

I am done. Hooray. But the top won't close. Looks to be 3" short. Tried my best to pull it down but no go. Otherwise it looks great. No bunching up or anything. I'll give it another shot when I get home tonight.

A big thanks to you Maurice and everyone on this forum. Great info here. This is my biggest DIY project yet.

Derek

[John V]

I am done. Hooray. But the top won't close. Looks to be 3" short. Tried my best to pull it down but no go. Otherwise it looks great. No bunching up or anything. I'll give it another shot when I get home tonight.

A big thanks to you Maurice and everyone on this forum. Great info here. This is my biggest DIY project yet.

Derek

We did it in the sun and still needed a couple guys to push down and forward on the outside while I got the hook engaged. Once it's up, leave it up for a few days to stretch.

[1schoir]

I am done. Hooray. But the top won't close. Looks to be 3" short. Tried my best to pull it down but no go. Otherwise it looks great. No bunching up or anything. I'll give it another shot when I get home tonight.

A big thanks to you Maurice and everyone on this forum. Great info here. This is my biggest DIY project yet.

Derek

Derek:

You are most welcome, and that's what this board is all about! Congrats on getting it done.

The canvas will stretch into place. Put the car out in the sun for a few hours, and once you get it closed, leave it that way for a few days and it will get easier and easier.

Once again, give yourself a big pat on the back for persevering and getting it done right. I'm sure it gave your car a "facelift".

Regards, Maurice.

[Paul_B]

...

Robbins top does not have 4 holes for Phillips screws. Would I have problem with installing without these holes?

Sean:

I forgot to stress the importance of making and locating those 4 holes for the Pillips screws on each side.

Use the old top as a template so that you can mark and make the holes in the EXACT location onto the new top.

...

Silly question time, but do you need anything fancy to make these holes in the canvas or will a sharp point suffice?

I have a spangly new Robbins top ready and waiting fitment :D but want to be confident that I have all the parts and tools I'm likely to need before I start dismantling my car :unsure: ..

Paul

[1schoir]

...

Robbins top does not have 4 holes for Phillips screws. Would I have problem with installing without these holes?

Sean:

I forgot to stress the importance of making and locating those 4 holes for the Pillips screws on each side.

Use the old top as a template so that you can mark and make the holes in the EXACT location onto the new top.

...

Silly question time, but do you need anything fancy to make these holes in the canvas or will a sharp point suffice?

I have a spangly new Robbins top ready and waiting fitment :D but want to be confident that I have all the parts and tools I'm likely to need before I start dismantling my car :unsure: ..

Paul

Paul:

A sharp point will suffice, but you can make excellent holes in the canvas material with one of those tools that shoemakers use to punch holes in leather belts. If you are so inclined, you can pick up one of those tools at a hobby or craft store.

Regards, Maurice.

[rmahawaii]

Has anyone tried the Gahh Boxster Glass Top before? Is it any better or worst than the Robin's?

[ericinca]

Guys, I'm taking apart the top now to replace it with a top from GAHH. I'm having a lot of trouble pulling out the pins for the clamping rails and slider. Are they supposed to come out easily? I used long-nose pliers but they seem very stuck in there. All I'm doing so far is destroying the pin. :(

Any advice is much appreciated.

Eric

[1schoir]

Guys, I'm taking apart the top now to replace it with a top from GAHH. I'm having a lot of trouble pulling out the pins for the clamping rails and slider. Are they supposed to come out easily? I used long-nose pliers but they seem very stuck in there. All I'm doing so far is destroying the pin. :(

Any advice is much appreciated.

Eric

Eric:

If you are referring to the little black plastic pins, those are supposed to come out with very little pulling. Sometimes installers or service departments glue those in because they can occasionally pop out by themselves. Use a plastic body trim spoon with a V on the end if they are offering a lot of resistance.

If you are referring to undoing the clamping rail "mushrooms" from the sliders, that is another story.

It's difficult to disassemble the clamping rails from the sliders because the "mushrooms" can become brittle over time. One good way to get them off intact is to press an appropriately sized 1/4" drive socket over the mushroom part after you have pulled off the plastic pin. I have forgotten what size the socket should be but I remember it was small, maybe 6mm or 8mm. The small socket will press the four legs of the mushroom head together and you can then take everything apart without damaging the clamping rails.

Regards, Maurice.

[ericinca]

Maurice,

Thanks so much for your insights.

Those pins were definitely tight in there! After thinking a bit about what I could do, I decided to spray some WD40 onto the pins to see if they would loosen them. That did the trick! I still had to use the pliers to wiggle each pin in all directions before they would come loose. After I heard a "snap" sound while wiggling, the pins would become unstuck and pull right now. (Not that I actually know, but I felt like a dentist pulling teeth.)

I'm not sure what caused the assembly to be so tight. Upon inspecting the pins after they were out, I didn't see anything out of the ordinary. Perhaps it was years of being fastened together which caused the parts to stick.

In any case, I'm glad I got them out, and the top is off! And this forum has been a tremendous help so far!

Eric

[1schoir]

Maurice,

Thanks so much for your insights.

Those pins were definitely tight in there! After thinking a bit about what I could do, I decided to spray some WD40 onto the pins to see if they would loosen them. That did the trick! I still had to use the pliers to wiggle each pin in all directions before they would come loose. After I heard a "snap" sound while wiggling, the pins would become unstuck and pull right now. (Not that I actually know, but I felt like a dentist pulling teeth.)

I'm not sure what caused the assembly to be so tight. Upon inspecting the pins after they were out, I didn't see anything out of the ordinary. Perhaps it was years of being fastened together which caused the parts to stick.

In any case, I'm glad I got them out, and the top is off! And this forum has been a tremendous help so far!

Eric

Eric:

Good work!

If you haven't already looked at this set of DIY instructions, you should, as it contains a lot of information to help with some of the finer points of getting a perfect install: http://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/replacingthetop-adiy

Regards, Maurice.

[ericinca]

Thanks Maurice. That article is a godsend!

One question as I install the new top... I noticed during disassembly (and was mentioned in the article) that there was heat shrink tubing around the spring and cable that I removed.

I didn't see mention in the article of redoing the tubing when installing the new top. The only reason I could see doing it is that the spring and cable might bang against the aluminum plate and cause clanking noise during driving. Is it necessary to redo the heat shrink tubing?

Eric

[1schoir]

Thanks Maurice. That article is a godsend!

One question as I install the new top... I noticed during disassembly (and was mentioned in the article) that there was heat shrink tubing around the spring and cable that I removed.

I didn't see mention in the article of redoing the tubing when installing the new top. The only reason I could see doing it is that the spring and cable might bang against the aluminum plate and cause clanking noise during driving. Is it necessary to redo the heat shrink tubing?

Eric

Eric:

Definitely a good idea to redo the heat shrink tubing. If not, you will get a creaking noise every time the top goes up and down.

It was not added into the article because I had a new OEM top that already had cables attached when I wrote that part up.

Remember... Don't cut any corners and when you are finished and step back to look at your handiwork for the first time, you will think you just got a new car!

Regards, Maurice.

[ericinca]

Thanks Maurice. That article is a godsend!

One question as I install the new top... I noticed during disassembly (and was mentioned in the article) that there was heat shrink tubing around the spring and cable that I removed.

I didn't see mention in the article of redoing the tubing when installing the new top. The only reason I could see doing it is that the spring and cable might bang against the aluminum plate and cause clanking noise during driving. Is it necessary to redo the heat shrink tubing?

Eric

Eric:

Definitely a good idea to redo the heat shrink tubing. If not, you will get a creaking noise every time the top goes up and down.

It was not added into the article because I had a new OEM top that already had cables attached when I wrote that part up.

Remember... Don't cut any corners and when you are finished and step back to look at your handiwork for the first time, you will think you just got a new car!

Regards, Maurice.

Thanks Maurice. Your experience with the top installation is very helpful to the rest of us!

Eric