Rear Spoiler not operating correctly

[The Dangerman]

Hi, I hope someone maybe able to help with this strange problem with the spoiler. The car is a 97 UK RHD Manual 2.5 Boxster.

A few days ago I noticed that the rear spoiler wasn't sat flush with the body, nothing dramatic, just maybe half an inch or so on the left side (looking towards the front). I genty pushed it and it sat flush.

Next time I took it out for a spin the spoiler warning light came on when I reached 75mph and stayed on, which I believe is trying to tell me the spoiler hasn't raised. That brings me onto my next problem - it has raised because it doesn't go back down again! After playing about with the manual button I eventually got it to go down but only after several turn off/turn on cycles.

If anyone can help me I need to know

-why it's telling me the spoiler hasn't raised when it has

-why it doesn't go back down

-why it works only intermittantly on the footwell switch (it wouldn't work at all this morning, it's still up)

Right now if I press raise I can here a click, but pressing lower I hear nothing. I tried gently pulling/pushing it by hand and hear a click or something and for two days after it worked normally. Now it's gone faulty again.

There is nothing I can see physically obstructing it.

Many thanks, hope somebody can help. I will check out the relays (currently at work) although the limit to my ability will be taking them out, cleaning the contacts and giving them a bit of a tap!!

Cheers.

[The Dangerman]

It was the spoiler motor not having enough power, apparently. The garage is fitting a second hand one, they say part will cost £60-£80 plus fitting. Hate to think what a new one is then!!

[1schoir]

It was the spoiler motor not having enough power, apparently. The garage is fitting a second hand one, they say part will cost £60-£80 plus fitting. Hate to think what a new one is then!!

Dangerman:

The list price on a new electric motor is $187.00 (part # 99662415100). I think you can get one from Sunset Imports for about 15% less, but I don't know what the situation would be with shipping & duty, etc.

Regards, Maurice.

[pk2]

It was the spoiler motor not having enough power, apparently. The garage is fitting a second hand one, they say part will cost £60-£80 plus fitting. Hate to think what a new one is then!!

I'd be interested in how that works out, I have the same problem. Mine was unpredictable sometimes, worked fine other times, finally got stuck, up.

Please let us know how it works out. That motor I believe just reverses polarity to go back down. IF it went up without much of a fuss, weird that it won't go back down unless theres a break in the down circuit.

Regards, PK

[The Dangerman]

Thanks Maurice. I wouldn't be suprised though if the UK price in £ sterling was not much less than it is in dollars! We always seem to get ripped off over here!!

PK - Does sound wierd doesn't it? Very similiar problem I think - they said they could "get it to work" but not reliably. The garage also said though that it will probably cost more in labour to try and find the fault with the motor than it would be to just fit a working second hand one. So I guess we will never know!

[pk2]

PK - Does sound wierd doesn't it? Very similiar problem I think - they said they could "get it to work" but not reliably. The garage also said though that it will probably cost more in labour to try and find the fault with the motor than it would be to just fit a working second hand one. So I guess we will never know!

Ya it does sound weird. 2 of 3 relays are right back there in the trunk. Mine both click, up and down, I also cleaned up their insides. The only other reasonable variables (short of the motor) would be the speed sensor and an I assume a micro-switch(s)... up and down stops.

If they have verified it's the motor, strange but true. If it's not of course, you still have the underlying problem. My wiring diagrams show four wires coming of the motor. 2 are indicator for the dash light and 2 are power.

My cars wiring and the diagram have little obvious in common at first blush. With my top motor it was really easy to run the motor either way to verify if it works with a battery charger. I'm going to break it out and try to see whats going see what there is to see.

Regards, PK

[pk2]

I will check out the relays (currently at work) although the limit to my ability will be taking them out, cleaning the contacts and giving them a bit of a tap!!

Cheers.

I've just put my spoiler down... & up & down etc. THe polarity is indeed just reversed for up or down. Did it with a 12v jump so I know my motors not bad. (Subsequent testing shows the problems upstream from the rear relays too). If you want to try yourself, heres how:

1) You'll need 2 wires, 12v+ and a ground. Battery charger is pretty fool proof source of 12v, but if your handy and lazy you can tap into the relay board back there.

2) Pull the back most carpet panel in the trunk forward (right in front of the spoiler mech.held in by a few plastic fasteners.)

3) Reach down in the middle and you'll find a 7 odd wire piggy back plug thing, pull it out and unplug the ends from each other (hint the latch fingers are counterintuitive)

4) You want the plug that goes back and under the center of the mechanism. From left to right, 1st and 3rd wires run the motor, blue/green & yellow/green respectively.

5) Hold the ground in place on one of the 2 terminals (doesn't matter which )and carefully stab your 12v+ at the other If it doesn't go down reverse them and try again. If it goes down your motors ok (you can put it up again by reversing the leads.

Hope that helps, might save you the price of a motor.

Regards, PK

Edited February 24, 2008 by pk2

[The Dangerman]

Thanks for the assistance PK, but I'm afraid I had already commited to the work being done at the garage. Should be picking it up tomorrow. The garage said they have got it working perfectly in the work shop but need to road test it.

Hopefully it has cured the problem and not just a symptom of an underlying issue, but only time will tell. Quite reasonable labour rate at a Porsche specialist so touch wood it won't be as expensive as I first thought.

Thanks again.

[pk2]

Thanks for the assistance PK, but I'm afraid I had already commited to the work being done at the garage. Should be picking it up tomorrow. The garage said they have got it working perfectly in the work shop but need to road test it.

Hopefully it has cured the problem and not just a symptom of an underlying issue, but only time will tell. Quite reasonable labour rate at a Porsche specialist so touch wood it won't be as expensive as I first thought.

Thanks again.

Sounds, like you did well. Mines looking more complex than the motor (which works fine). I know how mine is missbehaving, but I don't know what is causing the problem.

Enjoy and good luck.

PK

[RFM]

pk2

I think in your case that both extensions get stuck in their guides, remove the spoiler upper cover and loose the 2 allen bolts a little so that the extensions can be centered by themselves. Try again till the spoiler works fine, fasten the bolts and retry, repeat when necessary.

[pk2]

pk2

I think in your case that both extensions get stuck in their guides, remove the spoiler upper cover and loose the 2 allen bolts a little so that the extensions can be centered by themselves. Try again till the spoiler works fine, fasten the bolts and retry, repeat when necessary.

Thanks for the reply,

Actually I can make it go up and down just fine by jumping 12 v. straight to the leads off the motor. Heres the kicker, I popped the caps off the relays (and cleaned the contacts) and watched the mechanism work. Than had to jump it to make it go down again. So, I put a DMM on the leads to the motor and worked the up/down switch. Whats happening is this:

1)You when I hit the “up” button and release it, the DMM continues to read 12 v...forever, while the spoiler goes up and while it's up. Pushing the down button does nothing to change that and it will not go down.

2)Turn the car of and back on, constant 12v is gone and the spoiler goes down with the pushand holding of the button. Let off it and the 12v. Stops and so does the 12v. Basically It behaves correctly.

3)Sticky up/down switch? no. I disconnected the 3 leads from the back off the up down switch and jumped the 2 leads to make it go up, by just stabbing it for a second the motor continued all the way up and the the meter continued to read 12 v. No jump wire connected.

Going down the spoiler behaves normally, stab the jumper and the motor & 12 v starts and stops immediately...like it should. Hold the jumper wire and it goes down all the way or untill release the jumper wire.

4)Relays sticks, doubtful; I switched them (up for down). This should have reversed the problem (would go down with a mere “stab” and wouldn't go back up till ig is turned off and then require holding in place)

In addition, with the up triggered and stuck at 12v, the solenoid armature can be pryed open but snap closed right away.

So, (still with me?) somehow , stabbing the up button (or wire) briefly, trips something that continues to supply the 12v to the solenoid and thus the motor, continuously till the key is turned off. Something between the switch, and relays is causing a "latching relay like"problem...weird.

Regards,

PK

[RFM]

The normal process in MANUAL mode is:

Ignition on.

Touch the up button ( not hold ) the spoiler go's up automatically.

You have to hold the down button till the spoiler is completely down, if you release the button the spoiler stops immediately, there is no automatic function programed for the downward movement.

Will the spoiler work this way ?

[pk2]

The normal process in MANUAL mode is:

Ignition on.

Touch the up button ( not hold ) the spoiler go's up automatically.

You have to hold the down button till the spoiler is completely down, if you release the button the spoiler stops immediately, there is no automatic function programed for the downward movement.

Will the spoiler work this way ?

Not sure if your addressing this to me, but thats exactly how mine behaves... sort of (I thought it used to only go up while holding the button). The only catchs then are:

-After the spoiler hits the top of its travel, there is still 12 v , at the solenoid anyway, and it remains tripped or activated. Oddly though, the spoiler motor seem unaffected, I.E. Its not straining, vibrating, groaning etc.

-I have to turn the ignition off and back on again, (at which pont there is no more 12v on the solenoid) to lower the spoiler ( to think I've been driving around town looking like dicky racer for the last month). Thats not right is it?

Input is welcome.

Regards, PK

Edited February 27, 2008 by pk2

[RFM]

PK " I have to turn the ignition off and back on to lower the spoiler " this is not normal, an electric diagram can help you out, a faulty micro switch can give problems as he refuse to cut off.

[pk2]

PK " I have to turn the ignition off and back on to lower the spoiler " this is not normal, an electric diagram can help you out, a faulty micro switch can give problems as he refuse to cut off.

Thanks,

I wouldn't of thought so.

I have poured over the wiring diagrams. One of 2 obvious switches in the circuit seems to be one for the light In the trunk (go figure). According to the diagram thought there are what appears to be two switches illustrated in the same “module” with the motor.

The relays aren't as simple as they might be, they have little resistors on them and wires running back and forth between them, Ive swapped them though and it makes no diff. Same problem.

Guess I'll take the motor out and apart (If I have to), see what those diagrammed switches in the are about.

Thanks for your reply

PK

[Stuart Dallas Smith]

Did you ever sort your spoiler prob ,? Mine is behaving exactly the same