Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Cleaning the MAF is unbelievable

zman1858

By zman1858
in 986 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)

 Share

Recommended Posts

zman1858 Member

zman1858

Posted
Posted

My car was running like crap...spuddering, backfiring, no power....cleaned the MAF...NOW runs like off the showroom. Took me 25 minutes and I have never seen the motor since I have owned it. The only thing is I put a top on with a glass window and it won't go over the rollbar....not much room to work with. That should be fun later for someone.....

White987S Member

White987S

Posted
Posted

zman1858, not to rain on your parade, but the improvement may be short lived. You might still need to replace the MAF. The other issue is why it is getting dirty? Do you have a high flow air filter?

honda_nos Member

honda_nos

Posted
Posted

I also cleaned my MAF last night and too have never opened the engine compartment (only had car less than 4 months). I had no problems with the job and the engine does run way smoother and more powerful. I actually break the backend loose last night (have tried before to no success). I have a 99 Tip.

zman1858, not to rain on your parade, but the improvement may be short lived. You might still need to replace the MAF. The other issue is why it is getting dirty? Do you have a high flow air filter?
honda_nos Member

honda_nos

Posted
Posted

BTW I also have a Robbin's glass top so I had little room to work as well, ended up leaning on the trunk lid most of the time.

I also cleaned my MAF last night and too have never opened the engine compartment (only had car less than 4 months). I had no problems with the job and the engine does run way smoother and more powerful. I actually break the backend loose last night (have tried before to no success). I have a 99 Tip.

zman1858, not to rain on your parade, but the improvement may be short lived. You might still need to replace the MAF. The other issue is why it is getting dirty? Do you have a high flow air filter?

pk2 Member

pk2

Posted
Posted
My car was running like crap...spuddering, backfiring, no power....cleaned the MAF...NOW runs like off the showroom. Took me 25 minutes and I have never seen the motor since I have owned it. The only thing is I put a top on with a glass window and it won't go over the rollbar....not much room to work with. That should be fun later for someone.....

-------------------------------------

What do you use to clean the MAF?

Regards, PK

ronbonner Member

ronbonner

Posted
Posted
My car was running like crap...spuddering, backfiring, no power....cleaned the MAF...NOW runs like off the showroom. Took me 25 minutes and I have never seen the motor since I have owned it. The only thing is I put a top on with a glass window and it won't go over the rollbar....not much room to work with. That should be fun later for someone.....

-------------------------------------

What do you use to clean the MAF?

Regards, PK

I don't know about the other guys but when I have cleaned mine I use electrical contact or switch cleaning fluid. I have sprayed on the fluid and let it do its stuff and let it totally dry off before replacing.

RB

1schoir Member

1schoir

Posted
Posted
My car was running like crap...spuddering, backfiring, no power....cleaned the MAF...NOW runs like off the showroom. Took me 25 minutes and I have never seen the motor since I have owned it. The only thing is I put a top on with a glass window and it won't go over the rollbar....not much room to work with. That should be fun later for someone.....

-------------------------------------

What do you use to clean the MAF?

Regards, PK

Peter:

Chain auto parts stores sell "CRC" brand spray cleaner, which is labeled "Mass Airflow Sensor Cleaner".

It's probably the same formula as some other cleaners which are not specifically labeled for this purpose, but this one is a safe bet.

Regards, Maurice.

pk2 Member

pk2

Posted
Posted
I don't know about the other guys but when I have cleaned mine I use electrical contact or switch cleaning fluid. I have sprayed on the fluid and let it do its stuff and let it totally dry off before replacing.

RB

Hmm Thats interesting...alot of people (Including my dad, a E.E. Phd.) used to use WD40 as a contact cleaner...The plot thickens.

Regards,

PK

pk2 Member

pk2

Posted
Posted
Peter:

Chain auto parts stores sell "CRC" brand spray cleaner, which is labeled "Mass Airflow Sensor Cleaner".

It's probably the same formula as some other cleaners which are not specifically labeled for this purpose, but this one is a safe bet.

Regards, Maurice.

Thanks Maurice,

That common eh. Fortunatly I thinking preventive medicine. From decriptions, I think I'd freak if mine let go.

Regards, PK

  • 3 months later...
JeTexas Member

JeTexas

Posted
Posted
Hmm Thats interesting...alot of people (Including my dad, a E.E. Phd.) used to use WD40 as a contact cleaner...The plot thickens.

Regards,

PK

WD40 is a penetrating oil, which means it's made to clean and remove crud from the nooks and crannies where it gets sprayed.

That's why it's good for helping clean a contact in a rotating cylinder or getting a bolt loose, but not good for long-term lubrication situations.

Since there's no moving parts in the MAF, you don't need the lubrication properties of the WD-40 and are better off just using the electronics cleaner.

1schoir Member

1schoir

Posted
Posted
do you have to disconnect the battery before removing and cleaning the MAF?

There is no need to disconnect the battery before removing and cleaning the MAF. Just make sure you have the proper size SECURITY Torx bit.

Regards, Maurice.

808c4 Member

808c4

Posted
Posted
What is a security torx bit vs a normal torx bit? Sorry for the newb question.
T-20 Security Torx

Bad news concerning using WD40:

Being a long time user/fan of WD40 (use it for almost everything...from cleaning my guns to fixing skeaky door hinges, etc.) I do recommned in todays world of high tech plastics and electronics it's probably best to utilize "CRC" brand spray cleaner, which is labeled "Mass Airflow Sensor Cleaner" becuase it does not harm the rubber or plastic parts of your intake. Unfortunatey WD40 doesn't seem to be the best on rubber pieces in the long run...

Just helpful info for what's its worth.

1schoir Member

1schoir

Posted
Posted
What is a security torx bit vs a normal torx bit? Sorry for the newb question.

If you look closely at the two torx screws that hold down the MAF sensor, you will see that the is a small pin protrusion in the center of each screw which makes it impossible to use a regular Torx bit. The security Torx bit has a hollow in the center that allows you to fully place the bit on the screw.

Regards, Maurice.

Chuck Jones Member

Chuck Jones

Posted
Posted

Zman: I was wondering why it took 25 minutes to clean the MAF....two torx screws and it's out....a quick spray with CRC....wave it around in the air a bit to dry it off since it evaporates almost instantly.....then put it back in. I usually spend about a max of 5-10 minutes. Im NOT knocking your methodology....it just makes it sound a bit more complex than it really is.

Oh and for you folks wondering about the CRC "MAF cleaner"....it's just a newly designed label that is stuck on the same can that used to be labelled simply CRC....great job of psychological marketing by some junior partner who''s now a VP of marketing.

zman1858 Member

zman1858

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Zman: I was wondering why it took 25 minutes to clean the MAF....two torx screws and it's out....a quick spray with CRC....wave it around in the air a bit to dry it off since it evaporates almost instantly.....then put it back in. I usually spend about a max of 5-10 minutes. Im NOT knocking your methodology....it just makes it sound a bit more complex than it really is.

Oh and for you folks wondering about the CRC "MAF cleaner"....it's just a newly designed label that is stuck on the same can that used to be labelled simply CRC....great job of psychological marketing by some junior partner who''s now a VP of marketing.

I have a top with glass window. It doesn't go back very far, which leaves very little work space and it was the first time I ever saw the engine. If I had to do it again, 5 - 10 minutes tops...

00boxster Member

00boxster

Posted
Posted

Just picked up my 2000 Boxster cleaning the MAF sounds easy enough but where is it located?

Zman: I was wondering why it took 25 minutes to clean the MAF....two torx screws and it's out....a quick spray with CRC....wave it around in the air a bit to dry it off since it evaporates almost instantly.....then put it back in. I usually spend about a max of 5-10 minutes. Im NOT knocking your methodology....it just makes it sound a bit more complex than it really is.

Oh and for you folks wondering about the CRC "MAF cleaner"....it's just a newly designed label that is stuck on the same can that used to be labelled simply CRC....great job of psychological marketing by some junior partner who''s now a VP of marketing.

I have a top with glass window. It doesn't go back very far, which leaves very little work space and it was the first time I ever saw the engine. If I had to do it again, 5 - 10 minutes tops...

1schoir Member

1schoir

Posted
Posted
Just picked up my 2000 Boxster cleaning the MAF sounds easy enough but where is it located?

The MAF is located just upstream of the air filter housing. Just take a look at the fat round plastic tube between the air filter housing and the throttle body and you will see it held in place with two Torx (security) screws and an electrical connector pressed in place into it.

After you remove the engine cover, stand on the driver's side of the car, facing the passenger side and just look straight down into that edge of the engine compartment, you can't miss it.

Regards, Maurice.

00boxster Member

00boxster

Posted
Posted
Just picked up my 2000 Boxster cleaning the MAF sounds easy enough but where is it located?

The MAF is located just upstream of the air filter housing. Just take a look at the fat round plastic tube between the air filter housing and the throttle body and you will see it held in place with two Torx (security) screws and an electrical connector pressed in place into it.

After you remove the engine cover, stand on the driver's side of the car, facing the passenger side and just look straight down into that edge of the engine compartment, you can't miss it.

Regards, Maurice.

Does anyone have a pic or step by step directions to get to the MAF. Do you access it from the top where the roof folds into? Hoping to clear the Dura Faults attatched by first cleaning the MAF then later replacing.

post-32525-1215740402_thumb.jpg

Baconaire Member

Baconaire

Posted
Posted

WD40!!???? DON"T DO IT. The WD stands for Water Displacer. It deters rust by displacing water with lubricant. This is the exact opposite of what you are trying to do by cleaning the MAF which is a very fragile eletronic component. Putting a film of WD 40 on the there is BAD. Use the MAF cleaner or contact cleaner. You want it clean and dry with no residue. I would not touch the filament with anything. Hold it by the connector, spray with MAF cleaner, let it drip dry and carefully replace it. It's a $200 part. It is super easy to remove and replace. Just be gentle with it and step away from the WD40!

The MAF and O2 sensors (especially pre-cat) are items that will eventually need replacing. Not often, but they have a direct impact on performacnce and economy as they tell the ECU how much gas to flow.

amegarth Member

amegarth

Posted
Posted
Just picked up my 2000 Boxster cleaning the MAF sounds easy enough but where is it located?

The MAF is located just upstream of the air filter housing. Just take a look at the fat round plastic tube between the air filter housing and the throttle body and you will see it held in place with two Torx (security) screws and an electrical connector pressed in place into it.

After you remove the engine cover, stand on the driver's side of the car, facing the passenger side and just look straight down into that edge of the engine compartment, you can't miss it.

Regards, Maurice.

Does anyone have a pic or step by step directions to get to the MAF. Do you access it from the top where the roof folds into? Hoping to clear the Dura Faults attatched by first cleaning the MAF then later replacing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.