Random Orbital on 996 metallic paint - curves and edges

[vette67]

I've got a bad case of "dandruff" on the front bumper and first 1/3 of my 2000 ocean blue metallic 996. I just put $300 into Griots products including their 6" random orbital. They say that their #3 polish is so lightweight that it is totally safe but Ive heard that you dont want to use an orbital on the edges of your surfaces or on the dramatic curves due to possible burn in.

What is your experience with using good quality tools and polishes on your 996 curves and edges? You know it is hard to find a totally flat surface on our cars. I expect to hand polish the mirror enclosures, rear deck, etc. But is there a problem with clear coat damage using a good quality orbital on the front end, hood, fenders etc? Also, should you avoid the panel edges when polishing with the orbital?

Thanks!

[99C2]

I've got a bad case of "dandruff" on the front bumper and first 1/3 of my 2000 ocean blue metallic 996. I just put $300 into Griots products including their 6" random orbital. They say that their #3 polish is so lightweight that it is totally safe but Ive heard that you dont want to use an orbital on the edges of your surfaces or on the dramatic curves due to possible burn in.

What is your experience with using good quality tools and polishes on your 996 curves and edges? You know it is hard to find a totally flat surface on our cars. I expect to hand polish the mirror enclosures, rear deck, etc. But is there a problem with clear coat damage using a good quality orbital on the front end, hood, fenders etc? Also, should you avoid the panel edges when polishing with the orbital?

Thanks!

vette67:

I am the biggest fan of the Griots products and I have the same set up as you do I'm sure. I have never had an issue dealing with burning and I can tell you first hand and after several uses of the buffer on my 996 that this is totally safe.

If you were using a rotery buffer (1750 rpm) you would in deed cause burning on edges and such. That was my fear too when I was looking for detailing products.

I bought my car used and with Black I had to do a lot of polishing with #3 to get it right. The Best of Show Wax and the Carnuba is just awesome.

I use it on every inch of the car and especially the mirror housing and great relults. I am their BIGGEST fan. I talk to Dave at Griots all the time and have been using just about everything they make for detailing.

This is the best set up for the do it your selfer! I'm sold!

99C2

[rattles]

I've got a bad case of "dandruff" on the front bumper and first 1/3 of my 2000 ocean blue metallic 996. I just put $300 into Griots products including their 6" random orbital. They say that their #3 polish is so lightweight that it is totally safe but Ive heard that you dont want to use an orbital on the edges of your surfaces or on the dramatic curves due to possible burn in.

What is your experience with using good quality tools and polishes on your 996 curves and edges? You know it is hard to find a totally flat surface on our cars. I expect to hand polish the mirror enclosures, rear deck, etc. But is there a problem with clear coat damage using a good quality orbital on the front end, hood, fenders etc? Also, should you avoid the panel edges when polishing with the orbital?

Thanks!

I have been using a random orbital sander on my 99 Ocean Blue 996C2 for about 4 years, absolutely no problems on any part of the car. I clay first then use a cleaner, polish and finally wax, currently using Meguiars products and the results are great. I only use the sander when I can see light swirls, probably three times over the 4 years, in between clay and NXT polish bring it back to a mirror finish. The car has won the 996 class in our club concours wash and polish both times it was entered.

[bmohr]

rattles. I have the same ocean blue metallic C4. I'm new to the self detailing job as far as waxes, clays etc are concerned. Can you give me some more details on how you do your routine? I don't even know what a "clay" or "claybar" is? Much less how or why it's used. Any advice would be great! Thanks

bmohr

[jsmirand]

bmohr,

I'm a newbie in the field of polishing as well, but had fantastic results recently with the purchase of a portal cable polisher.

See my earlier thread: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?a...t&pid=92418

Regards,

John

[bmohr]

thanks for the link john! Your car after detailing looks amazing! Those are the results i'm looking to achieve!

brian

[whs]

rattles. I have the same ocean blue metallic C4. I'm new to the self detailing job as far as waxes, clays etc are concerned. Can you give me some more details on how you do your routine? I don't even know what a "clay" or "claybar" is? Much less how or why it's used. Any advice would be great! Thanks

bmohr

I have the Griots package as well. I love it. If you order the kit that comes with the polisher, clay, speed shine, polish and wax you get a free detailing book and DVD. It tells you how to do everything. It's pretty easy to do, but it does take some time. I enjoy doing it so the time doesn't bother me.

[rattles]

rattles. I have the same ocean blue metallic C4. I'm new to the self detailing job as far as waxes, clays etc are concerned. Can you give me some more details on how you do your routine? I don't even know what a "clay" or "claybar" is? Much less how or why it's used. Any advice would be great! Thanks

bmohr

Try logging on to Autopia Car Care, they have a lot of good step by step instructions.

I start by washing the car with Meguiars NXT Wash, washing can cause a lot of damage if its not done carefully, dirt trapped in the sponge, wash mit or chamois can ruin clearcoat. I have a bucket of carwash Meguiars NXT and another bucket of clean water. I hose off as much loose dirt as possible and then wash the top sections of the bodywork using a washmit, rinsing it after every panel. I have separate sponges for lower body panels and another for wheels. I dry using a microfibre towel, rinsing this after each panel.

Most polish makers sell a claybar kit, I use Meguiars QuikClay, it comes with a bottle of detailing liquid and a claybar, instructions are on the box. The first time you use this you will be amazed at how much stuff comes off your paint work.

Then I use a cleaner with the orbital sander, followed by a polish with the orbital sander and finally hand polish with Meguiars NXT. I dont do this every time I wax the car, just when I can see light swirls or scratches.

When I use the orbital I only use light pressure and usually not at top RPM.

I am sure others will have slightly different methods and use different brands of polish but this system works for me. The important part is not doing more damage each time you wash the car by rubbing dirt into the clearcoat. After washing use light pressure with the orbital sander and the minimum amount of polishing to achieve the result you want.

Hope this helps, post some photos so we can see the final result.

Glenn

[whs]

rattles. I have the same ocean blue metallic C4. I'm new to the self detailing job as far as waxes, clays etc are concerned. Can you give me some more details on how you do your routine? I don't even know what a "clay" or "claybar" is? Much less how or why it's used. Any advice would be great! Thanks

bmohr

Try logging on to Autopia Car Care, they have a lot of good step by step instructions.

I start by washing the car with Meguiars NXT Wash, washing can cause a lot of damage if its not done carefully, dirt trapped in the sponge, wash mit or chamois can ruin clearcoat. I have a bucket of carwash Meguiars NXT and another bucket of clean water. I hose off as much loose dirt as possible and then wash the top sections of the bodywork using a washmit, rinsing it after every panel. I have separate sponges for lower body panels and another for wheels. I dry using a microfibre towel, rinsing this after each panel.

Most polish makers sell a claybar kit, I use Meguiars QuikClay, it comes with a bottle of detailing liquid and a claybar, instructions are on the box. The first time you use this you will be amazed at how much stuff comes off your paint work.

Then I use a cleaner with the orbital sander, followed by a polish with the orbital sander and finally hand polish with Meguiars NXT. I dont do this every time I wax the car, just when I can see light swirls or scratches.

When I use the orbital I only use light pressure and usually not at top RPM.

I am sure others will have slightly different methods and use different brands of polish but this system works for me. The important part is not doing more damage each time you wash the car by rubbing dirt into the clearcoat. After washing use light pressure with the orbital sander and the minimum amount of polishing to achieve the result you want.

Hope this helps, post some photos so we can see the final result.

Glenn

One more VERY important note. If you should happen to drop the clay on the ground, throw it away and get a new piece. The clay will get little pieces of dirt/sand in it that you may not even be able to feel that will ruin your paint. Good luck.

Will

[Westcoaster]

One trick to try when preping your paint with one of the more aggressive grades of polish is to use the 'green painters' tape to protect any exposed edges that the polisher could catch on or be overly worked buy the polishing. This tape can be easily removed and does not leave behind glue residue. Also remember not to apply the tape to a hot surface or use in direct sunlight, but the again you should not be polishing the paint in direct sun any way, right!

Remember paint has a rendency to flow away from high points or sharp edges so these are most vunerable. Once you have moved to the finishing grades of polish and wax remove the tape and carry on, this will help blend in the areas that were previously protected by the tape.

[bmohr]

will post pics tomorrow..but followed all the great advice..clay bar and Meguires NXT next generation wax 2.0 and I'm extremely happy with the results! Thanks for all the advice!!

Bmohr

[gandrade1]

will post pics tomorrow..but followed all the great advice..clay bar and Meguires NXT next generation wax 2.0 and I'm extremely happy with the results! Thanks for all the advice!!

Bmohr

Just got the Meguiars claybar...but read a posting somewhere here that totaly discourages the use of claybars.

Is it safe or can I damage my car? It will be my first detail job - in order:

- Through wash with Meguiar's shampoo;

- Claybar with Quik Detailing (both from Meguiars);

- Meguiar's Swirl Remover (applied manually, since I have no machine)

- Wash again

- Zaino ZAIO

- Zaino Z-5 (not sure if the number is right here, but I have it home)

Is this a good routine? I have a black 01 Boxster and it shows some swirl marks

Best,

Gus

Edited May 2, 2008 by gandrade1

[Q-Ship986]

I don't know what post you read or what the negative(s) alleged regarding using the clay bar, but I have no problems using it myself. Heed the advice about immediately disposing of any clay dropped on the ground or otherwise potentially contaminated. The stuff is relatively cheap, so additional advice from me is to not to try to extend its use; considering the time/effort you will put in, using fresh clay is a small price. Also use fresh rags to wife the surface clean. I doubt you'll regret the results from the plan you outline. --Brian

[gandrade1]

I don't know what post you read or what the negative(s) alleged regarding using the clay bar, but I have no problems using it myself. Heed the advice about immediately disposing of any clay dropped on the ground or otherwise potentially contaminated. The stuff is relatively cheap, so additional advice from me is to not to try to extend its use; considering the time/effort you will put in, using fresh clay is a small price. Also use fresh rags to wife the surface clean. I doubt you'll regret the results from the plan you outline. --Brian

Thanks, Q-Ship986

I will stick to the plan

This is the posting I was talking about Visit Paint Restorer...9th comment top to bottom.

Best,

Gus

[Q-Ship986]

I think the comments in the carcareonline link are more or less correct. Regardless of your methodology--whether you use clay, glaze, polish, 2500-grit sandpaper, whatever--you will in effect remove microns of good paint/clearcoat along with the surface blemishes, contaminants, etc. that are your real target. Use the least abrasive means to an end. My cars are all daily drivers and their paint picks up all kinds of Northeast Ohio environmental and operational fallout. I like Meguiar's mild detailing clay, used before their machine glaze #3 or hand glaze #7 as necessary. I am convinced these products are worth the time and expense to use because in my experience they clearly improve the appearance of the paint and help the wax last much, much longer (up to a year, in my case). --Brian

Edited May 3, 2008 by Q-Ship986

[whs]

I don't know what post you read or what the negative(s) alleged regarding using the clay bar, but I have no problems using it myself. Heed the advice about immediately disposing of any clay dropped on the ground or otherwise potentially contaminated. The stuff is relatively cheap, so additional advice from me is to not to try to extend its use; considering the time/effort you will put in, using fresh clay is a small price. Also use fresh rags to wife the surface clean. I doubt you'll regret the results from the plan you outline. --Brian

Thanks, Q-Ship986

I will stick to the plan

This is the posting I was talking about Visit Paint Restorer...9th comment top to bottom.

Best,

Gus

As it relates to clay, I have seen collectors with multi milloion dollar collections use clay on their cars. Let's be real, this isn't something you do on a monthly basis. If you use a high quality clay once a year, I don't think you have a problem. That being said, I wouldn't use clay or a polish more often than is really needed.

Will

[Chuck Jones]

I think what they were trying to warn about is that regardless of the "polish", "paint enhancer", "cleaner compound", "fine grade of clay", or whatever else they choose to call it.....all of the products actually contain some degree of an abrasive....after all, that's how you polish a product....you bring out the shine by buffing the surface with a fine grade of some sort of abrasive which removes the oxidant and brings out the luster. I think the answer was already stated somewhere above.....don't overdo it....don't overuse the clay or swirl buster more than necessary....because eventually, you will cut thru the paint....even if it's in very minute amounts. Common sense and caution are the key elements here. Also, any corners, edges, convex or concave portions of the car are more prone to being polished more intensly than a flat surface...so ease up on your edges. Also, the use of the painter's tape is a must. It keeps your rubber and that fuzzy compound around the edge of your sunroof from becoming white and caked with the polish. Take some time and tape off your rubber and plastic that's in the way of your waxing and polishing.

Edited May 3, 2008 by Chuck Jones

[chanda]

I'm a noob to self-polishing job too,

I got Mothers 3 steps shining product:

1. Pre-wax cleaner - is it the same as swirl remover?

2. Sealer and Glazer - That's the finishing polish, right?

3. Wax

And I should use #1 with some cutting power foam pads and #2 with min. or no cutting power foam pads?

Thanks ^_^

[Jon996]

Hi! I just used the Griot's kit with a RO for the first time on my clear-coat metallic Orient Red 996. Worked super, using the #3 polish. One extra splurge I would suggest if you are interested, is also purchasing their "mini" random orbital (3" pads). It was great on some of the sharper curves as well as other small areas. Very nice to use! I even touched up a couple clear-coat scratches on my wheels.

PS: Based on recommendations from those with more experience than I have, I masked off the rubber moldings and the fabric around the sunroof with blue masking tape before polishing.