Rip Off?

[flyboyshell]

Ok, can anyone give me their opinion concerning the attached quote? I purchased my Porsche in Oct 2006 with 51K. It currently just has over 60K on the clock. Since I first got it I have noticed that the suspension has gotten worse, they CEL engine keeps on coming on and my ignition switch seems to be acting up, or so I think. When I spoke to the mechanic about the starting problem, he basically said that it is not always the ignition switch that is causing the starting problem. Sometimes I have to hold the key in the start position until it finally turns. Sometimes it starts after 2 seconds, sometimes after 30 seconds, and sometimes longer. Apparently the immobilizer is the key culprit. Has anyone ever heard of this before?

Also, after time I noticed that the front end would vibrate a lot and the steering shock viciously when in a slight turn between a certain speeds. Now I would never expect the following problems with a vehicle with 60K, unless I am so wrong about Porsche. Then another problem arose when my oil light would flash intermittently when at idle and a screeching sound would come from the engine area. I took it to the mechanic and take a look at the attachment to see what I was slapped with.

Has anyone had this much luck with 60K on the clock?

[Loren]

I think you need a second opinion (quote)... that looks way high to me.

[1schoir]

Ok, can anyone give me their opinion concerning the attached quote? I purchased my Porsche in Oct 2006 with 51K. It currently just has over 60K on the clock. Since I first got it I have noticed that the suspension has gotten worse, they CEL engine keeps on coming on and my ignition switch seems to be acting up, or so I think. When I spoke to the mechanic about the starting problem, he basically said that it is not always the ignition switch that is causing the starting problem. Sometimes I have to hold the key in the start position until it finally turns. Sometimes it starts after 2 seconds, sometimes after 30 seconds, and sometimes longer. Apparently the immobilizer is the key culprit. Has anyone ever heard of this before?

Also, after time I noticed that the front end would vibrate a lot and the steering shock viciously when in a slight turn between a certain speeds. Now I would never expect the following problems with a vehicle with 60K, unless I am so wrong about Porsche. Then another problem arose when my oil light would flash intermittently when at idle and a screeching sound would come from the engine area. I took it to the mechanic and take a look at the attachment to see what I was slapped with.

Has anyone had this much luck with 60K on the clock?

Why aren't the parts listed and the cost of the parts spelled out separately?

Regards, Maurice.

[phillipj]

Go to another shop. That is way out of line

Phillipj

[seafeye]

Go to another shop. That is way out of line

Phillipj

Sounds like some fun diy repairs to make...

For the sway bars...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/EIBACH-Anti...Q2em118Q2el1247

Ignition swith has been covered many times and easy 10min fix...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Porsche-996...tem370016879232

Steering control arm...Should be somewhat simple fix...

http://www.sunsetimports.com/porscheatcost.php

I remember a great quote...:"Give someone fish you feed them for lunch....Teach them to fish and you feed them for life"

Do it yourself and save $$$

[rsfeller]

First, I've had my 1997 with 60K miles for about 1.5 years and will all used cars I buy I expect to pay $1000 in repairs for somebody else problems the day I take delivery. Considering it's a Prorsche multiply that by 3x. Unless you knew the specfic history you really don't know if this guy drove the car hard or like a jack ***.

Now you mention some common failure issues.

1. The ignition tumblers are very common to fail. Search the website. We've all done it and many before 60K

2. Expect the horn system to fail to...

3. The suspension can get sloppy and rattle. It's a sports car and the bushing go first like many others. Simple and cheap fix for a DIY.

4. Expect the SRS errors to there is a common failure and buliten.

4. Suspect tire issues if you have vibrations in the steering wheel. That has been the case in the my 5 cars that I expected the worst.

You need to get your car to ground zero and your level of happiness before you can be concerned with quality or a lemon. Lastly buy the durametric software for $250 so you can pull your own codes and save big money on simple things like the DME and SRS.

I am a DIY guy and once I spent $1000 and got my car to my standard I have not had one issue in a year worth being concerned about.

Shawn

Ohio

[flyboyshell]

Thanks guys! Let me do some searching to see what I can say.

[flyboyshell]

Has anyone heard of the immobilizer unit to cause the starting problems? I have replaced the ignition switch several times and I still get the same problem when starting the car. It seems that I have to hold the key in start for several seconds before the engine turns. Has anyone experienced this before or heard of the immobilizer causing this problem?

[1schoir]

Has anyone heard of the immobilizer unit to cause the starting problems? I have replaced the ignition switch several times and I still get the same problem when starting the car. It seems that I have to hold the key in start for several seconds before the engine turns. Has anyone experienced this before or heard of the immobilizer causing this problem?

Sheldon:

There is a definitely a relationship between the immobilizer and starting, but it's usually an all or nothing proposition (i.e., if the immobilizer is flooded by water, damaged or the fuse in the back of it is blown the car won't start at all) .

IIRC, Tool Pants posted a thread that dealt with this issue. If I find it, I will post a link to it.

Regards, Maurice.

[flyboyshell]

Maurice,

I would have to agree with you. However, I cannot pindown the actualy reasons why I have intermittent starting problems. If you

do find the link, I would appreciate the read.

Thanks.

[1schoir]

Maurice,

I would have to agree with you. However, I cannot pindown the actualy reasons why I have intermittent starting problems. If you

do find the link, I would appreciate the read.

Thanks.

Sheldon:

Here are two links where Tool Pants and Loren discuss the immobilizer:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...hl=control+unit

and

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...p;hl=under+seat

You should get some good info from them as to what is involved in replacing it, etc... If I run across any others, I'll post them here.

Good Luck!

Regards, Maurice.

[flyboyshell]

Thanks again Maurice!

I am curious though! Everything else electronically works just fine in my car except the starting. I cannot imagine that the immobilizer would be the culprit for not starting the car on the first turn. I am at a loss; I don't want to go spend more cash on a new immobilizer when it turns out to be just the ignition system. I am seriously confused. I mean, when I put the key in, everything comes on as normal, it's just when I turn the key to start it. Sometimes it takes a couple of seconds, sometimes it takes 20 seconds. The car turns off and the key can be removed without it getting stuck, etc. Everything works just fine except when trying to start it. :angry:

[RFM]

Are you sure that the wiring on the starter motor connection is in good shape? Negative cable from engine to body in good shape? I should start in revers order to pinpoint the problem in your case, beginning with the starter motor connection-wiring to relais/controlbox-wiring to switches, etc. Perhaps Loren can help you out with a electric diagram ( ground plan )

[Loren]

MY00 Boxster chassis ground points

[juniinc]

wiring on the starter is probably Ok? since it sounds like starter motor is cranking fine,,,

[RFM]

The wiring on the starter motor ( nuts ) can come loose, especially the smallest.

[1schoir]

Thanks again Maurice!

I am curious though! Everything else electronically works just fine in my car except the starting. I cannot imagine that the immobilizer would be the culprit for not starting the car on the first turn. I am at a loss; I don't want to go spend more cash on a new immobilizer when it turns out to be just the ignition system. I am seriously confused. I mean, when I put the key in, everything comes on as normal, it's just when I turn the key to start it. Sometimes it takes a couple of seconds, sometimes it takes 20 seconds. The car turns off and the key can be removed without it getting stuck, etc. Everything works just fine except when trying to start it. :angry:

Sheldon:

Replacing the immobilizer would certainly not be the first thing I would do. As I said, if the immoblizer was faulty it is usually an all or none proposition.

The ground points and the connections to the starter, as RFM and others here have suggested sound like the best place to start.

There were a few other instances described on this board by Peter ("pk2") and others where their car wouldn't start, and some finally traced it down to bad grounds, loose connections, or bad ignition switch. Here is a link to one of those threads:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...c=16684&hl=

Take a look at post #13 by "shihman" his problem sounds exactly like yours. Maybe shoot him a PM to see how he resolved it.

Regards, Maurice.

[jlow]

Check the clutch pedal interlock switch. It is located on the clutch pedal arm. When the clutch pedal is fully depressed the switch closes and completes the circuit so the starter will crank. You can remove the two wires and short them out to see if this resolves your starting problem. Remember to disengage the gear and have it in neutral before trying to start it with it shorted.

[Chris_in_NH]

Check the clutch pedal interlock switch. It is located on the clutch pedal arm. When the clutch pedal is fully depressed the switch closes and completes the circuit so the starter will crank. You can remove the two wires and short them out to see if this resolves your starting problem. Remember to disengage the gear and have it in neutral before trying to start it with it shorted.

i second this suggestion. when i read about the starting problem, that's the first thing i thought of.

[chuck]

Has anyone heard of the immobilizer unit to cause the starting problems? I have replaced the ignition switch several times and I still get the same problem when starting the car. It seems that I have to hold the key in start for several seconds before the engine turns. Has anyone experienced this before or heard of the immobilizer causing this problem?

I replaced my ignition a couple of times using E-Bay specials after having similar starting problems. I finally bought an OEM Audi switch and it has been fine for a year and a half. The switchs I bought on E-Bay were either unmarked or just had the part number but no Audi logo.

[flyboyshell]

Ok, so I decided to get under the dash and disconnect the clutch switch and bypass it to see if this indeed could be the problem. :D It was, she starts with every turn and no delays. I love it.

Loren, do you know the part # of the clutch switch that I need to replace? I have not yet removed it and just want to make sure I order the correct switch before i start messing around with it. All I know is that it is grey.

[Loren]

Does your switch look like the one in this post? (more shape than color)

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...st&p=101751

[flyboyshell]

Does your switch look like the one in this post? (more shape than color)

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...st&p=101751

Yes, sure does. The switch that the two wires plug into.

[Loren]

997.613.109.00 switch -- US MSRP $22.98