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Posted (edited)

Hello all,

As I am new to Renntech I am not sure if this topic has been an issue for anyone or has been covered already.

Recently I had a problem clearing misted windows on my '98 C2, without having the aircon switched on. I was convinced there was a leak in the heater matrix as the windows would mist-up completely and very quickly without the air on. It didn't even have to be particularly cold outside. After a short conversation with a kind Technician in Edinburgh he suggested that the pollen filter may be old and restricting the air flow. I was a little sceptical but changed it anyway. Surprisingly the problem cleared up (sorry, nice pun ;) ) straight away and now I don't have to have the aircon on permanently. Problem solved and my conscience is very slightly clearer now that I use slightly less fuel than before!!

Hope this is useful info to somebody

Nic.

Edited by nic996
Posted
Hello all,

As I am new to Renntech I am not sure if this topic has been an issue for anyone or has been covered already.

Recently I had a problem clearing misted windows on my '98 C2, without having the aircon switched on. I was convinced there was a leak in the heater matrix as the windows would mist-up completely and very quickly without the air on. It didn't even have to be particularly cold outside. After a short conversation with a kind Technician in Edinburgh he suggested that the pollen filter may be old and restricting the air flow. I was a little sceptical but changed it anyway. Surprisingly the problem cleared up (sorry, nice pun ;) ) straight away and now I don't have to have the aircon on permanently. Problem solved and my conscience is very slightly clearer now that I use slightly less fuel than before!!

Hope this is useful info to somebody

Nic.

Thanks for sharing!

Regards, Maurice.

Posted

Hmm,,, Not sure that this is all of it.

I would suggest that, when the Humidity is HIGH you will get steamed up windows easier compared with when there is a LOW humidity %. I have learned to drive with the A/C on at all times during the winter. It's not only the windows that might steam up... When you have a HIGH Humidity level in your car , there is a chance that your interior starts deteriorating or "smelling" when the water dries out naturally.... like a slow Hurricane Katrina situation :-)

Just a thought!

C2 1999 62K miles

Posted

Strangely enough I had the same experience after changing the pollen filter, but I never thought about it until now. I have no explanation why this would be but... can't deny that the window fogging problem is gone - strange!

Posted
Hmm,,, Not sure that this is all of it.

I would suggest that, when the Humidity is HIGH you will get steamed up windows easier compared with when there is a LOW humidity %. I have learned to drive with the A/C on at all times during the winter. It's not only the windows that might steam up... When you have a HIGH Humidity level in your car , there is a chance that your interior starts deteriorating or "smelling" when the water dries out naturally.... like a slow Hurricane Katrina situation :-)

Just a thought!

C2 1999 62K miles

A good and valid point however in my case the humidity in Germany is very low and particularly in winter. That said it may be wise to use the AC from time to time throughout the winter anyway as it keeps the AC system from deteriorating.

Posted

My 1999 996 often has completely misted windows on the inside when I get into it of a morning.

It's winter here in the UK and last night it rained a lot - this morning, as many others, I had to use a old rag to clear large amounts of condensation from the windows. I'm sure this can't ne normal.

None of the carpets feel especially wet.

Any ideas chaps?

Perhaps blocked gutters or drains?

Danny

Posted
Looking at the cars in the car park where the sun is now shining, I see mine is the only one full of condensation.

What i found on the climate control if you divert all air to the dash vents, no need to have the AC on, the windshield will not fog. I noticed it when the control was set to have air released to the deforst vents and the front vents. Was just a matter of pushuing the select button.

Posted
Hello all,

As I am new to Renntech I am not sure if this topic has been an issue for anyone or has been covered already.

Recently I had a problem clearing misted windows on my '98 C2, without having the aircon switched on. I was convinced there was a leak in the heater matrix as the windows would mist-up completely and very quickly without the air on. It didn't even have to be particularly cold outside. After a short conversation with a kind Technician in Edinburgh he suggested that the pollen filter may be old and restricting the air flow. I was a little sceptical but changed it anyway. Surprisingly the problem cleared up (sorry, nice pun ;) ) straight away and now I don't have to have the aircon on permanently. Problem solved and my conscience is very slightly clearer now that I use slightly less fuel than before!!

Hope this is useful info to somebody

Nic.

Nic:

Were you at the local Drive-in Theater by chance?

99C2

Posted

Nic:

Were you at the local Drive-in Theater by chance?

99C2

Yes, but don't tell my girlfriend, she still believes the pollen filter story.

Posted

Maybe a stupid comment, but a very common reason in all cars for windshield condensation

is a leaking heater core.

Bill

Posted
My 1999 996 often has completely misted windows on the inside when I get into it of a morning.

It's winter here in the UK and last night it rained a lot - this morning, as many others, I had to use a old rag to clear large amounts of condensation from the windows. I'm sure this can't ne normal.

None of the carpets feel especially wet.

Any ideas chaps?

Perhaps blocked gutters or drains?

Danny

If you have condensation showing up on the inside of your windows, you can be sure that there is moisture inside the cabin.

The reason your carpets may not feel wet is that there is a very thick foam backing that will absorb a lot of water before you can feel "wetness" on the surface of the carpet.

Pull the carpet up from under or behind the front seats. If you find moisture underneath the carpet, you must dry it out, and it's no easy task because of how much water the carpet padding absorbs.

While you are at it, be sure to check your central alarm lock unit, which is located under the left seat. If that unit gets wet, or stays wet, you are looking at a major $$$$ repair bill.

If you find moisture or water anywhere, you have got to trace the source. Do a search on this site, there is a post that deals with water collecting in the water trays at the rear and then leaking into the cabin. If you can't find it let me know, and I will search for the post as well.

Regards, Maurice.

Posted

Thanks for the advice Maurice,

Actually Loren kindly sent me this link via a pm

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...ost&p=77264

which I think is the one to which you refer.

Responding to that I checked under the rear carpets and it is dry, well just sticking my fingers under the edge of the foam.

Wasn't immediately obvious how to get under the front carpets, but I'll check them all properly at the weekend.

I guess the styling wouldn't be as good if there weren't internal drains, but sounds like a bad idea to me.

Previous owner told me that his child used to play with the rear windows and was once left open in the rain, don't know if this is true, but that was more than 6 months ago.

It didn't rain last night and this morning the front screen was clear but the rear fogged. It's only a few miles to work, so the car doesn't stay warm for very long.

Danny

Posted (edited)
Thanks for the advice Maurice,

Actually Loren kindly sent me this link via a pm

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...ost&p=77264

which I think is the one to which you refer.

Responding to that I checked under the rear carpets and it is dry, well just sticking my fingers under the edge of the foam.

Wasn't immediately obvious how to get under the front carpets, but I'll check them all properly at the weekend.

I guess the styling wouldn't be as good if there weren't internal drains, but sounds like a bad idea to me.

Previous owner told me that his child used to play with the rear windows and was once left open in the rain, don't know if this is true, but that was more than 6 months ago.

It didn't rain last night and this morning the front screen was clear but the rear fogged. It's only a few miles to work, so the car doesn't stay warm for very long.

Danny

Danny:

The diagram that Loren provided is an excellent document for the location of the drains.

Another knowledgeable poster named "Kim" also posted what he found to be the source of water coming into the cabin. Here is the text of Kim's post:

"In another thread, I described the tribulations involved in removing the rear seat and pax side rear inner sidewall of my 2000 Cab .... all in an attempt to find the source of my water soaked carpets behing the pax seat and under the right back seat.

Today, I finally finished, but have no idea how long it will take that high density foam padding to dry, after I vacuumed and towel blotted it all afternoon.

Here is the lesson learned for you Cab owners: a small plastic drain tray runs along the side wall behind the inner upholstery panel beside each back seat. A right angle fitting leads from the low point, sideways through the inner body panel and into the void ahead of the rear tire. If you remove the rear wheel, then the forward side wheel well liner, all you see is the metal body panel right behind it.

Almost at the bottom of the body panel is the outlet for the drain tube. The outlet itself is a simple plastic check valve with a rubber flapper valve about the size of a nickel. Therein lies the problem. The rubber was stiff with age, and gummed up about 90% with the same kind of crud you clean out of your gutters ... fine, wet, black gunk. When my car was out in the pouring rain at the airport for 2 days, the 10% drain capacity left was clearly not enough to handle the water flow, and a gallon or so ended up in my back seat floor.

I pulled the flapper off, blew out the drain with air, then soaked the flapper in Lexol conditioner to soften it before reinstalling. Considered leaving the rubber flapper off, but was afraid that road debris might come in the other way to block it. Going to pull the driver's side wheel and liner tomorrow.

My car has been kept in a garage ... no reason to suspect more than average debris in the drain. You Cab owners might wish to add this to your "check every now and then" list" "

Let us know what you find after getting under your carpets.

Regards, Maurice.

Edited by 1schoir
Posted (edited)

are the water collection trays ONLY on the cabs or ALL 996?

thanks....

fjust looked at the diagrams again.. got my answer

Edited by silver_6r
Posted

My '01 996 C4 has a switch added into the back wall of the center glove box which allows me to open the electrical ciruit to the A/C compressor clutch. I do not allow the A/C compressor to run throughout the winter months.

The primary source of moisture in teh cabin after driving for a period of time is the A/C itself. When the A/C is shut down after use there will ALWAYS be a thin film of moisture, condensate, remaining on the approximately 10,000 square inches of evaparator cooling vane surface area.

So, where is that moisture to go as it evaporates off of those vanes once the A/C is shut down and those vane surface begin to rise in temperature?

Convection airflow carries the airborne water vapor up to the COLD interior windshield surface, cold side window and rear window surfaces.

My '01 Lexus RX300 has two c-best options which allow me to disable the A/C indefinitely and unlink it from automatic operation in defrost/defog/demist mode.

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

DannyLee, have you checked the bottom of your door cards. If they are wet then you may find that the waterproof door membrane has failed and this lets water in, This is a common cause of condesation in UK cars.

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