Help! Major water under passenger seat

[Pablo]

Hello, I know that a clogged rear drain causes water to drain underneath the passenger seat of Boxsters but now I have a real problem. I've pulled back the carpet behind the passsenger seat and had an air compressor blown through the rear passenger drain of my 2002 boxster but the problem is no air is coming through the drain so it is either majorly clogged or something else. I've tried using a clothehanger to ram down the drain but is seeems to just hit a wall and not be able to go down the drain?!? When I pour a bit of water down the drain as a test, it comes directly through the lower back passenger seat in the same area that the seatbelt begins? Any suggestions?? I'm assuming if it were not clogged, when you poured water down the drain, it would flow directly through and under the car and on to the pavement, right? Reguardless, it's driving me nuts and it's a pain to dry out the passenger seat compartment every time it rains. Please help, thanks,

Pablo

[pk2]

Hello, I know that a clogged rear drain causes water to drain underneath the passenger seat of Boxsters but now I have a real problem. ... it's driving me nuts and it's a pain to dry out the passenger seat compartment every time it rains. Please help, thanks,

Pablo

I’m subscribing to this one.

I’ve had the same prob. on both sides for ever. I can run a coat hanger down my drains ( feels like there’s and “S” shaped bend though you might be hitting, about half way down…be aware)

Regards, Peter

[juniinc]

U will need a small electrician's fish tape!

[pk2]

Actually I probably used 12-14 gauge coated solid (maybe braided) copper electrical wire. It went all the way through and out the bottom with a bit of muck on the end. Repeated several times. Still got the problem...big time.

Regards, PK

[1schoir]

Actually I probably used 12-14 gauge coated solid (maybe braided) copper electrical wire. It went all the way through and out the bottom with a bit of muck on the end. Repeated several times. Still got the problem...big time.

Regards, PK

Peter:

Is it possible that your foam liner that surrounds the rear drain hole got sliced up or punctured when you were having problems with your convertible top operation? If the top is operated with one of the connecting rod arms disconnected (or partially dissassembled), one of the dangling parts can puncture the foam liner.

That would cause water to migrate into the passenger compartment.

If that is the case, you can do a temporary fix by using black silicone adhesive sealant (made by Permatex).

Regards, Maurice.

[Pablo]

Actually I probably used 12-14 gauge coated solid (maybe braided) copper electrical wire. It went all the way through and out the bottom with a bit of muck on the end. Repeated several times. Still got the problem...big time.

Regards, PK

Peter:

Is it possible that your foam liner that surrounds the rear drain hole got sliced up or punctured when you were having problems with your convertible top operation? If the top is operated with one of the connecting rod arms disconnected (or partially dissassembled), one of the dangling parts can puncture the foam liner.

That would cause water to migrate into the passenger compartment.

If that is the case, you can do a temporary fix by using black silicone adhesive sealant (made by Permatex).

Regards, Maurice.

Thanks Maurice, but the foamliner is fine. It's when I get the snake about 3 inches down the drain when it just gets stopped like I hit a wall. Also when air is blasted in down the drain, I can't feel any air come out the bottom of the car. Any other ideas? In the meantime I will try to snake it again but no success so far.

[Pablo]

Hello, I know that a clogged rear drain causes water to drain underneath the passenger seat of Boxsters but now I have a real problem. ... it's driving me nuts and it's a pain to dry out the passenger seat compartment every time it rains. Please help, thanks,

Pablo

I’m subscribing to this one.

I’ve had the same prob. on both sides for ever. I can run a coat hanger down my drains ( feels like there’s and “S” shaped bend though you might be hitting, about half way down…be aware)

Regards, Peter

So were you able to fix the problem using the coathanger? Was your passanger seat compartment getting soaked when it was clogged?

Pablo

[1schoir]

Actually I probably used 12-14 gauge coated solid (maybe braided) copper electrical wire. It went all the way through and out the bottom with a bit of muck on the end. Repeated several times. Still got the problem...big time.

Regards, PK

Peter:

Is it possible that your foam liner that surrounds the rear drain hole got sliced up or punctured when you were having problems with your convertible top operation? If the top is operated with one of the connecting rod arms disconnected (or partially dissassembled), one of the dangling parts can puncture the foam liner.

That would cause water to migrate into the passenger compartment.

If that is the case, you can do a temporary fix by using black silicone adhesive sealant (made by Permatex).

Regards, Maurice.

Thanks Maurice, but the foamliner is fine. It's when I get the snake about 3 inches down the drain when it just gets stopped like I hit a wall. Also when air is blasted in down the drain, I can't feel any air come out the bottom of the car. Any other ideas? In the meantime I will try to snake it again but no success so far.

Peter:

I know you have been down this road before, so it shouldn't be too difficult for you (haha!).

How about removing the 19MM bolt that holds the V-lever onto the top transmission, and then undoing the slotted 2 large round plastic pins at the rear of the foam liner (near the shock absorber) and then seeing if you can partially peel back the foam liner from the inner rear quarter panel. You don't have to peel it away under the front corner (under where the white plastic cups would be).

Then you can get a good look at the other side of the drain hole and determine if part of the drain tube has become dislodged. That may be why you can't snake a wire easily down there.

IIRC you may also have to remove the three nuts that hold the top transmission onto the rear quarter panel and put the transmission aside onto the engine compartment lid temporarily. As long as you don't operate the convertible top switch, you don't have to worry about re-synching the top mechanism.

I know it seems like a PITA, but that alarm control module under the driver's seat is well worth protecting if you want to keep your level of frustration at a reasonable level.

Regards, Maurice.

P.S. Happy and Healthy Supercharged New Year!

[pk2]

Peter:

I know you have been down this road before, so it shouldn't be too difficult for you (haha!).

How about removing the 19MM bolt that holds the V-lever onto the top transmission, and then undoing the slotted 2 large round plastic pins at the rear of the foam liner (near the shock absorber) and then seeing if you can partially peel back the foam liner from the inner rear quarter panel. You don't have to peel it away under the front corner (under where the white plastic cups would be).

Then you can get a good look at the other side of the drain hole and determine if part of the drain tube has become dislodged. That may be why you can't snake a wire easily down there.

IIRC you may also have to remove the three nuts that hold the top transmission onto the rear quarter panel and put the transmission aside onto the engine compartment lid temporarily. As long as you don't operate the convertible top switch, you don't have to worry about re-synching the top mechanism.

I know it seems like a PITA, but that alarm control module under the driver's seat is well worth protecting if you want to keep your level of frustration at a reasonable level.

Regards, Maurice.

P.S. Happy and Healthy Supercharged New Year!

Hey Maurice,

can’t move around these forum without bumping into you. I’m going have to post some pixs so you can see what I got. Don’t want hijack this thread though. But in short, If I’m reading you, my cars amiss.

Nothing in those wells is sealed to anything else. The foam lining just lays in there. A plastic tube that drops into the drain hole just flops around, attached to nothing, etc, etc.

Regards, PK

P.S. Going to leave the top down for a few days, remarkable, with it all closed up, condensation cloms on and in everything in a big way, like an ecosystem in there.

[Pablo]

Hi Maurice, I appreciate all your help. I pealed back the foam liner and took a close look at the rear passenger drain but again when I tried to snake it it hits a "wall" So I pealed back the rear driver side liner and tried to snake that drain to see if I would encounter the same "wall" resistance. No "Wall" resistance on the rear diver side drain so I've come to the conclusion that the problematic rear passenger drain has become dislodged not just clogged. What do you think I should do next? Is this something I take to a body shop to remove the rear quarter panel and fix the drain or is it something that a "semi-retarded when it comes to fixing cars" person like myself can fix? Thanks again for all your help, I just don't know how complex this problem is to fix and if it's better to let a professional do it.

Pablo

Actually I probably used 12-14 gauge coated solid (maybe braided) copper electrical wire. It went all the way through and out the bottom with a bit of muck on the end. Repeated several times. Still got the problem...big time.

Regards, PK

Peter:

Is it possible that your foam liner that surrounds the rear drain hole got sliced up or punctured when you were having problems with your convertible top operation? If the top is operated with one of the connecting rod arms disconnected (or partially dissassembled), one of the dangling parts can puncture the foam liner.

That would cause water to migrate into the passenger compartment.

If that is the case, you can do a temporary fix by using black silicone adhesive sealant (made by Permatex).

Regards, Maurice.

Thanks Maurice, but the foamliner is fine. It's when I get the snake about 3 inches down the drain when it just gets stopped like I hit a wall. Also when air is blasted in down the drain, I can't feel any air come out the bottom of the car. Any other ideas? In the meantime I will try to snake it again but no success so far.

Peter:

I know you have been down this road before, so it shouldn't be too difficult for you (haha!).

How about removing the 19MM bolt that holds the V-lever onto the top transmission, and then undoing the slotted 2 large round plastic pins at the rear of the foam liner (near the shock absorber) and then seeing if you can partially peel back the foam liner from the inner rear quarter panel. You don't have to peel it away under the front corner (under where the white plastic cups would be).

Then you can get a good look at the other side of the drain hole and determine if part of the drain tube has become dislodged. That may be why you can't snake a wire easily down there.

IIRC you may also have to remove the three nuts that hold the top transmission onto the rear quarter panel and put the transmission aside onto the engine compartment lid temporarily. As long as you don't operate the convertible top switch, you don't have to worry about re-synching the top mechanism.

I know it seems like a PITA, but that alarm control module under the driver's seat is well worth protecting if you want to keep your level of frustration at a reasonable level.

Regards, Maurice.

P.S. Happy and Healthy Supercharged New Year!

[pk2]

Hi Maurice, I appreciate all your help. I pealed back the foam liner and took a close look at the rear passenger drain but again when I tried to snake it it hits a "wall" So I pealed back the rear driver side liner and tried to snake that drain to see if I would encounter the same "wall" resistance. No "Wall" resistance on the rear diver side drain so I've come to the conclusion that the problematic rear passenger drain has become dislodged not just clogged. What do you think I should do next? Is this something I take to a body shop to remove the rear quarter panel and fix the drain or is it something that a "semi-retarded when it comes to fixing cars" person like myself can fix? Thanks again for all your help, I just don't know how complex this problem is to fix and if it's better to let a professional do it.

Pablo

Hate to butt in...

If your drain was dislodged (I don’t believe it can be) your probe would go straight down into the abyss, so to would the water. Removing the fender would be a very expensive and completely unnecessary.

Since you are admittedly mechanically challenged, find a good shop and have them try to push (or smash) the blockage from the discharge end of the drain (its right in the wheel well, If there handy, They may well push it right out the top…one way or another.

Regards, PK

[1schoir]

Hi Maurice, I appreciate all your help. I pealed back the foam liner and took a close look at the rear passenger drain but again when I tried to snake it it hits a "wall" So I pealed back the rear driver side liner and tried to snake that drain to see if I would encounter the same "wall" resistance. No "Wall" resistance on the rear diver side drain so I've come to the conclusion that the problematic rear passenger drain has become dislodged not just clogged. What do you think I should do next? Is this something I take to a body shop to remove the rear quarter panel and fix the drain or is it something that a "semi-retarded when it comes to fixing cars" person like myself can fix? Thanks again for all your help, I just don't know how complex this problem is to fix and if it's better to let a professional do it.

Pablo

Pablo:

If you have managed to take off the V-lever and have figured out how to peel back the foam liner without removing the entire convertible top frame, you should certainly be capable of tracking the source of this problem. You have already figured out that the drain or drain hose has become dislodged.

Remember my caveat to not operate the dash switch for the convertible top while the V-levers are removed. Otherwise, again, you will incur additional work in re-synching the top.

You don't need a body shop removing the rear quarter panel for this task.

If I were in your shoes, here is how I would proceed:

On the driver's side, since you have determined that drain is not dislodged, I would snake down a heavy gauge (12 gauge should be sufficient) stranded wire with no sharp edges at its leading end down into the drain from above. Once you see where the wire comes out from the bottom, you will have a better idea of where to look for the routing of the drain on the problem side, i.e., the passenger's side.

Then, go over to the passenger's side and jack the car up safely onto a jackstand. Then remove the right rear tire. It would be a good idea, for safety's sake, to put the removed wheel and tire sideways under the car near where you are working.

From under the car, take a look at where the passenger's side drain exits (by comparing it to the exit of the drain where the wire came out on the driver's side). Then, remove the wheel well liner on the passenger's side and see if it exposes the drain hose and if you can put it back in place so that it drains properly. The wheel well liner is only held in place by a few 10mm plastic nuts and a couple of black plastic push pins.

Let us know if you have any success, as I am reasonably sure it is something relatively simple.

Regards, Maurice.

[Pablo]

Thanks Maurice, I finally got around to removing the wheel liner to see if the drain was dislodged and it was still intact. I have included a photo to show that next I tried to snake the drain from below and the snake went up 14 inches until it hits the curve in the drain at that point, I hit "the wall". No matter how hard I try to push the snake up past that curve, it won't go any further. I am thinking about just throwing my boxster in a dumpster unless you have any other ideas. I really appreciate you taking the time to help me out, this is so frustrating because like you said, it seems like it should be an easy solution but so far it's not. Perhaps it is time to bring it to the dealer and spend an unnecessary amount of money to finally get this drain unclogged. What do you think?

Pablo

Hi Maurice, I appreciate all your help. I pealed back the foam liner and took a close look at the rear passenger drain but again when I tried to snake it it hits a "wall" So I pealed back the rear driver side liner and tried to snake that drain to see if I would encounter the same "wall" resistance. No "Wall" resistance on the rear diver side drain so I've come to the conclusion that the problematic rear passenger drain has become dislodged not just clogged. What do you think I should do next? Is this something I take to a body shop to remove the rear quarter panel and fix the drain or is it something that a "semi-retarded when it comes to fixing cars" person like myself can fix? Thanks again for all your help, I just don't know how complex this problem is to fix and if it's better to let a professional do it.

Pablo

Pablo:

If you have managed to take off the V-lever and have figured out how to peel back the foam liner without removing the entire convertible top frame, you should certainly be capable of tracking the source of this problem. You have already figured out that the drain or drain hose has become dislodged.

Remember my caveat to not operate the dash switch for the convertible top while the V-levers are removed. Otherwise, again, you will incur additional work in re-synching the top.

You don't need a body shop removing the rear quarter panel for this task.

If I were in your shoes, here is how I would proceed:

On the driver's side, since you have determined that drain is not dislodged, I would snake down a heavy gauge (12 gauge should be sufficient) stranded wire with no sharp edges at its leading end down into the drain from above. Once you see where the wire comes out from the bottom, you will have a better idea of where to look for the routing of the drain on the problem side, i.e., the passenger's side.

Then, go over to the passenger's side and jack the car up safely onto a jackstand. Then remove the right rear tire. It would be a good idea, for safety's sake, to put the removed wheel and tire sideways under the car near where you are working.

From under the car, take a look at where the passenger's side drain exits (by comparing it to the exit of the drain where the wire came out on the driver's side). Then, remove the wheel well liner on the passenger's side and see if it exposes the drain hose and if you can put it back in place so that it drains properly. The wheel well liner is only held in place by a few 10mm plastic nuts and a couple of black plastic push pins.

Let us know if you have any success, as I am reasonably sure it is something relatively simple.

Regards, Maurice.

[1schoir]

Thanks Maurice, I finally got around to removing the wheel liner to see if the drain was dislodged and it was still intact. I have included a photo to show that next I tried to snake the drain from below and the snake went up 14 inches until it hits the curve in the drain at that point, I hit "the wall". No matter how hard I try to push the snake up past that curve, it won't go any further. I am thinking about just throwing my boxster in a dumpster unless you have any other ideas. I really appreciate you taking the time to help me out, this is so frustrating because like you said, it seems like it should be an easy solution but so far it's not. Perhaps it is time to bring it to the dealer and spend an unnecessary amount of money to finally get this drain unclogged. What do you think?

Pablo

Pablo:

The photo did not show up, maybe you can repost it.

Don't give up yet, and do throw the Boxster into the dumpster. That would be sacrilegious!

As Peter suggests above, it now sounds like you may possibly have a large pebble or some other similar debris stuck in the drain hose, blocking the path of drain water or of the snake you are trying to push through.

If you have access to compressed air, stick the compressed air gun into the drain from underneath and maybe wrap the gun nozzle in a rag or a rubber sheet to get some seal there, then go up top and listen for any air coming through the drain hole. If you hear high pitched whistling, then there is probably something stuck in there. Be careful not to look down the drain hole while there is air coming in from below under pressure as whatever is down there could suddenly come flying out.

If you determine there is something in there, before trying to take out the complete drain tube, try pushing in something stiffer than the snake in from underneath , and push it back and forth to try to dislodge it.

At the stage you are presently at, a dealer would not do anything different that what you are presently attempting, other than to dismantle everything in that area and replacing everything and charging you accordingly.

As a last resort, since you have everything opened up from above and from below, how hard would it be to pull out the drain hose completely and then either re-install it after clearing it out or replacing it with a new one. Another possibility, although I don't know if it's feasible, would be to get a new drain hose, and route it right next to the present problem drain hose and connect it to underneath the foam liner drain tray.

I'd love to see the photo you took, if you can manage it.

Regards, Maurice.

Edited January 16, 2008 by 1schoir

[pk2]

Hello, I know that a clogged rear drain causes water to drain underneath the passenger seat of Boxsters but now I have a real problem. I've pulled back the carpet behind the passsenger seat and had an air compressor blown through the rear passenger drain of my 2002 boxster but the problem is no air is coming through the drain so it is either majorly clogged or something else. I've tried using a clothehanger to ram down ... Reguardless, it's driving me nuts and it's a pain to dry out the passenger seat compartment every time it rains. Please help, thanks,

Pablo

Your right, thats strange. I think the same. Can't explain the water freely flows in to the car. I’ll stick to my guns though.

That is. you ought attack the blockage from the other end (from the wheel well), If a marble, for instance, rolled freely in and down the tube, then got hung at a curve or something, it would seem logical that you could push it (relatively) easily back out the way it came in. That is from the bottom up.

(You would have to overcome initial resistance caused by you banging it further into it’s pinch)

I think once that stumbling block is removed, I think a complete solution may become more obvious.

Regards, PK

Edited January 16, 2008 by pk2

[Pablo]

Well, I finally got it figured out. I took out the wheel liner and dislodged the drain just enough to turn it almost sideways. I snaked it from below and above, whacked a few layers of skin off my fingers, and low and behold a bullet shaped plastic cork-like fragment that had been deeply lodged in the S turn of the drain popped out :) It made my day. Just to make sure there was no more blockage, I poured a glass of water down the drain and it flowed through with no problem. Thanks again my friend, now I can sleep at night.

Thanks Maurice, I finally got around to removing the wheel liner to see if the drain was dislodged and it was still intact. I have included a photo to show that next I tried to snake the drain from below and the snake went up 14 inches until it hits the curve in the drain at that point, I hit "the wall". No matter how hard I try to push the snake up past that curve, it won't go any further. I am thinking about just throwing my boxster in a dumpster unless you have any other ideas. I really appreciate you taking the time to help me out, this is so frustrating because like you said, it seems like it should be an easy solution but so far it's not. Perhaps it is time to bring it to the dealer and spend an unnecessary amount of money to finally get this drain unclogged. What do you think?

Pablo

Pablo:

The photo did not show up, maybe you can repost it.

Don't give up yet, and do throw the Boxster into the dumpster. That would be sacrilegious!

As Peter suggests above, it now sounds like you may possibly have a large pebble or some other similar debris stuck in the drain hose, blocking the path of drain water or of the snake you are trying to push through.

If you have access to compressed air, stick the compressed air gun into the drain from underneath and maybe wrap the gun nozzle in a rag or a rubber sheet to get some seal there, then go up top and listen for any air coming through the drain hole. If you hear high pitched whistling, then there is probably something stuck in there. Be careful not to look down the drain hole while there is air coming in from below under pressure as whatever is down there could suddenly come flying out.

If you determine there is something in there, before trying to take out the complete drain tube, try pushing in something stiffer than the snake in from underneath , and push it back and forth to try to dislodge it.

At the stage you are presently at, a dealer would not do anything different that what you are presently attempting, other than to dismantle everything in that area and replacing everything and charging you accordingly.

As a last resort, since you have everything opened up from above and from below, how hard would it be to pull out the drain hose completely and then either re-install it after clearing it out or replacing it with a new one. Another possibility, although I don't know if it's feasible, would be to get a new drain hose, and route it right next to the present problem drain hose and connect it to underneath the foam liner drain tray.

I'd love to see the photo you took, if you can manage it.

Regards, Maurice.

[pk2]

Well, I finally got it figured out. I took out the wheel liner and dislodged the drain just enough to turn it almost sideways. I snaked it from below and above, whacked a few layers of skin off my fingers, and low and behold a bullet shaped plastic cork-like fragment that had been deeply lodged in the S turn of the drain popped out :) It made my day. Just to make sure there was no more blockage, I poured a glass of water down the drain and it flowed through with no problem. Thanks again my friend, now I can sleep at night.

Well what can we all say... "I'll be da_med" ...popn' champagne corks in the back of a convertible Porsche...

regards, PK

[1schoir]

Well, I finally got it figured out. I took out the wheel liner and dislodged the drain just enough to turn it almost sideways. I snaked it from below and above, whacked a few layers of skin off my fingers, and low and behold a bullet shaped plastic cork-like fragment that had been deeply lodged in the S turn of the drain popped out :) It made my day. Just to make sure there was no more blockage, I poured a glass of water down the drain and it flowed through with no problem. Thanks again my friend, now I can sleep at night

Pablo:

Way to go! I knew you could do it, and I'm glad you stuck with it. Keep the cork as a souvenir, sort of like when you kill a shark and keep one of its teeth! LOL!

Regards, Maurice.