stiff 5 speed in neutral

[rsfeller]

I mentioned this about a month ago but since then I've got to drive the car some. Hopefully I can get some constructive ideas other then a "squirrel in my linkage"!

My daily driver and back up car are both in the shop, so the 986 had to come out of winter storage. I noted that the left or right travel of the stick shift is very "thick" and slow, but doesn't have a mechanical binding feel. Travel through the gears from 1-2-3-4-5-R feels fine and smooth. If you put the car in netural and push left or right it doesn't return to center!

After being in the heated carage (55F) all weekend and driving to work in 40F weather it feels slightly better but still stickes some.

What is most likely the cause of this and fix. I'm guessing something needs greased badly.

1997 986 77K miles.

Shawn

[juniinc]

hey Shawn

does it make any kind of a squeaking sound/noise or thung noise at all?

[rsfeller]

Not at all! Nothing feels mechanical about it in any perspective. I can tell you after my hour long commute ride to work it does loosen up some but then on the drive home I noted the shift from 2-3 required a genuine thought to move it over!

If I felt I was binding something I most likly wouldn't drive it...but then again, my other two cars on "on the bench"....

[itzbob46]

I believe that I understand what you are describing. Look at any photo of a shifter (any brand) and you will see that there is a front and rear bushing that poivots the lever right and left. Yours must be bound up or dry. Probably needs some grease in those bushings. (and scrape out squirrel remains...lol) Maybe a good time to put in a short throw shifter!

There are good instarctions available in forums for changing the shifter that will help you get to that point. Write again if can't find.

Bob

[rsfeller]

Bob,

Let me know of any great links that explain the area well. My brain is a bit overloaded with a Vanagon Syncro with blown brake lines and a Saab wagon with a dead fuel pump. My ability to goggle is severely diminished!

I really feel like this is a bad grease issue, as it came about after the car sat for 2 month in a 20F garage.

Other then the obvious what are the benifits of the short throw shifters? I've never felt the shifting took a stretch or missed shifts in the 986, is it pretty amazing how close shift points are with such a kit? I've always been curious.

Now in my vanagon I can see the benifit. 1 & 2 are seperated by about 6 inches of real estate!

Shawn

[juniinc]

Here is a great instruction I believe .hope this might be able to help u out

67.pdf

Bob,

Let me know of any great links that explain the area well. My brain is a bit overloaded with a Vanagon Syncro with blown brake lines and a Saab wagon with a dead fuel pump. My ability to goggle is severely diminished!

I really feel like this is a bad grease issue, as it came about after the car sat for 2 month in a 20F garage.

Other then the obvious what are the benifits of the short throw shifters? I've never felt the shifting took a stretch or missed shifts in the 986, is it pretty amazing how close shift points are with such a kit? I've always been curious.

Now in my vanagon I can see the benifit. 1 & 2 are seperated by about 6 inches of real estate!

Shawn

[rsfeller]

great stuff. If it doesn't get worse I'll upgrade the shifter in the spring along with a new boot/shifter.

I'm quite sure this has been covered 101 times but which short throw is most recommended? See them all over ebay all the time but I"m sure there is some garbage out there!

[juniinc]

now this thread has gone further ~

I would have to say B&M

[itzbob46]

Bob,

Let me know of any great links that explain the area well. My brain is a bit overloaded with a Vanagon Syncro with blown brake lines and a Saab wagon with a dead fuel pump. My ability to goggle is severely diminished!

I really feel like this is a bad grease issue, as it came about after the car sat for 2 month in a 20F garage.

Other then the obvious what are the benifits of the short throw shifters? I've never felt the shifting took a stretch or missed shifts in the 986, is it pretty amazing how close shift points are with such a kit? I've always been curious.

Now in my vanagon I can see the benifit. 1 & 2 are seperated by about 6 inches of real estate!

Shawn

Shawn ....

I don't have a short throw retrofit, but have studied them. You'll find that the B&M seems to be the most popular. I took another route. I pulled out the stock shifter and cut 7/8" off the top of the steel shift lever. It's at a much more comfortable height now, and that automaticly shortens the throw as well (somewhat). The stock shifter isn't great, but I'm not racing and I don't know what "great" feels like. To remove the bushings on the stock shifter you many have to cut them out. I advise another post to ask members who have taken these things apart. See steps 23-25 on the B&M instructions that you already have.....I'm not sure if they can be reinserted once removed or not. Many of these members have done it, so answers are available.

Good Luck.

Bob

[Tool Pants]

You might check where the cables attach to the side of the transmission and spray some grease.

[rsfeller]

Are there different cables that control gear selection (vertical travel) vs. horizontal travel?

This does remind me when we've replaced throttle cables or transmission cables on my boat, how they bind slightly before they freeze up...but again everything travels in the North/South direction perfectly!

I'll take a look at cable entry locations this weekend.

[itzbob46]

Are there different cables that control gear selection (vertical travel) vs. horizontal travel?

This does remind me when we've replaced throttle cables or transmission cables on my boat, how they bind slightly before they freeze up...but again everything travels in the North/South direction perfectly!

I'll take a look at cable entry locations this weekend.

Shawn ~

One cable does the shifting and the other tells the trans which gears to shift when the lever goes "north-south" (1-2) or (3-4), etc. So, that second cable that is commanded when the shifter moves side to side may be the culprit as well. Could be something other than those bushings such as cable "rot" or binding/rubbing like refered to by Toolpants. If you open the console up like in the early steps of the B&M instructions you can detach that cable easily and see if the shift lever moves side to side with ease in order to narrow it down to the "culprit". Hope it's the shifter....no fun fooling around under the car or replacing cables. Let us know what you find.