Top replacement about to take place

[1schoir]

It has been so long since i started this i cannot remember which way up the rear weather seal fits on the bow.

Can anyone confirm this is the correct way up

Jim:

The direction of the "fat gasket" that you have drawn in your diagram is correctly positioned. The extra "lip" on that fat gasket has to be pouring over the rearmost edge of slot #3 (the rearmost slot of the 3 in that bow).

Here is a photo of the three slots, with no arrow pointing to slot #3:

The solid arrow is pointing to slot #1, and the dotted arrow is pointing to slot # 2.

You can also see the ribbed gasket that is inserted into slot #1, which has been partially pulled out for the first five inches for this photograph.

Your diagram also correctly shows the position of the triangular (cut-away view) gasket.

Note that the black metal frame has been separated from the arm on which it pivots (two 10mm bolts underneath) for the purpose of showing the slots more clearly.

With respect to the "fat gasket", make sure you use some kind of lubricant before you attempt to force in those two sets of "fins" down into that slot #3. Even with the lubricant it takes quite a bit of effort. You will know that the fat gasket is properly seated when the "rolled" part of the gasket is evenly in contact with the seam that is adjacent and immediately forward of that gasket.

Regards, Maurice.

[Paul Fraser]

Jimmy - I don't suppose you are near Glasgow are you, I'm thinking of doing mine this year... :)

[jimyboyle]

Jimmy - I don't suppose you are near Glasgow are you, I'm thinking of doing mine this year... :)

[jimyboyle]

Bearsden

[Paul Fraser]

Wish I'd known -- I'd have offered to come and hold your spanners.

[jimyboyle]

Wish I'd known -- I'd have offered to come and hold your spanners.

A large hammer would be a better idea, still trying to get it finished. Maybe this week be be the end of the saga.

Not a good experience but perhaps because someone had been at it before me.

After I managed to get all the 'correct' parts i found the holes for the cable anchor on the bottom of the posts were stripped. Fixed that but now struggling to get the second of the aluminium plates located at the side above the door.

Jim

[jimyboyle]

Thats the roof finally fitted and it looks quite good with its new glass window.

It closed with the roof correctly locating in the B pillar grooves, i will leave it closed for a while to let the canvas stretch and try opening and closing to see if it still locates correctly.

The vinyl 'curtain' that locates onto the rear bow to deflect water into the foam liners has never been connected to anything other than the bow. Can anyone say where it locates on the rear of the car, nothing seems obvious to me

Jim

[1schoir]

Thats the roof finally fitted and it looks quite good with its new glass window.

It closed with the roof correctly locating in the B pillar grooves, i will leave it closed for a while to let the canvas stretch and try opening and closing to see if it still locates correctly.

The vinyl 'curtain' that locates onto the rear bow to deflect water into the foam liners has never been connected to anything other than the bow. Can anyone say where it locates on the rear of the car, nothing seems obvious to me

Jim

Jim:

Congratulations on persevering and getting the top done!

You are correct that it was probably harder because someone else had been at it before, and, from your initial description it sounds like they cut a couple of corners. The screw that goes into the base of each B-Pillar to fasten the tensioning cable strips very easily because it goes into aluminum. Maybe if the guy before you had read the caution contained in the DIY on Mike Focke's Boxster Pages on that very issue you would have had an easier time.

As to the vinyl curtain, it is supposed to have a flat plastic blade attached to its trailing end, and that "blade" is supposed to be fastened to two brackets that are screwed into the rear wall of the convertible top well. The blade slips under each bracket, and the brackets are located about 12" away from each side of the electric motor for the top (left and right), and about 6" down.

Regards, Maurice.

Edited March 18, 2008 by 1schoir

[cayvman]

Got the new top installed in my '02 by Markels in LA. How does one put the top in service mode so that I can get to the engine?

[1schoir]

Got the new top installed in my '02 by Markels in LA. How does one put the top in service mode so that I can get to the engine?

Cayvman:

First disconnect the flat metal blade at the trailing end of the black vinyl curtain that runs from left to right at the rear of the convertible top well by pulling each side down.

Then disconnect each of the two metal cups at the lower end of each vinyl-coated cable (runs from the underside of the rear main bow of the convertible top frame, through a vinyl loop sewn into the sides of the vinyl curtain, down to each side at the corner of the carpeted cover for the engine compartment). To disconnect the cups, just reach in and pull each one outboard. It takes some effort but can be done manually without any tools or levers.

Unlatch the convertible top latch and open the convertible top about 12 inches.

Now, grab the rear main bow of the convertible top frame at its middle and pull up sharply. Once the rear main bow is at about a 45 degree angle, it will have some resistance that will stop it from dropping back down. Pull it up as far as it will go.

Remove the carpeted cover of the engine compartment and then the plastic cover.

Regards, Maurice.