Front Suspension Diagram... Camber components specifically

[CJ_Boxster]

I was wondering if anyone has a diagram or exploded view of the front suspension camber components, I'd like to see how they are attached to the rest of the suspension so i can figure out why my front drivers side wheel camber is adjusted out to the MAX but still has too much negative camber on stock suspension.

[juniinc]

this might be able to help u

Edited December 4, 2008 by juniinc

[Loren]

This should explain you problem...

[CJ_Boxster]

This should explain you problem...

Thanks Loren but i dont know how that can help me understand my camber problem.

[CJ_Boxster]

So are you telling that the bolt holding the strut into the hub is an area for adjustment? if so, what do i do to it to get closer to near perfect camber specs instead of the "Just barely in the acceptible range" that im in now?

[Loren]

So is the caster within spec - worn lower control arms can cause all kinds of alignment issues.

Front wheel camber is adjusted by moving the (top) spring strut transversely. Just loosen the three fastening nuts on the spring-strut mount and, for the purpose of movement, remove the covering cap on the piston rod. Then move the whole top of the strut assembly until you have proper camber.

[CJ_Boxster]

So is the caster within spec - worn lower control arms can cause all kinds of alignment issues.

Front wheel camber is adjusted by moving the (top) spring strut transversely. Just loosen the three fastening nuts on the spring-strut mount and, for the purpose of movement, remove the covering cap on the piston rod. Then move the whole top of the strut assembly until you have proper camber.

I have new adjustible Caster arm or front track arms and when i removed the old arms, i stood them on a table side by side and locked the lock nut on the arms, they slide right into place so im positive the caster is on the dot. FYI the camber has been like this before replacing the front caster arm.

[CJ_Boxster]

What if i were to elongate the slots that the camber adjustment bolts are sticking out of in order to pull the strut out some more for less negative? lets say about 1/4 of an inch on all 3 slots... would there be something wrong with doing that?

[CJ_Boxster]

lol i see these pictures but i dont know what you are trying to tell me.

[juniinc]

LOL maybe cuz I dont understand what u r talking about? r u talking about this,how u planning on have it elongated?

lol i see these pictures but i dont know what you are trying to tell me.

[CJ_Boxster]

Yes that is what Iam talking about. Or, if there are eccentric's for the lower control arm where it bolts to the chasis, i can just install those to get the camber in the front into spec.

LOL maybe cuz I dont understand what u r talking about? r u talking about this,how u planning on have it elongated?

lol i see these pictures but i dont know what you are trying to tell me.

[seafeye]

Yes that is what Iam talking about. Or, if there are eccentric's for the lower control arm where it bolts to the chasis, i can just install those to get the camber in the front into spec.

LOL maybe cuz I dont understand what u r talking about? r u talking about this,how u planning on have it elongated?

lol i see these pictures but i dont know what you are trying to tell me.

Maybe these guys can modify the arms....

http://www.aurorabearing.com/

[CJ_Boxster]

I talked to the dealer, they said that They see the issue in having from time to time when they are giving alignments and most of the time its a bend shock... the shiney rod inside the strut can sometimes bend and basically give you more negative camber than you want. I havent checked if my strut is bent yet but he did also say they dont sell eccentric's for the front but they are pretty sure theres a shop out there that does. Thanks for the advise on eccentrics Loren.

[John V]

I talked to the dealer, they said that They see the issue in having from time to time when they are giving alignments and most of the time its a bend shock... the shiney rod inside the strut can sometimes bend and basically give you more negative camber than you want. I havent checked if my strut is bent yet but he did also say they dont sell eccentric's for the front but they are pretty sure theres a shop out there that does. Thanks for the advise on eccentrics Loren.

Well, the rear suspension arms have eccentrics that allow you to adjust the camber of the rear wheels since the rear strut towers are not slotted. Given that the rear lower control arms are the same as the fronts, I suppose you could adapt the rear eccentric bolts and nuts to work up front as well. I haven't looked closely at the lower control arm mounts in the front and rear to be able to tell you what you have to do. I suspect it would not be a simple solution.

I would be more concerned why your camber isn't coming into spec. What are your numbers exactly? Do you have any suspension modifications (lowering springs, etc)? It sounds like the car may be tweaked.

Edited December 20, 2007 by John V

[jmatta]

"I would be more concerned why your camber isn't coming into spec. What are your numbers exactly? Do you have any suspension modifications (lowering springs, etc)? It sounds like the car may be tweaked".

Sounds like someone may have hit a large pothole or curbing and damaged the suspension at some point. This car ever been tracked?

[CJ_Boxster]

Well its stock suspension and when i went for my first alignment the camber was set to perfect, then the second alignment they couldnt get the drivers side camber to near perfect anymore. I think it might have been a speed bump i hit afew months back, i hit it pretty hard.... the weird thing i noticed immediatly after hitting the speed bump is that the noticible vibration at freeway speeds in my steering wheel and entire dash was gone LOL I think i bent the strut while hinting that speed bump... Atleast i have a set of new struts with eibachs waiting to be installed.