Plastic ball joint

[1schoir]

I would also like to add myself to the list of exploding white balls on my 2005 Boxster S. Had the car for a month and yesterday it said "boom".

So if you got the link to the person with the balls, I would love to have a PM too. Thanks

/Thomas

Thomas:

PM Sent.

Regards, Maurice.

[gec5]

I have a left broken ball joint, a broken right frame (the magnesium casting with the three bolts that fastens the top to the car), and a bent push rod. I think one ball joint failed and the excessive force on the other side bent and finally broke the frame. I need a source for repalcement ball joints if anyone has it. I now have my top and frame off, waititng for the frame piece ($100), new rubber bushings for the push rods and assorted other things that looked out of sorts when I removed the top. I had to repair the rips in the foam trays as the broken ball joint allowed the push rod do some damage. I used Permatex black silicone reinforced with duct tape on the back while the goop dries. They look as good as new and will not leak. Oh yeah, I am also sewing a new window in the top while it is off. The duct tape patch that has been keeping the 3" tear in the window from leaking finally wore out and looks a little too ghetto. I also replaced the bowden cable in the drivers door (got tired of rolling down the window to get out) and will be replacing the a/c low pressure line that is crushed and leaking due to a misplaced jack (long ways from home, low tire, moron in the local gas station who did not even tell me although he had to hear the refridgerant leaking out). I have located the part but any sugestions on how to get that beast out of the car would be appreciated.

Thanks to all the posters on Renntech I was able to do all of this with few problems. The top came out in 20 minutes, the door fix was about an hour (no you don't have to diconnect or even loosen the door latch)and as long as I can get the top to close properly the sewing remains the last challenge. My 98 Boxster with 45k miles is my daily driver year round and has been for more than 4 years. I'm stuck driving my wife's Jag, or the diesel excursion and both suck compared to the Box, especially in rush hour traffic.

Again, thanks to all and any help in locating the ball joints without having to buy a set of push rods is greatly appreciated.

Greg

Portland Oregon

[1schoir]

I have a left broken ball joint, a broken right frame (the magnesium casting with the three bolts that fastens the top to the car), and a bent push rod. I think one ball joint failed and the excessive force on the other side bent and finally broke the frame. I need a source for repalcement ball joints if anyone has it. I now have my top and frame off, waititng for the frame piece ($100), new rubber bushings for the push rods and assorted other things that looked out of sorts when I removed the top. I had to repair the rips in the foam trays as the broken ball joint allowed the push rod do some damage. I used Permatex black silicone reinforced with duct tape on the back while the goop dries. They look as good as new and will not leak. Oh yeah, I am also sewing a new window in the top while it is off. The duct tape patch that has been keeping the 3" tear in the window from leaking finally wore out and looks a little too ghetto. I also replaced the bowden cable in the drivers door (got tired of rolling down the window to get out) and will be replacing the a/c low pressure line that is crushed and leaking due to a misplaced jack (long ways from home, low tire, moron in the local gas station who did not even tell me although he had to hear the refridgerant leaking out). I have located the part but any sugestions on how to get that beast out of the car would be appreciated.

Thanks to all the posters on Renntech I was able to do all of this with few problems. The top came out in 20 minutes, the door fix was about an hour (no you don't have to diconnect or even loosen the door latch)and as long as I can get the top to close properly the sewing remains the last challenge. My 98 Boxster with 45k miles is my daily driver year round and has been for more than 4 years. I'm stuck driving my wife's Jag, or the diesel excursion and both suck compared to the Box, especially in rush hour traffic.

Again, thanks to all and any help in locating the ball joints without having to buy a set of push rods is greatly appreciated.

Greg

Portland Oregon

Greg:

Wow! It sounds like you have been really busy!

That Permatex Black Silicone Adhesive Sealant works really well on the drain trays.

I have sent you a PM with the info on buying just the plastic ball cups.

Keep up the good work!

Regards, Maurice.

[gec5]

Maurice,

Thanks for the PM. I ordered the ball joints this morning. All my parts for the convertible top frame arrived so I will get that reassembled this weekend.

I'm researching how to sew in a new window. The window kit I purchased on e-bay two years ago came with instructions in German from the BMW manual. That seems to be the best the seller of the kit can provide. Not very helpful so i put off the window repair until now. It does have a synopsis in English that is poorly translated and quite brief that describes the process. It says to leave the old window in, cut out the threads, and slide the new window in over it, glue and sew the thing up, then remove the old window by carefully cutting it out along the edge of the window seam while not cutting the new window behind it in the process. I gotta find a better way so I'm doing some research.

Any thoughts on removing that A/C line.

Thanks for all your help and I'll keep youi posted on the top.

Greg

[DIESELVET]

I have just purchased a 2006 Boxster S and noticed the passenger side white ball is broken. The top works and the previous owner had both rods replaced 2 years ago. Is there a way to prolong the longevity of these rods such as lubrication of the top mechanism or is there a calibration I can do to set the length of the rod just right. I'm a little reluctant just to copy the length of the other rods since there is no guarantee they were properly adjusted in the first instance. I would greatly appreciate a PM with the contact details of the gentleman in Europe that sells just the white plastic part. Thanks in advance to Maurice for any help and for his most helpful posts on the subject.

[1schoir]

I have just purchased a 2006 Boxster S and noticed the passenger side white ball is broken. The top works and the previous owner had both rods replaced 2 years ago. Is there a way to prolong the longevity of these rods such as lubrication of the top mechanism or is there a calibration I can do to set the length of the rod just right. I'm a little reluctant just to copy the length of the other rods since there is no guarantee they were properly adjusted in the first instance. I would greatly appreciate a PM with the contact details of the gentleman in Europe that sells just the white plastic part. Thanks in advance to Maurice for any help and for his most helpful posts on the subject.

Dieselvet:

You can use the overall length of the opposite side pushrod as a starting point for the length of the new pushrod. If the front edge of the convertible top mates up evenly (on both sides) with the top horizontal part of the windshield frame, AND there isn't the beginning of a retraction of the front roof edge away from the top of the windshield frame when the motor stops driving the top, then you have the pushrods set at their correct lengths.

You can lubricate the ball cups/steel balls and the pivot points of the clamshell arm/V-levers/rear (black) pushrods with Dupont Krytox or white lithium grease, and also spray some white lithium grease in the channel on the inside of each rear quarter panel in which the steel ball at the bottom end of the body-colored clamshell support arm rides back and forth.

Cleaning all of those points before lubricating them will also help reduce friction and wear and tear on the parts.

Test that there is smooth operation of the convertible frame part of your top by disconnecting all four pushrods and trying to move the top through its range with everything disconnected. If it is in proper working order, you should be able to move the top with just your pinky supporting the center of either the front or the bottom edge of the top.

Also double check that all of the plastic bushes (bushings) that act as inserts where the ends of the black hydraulic pushrods are pushed through one of the metal arms are intact, along with the same arrangement at a few other points.

I have sent you a PM with the info for the plastic ball cups.

Very Important: Don't forget to verify that the broken pushrod did not puncture or tear the foam drain tray on that side if the top was operated with a broken "dangling" pushrod. Any tear or rip in the drain tray can result in water in the cabin, where it will find its way to the immobilizer under the seat.

Regards, Maurice.

Edited December 14, 2010 by 1schoir

[DIESELVET]

I have just purchased a 2006 Boxster S and noticed the passenger side white ball is broken. The top works and the previous owner had both rods replaced 2 years ago. Is there a way to prolong the longevity of these rods such as lubrication of the top mechanism or is there a calibration I can do to set the length of the rod just right. I'm a little reluctant just to copy the length of the other rods since there is no guarantee they were properly adjusted in the first instance. I would greatly appreciate a PM with the contact details of the gentleman in Europe that sells just the white plastic part. Thanks in advance to Maurice for any help and for his most helpful posts on the subject.

Dieselvet:

You can use the overall length of the opposite side pushrod as a starting point for the length of the new pushrod. If the front edge of the convertible top mates up evenly (on both sides) with the top horizontal part of the windshield frame, AND there isn't the beginning of a retraction of the front roof edge away from the top of the windshield frame when the motor stops driving the top, then you have the pushrods set at their correct lengths.

You can lubricate the ball cups/steel balls and the pivot points of the clamshell arm/V-levers/rear (black) pushrods with Dupont Krytox or white lithium grease, and also spray some white lithium grease in the channel on the inside of each rear quarter panel in which the steel ball at the bottom end of the body-colored clamshell support arm rides back and forth.

Cleaning all of those points before lubricating them will also help reduce friction and wear and tear on the parts.

Test that there is smooth operation of the convertible frame part of your top by disconnecting all four pushrods and trying to move the top through its range with everything disconnected. If it is in proper working order, you should be able to move the top with just your pinky supporting the center of either the front or the bottom edge of the top.

Also double check that all of the plastic bushes (bushings) that act as inserts where the ends of the black hydraulic pushrods are pushed through one of the metal arms are intact, along with the same arrangement at a few other points.

I have sent you a PM with the info for the plastic ball cups.

Very Important: Don't forget to verify that the broken pushrod did not puncture or tear the foam drain tray on that side if the top was operated with a broken "dangling" pushrod. Any tear or rip in the drain tray can result in water in the cabin, where it will find its way to the immobilizer under the seat.

Regards, Maurice.

Hi Maurice,

Thanks very much for your detailed reply and PM. I'll tackle this problem over the holidays. Best wishes to you and yours. Ed.

[skertchly]

I just bought my 2001 Boxster S, already knowing that the top was not working. After a little investigating, my guess is that the missing piece is probably what everybody is talking about in this topic.

Maurice, could you please send me the info of the person that sells the balls? I'm probably going to need to order a set. Thanks!

[1schoir]

I just bought my 2001 Boxster S, already knowing that the top was not working. After a little investigating, my guess is that the missing piece is probably what everybody is talking about in this topic.

Maurice, could you please send me the info of the person that sells the balls? I'm probably going to need to order a set. Thanks!

Skertchly:

PM Sent. Check your "Messenger".

Regards, Maurice.

[ClubPorscheMallorca]

Hello it´s my first message and I want to give my deepest thanks to all of the people who make this forum possible

:thankyou:

I also need to buy 2 plastic ball joints from Belgian guy, but I can´t find it in ebay so, any help will be apreciated

Thanks

[1schoir]

Hello it´s my first message and I want to give my deepest thanks to all of the people who make this forum possible

:thankyou:

I also need to buy 2 plastic ball joints from Belgian guy, but I can´t find it in ebay so, any help will be apreciated

Thanks

PM Sent.

Regards, Maurice.

[ClubPorscheMallorca]

I have a very interesting info for those who have plastic ball joint broken, I finally found this plastic ball cups with ball included at RS Online

http://es.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=7124995

Price is 4,19 € each!!! so it´s very cheap and made it in Germany, this item also has specs sheet

http://docs-europe.electrocomponents.com/webdocs/0e63/0900766b80e63cd1.pdf

So you can check quality and test probes

I hope this can help to others, I fix my roof with this pieces

Bye

[onejstchillin]

Thank you, Maurice. And thank you also for the pm - excellent advice! I will replace the other ball cap now before it also breaks.

Mark

New seller? I bought a few $38.00 w/ shipping vanguard1991

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260722227413&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT

[cheetahmoon]

Are there any suppliers for ball joints in the UK?

Miles

Edited June 12, 2011 by cheetahmoon

[1schoir]

Are there any suppliers for ball joints in the UK?

Miles

Miles:

Not AFAIK.

There is one in the Netherlands.

PM me if you would like his coordinates.

Be very careful to not operate the top with "dangling" front pushrods (i.e., pushrods that result from their respective plastic ball cup breaking apart). A dangling pushrod will invetably cause a tear or rip in the foam drain tray, that will cause water to get into the passenger cabin, where it will promptly fry the Immobilizer (under the driver's seat, or in your case, IIRC, under the passenger seat :eek:)

Regards, Maurice.