Driver Side Window Not Working _ Tried almost every solution

[1schoir]

Do you know where this "black right side" relay is located? I only checked the white relay located under the driver side footwell. Does anyone have a 97 boxster relay diagram?

I have a 97 Boxster relay diagram (both the footwell relay carrier and the rear trunk relay panel #2) and I don't see any "black right side" relay that is related to the power windows.

What is the position of the white relay you checked?

Also, the fuse diagram for MY97 shows fuse D1 as a 30 amp fuse for the power windows.

Regards, Maurice.

[97boxsterred]

Maurice,

I think there is only one relay for windows. Its the white one on the left next to the large double relay which is for the convertible top. I don't know why the wiring diagram shows two relays and they have one labeled white and the other labeled black. Strange.. Anyways I will report back after checking the door pins.

Thanks everyone for your help.. I feel like we are close to solving this problem.

[juniinc]

only 1 relay for 97. diagram I provided is for 2000 and up model.

Maurice,

I think there is only one relay for windows. Its the white one on the left next to the large double relay which is for the convertible top. I don't know why the wiring diagram shows two relays and they have one labeled white and the other labeled black. Strange.. Anyways I will report back after checking the door pins.

Thanks everyone for your help.. I feel like we are close to solving this problem.

Edited December 14, 2007 by juniinc

[97boxsterred]

I finally got this driver side door pin open and this is what i found. Some wires look terrible, with green stuff there and this lower red wire just popped out by itself.

Any thoughts, and what do I do next.

Thanks.

[97boxsterred]

only 1 relay for 97. diagram I provided is for 2000 and up model.

Maurice,

I think there is only one relay for windows. Its the white one on the left next to the large double relay which is for the convertible top. I don't know why the wiring diagram shows two relays and they have one labeled white and the other labeled black. Strange.. Anyways I will report back after checking the door pins.

Thanks everyone for your help.. I feel like we are close to solving this problem.

[97boxsterred]

You guys were RIGHT!!! We found the problem...

That one lower wire that popped out was toasted, the front of it just fell off, and the pins looks terrible.

Now what is the next step.

[97boxsterred]

ANOTHER PICTURE

Edited December 14, 2007 by 97boxsterred

[1schoir]

ANOTHER PICTURE

Those two sides of the connector do look pretty horrible, from a corrosion point of view.

Considering the condition of the pins, it would be best to pull the pins out one by one (both the male and the female sides) and clean them with a small wire brush (or a dremel with a soft wire brush attachment), and then coat them with an electrical contact cleaner/protector such as DeOxit and DeOxit Gold. They are available as a kit at Radio Shack.

To pull the pins out, you are going to need a proper pin removal tool. Without the proper tool, the pins and the connectors will get mangled and you will get very frustrated. Here is a website that covers electrical connector removal principles and it shows how you insert the tool, etc. Take a look at Principle #3, it may be the one for this type of connector and its pins: http://www.tkr-tools.de/online-katalog/entriege.htm

Also, here is a website that sells pin removal tools: http://www.toolsource.com/wire-terminal-tool-p-67231.html

If you don't want to go to the trouble to remove the pins, you could try to clean both the male pins and the female pins while they are still in place, but that would not be the best approach.

Finally, you are also going to have to re-connect that one red wire into its proper pin, and when you are all done, you have to make sure to provide a proper seal for that connector so that you don't get this corrosion again. If you can't or don't want to replace the connector, maybe a thin bead of silicone around the perimeter of the connector's mating face will do the trick.

Regards, Maurice.

Edited December 14, 2007 by 1schoir

[Tool Pants]

My first question was to ask if the car was built prior to May 1997, and it was. Can I say I told you so....

Porsche issued a bulletin on how to repair this situation, but if you go to the link to the 986 forum it sounded like that fix is the expensive way to go. It has been a long time since I looked at the door connector pins, but I think the Sir Tools pin removal tool that we use to retrofit litronics might fit the male and female door pins.

One thing I do remember is that there was not much room to work on that connector. You might take the door off. I have never taken a door off but I have seen off at the dealership. Then you will have room to work on the pins and wires.

[juniinc]

Im glad u figured it out now, I told u!

Edited December 15, 2007 by juniinc

[Loren]

Im glad u figured it out now, I told u!

Uh...

RFM told him on Nov 9th http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...ost&p=84787

Tool Pants told him on Nov 9th http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...ost&p=84826

and I told him on Dec 13th http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...ost&p=87949

But as long as he gets it fixed... who cares...

[juniinc]

LOL

[Tool Pants]

Here are the female pins that I have in mind that might be the same as the door connector female pins. I do not have a picture of the matching male pins. These female pins are used for a litronic retrofit, but I have seen these pins used throughout the car on other connectors.

If you stick the end of a drill bit into the female pin and tell me the inside diameter of the pin then I will know if it is the same pin, and the tool to remove them.

I would have been the first to tell him, but I needed to know the build date first. :P

But in fairness, he was not able to open the connector to check the condition of the pins.

[97boxsterred]

I want to thank Tool Pants, Juniinc, Loren, Maurice and everyone else who helped figure this out. I know you all told me to check this, but the screw wouldn't turn, the head got stripped, and it took me another 2 hours today to first try to unscrew it (very slow process) and then I finally cut off the head with a dremel.

It looks like the moisture rusted the screw and its actually still stuck in the door. I tried to fix the car without breaking or scratching anything. This car has been perfect and the only problem it has had in 10 years is the air bag light, the convertible top cable end getting short, and now this window problem. These are all know problems I guess, but this year I decided to work on my car rather than take it to the dealer. So THANK YOU everyone, you have made it very easy and this board is just amazing.

THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU EVERYONE !!!!

[97boxsterred]

The drill bit that fit the female pin is size 3/32.

Where do I purchase new male/female pins, and the tool locally, will Radio Shack or a hardware store have these?

Should I replace all the pins?

Should I purchase a new driver door wire harness or does it look like just changing the pins will fix the problem.

The entire connector looks a little greenish, will cleaning the entire connector with a electrical spray fix this.

The red wire that came off was a little brittle at the end, will just stripping a new front correct this problem.

[Tool Pants]

I have never done this repair. Porsche issued a 9 page bulletin on June 18, 1998, called "Door Wiring Harness Plug Connections." It outlines the repair procedure and has part numbers. You might ask your dealer for a copy, try to find it online, or donate $25 to Renntech and see this and almost all the other bulletins.

Keep in mind that a dealership is not going to play around with corroded pins like a DIYer would. They are cut off and new pins are crimped on.

The female pins in my picture also accepts a 3/32" bit. If you need to replace the pins. The female should be 999 652 568 22. Male 999 652 567 22. These are the part numbers listed in the bulletin.

Then you need the pin removal tool. Search under Sir Tools. The tool in my picture has been discontinued, unless you can find one in stock, or you use the "swiss army" version. I will warn you. I have never removed the round pins from the door connector. But I have removed them from the connectors in the front trunk. The trunk connectors have what is called a secondary lock. In order to remove the pins from the connector with the proper pin removal tool you first need to unlock the back of the connector or the pins will not push out. You slide this lock open with a small screwdriver, put the tool on the pin, then push/pull the pin out. I do not know if the door connector has a similar secondary lock, as I have never tried to remove a round pin from the door connector.

When you start repairing the connector take notes and pictures, because I think this thread is going to end up in the DIY Common Fixes and Repairs section if you do a good job.

Here is a picture of the discontinued tool being used to push out that female pin in one of the front trunk connectors.

[juniinc]

Go pay a visit to a local professional electric supply store(north coast,platt), bu sure to purchase some CRC product( best in the world).

I would after all the hassle u had to go thru.

Edited December 17, 2007 by juniinc

[97boxsterred]

HI,

I was able to pick up a pin removal tool from radio shack Model: 274-223, which is exactly the same size .093 as the Porsche pins. I did a temporary fix of the pins that were completely toast. The red wire had come out of both sides of the plastic connector and I put in new pins that look the same. (these same pins are also on 12volt radio control car batteries, which I have lying around since my childhood days)

I also cleaned out the entire area with electric terminal cleaner spray. MY WINDOW IS FINALLY WORKING.... THANK YOU EVERYONE.

Next step I will order all the new parts , new pins, new plastic pin holder box, new rubber boot, new broken screw............ If anyone can send me the bulletin I would really appreciate it, otherwise I will ask the dealer tomorrow.

[1schoir]

HI,

I was able to pick up a pin removal tool from radio shack Model: 274-223, which is exactly the same size .093 as the Porsche pins. I did a temporary fix of the pins that were completely toast. The red wire had come out of both sides of the plastic connector and I put in new pins that look the same. (these same pins are also on 12volt radio control car batteries, which I have lying around since my childhood days)

I also cleaned out the entire area with electric terminal cleaner spray. MY WINDOW IS FINALLY WORKING.... THANK YOU EVERYONE.

Next step I will order all the new parts , new pins, new plastic pin holder box, new rubber boot, new broken screw............ If anyone can send me the bulletin I would really appreciate it, otherwise I will ask the dealer tomorrow.

Excellent work! Nothing like persistence to arrive at a successful fix. Thanks for the lead on te pin removal tool.

When you get all the parts, please post the part numbers here for future reference.

Regard, Maurice.

[97boxsterred]

FYI: The dealer wants $650 for each door to perform the bulletin. Its basically replacing any pin that is damaged ($1 part) and putting a new rubber boot that has a vent pipe. TOTAL $1300, Outrageous!!

[fitsintite]

Hi Guys,

Thanks to this thread I solved my drivers side window not working.

Culprit was the junction box electrical contacts in the door, same as above rusted and disconnected from female pins.

Took me only 1 hour to fix the problem thanks to you great guys.

Thanks Thanks Thanks Thanks Thanks Thanks Thanks Thanks Thanks Thanks Thanks Thanks Thanks Thanks Thanks Thanks Thanks Thanks Thanks

[Jinster]

Just as a PSA, I think TP made a mistake with the part numbers. I keep receiving sockets (female) from the dealer when I order what is supposed to be the pin (male).

 

Looking at the service bulletin again, the correct male part of that wiring connection is 999 652 571 22.

 

Both part numbers TP listed were female, perhaps with different length to the sockets. It took me multiple phone calls and lots of head scratching at the dealer to figure this one out.