Driver Side Window Not Working _ Tried almost every solution

[1schoir]

Hi,

How do I fix a bad ground?

" If the 12V signal did go on and off when u pressed the window switch it;s probably bad ground!"

To fix a bad ground, you first have to identify the ground wire in question, then test it end to end with an ohmeter to be sure there is no (internal or external) break in the wire. Following that, you must clean (emery cloth or sandpaper) the pin, eye, or cable lug on each end of the ground wire and, finally clean the point where the ground wire attaches to the body by removing any paint or corrosion.

To help determine whether you have a bad ground, just substitute a new length of wire from the point where the old wire end connects to the motor or switch and then connect the other end to a known good ground.

Regards, Maurice.

[97boxsterred]

"Have you opened the door connector yet to check the condition of the pins?"

I tried to unscrew that one screw that holds that black boot door connector wire harness assembly. however it looks the that screw is a little stripped, so now I am in deep trouble. Any advice on how to get this screw (torx screw) to open... I need to check the wire terminals to make sure no moisture is getting in this area.

[97boxsterred]

UPDATE:

Since I couldn't get the new window motor to spin even after using the wiring diagram and applying 12 volt, I decided to send it back to the Porsche Dealer and have them check it. The dealer's main Porsche mechanic took out his own wiring diagram and attached the ground and 12v to the correct motor pins and could not get it to spin.

Now the mechanic says because there are so many other pins that act like switches, he is not sure if the motor can be tested like this. He thinks the only way to test it is to plug it into a car.

Does this sound correct to you guys?

[rsfeller]

I have not been following this since the early posts but there is no question you can always test a window motor by applying 12v directly to it. always!

[97boxsterred]

Ok Here is an update. Since the new motor did not spin I got another new motor and that did not spin also. So the problem is somewhere else. I figured out what all the terminal pins are in the wire harness, they are numbered on the black plastic connector, and tested all the pins. It looks like the problem can be on the comfort open/close function. However the little microswitch on the door handle is only for when you open the door and the window drops a little bit, so where is the switch for when you put the key in the door lock and turn it left or right to open/close the windows?

[vizcarra44]

Term 31 is ground.

Term 30 is unswitched power (+12 volts)

Like someone said, check the door jam pins and also check the alarm module under the seat. check the connectors for corrosion and unplug the fuse on the module and reinsert the fuse. Now regarding the checking of the wiring and the motor. I would first connect the connecter to the motor and back probe the following pins: Pin 6 for permanent ground

Pin 7 for B+ and pin 3 for a switched ground signal when pushing the window switch for window down. Pin 4 for window up and the ohm meter should show continuity when you push the switch in the up position. Now to physically test the motor use the right type of jumper wires because if you get these jumper wire alligator clips to touch you can fry a good motor. I made a set of jumper leads that were actually female pins that fit snuggly onto the male pins of the motor, but if you cant get these wires just be careful with alligator clips. remember to supply a ground to pin 6 and power to pin 7 and ground pin 3 or 4 to make the motor work in either direction.

vizcarra44

[97boxsterred]

I used the durametric software and this is what it says, please help solve this window problem.

1) P1602 Code 108 Supply Voltage (Open Circuit)

I also had this airbag light on about 2 months previous to this window problem.

2) Code 45 Belt Buckle Driver.

[Loren]

I used the durametric software and this is what it says, please help solve this window problem.

1) P1602 Code 108 Supply Voltage (Open Circuit)

I also had this airbag light on about 2 months previous to this window problem.

2) Code 45 Belt Buckle Driver.

Those codes have nothing to do with the window problem.

P1602 says you disconnected your battery.

Code 45 is a an airbag light code. It says your divers side buckle has a poor connection. Either replace the buckles and remake the grounds (per the TSB) or try and get lucky with some spray contact cleaner.

[97boxsterred]

I want to confirm if there is only one relay for both windows, the white one near the footwell. Also when I press the passenger side window switch I hear a click but on on the driver side window switch this doesn't happen. What does the click sound come from and could it be the cause of the problem?

[juniinc]

Click noise is caused by magnetic coil making a contact inside of your relay. That is what you want to hear. If u hear a click noise that means relay is working properly(engaging). But as u said, this doesn't happen with the switch on the driver's side, then u got a problem with your driver's side switch,wiring,possible defective driver's side relay contact?

C

I want to confirm if there is only one relay for both windows, the white one near the footwell. Also when I press the passenger side window switch I hear a click but on on the driver side window switch this doesn't happen. What does the click sound come from and could it be the cause of the problem?

[97boxsterred]

Hi,

I just tested the relay with a 12v source and also put in a new relay, so that didn't solve the problem. I also took out the window switch between the seats and tried the drivers side switch in the passenger side and it works fine. I then tested both of the wire harness and they both are getting 12v in the same places.. The only thing is the on the two light blue/brown (appears white/brown in photo) wires on the right hand side of the picture don't have 12v, what are they for?

What should I do next to figure this out?

[juniinc]

Here is a 986 power window wiring diagram-

OK, brown wire is #3 contact on the left side switch jumped from the right side #3 contact.

GR/BL/RE would be the contact #5 on the left switch jumped from passenger switch and also junctioned with led indicator.

I believe U r supposed to have 12V + on a #3 BRN wire. I would check the passenger side #3 & #5 wires first see what they meter at first.

If u get a 12+signal on your passenger side #3 or #5 contact then u got a short in that BRN wire in some where.

Alos U should check all your 8 contacts on the motor side(door pins), when sw is up U should be able to read 12+ on #4 GR/PK contact when its down 12+ on #3 GR/BRcontact.

with this wiring diagram U should be able to trace it no problem! Try to do it section at a time. Play with ur switch, meter all 8 contacts or 2(up,down)on your door pin(w/door open)then closed the door w/ door panel removed, then meter those 2 contacts(up,down) again. Just because I'm SUSPECTING your door pins!

I got my $ on it almost 90%. LOL

if this pix isn't easy to read, PM me I'll email u .

good luck

Edited December 14, 2007 by juniinc

[Tool Pants]

Have you been able to check the condition of the door connector pins since your last attempt?

[juniinc]

make sure your motor is well grounded too . it's supposed to be chase grounded.

[97boxsterred]

Have you been able to check the condition of the door connector pins since your last attempt?

Sorry Toolpants, you have been asking about this but the screw that holds the connector in the door frame got stripped (torx screw) and I have been trying to unscrew it (cut a line in it with dremel tool to get a philips head) and I got it to turn but it keeps on turning without any noticeable loosening of the black connector holder from the door. I will keep on trying to get this out,

[Loren]

Hmm... did you think to look at the electrical contacts in the door (hinge side) connector?

[juniinc]

looking at it isn't enough.He actually needs to meter those 2 door pins(#3,4) then problem solved.

[97boxsterred]

Junniic,

This is how I got 12v on both wire harness that go to the window switches. Both wires for left and right hand side windows showed the same readings.

If you look at the yellow connector as reference, I used a multimeter and placed RED to center terminal with Brown/Green wire and Black to either outside Brown wire or Red/Blue produced 12 volts. The two outside white color wires didn't show anything on both harnesses.

[juniinc]

2 white wires not supposed to show anything unless your switch is engaged. those would be your switched legs - up+ & down+(goes all the way to door pin #3,4). Try this- press the sw up position then u r supposed to get 12+ one of those 2 white wires u described, and also SW down then U r supposed to get a 12+ on the other White wire. In this case your power is fine.

But if u don't ,u need to go back. I'm thinking ur switch is fine.

red/blue wires is only supposed to get a 12+ when ur cluster light is on,u might also want to meter this wire too w/ your lights on.

Junniic,

This is how I got 12v on both wire harness that go to the window switches. Both wires for left and right hand side windows showed the same readings.

If you look at the yellow connector as reference, I used a multimeter and placed RED to center terminal with Brown/Green wire and Black to either outside Brown wire or Red/Blue produced 12 volts. The two outside white color wires didn't show anything on both harnesses.

Edited December 14, 2007 by juniinc

[97boxsterred]

juniinc

So you think the problem is in the door pins, the black connector in the door hinge. See picture which toolpants put up early in the post. I have been trying to get this unscrewed in my car for over a week,, it got stripped. I think I will just break the screw off and report back tomorrow.

[juniinc]

I know I knida took a glace at this from the beginning.

did u meter those 2 white wires? if they r fine, then we need to move to your door pins.

I think U can still meter those door pins the way they r. just get good grounding to ur tester.

juniinc

So you think the problem is in the door pins, the black connector in the door hinge. See picture which toolpants put up early in the post. I have been trying to get this unscrewed in my car for over a week,, it got stripped. I think I will just break the screw off and report back tomorrow.

Edited December 14, 2007 by juniinc

[97boxsterred]

Yeh the switches are fine, the white wires have power when you press the switch. I will check the door pins tomorrow when I get the screw off.

Looking at the wiring diagram you gave, are there two relays, one is labeled "white left side" and the other is labeled "black right side". Someone had said there is only the White relay for windows, located next to the double-relay near the driver side fuse box. So where is the black right side relay, I want to check that also.

[juniinc]

yes I believe so. And ther is only 1 door contact switch per door. Anyhow thats also a good news since your power is fine once u get the door pins off -meter those bottom 8 pins . I bet u r fine on your male side.

So most likely u r gonna have to check the wires by the motor. then definitely ur pin is not making a proper contact. that's it!

Yeh the switches are fine, the white wires have power when you press the switch. I will check the door pins tomorrow when I get the screw off.

Looking at the wiring diagram you gave, are there two relays, one is labeled "white left side" and the other is labeled "black right side". Someone had said there is only the White relay for windows, located next to the double-relay near the driver side fuse box. So where is the black right side relay, I want to check that also.

Edited December 14, 2007 by juniinc

[97boxsterred]

Do you know where this "black right side" relay is located? I only checked the white relay located under the driver side footwell. Does anyone have a 97 boxster relay diagram?

[juniinc]

i would check the male side of those 8pins first! switch needs to be engaged.

If u r not getting a 12v(+) then u definitely got a bad driver's side relay. I thought they were all in same location?

Do you know where this "black right side" relay is located? I only checked the white relay located under the driver side footwell. Does anyone have a 97 boxster relay diagram?