Clutch wear and feel

[atld]

Gents,

I've recently acquired a 2005 Boxster with 3800 mi pre-owned from a well respected dealer.

Knowing this car has a hydraulic clutch that self-adjusts for wear, what are the signs of clutch wear or failure. I should not be anywhere near the point where I should have to worry about clutch wear but my concern is that the clutch grabs very late when I destroke the pedal and would like to know if that is normal. The clutch does not slip and it has a good feel, but I was used to some cars that start grabbing after very little pedal movement; the boxster seems to require significant pedal movement. It will feather starting at ½ stroke, but does not really grab until I practically take my foot off. If I depress the pedal just a bit, the clutch also immediately disengages. I'm a conservative driver, don't race etc.

Additioanlly, knowing that there is no good answer, just wondering out of curiosity what people have been getting life-wise from these clutches. The 986 has been known to have "poor" life. Is the 987 the same way? Is the disc organic or ceramic? Expense to replace?

Thanks

[White987S]

My 987S grabs right away, Certainly well before 1/2 way. I have just over 17,000 miles. There was a recent Thread about life-span, so do a search, and you will see some good info.

[White987S]

Atld, there is some good info here:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...8&hl=clutch

[atld]

Atld, there is some good info here:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...8&hl=clutch

I've seen that one already but it refers to the 986. Anyone have this type of experience with the 987?

Now I am becoming more concerned with the late clutch engagement.

Thanks

[White987S]

Atld, there is some good info here:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...8&hl=clutch

I've seen that one already but it refers to the 986. Anyone have this type of experience with the 987?

Now I am becoming more concerned with the late clutch engagement.

Thanks

Take it back to the dealership where you made the purchase. I think there is an adjustment that can be done to the catch-point.

[berty987]

Clutch biting point seems to vary on the 987S. My clutch was replaced at 30 k miles but it was not worn and the biting point was on the last half of the clutch pedal travel. The new clutch had the same biting point , so i wouldn't worry about the exact point on the travel. From what I've read , it may have more to do with the clutch slave cylinder , I would suggest getting the slave cylinder fixings checked and the clutch system bled as ther have been issues with clutch slip due to air locks and poorly fastened slave cylinders on the cayman forum. The fact my clutch would slip on a fast start , but the lining and cover plate looked ok when removed suggests that the slave cylinder may be a more likely fault for clutch biting points etc.

[White987S]

Clutch biting point seems to vary on the 987S. My clutch was replaced at 30 k miles but it was not worn and the biting point was on the last half of the clutch pedal travel. The new clutch had the same biting point , so i wouldn't worry about the exact point on the travel. From what I've read , it may have more to do with the clutch slave cylinder , I would suggest getting the slave cylinder fixings checked and the clutch system bled as ther have been issues with clutch slip due to air locks and poorly fastened slave cylinders on the cayman forum. The fact my clutch would slip on a fast start , but the lining and cover plate looked ok when removed suggests that the slave cylinder may be a more likely fault for clutch biting points etc.

Berty987, was it covered under warranty?

[RFM]

The pressure plate is a special construction with a automatic adjusting system witch compensate the thickness off the clutch plate during his live, to maintain the biting point at the same possition, worn or new. It is not possible to reset the pressure plate what means that the pressure plate and the clutch plate have to be changed as a unit ( 997 - 987 )

Perhaps that you find out the problem in this area, the biting point is approx. 1/4 travel. Slave or other cylinders have nothing to do with clutch slip.

Regards.

[berty987]

Slave or other cylinders have nothing to do with clutch slip.

Regards.

However , if the slave cylinder is not aligned correctly then the slave cylinder can stick and does not release fully or quickly enough. The result is the flywheel spins on the friction plate giving slip. There is plenty of doucumented evidence to suggest air locked clutch hydraulics and badly fitted slave cylinders can cause clutch slip over on the cayman forum. In my case as in those on the cayman forum , the pedal felt as though it had not returned fully when the clutch slip was experienced. Sorry RFM , but I disagree with your comment , as having replaced the clutch with a new item , the biteing point is still at the same high point. The removed clutch and flywheel do not look worn out or damaged to an extent of causing the slippage I experienced. None of the parts were covered under warranty , so ripping out a clutch on a low mileage car , would I suggest , be a last resort. Checking the operation of the slave cylinder and bleeding/ renewing the clutch hydraulics is a far cheaper option as a first action to cure the problem.

Edited November 2, 2007 by berty987

[RFM]

Pressure plate not flywheel. I hope that you can solved the problem, let us informed.

[atld]

Thanks folks for the opinions.

I will talk to the dealer next time I have the car serviced. That will be in Dec. I'll let you know what turns up. Thanks again.

[PTEC]

The pressure plate is a special construction with a automatic adjusting system witch compensate the thickness off the clutch plate during his live, to maintain the biting point at the same possition, worn or new. It is not possible to reset the pressure plate what means that the pressure plate and the clutch plate have to be changed as a unit ( 997 - 987 )

Perhaps that you find out the problem in this area, the biting point is approx. 1/4 travel. Slave or other cylinders have nothing to do with clutch slip.

Regards.

This is actually only featured on the 997S. His 987 clutch is the same style as the 986 ones. Either way if it really isn't grabbing until your foot is practically off the pedal it sounds like there is a problem. A high bite point and or a stiff pedal are the two signs of a worn clutch and its completely possible for the previous owner to have worn it out in 3000 miles. However there are other causes for a high bite point (hydraulic) as other people have mentioned. If you take it in for service they should be able to tell you pretty soon if you have a problem or not as the service guys drive the cars all day long so they know what the normal feel is.

[atld]

now I'm suddenly more depressed. :(

Edited November 22, 2007 by atld

[berty987]

Take a look at the LUK web site regarding clutch diagnosis here : http://159.51.238.62/remotemedien/media/_s...nose_PKW_en.pdf

Test your clutch as per the instructions and put your mind at rest. As you can see from MY posts I have a brand new (under 5 K miles ) clutch in my 987 boxster S. The biting point is unchanged from where it was before the clutch was changed and is still on the second half of the clutch travel. Reading the post from PTC , there is obviously no automatic adjustment on the clutch. As to the clutch types , the 987 now uses the same clutch as was used on the 986 , only the 987S with the six speed gearbox (or 2.7 fitted with 6 speed) uses the new clutch assembly. The friction plate is the same as used in the cayman, but the cover plate is not so highly sprung. The OEM cayman cover plate is referenced in the sachs parts list as the upgrade or heavy duty application for the 987S boxster. The other further upgrade is the hand built performance clutch which uses a completely different design of cover plate and upgraded friction material on the linings , complimented by an upgraded release bearing. If your clutch does need doing , then personally i'd spend the extra having either the performance clutch or the cayman cover plate fitted. I purchased an origianl Sachs clutch kit for a little over 200 UK pounds , fitting was about 6 hours at a local independant.

I replaced my clutch because of slip , but the friction material , cover plate and flywheel all looked though there was no undue wear - certainly not worn out. As in earlier posts I would stress that the clutch can have a delay in taking up , or a high biting point due to the hydraulics either being air locked , or the slave cylinder sticking. Both are documented faults and relatively cheap to fix compared to a new clutch. Like you , I read around on the subject of clutch life and the normal expectancy seems to be 60-80k. Certainly looking at the friction material on my 26k clutch that was removed , I would agree with that statement. If you ride the clutch in traffic on a daily basis , or do a lot of track work , i would expect a corresponding drop in expected clutch life.

Edited November 22, 2007 by berty987

[atld]

Thanks; that's some great informaiton. I'd agree that when clutch replacement time comes, I'll look into upgrading the components.

Thanks,

ATLD