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New Rear Window Installed

juniinc
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juniinc Member

juniinc

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Good point!

Let's not confuse two separate issues here.

It is involved and complicated to remove the convertible top from the frame and install another.

It is quick and easy to remove the convertible top with the frame and to reinstall it.

The people that are having problems are universally trying to do the former, not the latter.

djomlas Member

djomlas

Posted
Posted
Let's not confuse two separate issues here.

It is involved and complicated to remove the convertible top from the frame and install another.

It is quick and easy to remove the convertible top with the frame and to reinstall it.

The people that are having problems are universally trying to do the former, not the latter.

yes, good point.

i just want to replace the plastic window, not the top itself

juniinc Member

juniinc

Posted
  • Author
Posted

TINTED window kit is now available by juniinc.

so then would it be easier to take the frame off as well, and then sew in a new one?

btw, anyone make the rear plastic piece tinted, or is just clear available?

  • 2 weeks later...
juniinc Member

juniinc

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Customer dropped his car off about 2 PM to get his rear window done-99 Boxster S Midnight blue. So I thought to keep this post goin-

Many ppl asked which is eaier to do:with the top on? or off? However this time it was donw with the top off and JUKI machine stitched in instead of hand stititchin!

I believe how to remove your top was pretty well explained by rsfeller & 1schoir!

post-23680-1194584235_thumb.jpgclamshell at 45 degrees, back cables detached- just pop it out

post-23680-1194584274_thumb.jpg3 large bolts needs to be removed to diengage the push bar

post-23680-1194584296_thumb.jpgopposite side? LOL

Edited by juniinc
juniinc Member

juniinc

Posted
  • Author
Posted

To be continued-

post-23680-1194584806_thumb.jpgEasy to short these wires. must disconnect em .

post-23680-1194584831_thumb.jpgTopless boxster! I like it.

post-23680-1194585006_thumb.jpgTime to sew a new one in

  • 3 months later...
gandrade1 Member

gandrade1

Posted
Posted
I've seen some guys took more than a week to trying to figure it out. Even though I've done my fair share of converting tops I just had some bad experience with it.

Shawn

Those guys must have had a learning disability then. We had our frame off in 10 minutes and back on in 15 minutes doing it twice as I had not bent a part back into shape correctly the first time. I believe you have 3 bolts each side and they are self centering so there is not "sweet spot" you have to find for the top to fit. Where they unbolt is where they go back. There was no need for a left/right cable adjustment either.

Including the cam arms it's 10 times easier then any other convertible I've ever taken off.

Maybe the 2nd generation boxsters are more difficult but not the first gen.

Shawn

Do you have instructions (a posting here) on how to do it?

Thanks,

Gus

  • 7 months later...
BikerDrew Member

BikerDrew

Posted
Posted

My only questions to all those who have done this job is: Does it leak? How did you seal the window to the canvas? Thanks for the reply in advance. :P

juniinc Member

juniinc

Posted
  • Author
Posted

no leak what so ever.

liquid seam sealer works great.

post-23680-1225661548.jpg

My only questions to all those who have done this job is: Does it leak? How did you seal the window to the canvas? Thanks for the reply in advance. :P
flipper Member

flipper

Posted
Posted (edited)

Ok, I had to order the kit off of ebay from the miata guy back in October. I tried to get ahold of junniinc but he was away till a few days ago. The kit off ebay is a joke. The only thing you can use in the kit is the plastic and the thread. The instructions are so over photocopied that you cannot see the pics. I asked for a better copy and he said he did not have one.....?

Anyway, I wish I could have ordered the kit from junniinc.

Now, I have a few ?s

I have removed the frame and top, cut the new window, marked the top and bottom center, lined up the old window with the new and poked the same holes in. Should I have poked the holes in? I am usng the 2 needle method and it took 2 hours to go 12 inches. Am I missing something? Is there a way to use my sewing machine with the top still on the frame?

Also, can I add the seam sealer after it is sewn together?

Help please!!!!! :)

Shawn

Edited by flipper
juniinc Member

juniinc

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

this could be a long process, time consuming.

I recommend U to get a partner to help on the other side.

A few times I've sewn in with the frame on it,,, unless u are a professional upholsterer this can be very difficult.

U will need to remove the canvas bottom piece.

detached top

post-23680-1225928893_thumb.jpg

bottom piece removed

post-23680-1225928952_thumb.jpg

JUKI time

post-23680-1225928979_thumb.jpg

Edited by juniinc
flipper Member

flipper

Posted
Posted

What a pain in the tush that was. :lol:

I finally finished the window. (hand sewed it)

when I went to put the top back on the car, my motors on either side of the car have gotten about one tooth off from each other so one side actuates first.

I have no idea how to get it back to normal.

After i removed the top, out of curiosity I closed the clamshell and I think that is where the problem started.

I dont quite know what to do. It works, just not like it did before. :(

Shawn

1schoir Member

1schoir

Posted
Posted
What a pain in the tush that was. :lol:

I finally finished the window. (hand sewed it)

when I went to put the top back on the car, my motors on either side of the car have gotten about one tooth off from each other so one side actuates first.

I have no idea how to get it back to normal.

After i removed the top, out of curiosity I closed the clamshell and I think that is where the problem started.

I dont quite know what to do. It works, just not like it did before. :(

Shawn

Shawn:

Push the top button unitl you get the clamshell at its rearmost (45 degree) position, then pull either one of the drive cables out of the side of the electric motor and insert the inner (speedometer type) cable into the chuck of your cordless drill. Set the torque to the lowest setting and spin the cable in the appropriate direction so that one side of your top "catches up" with the other side.

Re-insert the cable into the side of the electric motor and replace the upside-down u-shaped clip and test the top. If it's not exactly correct, make another adjustment by spinning the cable again in the direction that will correct it.

If you are not sure how to pull out the cable from the side of the electric motor do a search here and you'll find more detailed instructions with photos.

Good job on sewing in the window! If you have before and after pics you could post, we'd all appreciate it.

Regards, Maurice.

  • 3 months later...
urban_legend Member

urban_legend

Posted
Posted

Some confusion in this thread:

- do you take the top off with the frame and then take this to have the window sowed in

- or do you take the top off with out the frame

Looking for best way for DIY.

rsfeller Member

rsfeller

Posted
Posted
Some confusion in this thread:

- do you take the top off with the frame and then take this to have the window sowed in

- or do you take the top off with out the frame

Looking for best way for DIY.

I don't think there is any confusion in what I am talking about, as I clearly say I took the frame assembly off the car and took it to my repair guy. You could very easily take the soft top off the frame too, but if you are going to go to that trouble then simply cough up $600 for a new top and put it back on yourself.

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