Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Hello everyone. This is Juniinc.

It seems to me many of us are having a issue w/ damaged rear window. I would like to contribute some of my recent work.

This week's project was tackling my torn out ,yellow stained rear window . So I finally brought her to my shop .

First I almost ordered a kit but after a few phone calls were made I realize that I can actually get the better stuff from locally.

So I decided to make my own window kit. and it is much more flexible, thicker than the factory one.

Estimated installation time is about 6-8 hours with the top on. If you haven't done this process with the top being on before, I recommend you to do it with the top off!

Keep in mind it is really tight behind the roll bar, especially when you try to stitch the bottom.

With the top off you should be able to accomplish the job in a few hours

post-23680-1191800414_thumb.jpgHood with old broken window

post-23680-1191800400_thumb.jpgPerfect Canvas with old window

post-23680-1191800487_thumb.jpgroof latch wasn't even closed,tight! Shows the tightness of the stitching

post-23680-1191800505_thumb.jpgshe is finally done

post-23680-1191800425_thumb.jpg

post-23680-1191800471_thumb.jpg

Edited by juniinc
Posted

Nice. What was the product used, something like strato-glass used on boats? Was it a bear getting the needle and tread through both?

Many have seen my posts as we took the top/frame off my car this summer to fix a "bent" part in the top. It took about 10 minutes to get the top/frame off and on the bench. I saw this as a far easier way to get the needle/thread at the rear window for such a fix as yours.

I would love to know what product you used and how you feel the stitches look.

Shawn

Posted (edited)

Thanks Shawn. we have a pre-cut(28"x58") vinyl strictly designed for this purpose. a guy also told me that it is used on military gas mask. Stitches look better than ever,my old existing thread color was Grey but now its completed w/ black. it is almost invisible.

(

Nice. What was the product used, something like strato-glass used on boats? Was it a bear getting the needle and tread through both?

Many have seen my posts as we took the top/frame off my car this summer to fix a "bent" part in the top. It took about 10 minutes to get the top/frame off and on the bench. I saw this as a far easier way to get the needle/thread at the rear window for such a fix as yours.

I would love to know what product you used and how you feel the stitches look.

Shawn

Edited by juniinc
Posted

Hey.....cracked the back window in my 2000 'S' today and was thinking about getting a glass window replacement top.

You are saying you replaced your plastic window for less than $30?? That's crazy! Did you sew the window in yourself? Where did you buy the plastic replacement window and how did you fit it?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Ashley

Calgary, Canada

Posted (edited)

Hey....... yes I did it myself. You can purchase the material at any automotive upholstery supply store or from me. It is a good weekend project but you will need some hands with it. Here are some tips I recommend. Before you start to detach your old thread, make sure you mark your center point on the top & bottom. Then you want to make a exactly matching template by transferring your old window ,make sure you mark your existing factory stitch marking too.That way your new window will fit tight.

Hey.....cracked the back window in my 2000 'S' today and was thinking about getting a glass window replacement top.

You are saying you replaced your plastic window for less than $30?? That's crazy! Did you sew the window in yourself? Where did you buy the plastic replacement window and how did you fit it?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Ashley

Calgary, Canada

Edited by juniinc
Posted
Hey....... yes I did it myself. You can purchase the material at any automotive upholstery supply store. It is a good weekend project but you will need some hands with it. Here are some tips I recommend. Before you start to detach your old thread, make sure you mark your center point on the top & bottom. Then you want to make a exactly matching template by transferring your old window ,make sure you mark your existing factory stitch marking too.That way your new window will fit tight.

Hey.....cracked the back window in my 2000 'S' today and was thinking about getting a glass window replacement top.

You are saying you replaced your plastic window for less than $30?? That's crazy! Did you sew the window in yourself? Where did you buy the plastic replacement window and how did you fit it?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Ashley

Calgary, Canada

Juniinc:

Great job, with good photos!

If you could compile a avery detailed DIY with additional photos and list of materials, it could be revolutionary.

Regards, Maurice.

  • Moderators
Posted

In California we have a company called TAP Plastics that has the vinyl window material in a roll and sells it by the foot. The Miata ebay also guy sells a kit for BMW/Boxster.

Years ago a guy on the Pelican board bought the vinyl and sewed in a replacement window while the top was still on the car. Hand sewing. He said he took home economics in high school, to meet the girls. These are his pictures when he practiced on a scraps. I took auto shop in high school so this is not a project for me.

The other picture is the kit the Miata guy sells.

post-4-1191874157.jpg

post-4-1191874284.jpg

post-4-1191874330_thumb.jpg

Posted (edited)

Hand sewing this stuff only needs a good needle, pliers and patience. I've practiced on my boat canvas and it's really easy to do by hand. Now running and industrial sewing machine is an art form. Remember taking the frame off and benching it will make it easier to get to the underside too!

Obviously anything is better then the yellowed one it's replacing but keep in mind for the boating world there are many different plastics with different pros/cons. Some flex, some don't...at different thickness (mils). We need to fold in half!

I would tell anyone to try it themselves if they can sew a pair a (tool)pants and have good canvas. Patience will get you a professional look and I agree for less then $50.

FYI that Joanne Fabrics (we have them in the midwest) carries middle grade stuff that will last 3-5 years, I used it to repair side windows on my boat when the guy in the shop by the lake told me $400, I did it for $40. Learned lots too!

Shawn

Edited by rsfeller
Posted (edited)

Emiata sells their stuff for around $100. I've seen their vinyl,wasn't really impressed with it. Yes taking the top off would be easier to sew it in but putting your top back on is the hard part. I've seen some guys took more than a week to trying to figure it out. Even though I've done my fair share of converting tops I just had some bad experience with it.

Hand sewing this stuff only needs a good needle, pliers and patience. I've practiced on my boat canvas and it's really easy to do by hand. Now running and industrial sewing machine is an art form. Remember taking the frame off and benching it will make it easier to get to the underside too!

Obviously anything is better then the yellowed one it's replacing but keep in mind for the boating world there are many different plastics with different pros/cons. Some flex, some don't...at different thickness (mils). We need to fold in half!

I would tell anyone to try it themselves if they can sew a pair a (tool)pants and have good canvas. Patience will get you a professional look and I agree for less then $50.

FYI that Joanne Fabrics (we have them in the midwest) carries middle grade stuff that will last 3-5 years, I used it to repair side windows on my boat when the guy in the shop by the lake told me $400, I did it for $40. Learned lots too!

Shawn

Edited by juniinc
Posted (edited)

LOL I might do that. Thanks Maurice

Hey....... yes I did it myself. You can purchase the material at any automotive upholstery supply store. It is a good weekend project but you will need some hands with it. Here are some tips I recommend. Before you start to detach your old thread, make sure you mark your center point on the top & bottom. Then you want to make a exactly matching template by transferring your old window ,make sure you mark your existing factory stitch marking too.That way your new window will fit tight.

Hey.....cracked the back window in my 2000 'S' today and was thinking about getting a glass window replacement top.

You are saying you replaced your plastic window for less than $30?? That's crazy! Did you sew the window in yourself? Where did you buy the plastic replacement window and how did you fit it?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Ashley

Calgary, Canada

Juniinc:

Great job, with good photos!

If you could compile a avery detailed DIY with additional photos and list of materials, it could be revolutionary.

Regards, Maurice.

Edited by juniinc
Posted
I've seen some guys took more than a week to trying to figure it out. Even though I've done my fair share of converting tops I just had some bad experience with it.

Shawn

Those guys must have had a learning disability then. We had our frame off in 10 minutes and back on in 15 minutes doing it twice as I had not bent a part back into shape correctly the first time. I believe you have 3 bolts each side and they are self centering so there is not "sweet spot" you have to find for the top to fit. Where they unbolt is where they go back. There was no need for a left/right cable adjustment either.

Including the cam arms it's 10 times easier then any other convertible I've ever taken off.

Maybe the 2nd generation boxsters are more difficult but not the first gen.

Shawn

Posted (edited)

Nice photo! Tool Pants .

I can sew on a button, if I can see the holes where the broken thread use to be. Sometimes I used dental floss as the thread. I once tried a stapler for buttons, but it did not work.

This is an example of the top off vinyl repacement if you are in the business.

http://www.kbaggstrimming.co.uk/boxster.htm

Edited by juniinc
Posted

so then would it be easier to take the frame off as well, and then sew in a new one?

btw, anyone make the rear plastic piece tinted, or is just clear available?

Posted
so then would it be easier to take the frame off as well, and then sew in a new one?

btw, anyone make the rear plastic piece tinted, or is just clear available?

Check out eBay. There is someone on there that sells a kit, and he specifically mentions a darker tint available for an additional $10 IIRC.

Regards, Maurice.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

LOL ,,,all depends on who's doin it. I've done it both way.

It is a bit easier to do it with the top off.

thx.

but still my Q remains, is it better to take the whole top off or do it while its on the car?

Edited by juniinc
Posted
thx.

but still my Q remains, is it better to take the whole top off or do it while its on the car?

the top comes off in 10-20 minutes so I say

it's easier 11

Posted
how exactly does the top come off?

Here is the procedure that was spelled out by a poster named "rsfeller" earlier. It's pretty detailed and should give you a good idea of what's involved.

"The roll bar doesn't need to come off to remove and bench the convertible top frame/canvas. There were three bolts and two screws on each side of the top and it lifts right out....took less then 10 minutes to remove and 10 minutes to install. My camera battery was dead so no good photos but the procedure goes something like this.

1. put in service mode with clamshell at 45 degrees, cables off back window and window up. You'll need to remove the arms from the transmission to the push bars. Mine were broken so I didn't have to remove them but the red (or white) end will pop off the ball joint or you can use a allen key to remove the head on the transmission.

2. remove lower B piller trim panel behind seats with the 8mm bolt at the top and the screw at the bottom which is hidden well in my black carpet. This removes the defroster hook up and gives access to the top microswitch on the drivers side. The small connection for the microswitch is near the floor. I had to cut one zip tie too holding the microswitch wire to the roll bar.

3. Take out 3 larger bolts on backside of top frame viewable under rear with glass in service mode position. The manual shows a box covering this with two screws for some type of water protection. My car didn't have this and it looked factory. So Three bolts and two phillips screws. They were very low torque and I found no torque spec for reinstall. The are self centering bolts so no worry about getting the top "just right" on reinstall. Your wife can help you remove or install as the tops weight is very low.

5. Slide top back one inch and lift straight up.

NOTE: I highly recommend using a light clear spray grease (with straw) on all pivot points. After greasing my top I can put it up down with one finger in manual mode. There is no question that greasing a 10 year old top will help all the little aluminum and plastic parts live a long and happy life together.

Installation is a reversal or removal, that simple. If you want to take your top off to get an bent "stuff" (like me) drop me a private message and I'll be happy to coach anyone."

He was kind enough to post this as not too many have gone that route.

Regards, Maurice.

Posted (edited)

Thanks djomlas they look great. I think i'm gonna order those,,,Go take a look at Boxster Top Issues and Solutions-I'm so confused Is the top replacable, plenty of discussion going on there too.

Im starting to sell my tinted plastic window kit on Ebay. LOL

how exactly does the top come off?
Edited by juniinc
Posted

Let's not confuse two separate issues here.

It is involved and complicated to remove the convertible top from the frame and install another.

It is quick and easy to remove the convertible top with the frame and to reinstall it.

The people that are having problems are universally trying to do the former, not the latter.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.