Driver Door Glass Strange Behavior.........

[tah]

I've read a few threads about this problem but my symptoms are a little different so here goes.........

When I open the Driver door the window will drop the 13mm (per Bentley) and then IMMEDIATELY go back up. The Bentley manual is woefully inadequate on helping with this.

First let me stop anyone who will say "you need to replace the regulator", don't think so. Why? Well the windows drop the appropriate amount when disengaging the top, they both also go up and down just fine. The regulator is doing what it's being "told" to do, when it's told to do it.

In the Bentley this 13mm drop is referred to as "comfort open" & "comfort close"

Here's what I'm thinking.........

The computer is being told the door is opening so it drops the window. Then the computer is being told the door is closed so it raises the window immediately. What I can't figure out (yet) is what tells the computer this. Are there tiny switches in the latch mechanism and one of them is sticking?

I will solve this, but who knows how much time it will take. Anyone with a little more knowledge in this area who can help?

Thanks, Tim

FWIW: 97 Boxster

Edited September 29, 2007 by tah

[rsfeller]

If it is fully going up and not sloppy, you are correct that the regulator has most likely not had the common fray failure, yet...

There is another post going on in the last week similar to yours with a guy stating his lights and other items don't act like they got the "close signal". Although Bentley has no details on such a switch one can assume there is a switch in the door catch or the lock assembly handles multiple tasks. Do the same test I told this other guy. Open your door and using and object such as a screw driver (or your finger!) and push in the door striker catch that grabs around the pin. Note it has two positions and you must push hard to get it to engage as it would around the pin to trigger the window drop signal. Note if the behavior is the same as your concern and check to see if the concern effects your lights. I'm quite sure it has nothing to do with computer systems controlling this system as there is a door lock mechanism that most likely is triggered by the striker assembly to figure out. NOTE: You must open the door from the outside handle to open the striker claw back up or your door will not close properly!

It has been a year since I had more door apart for a window repair so I'm rusty on what is going on in the lock area, but as I told the guy with a similar issue the door inner cover comes off easy. If you are good with troubleshooting and a multi-test get to it. I'm sure you will find a funky switch or a shorted/chaffed wire. If it's that lock assembly get on ebay and find a used one!

Send me a private message as I may have a document you are interested in to compliment the Bentley.

Shawn

[juniinc]

I've read a few threads about this problem but my symptoms are a little different so here goes.........

When I open the Driver door the window will drop the 13mm (per Bentley) and then IMMEDIATELY go back up. The Bentley manual is woefully inadequate on helping with this.

First let me stop anyone who will say "you need to replace the regulator", don't think so. Why? Well the windows drop the appropriate amount when disengaging the top, they both also go up and down just fine. The regulator is doing what it's being "told" to do, when it's told to do it.

In the Bentley this 13mm drop is referred to as "comfort open" & "comfort close"

Here's what I'm thinking.........

The computer is being told the door is opening so it drops the window. Then the computer is being told the door is closed so it raises the window immediately. What I can't figure out (yet) is what tells the computer this. Are there tiny switches in the latch mechanism and one of them is sticking?

I will solve this, but who knows how much time it will take. Anyone with a little more knowledge in this area who can help?

Thanks, Tim

FWIW: 97 Boxster

There are 2 micro switches in your driver's side door for your inner & outter handle.

attatched to your door handle(back side)

[juniinc]

I've read a few threads about this problem but my symptoms are a little different so here goes.........

When I open the Driver door the window will drop the 13mm (per Bentley) and then IMMEDIATELY go back up. The Bentley manual is woefully inadequate on helping with this.

First let me stop anyone who will say "you need to replace the regulator", don't think so. Why? Well the windows drop the appropriate amount when disengaging the top, they both also go up and down just fine. The regulator is doing what it's being "told" to do, when it's told to do it.

In the Bentley this 13mm drop is referred to as "comfort open" & "comfort close"

Here's what I'm thinking.........

The computer is being told the door is opening so it drops the window. Then the computer is being told the door is closed so it raises the window immediately. What I can't figure out (yet) is what tells the computer this. Are there tiny switches in the latch mechanism and one of them is sticking?

I will solve this, but who knows how much time it will take. Anyone with a little more knowledge in this area who can help?

Thanks, Tim

FWIW: 97 Boxster

There are 2 micro switches in your driver's side door for your inner & outter handle.

attatched to your door handle(back side)

Porsche_Boxster___Removing_Door_Panels.htm

[1schoir]

I've read a few threads about this problem but my symptoms are a little different so here goes.........

When I open the Driver door the window will drop the 13mm (per Bentley) and then IMMEDIATELY go back up. The Bentley manual is woefully inadequate on helping with this.

First let me stop anyone who will say "you need to replace the regulator", don't think so. Why? Well the windows drop the appropriate amount when disengaging the top, they both also go up and down just fine. The regulator is doing what it's being "told" to do, when it's told to do it.

In the Bentley this 13mm drop is referred to as "comfort open" & "comfort close"

Here's what I'm thinking.........

The computer is being told the door is opening so it drops the window. Then the computer is being told the door is closed so it raises the window immediately. What I can't figure out (yet) is what tells the computer this. Are there tiny switches in the latch mechanism and one of them is sticking?

I will solve this, but who knows how much time it will take. Anyone with a little more knowledge in this area who can help?

Thanks, Tim

FWIW: 97 Boxster

Tim:

Here is a decent photo of the microswitch that is tripped by pulling/releasing the outer door handle (driver's side door) :

I hope it might give you some perspective.

Regards, Maurice.

[RFM]

A faulty in the lock mechanism built in switch is most common.

[Glyn]

First look at the microswitch just inside the door handle, it has a metal piece that hinges over the switch and when you pull the door handle the inner plastic extension of the handle pushes down on the metal which in turn activates the switch, with the inner door panel rmoved and the door open use a screwdriver to to close the door lock (simply put the shaft of the screwdriver in the part where the door latch on the B post would fit and push the mechanism to the lock position,) The glass should now raise to its full height.

Put your hand inside the door slightly above the lock and locate this microswitch - activate it by pressing down the metal cover - the window will drop, if it now stays dropped until you release then its just the way the two parts are comming together, the switch is only held in place with plastic push in pins, they can and do get loose.

If this does not solve the problem release the two securing bolts to the lock (next to the latch you just opperated with the screwdriver) and the lock has a metal pin that extends towards the door handle, you will see/feel a plastic shroud over the metal, this part slides away from the lock towards the door - when you have done this the door handle becomes disconnected from the lock, unplug the wires and remove the lock completely.

The electrics and the mechanicals of the lock are not servicable according to Porsche, but oh yes they are.

Remove the little screws around the plastic electrics cover and you can seperate the lock mechanicals - which wont be the problem and get at the electrical components

Take phots if you need so you have a refference of how to rebuild the bits afterwards.

There are a couple of microswitches in there, use a meter to find ourt which one is fault, you cant get a part from Porsch for this but you will be able to get a microswitch that will do the job from places like Maplin.

If you stuff everything up then you stil only have a knackered lock - which is what you have now - so youve not lost anything.

It all sounds complicated but all you need is a bit of bottle - its easy

Edited September 29, 2007 by Glyn

[tah]

Thanks for the replies..........

Does anyone know if this switch is tripped when the door is unlatched and then released when the door closes. This sounds like the most logical scenario, unless there's a second switch.

I used to repair the elctronics on A10's and F15's, so I can't see this being a huge challenge. However we had REALLY good manuals!

Looks like I'll need to take the door apart soon.........

Tim

Edited September 29, 2007 by tah

[Glyn]

Thanks for the replies..........

Does anyone know if this switch is tripped when the door is unlatched and then released when the door closes. This sounds like the most logical scenario, unless there's a second switch.

I used to repair the elctronics on A10's and F15's, so I can't see this being a huge challenge. However we had REALLY good manuals!

Looks like I'll need to take the door apart soon.........

Tim

So your the guy that fixed the A10s to lock on to us brits in the tanks.

Hope the door lock is more sucessful

Glyn :D

[tah]

So your the guy that fixed the A10s to lock on to us brits in the tanks.

Hope the door lock is more sucessful

Glyn :D

Not me, I did the inertial and radar navigation. Now with GPS all that stuff is in the trash can. My Garmin I bought for <$400 does a better job than what the USAF had in the mid 70's which cost them about 1 mil a copy.

Ain't progress grand?

[ericweller]

I have the exact problem with my 2003S. While at a track day last week the shop foreman from my local dealership took a look and said the same thing. Microswitch telling the window that the door is closed. He suggested a new handle assembly. If you are able to fix the problem yourself I'd be really grateful for some pointers!

Thanks

[rsfeller]

Always interesting to me that the dealer tech solution is to replace the who sub-system or area when obviously a new switch is all that is needed! Most likely they don't have just a part number for the switch...but it could easily be fixed or replace with a little searching if the door handle assembly is to pricey.

[ericweller]

Just got a call back from the dealership. Quote to fix the problem is $295 labor and about $200 parts!

I wasn't able to download the pictures from the door panel removal how-to, any alternative to that link?

Thanks

[1schoir]

Eric:

Try copying and pasting this link, it has excellent instructions and photos:

http://www.ecoutez.net/boxster/door-panel-removal/

Regards, Maurice.

Just got a call back from the dealership. Quote to fix the problem is $295 labor and about $200 parts!

I wasn't able to download the pictures from the door panel removal how-to, any alternative to that link?

Thanks

[ericweller]

Thanks Maurice, that link worked.

E

[tah]

Not sure if there are two microswitches or if the inside and outside handle "trip" the same switch.

Anyway I got this diagram somewhere (can't recall) and if I had the second page I'd have the switch part number.

Anyone recognize the source of this?

[1schoir]

Not sure if there are two microswitches or if the inside and outside handle "trip" the same switch.

Anyway I got this diagram somewhere (can't recall) and if I had the second page I'd have the switch part number.

Anyone recognize the source of this?

Tah:

If you are referring to part #14 in your diagram, the part numbers are:

996 613 125 00 driver's (left) side

996 613 126 00 passenger's (right) side.

The diagram is from the Porsche Parts List Catalogue. Mike Focke, on PPBB.COM, has an explanation on how to access it, as follows:

Get a parts list (called the "PET") by going to https://techinfo.porsche.com/ and select "Country-USA", select "Workshop Information", Select "Genuine Parts Catalog", select "Catalog 20" "986 Boxster" and download. This will give you a 400 page .pdf file from which pages can be printed as needed

Regards, Maurice.

[tah]

Thanks Maurice......

Just what I needed!

[1schoir]

Thanks Maurice......

Just what I needed!

TAH:

You're most welcome. Let us know how you make out.

Regards, Maurice.

[tah]

Got the switch from Sunset (as well as a few other items), great outfit to deal with.

Followed the door disassembly linked to earlier in this thread, and amazingly enough didn't break anything. Pulled the foam off from behind the handle area and found my switch wires were dangling freely. The new switch wire had two snap in retainers so I had to figure out where they went. Figured it out by finding the old broken ones. A small flat blade screwdriver easily popped the old switch loose and the new one simply snaps into two mount holes. Routed the wiring correctly, plugged into the harness, reassembled the door and done!

I suspect the window going up and down was rubbing on the unattached wiring and introduced an intermittent state.

Anyway, if you're handy at all this is a cheap fix when compared to letting the dealer do the whole assembly. Kind of tight in there, but real easy on the wallet!

[1schoir]

Got the switch from Sunset (as well as a few other items), great outfit to deal with.

Followed the door disassembly linked to earlier in this thread, and amazingly enough didn't break anything. Pulled the foam off from behind the handle area and found my switch wires were dangling freely. The new switch wire had two snap in retainers so I had to figure out where they went. Figured it out by finding the old broken ones. A small flat blade screwdriver easily popped the old switch loose and the new one simply snaps into two mount holes. Routed the wiring correctly, plugged into the harness, reassembled the door and done!

I suspect the window going up and down was rubbing on the unattached wiring and introduced an intermittent state.

Anyway, if you're handy at all this is a cheap fix when compared to letting the dealer do the whole assembly. Kind of tight in there, but real easy on the wallet!

TAH:

Excellent work! Thanks for giving us the update.

Regards, Maurice.

[tah]

Well the switch wasn't the (entire) problem. Looks like the gremlin's alive and kicking. My problem would disappear for a few days and then just as suddenly reappear. Looks like I installed the switch during one of the good periods and thought it was the fix I was looking for.

Now I don't know where to start, unless to take apart the handle completely as suggested earlier by Glyn

I get different symptoms when operating the interior door release vs the exterior handle.

Also when I was inside the door, I couldn't really see how both handles would activate/deactivate the same switch. Hope someone has been further down this road than me and can shed a little more light...........

Edited November 2, 2007 by tah

[juniinc]

Earlier post I mentioned there being 2 switches . If u get different symptoms when operating the interior door handle vs the exterior handle. I'll probably check the alarm/cental locking computer unit under the seat, either mother board going bad or needs to be reprogrammed. Since all these functions are electronically controlled from there.

Well the switch wasn't the (entire) problem. Looks like the gremlin's alive and kicking. My problem would disappear for a few days and then just as suddenly reappear. Looks like I installed the switch during one of the good periods and thought it was the fix I was looking for.

Now I don't know where to start, unless to take apart the handle completely as suggested earlier by

I get different symptoms when operating the interior door release vs the exterior handle.

Also when I was inside the door, I couldn't really see how both handles would activate/deactivate the same switch. Hope someone has been further down this road than me and can shed a little more light...........

Edited November 3, 2007 by juniinc

[tah]

I'll probably check the alarm/cental locking computer unit under the seat, either mother board going bad or needs to be reprogrammed. Since all these functions are electronically controlled from there.

Did you read the earlier post by Glyn? I have to admit I didn't take it all in the first time I looked at the post.

He says there are two switches inside the handle assembly. I would sure like to look here before I begin to think about a computer or motherboard, wouldn't you?

[PTEC]

A faulty in the lock mechanism built in switch is most common.

This guy told you your problem a month ago. When the symptoms you're describing pop up, its almost always the door lock unit. The only other thing I have seen cause this is window motor, but that was one time.

Have you ever pulled either inner or outer door handle out just enough to make the window drop but not open the door? It drops then goes right back up right? Sound familiar? Heres whats happening.

There is a micro switch for the outer door handle and another micro switch for the inner door handle. It looks like you bought and replaced the outer door handle micro switch. The inner door handle micro switch is on the door panel, you had disconnect it when you took the door panel off. They're located in different spots but they serve the same purpose. When these are triggered it sends a signal to the alarm control unit to lower the door glass because it thinks the door is about to open. The wild card here is a micro switch inside the door lock unit that tells the alarm control unit if the door is open or shut. This micro switch works in tandem with the door handle micro switches. If a door handle is pulled and the micro switch inside the door lock is saying the door is open, then the window will stay down, but if it says the door is closed the window goes right back up. The micro switch inside the door lock sticking in the closed position is a common failure and will cause the exact problem you're having. So in a nutshell, the control unit knows full and well you pulled the door handle, but it still thinks the door is closed.

The part you want is shown as #14 on page 220 of the PET catalog someone already gave a link to. There are a lot of different part number for different options so be careful when you order it. IIRC, this part is around 400 bucks.

Edited November 3, 2007 by PTEC