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Recommended Posts

Posted

I've read that if you remove the idler pulley above the water pump you can remove the pump from the top. This is supposed to be easier than removing it from the bottom.  If I take that approach can I skip the steps for removing the engine bracket below it?

How about if I'm also replacing the thermostat and housing?

Posted

I've read that if you remove the idler pulley above the water pump you can remove the pump from the top. This is supposed to be easier than removing it from the bottom.  If I take that approach can I skip the steps for removing the engine bracket below it?

How about if I'm also replacing the thermostat and housing?

Have a full read of this thread, you will find many tips on changing the waterpump, taking it out the top is not one of them

 

Posted

 

I've read that if you remove the idler pulley above the water pump you can remove the pump from the top. This is supposed to be easier than removing it from the bottom.  If I take that approach can I skip the steps for removing the engine bracket below it?

How about if I'm also replacing the thermostat and housing?

Have a full read of this thread, you will find many tips on changing the waterpump, taking it out the top is not one of them

 

 

I have read this thread. I've also read elsewhere that taking it out through the top is much easier. I'm looking for information from someone who has done this.

Posted

 

 

I've read that if you remove the idler pulley above the water pump you can remove the pump from the top. This is supposed to be easier than removing it from the bottom.  If I take that approach can I skip the steps for removing the engine bracket below it?

How about if I'm also replacing the thermostat and housing?

Have a full read of this thread, you will find many tips on changing the waterpump, taking it out the top is not one of them

 

 

I have read this thread. I've also read elsewhere that taking it out through the top is much easier. I'm looking for information from someone who has done this.

 

And if you find someone they will have a serious penchant for S&M, take it out the bottom.

Posted

You obviously don't have anything to add to the conversation. Why do you keep replying?

Wow, now you are getting rude. I have already told you that you are wasting your time, it comes out the bottom, what else do you want?

  • Admin
Posted

wyovino is asking if anyone has taken it out the top - if you have not then why reply.

Take this down a notch -- and provide constructive help or don't reply.

 

If this gets any more off topic and personal - there will be site privileges consequences (i.e. suspension or banning).

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I'll be doing this DIY this weekend. Is the washer for the coolant drain plug the same as oil drain plug washer?

Posted (edited)

I'll answer my own question - No, you can't get the water pump out from the top even if you loosen the mounting bracket as detailed in the DIY.  At least I couldn't. I had to unbolt the hard line and remove the thermostat housing, which I was replacing anyway, and remove the water pump from the bottom.

 

I did find that removing the idler pulley just above the water pump made it easier to reach in to unbolt the water pump - more room to get your hands and tools in.

 

The two frustrating parts of the process are the upper right bolt on the thermostat housing and the upper right bolt on the water pump. If someone could come up with a good tool for these the whole thing would be pretty easy. Those two bolts took me several hours plus several trips to Home Depot and Ace Hardware looking for something that would work.

 

The other tool that I found to be absolutely necessary was a hook for removing the hoses. I got mine at Harbor Freight. If your hoses are original and have never been removed, they won't come off without a fight. The hook made if manageable.

 

Back on the road. No leaks, warning lights, or unusual sounds. The temperature needle is where it has usually been.

Edited by wyovino
  • 2 years later...
Posted

I'm not ready to do this again yet, but I was wondering if it would be a good idea to replace the problematic bolt (upper right) with a Torx or hex bolt.  The problem as I remember it was that there wasn't enough room between the bolt and the engine to get a socket on it and I had to use very small turns with an open end wrench.   That would make swapping out the waterpump much easier going forward.

Posted

Have you tried a 1/4" drive socket? I also have a 1/4" dr swivel 10mm socket just for that bolt. Works like a charm.

Posted

If memory serves, I broke the bolt loose with a 1/4" dr 10mm deep socket fist, then backed it out using the swivel socket.

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