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Recommended Posts

Posted

Many many thanks for the video and instructions here. After getting a quote from the dealership of 1200 for the replacement I found this and decided to tackle this myself.

Many many thanks!

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

I just completed the water pump replacement on my 2000 996 thanks to the DIY help from this site. I no doubt owe another contribution for a huge savings from this job. It looked good as I fired it up and tested for leaks. I then took a spirited drive and upon arrival back home it was smoking from a leak dripping on the exhaust pipes. When I opened it up to check it out, coolant was spewing out from under and around the reservoir cap. Could this be a freak coincidence or did the new pump create enough pressure to expose a failing reservoir cap?

The part number on my cap is 996 106 447 00. What is the part number for the newer cap?

  • Admin
Posted

I just completed the water pump replacement on my 2000 996 thanks to the DIY help from this site. I no doubt owe another contribution for a huge savings from this job. It looked good as I fired it up and tested for leaks. I then took a spirited drive and upon arrival back home it was smoking from a leak dripping on the exhaust pipes. When I opened it up to check it out, coolant was spewing out from under and around the reservoir cap. Could this be a freak coincidence or did the new pump create enough pressure to expose a failing reservoir cap?

The part number on my cap is 996 106 447 00. What is the part number for the newer cap?

996.106.447.04 is the latest I've seen.

Posted
... I then took a spirited drive and upon arrival back home it was smoking from a leak dripping on the exhaust pipes. When I opened it up to check it out, coolant was spewing out from under and around the reservoir cap. Could this be a freak coincidence or did the new pump create enough pressure to expose a failing reservoir cap?...

Could you have perhaps overfilled the system as well, or spilled some on various components while you were adding coolant?

Posted

i definitely had the valve open when I drove it. How long should it be open? The leak was definitely around the cap not the valve if that matters.

Posted

You can leave it open for a week. It will also pop up on it's own when it's at operating temp.

The cap is an inexpensive item if that is the culprit.

Posted

Coolant reservoir cap did the trick. No leaks now. Thanks to all for the help, ideas and advice. Is my old water pump anything to anyone or is it my newest paper weight?

Posted

LOL, you can take it to your local landfill and see if they'll pay you for the scrap metal. :rolleyes:

In the old days, you used hand over all your old cores.

Sadly these days we humans tend to waste more and more and more...

Anyhow great to hear it's OK now.

  • 3 months later...
Posted

Well, the second Napa water pump I have installed on my car died this morning on the way to work. The first one lasted less than six months. The second one has clocked in at just a few days shy of two years. I highly suggest NOT buying the rebuilt Napa pumps.

  • Upvote 1
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

JeTexas...

Your DIY video helped me with the pump swap. You made it look eaiser than it was for me doing it.

I didn't take your advice and I too put in a Napa refurbished. I am broke and it was 1/2 the cost of an OEM.

Here is what is interesting... the original pump I took out had a machined milled surface and a metal gasket with no

sealer.

The rebuilt from Napa is not machined and has a softer, thicker (not cork) gasket. This means it needed some gasket sealer

or I am sure it would leak. Anyway, if it lasts a couple years, I will replace with an OEM. Thanks for the Video

Posted

HEY, I followed JeTexas's excellent DIY video to change my waterpump... I also changed the alternator and polyrib belt previous month...I bought a decent looking replacement water pump from autohausz ..oe fitment etc...now after exactly 2 months..I hear a belt noise from the rear..no bearing/grinding noise...car runs great...no leaks, etc...not overheating.

i removed belt and if I turn waterpump by hand it makes a slight squeak.!?!?!? like a dry rubber maybe?

Should I have used Porsche coolant and replaced all idler/accessory/tensioner pulleys as well..??wasn't sure but they turned easy..no play or grinding noise, although they did spin more freely than my new water pump & alternator pulleys.

Alternator was a NAPA part that Checkered Flag Porsche dealer ordered and installed for me along with original Porsche polyrib belt.

I couldn't afford to support the stealership anymore, so the following month when water pump started leaking I replaced myself with autohausz pump and filled system with peak 50/50 phosphate free /silicate free formula coolant -as this was recommended to me... is this the cause of my squeak? I hear a belt type noise while driving like a squeak/squeal/slipping belt?..it goes away when clutch is in, or in neutral , but if I rev then I can hear it.....please help..could my new water pump be going after only 2 months?..what caused it & how can I prevent this in the future?..should I replace pump now...and/or other pulleys?? since I know water pump squeaks when turned by hand..bearings still tight..no grinding etc..no play that I can feel on pulley..no leaks...what should I do..I'm pulling my hair out.!!!

I'm at my wit's end. Dylan 99 carrera 70,xxx miles

Posted

That rubber squeaky sound when you turn the water pump is normal. Mine did the same thing. I did the poor mans flush on the system, I.E. I removed the drain plug and the bottom hoses. About two gallons came out. I replaced it with the Phosphate free

coolant and water about 50/50. Had to burp the system a few times to get the air out. I don't know why you are hearing some unusual sound now.

If all systems are running good, just keep enjoying the drive and maybe it will stop or you will locate it down the road. Watch the

gauges. Happy motoring.

Posted (edited)

That rubber squeaky sound when you turn the water pump is normal. Mine did the same thing. I did the poor mans flush on the system, I.E. I removed the drain plug and the bottom hoses. About two gallons came out. I replaced it with the Phosphate free

coolant and water about 50/50. Had to burp the system a few times to get the air out. I don't know why you are hearing some unusual sound now.

If all systems are running good, just keep enjoying the drive and maybe it will stop or you will locate it down the road. Watch the

gauges. Happy motoring.

Sorry about the double post. Can't delete it.

Edited by Rapewta
Posted

thanks for the info....just weird that the sound only started 2 months after water pump replacement.it was perfect till now..so was just hoping it was not related?? but will keep an eye/ear on it. Cheers!

  • 4 months later...
Posted

I heard a slight squeak at idle and gradually changed pitch and got louder to 2000-2500 and 300 miles later the water pump went... Squeak came from play in the pulley, once off you could hand spin it (with slight pressure on the pulley) and it sounded the same - just not as amplified as 2k RPM

  • 7 months later...
Posted

I'm getting ready to change the water pump on my '99 996 C2, and the coolant hose that connects to the pump is looking pretty old (now that the car is 13+ years old). Are there any other coolant hoses I should be changing while I have the coolant drained?

The Porsche parts catalog is pretty confusing when referencing the coolant hoses in the car. If you have any part numbers to suggest, that would be great as well. Thanks.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Bentley's repair manual calls for removing the bolts on the rear stabilizer bar (anti-sway bar) and let it hang under the engine. Does anyone do this and know why this step is needed? TIA

  • 6 months later...
Posted (edited)

In the middle of changing my water pump and t-stat. I have a question in regards to installing the 2 hard to reach bolts. The right side water pump bolt was difficult to get at but I managed to get it out. The upper left t-stat bolts was even harder to access. I'm worried that I will have difficulty getting these 2 bolts back in. Anyone have any tips for installing these 2 bolts?

Edited by revn29k00
Posted (edited)

In the middle of changing my water pump and t-stat. I have a question in regards to installing the 2 hard to reach bolts. The right side water pump bolt was difficult to get at but I managed to get it out. The upper left t-stat bolts was even harder to access. I'm worried that I will have difficulty getting these 2 bolts back in. Anyone have any tips for installing these 2 bolts?

I used a 1/4" drive swivel 10mm socket + extension. See post #15 here http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/10175752-post15.htmlJust use a little bit of electrical tape to tape the bolt onto the socket and remove the tape once the bolt is in but not tightened. Edited by Ahsai
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

In the middle of changing my water pump and t-stat. I have a question in regards to installing the 2 hard to reach bolts. The right side water pump bolt was difficult to get at but I managed to get it out. The upper left t-stat bolts was even harder to access. I'm worried that I will have difficulty getting these 2 bolts back in. Anyone have any tips for installing these 2 bolts?

I used a 1/4" drive swivel 10mm socket + extension. See post #15 here http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/10175752-post15.htmlJust use a little bit of electrical tape to tape the bolt onto the socket and remove the tape once the bolt is in but not tightened.

I just replaced my thermostat and water pump last week and it was actually very easy to get to all the bolts. I removed the bolts from the hard coolant lines and shifted all the hosed out of the way. Then I was able to start and stung all the thermostat housing bolts by hand, then torqued to 7.5 ft/lb. As for the water pump bolts, i removed and installed the bolts on the bottom and to the left of the pump from the bottom and the top bolts and the ones up against the engine block from the top. I used a wobble extension on a short 10mm socket on a 1/4 in ratchet. In total including flushing and refilling the coolant system with a UView tool took 3 hours.

  • 1 year later...
Posted (edited)

Well that was a fun 4 hours of my life. All is easy except that one last bolt........ I invented a new swear vocabulary for Porsche today, for that one bolt.

Also pay attention to which bolt comes from where, I had two that were longer than the rest which took some trial and error to workout. 

 

Also, take the pump out the bottom, it comes out easily once the thermostat and the other pipes have been moved out of the way.
 

****---___IMPORTANT___---****

 

the pump comes out the bottom, and you have to unbolt some extra lines to make it come out easily. Do not be lazy, undo all the lines, you will save an hour!

Edited by kon5t

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