DIY Oil Change

[mustang66]

Hi Folks,

I purchased a 97 Boxster with about 24,000 miles last year, put in about 4,000. The dealer who sold me the car said they changed the oil. I asked if it was synthetic, they said yes. I am asking you experienced Boxster owners out there what I should do in terms of maintenance at this time. I could think of changing the oil and air filter, not sure what else should be done.

My second question is how difficult is it to perform these maintenance tasks. I am a fairly good mechanic and have worked on many front engine cars over the years, including oil change and other maintence tasks. I read the post on getting the top to the service position and open the engine cover. I assume I need to put the car on ramps to change the oil. A detailed step-by-step on changing the oil and other maintence that can be done by a home mechanic would be really helpful. I am a little surprise to see that there is no such DIY post in this forum. I tried to post this in the DIY Maintenance forum but it did not work. Am I missing something?

Any help is appreciated.

[Loren]

The Boxster engine is the same as the Carrera (except it faces the other direction). Any of the Carrera DIY oil change articles will work for a Boxster too.

https://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=7055

I think the air filer has been covered elsewhere in the Boxster forums - try doing a search.

[4agdtym]

There have been many discussion about timing the frequency of oil changes - depends on your preference related to how hard you drive. I have changed mine at 10k mile intervals. I just changed it two weeks ago. First time I did t myself.

I put the car on jack stands. Everything was readily visible and easily accessible. I was surprised at how fast and the force with which the oil came out, once the plug was removed. I was using one of the "jerry" style plastic cans with the catch tray on the side. It didn't work. I ended up with a lot of oil on the floor. Next time I will get a bucket that holds enough oil.

directions for DIY are here: https://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...p;hl=oil+change

I bought the 0-40 at Kragen for about $6 a quart.

I ordered the filter kit from Sunset - link above at "Porsche Parts at Dealer Cost"

The aluminium seal for the drain plug was the wrong size. Make sure to check that.

Cleaning up the spilled oil wasn't too bad with the hlep of 40 lbs of cat litter.

I'll do a clean job next time. ;)

Good luck,

David

[mustang66]

Thanks Loren and David,

Sorry for the late reply, been on vacation and busy with some stuff. Finally got back to this business.

Ordered the oil filter, crush ring, engine air filter and cabin airfilter from Sunset Porsche early this week, should get them next week. I was tempted to do the first oil change myself but I thought may be I can watch my local mechanic do it first. Maybe next time I can do it. I guess I can jack up the car and put 4 jack stands or use the two 2x10 method.

I printed the instructions just in case if the mechanic needs it. My friend reccommended this guy who has worked on Porsches before. I wonder if he has the right oil filter wrench. I will try to look for one myself, in case I will do this in the future. I saw that some others are having trouble getting a metal one from the dealer. I will call my local dealer or visit my local auto part stores. I think a metal one is probably better, right?

I will try to locate some Mobile 1 0W-40. I actually have a lot of 0W-20, is that good? I live in New Jersey, most drivings are in nice warm weather, local leasure driving, about 4000 miles/year.

Any help with the engine and cabin oil change is appreciated. My 97 Boxster has about 29,000 miles. According one maintenance schedule I saw, I suppose to change both the cabin and engine filters. The cabin filter is over $55, I probably don't need to change it because most of my driving is with the top down anyway. I don't need to filter the air coming into the cabin, right? Anyway, I will do it this time.

Again, thanks for you help.

A new Boxster owner.

[1schoir]

Thanks Loren and David,

Sorry for the late reply, been on vacation and busy with some stuff. Finally got back to this business.

Ordered the oil filter, crush ring, engine air filter and cabin airfilter from Sunset Porsche early this week, should get them next week. I was tempted to do the first oil change myself but I thought may be I can watch my local mechanic do it first. Maybe next time I can do it. I guess I can jack up the car and put 4 jack stands or use the two 2x10 method.

I printed the instructions just in case if the mechanic needs it. My friend reccommended this guy who has worked on Porsches before. I wonder if he has the right oil filter wrench. I will try to look for one myself, in case I will do this in the future. I saw that some others are having trouble getting a metal one from the dealer. I will call my local dealer or visit my local auto part stores. I think a metal one is probably better, right?

I will try to locate some Mobile 1 0W-40. I actually have a lot of 0W-20, is that good? I live in New Jersey, most drivings are in nice warm weather, local leasure driving, about 4000 miles/year.

Any help with the engine and cabin oil change is appreciated. My 97 Boxster has about 29,000 miles. According one maintenance schedule I saw, I suppose to change both the cabin and engine filters. The cabin filter is over $55, I probably don't need to change it because most of my driving is with the top down anyway. I don't need to filter the air coming into the cabin, right? Anyway, I will do it this time.

Again, thanks for you help.

A new Boxster owner.

Mustang66:

From what you describe as your previous experience with maintenance items and oil changes on front-engined cars, you are probably wasting your money paying a mechanic to do this oil change the first time. There is nothing magical about changing the oil on your boxster, with the exception of the care you must take when jacking up a Boxster.

Once you have the right tools (for the oil filter plug, for the oil filter housing and a torque wrench), it's as easy as any other car, and actually a lot easier than some cars I have done where it is exceptionally difficult to access the oil filter.

Follow the directions in that DIY link and you will not have any surprises.

The caution that David gave you about the oil coming out fast and furious and splashing is one that you should definitely heed, because it will surprise you. It surprised me the first time I did it, and I have changed the oil and filter on other cars more than 100 times.

As to the proper weight of the synthetic oil, the conventional wisdom on this board and on PPBB is that you should stick with Mobil 1 0W-40. Also, since you only do 4,000 miles per year, you should change your oil based on a time schedule (at least once a year) rather than on the mileage interval recommended.

If you drive with the top down most of the time, you are right, you don't need to filter the air coming into the cabin.

Regards, Maurice.

[mustang66]

Thanks Maurice, David & everyone,

You guys are really helpful, with all the info and encouragement for this new Boxster owner. I am still waiting for the parts. I will see if I feel up to to the challenge when I get the parts. I plan to change the air filters myself. The oil change is a little more work. Maybe because I am getting a little older and lazier. I will see how much this local mechanic will charge for his labor and use of his lift. I will be there working with him but I will not get dirty and will not have to worry about getting rid of the dirty oil.

If I keep this car, I probably will do it myself eventually.

I will report back.

Thansk to all again...

Mustang66

[mustang66]

You guys are right, it's not a big deal to change the oil and oil filter on my 97 Boxster. I watched the mechanic do it. There is no splash shield to remove, the oil filter and drain plug are right there once the car is lifted. My mechanic did not have the exact oil filter wrench (74mm w/14 flats). He used one of those clamps and got filter casing off after a little strugle. The rest is pretty much straight forward.

I think I will do the next oil change myself. Is it better to jack the car up and put 4 jack stands or build some ramps out of two 2x10's? If I use ramps, I should use 4 ramps for all 4 wheels, right? To keep the car level for better draining of the oil, right? Any suggestions?

I feel much better now knowing the oil is clean. The baby really running smooth.

Thanks agin for the help.

Mustang66

[juniinc]

If you havn't done it yet this might help you. I just jack up my left side of the car then if you want to level the car just lower your jack. Much more quicker & easier.

You guys are right, it's not a big deal to change the oil and oil filter on my 97 Boxster. I watched the mechanic do it. There is no splash shield to remove, the oil filter and drain plug are right there once the car is lifted. My mechanic did not have the exact oil filter wrench (74mm w/14 flats). He used one of those clamps and got filter casing off after a little strugle. The rest is pretty much straight forward.

I think I will do the next oil change myself. Is it better to jack the car up and put 4 jack stands or build some ramps out of two 2x10's? If I use ramps, I should use 4 ramps for all 4 wheels, right? To keep the car level for better draining of the oil, right? Any suggestions?

I feel much better now knowing the oil is clean. The baby really running smooth.

Thanks agin for the help.

Mustang66

[Tool Pants]

I jack up just the left side. Then slide me and the drain pan and the tools under the car. Unscrew filter cannister and replace filter and o-ring. Screw cannister back on my hand. Then slide drain pan over to the drain plug. Remove plug. Make sure old crush washer comes out. Lower car until engine just touches the drain pan and let oil drain.

Then jack up the car and replace plug with new washer. Slide oil pan out of the way. Tighten filter cannister and plug.

Beer is optional.

[efahl]

Beer is optional.

Since when?

[gandrade1]

I jack up just the left side. Then slide me and the drain pan and the tools under the car. Unscrew filter cannister and replace filter and o-ring. Screw cannister back on my hand. Then slide drain pan over to the drain plug. Remove plug. Make sure old crush washer comes out. Lower car until engine just touches the drain pan and let oil drain.

Then jack up the car and replace plug with new washer. Slide oil pan out of the way. Tighten filter cannister and plug.

Beer is optional.

I am getting ready to do my first oil change. I bought 4 stands and one low profile jack. I also added hockey pucks to the stands and jack with the help of someone from this forum.

My question is: how can you jack only the left side? What about the need for the car to be leveled? Is it safe to have only two jack stands in the car? Do you have some pics of where you jacked the car (I am assuming you used the alternative jacking point) and where you placed the other stand?

Sorry for the many questions, but I want to make sure I do this safely.

Thanks,

Gus

Edited March 7, 2008 by gandrade1

[1schoir]

I jack up just the left side. Then slide me and the drain pan and the tools under the car. Unscrew filter cannister and replace filter and o-ring. Screw cannister back on my hand. Then slide drain pan over to the drain plug. Remove plug. Make sure old crush washer comes out. Lower car until engine just touches the drain pan and let oil drain.

Then jack up the car and replace plug with new washer. Slide oil pan out of the way. Tighten filter cannister and plug.

Beer is optional.

I am getting ready to do my first oil change. I bought 4 stands and one low profile jack. I also added hockey pucks to the stands and jack with the help of someone from this forum.

My question is: how can you jack only the left side? What about the need for the car to be leveled? Is it safe to have only two jack stands in the car? Do you have some pics of where you jacked the car (I am assuming you used the alternative jacking point) and where you placed the other stand?

Sorry for the many questions, but I want to make sure I do this safely.

Thanks,

Gus

Gustavo:

The car does not have to be level, as long as the jackstand is placed securely under the car. Using Tool Pants' method as described above, when you lower the car until the engine just touches the drain pan (after you have unscrewed the drain plug), that will help drain the oil more completely.

Be careful when you unscrew the plug. Because the Boxster has such a large capacity of oil (compared to most other cars), the oil will come GUSHING out very fast at first, so watch out for the splashing and be prepared. I don't know if anyone else has mentioned it in this thread, but it's also a good idea to warm up the engine before draining the oil so that it becomes less viscous and drains more readily. The only drawback is that the oil will be hotter, so again, be careful.

DO NOT CUT ANY CORNERS WITH SAFETY when you are getting under the car!

Regards, Maurice.

Edited March 7, 2008 by 1schoir

[Tool Pants]

After the drain plug is removed, remove the stand, and "lower car until engine just touches the drain pan and let oil drain." Your car will then be level while the oil is draining. If you are going to watch the oil drip for a full 20 minutes then you will need a beer.

After the oil is done draining jack the car up and put the stand back in place. Install and tighten drain plug, don't forget the washer. Tighten the cannister.

At our work on cars days we usually get the women to change the oil....

[gandrade1]

After the drain plug is removed, remove the stand, and "lower car until engine just touches the drain pan and let oil drain." Your car will then be level while the oil is draining. If you are going to watch the oil drip for a full 20 minutes then you will need a beer.

After the oil is done draining jack the car up and put the stand back in place. Install and tighten drain plug, don't forget the washer. Tighten the cannister.

At our work on cars days we usually get the women to change the oil....

Hahahahha...That is great man!

BTW, I gave it a try today... Jacked the car up through the alternative jack point (pic below) on the left side, but as I raised the jack to get enough clearance to put the stands, the jack felt very unstable (pulling towards the car!) Is this normal? Well, I didnt think so... So I had the beers and came back in!

Is my jack too short for my stands, or is the load capacity too low? Could it be the surface of my garage? This is my jack Craftsman 2-1/2 Ton Floor Jack, Low Profile and these are my stands Craftsman 2-1/4 ton Jack Stands....

Well, the owner manuals state that the jack (2.5 ton load) will go as high as 14.2 inches (360.68 mm) and the stands as low as 10-5/8 inches (270mm). I am using the stands at their lowest.

Edited March 7, 2008 by gandrade1

[Cassiebox]

Hahahahha...That is great man!

BTW, I gave it a try today... Jacked the car up through the alternative jack point (pic below) on the left side, but as I raised the jack to get enough clearance to put the stands, the jack felt very unstable (pulling towards the car!) Is this normal? Well, I didnt think so... So I had the beers and came back in!

Is my jack too short for my stands, or is the load capacity too low? Could it be the surface of my garage? This is my jack Craftsman 2-1/2 Ton Floor Jack, Low Profile and these are my stands Craftsman 2-1/4 ton Jack Stands....

Well, the owner manuals state that the jack (2.5 ton load) will go as high as 14.2 inches (360.68 mm) and the stands as low as 10-5/8 inches (270mm). I am using the stands at their lowest.

Yes perfectly normal (the lifting arm is not variable in length so the higher you go, the closer the base needs to get to the vehicle). This is the main reason it's on wheels too. Otherwise as it lifted, it'd try and pull the car towards the jack - not good if the other side were up on stands, huh? B)

Jacks are always "upredictable" and a little unstable - thus why you should never ever ever work under a car unless it's supported by stands. As an extra safety precaution (when pulling wheels) is to lay them on their side underneath the rails.