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Engine Compartment Blower not working


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I've had an issue where the coolant temp rises past the right of the 180 on the gauge when I am moving in traffic or on back roads (30 mph or lower). I used the HVAC control diagnostic to display the coolant temp, and it can run as high as 105C or so. Coolant levels are fine.

So I tested the engine compartment blower by disconnecting the sensor on the right side of the engine between the intakes and the fan does not activate (key was in the ON position).

Then I put a meter on the fan connector to see if I was getting any voltage - nothing. Pulled fuse B4 and its fine. What next, as I do not think its the fan (given its not getting voltage)?

2001 C2 cab, 24,535 miles.

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The engine compartment fan pulls cool air in - it does not blow hot air out.

If you can find a shop with a PST2 (or PIWIS) they can easily test your fan - it takes about 2 minutes.

The criteria for the fan to come has been covered here many times.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...ost&p=72289

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...ost&p=28856

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Grrr - guess that means a trip to the dealer. $140 for two minutes work. As usual, thanks Loren.

You can test the circuit by warming up the car and then pulling the 2 wire connector off the sensor. Fan should start immediately and then stop when reconnected. If it does not start, disconnect the connector at the fan and test for voltage when the sensor is not connected. If there is voltage, problem is fan motor....if no voltage, then fan is fine and fault is either fuse or harness. It would NOT be the sensor.

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Thanks 1999Porsche911. I pretty much did that, except the car was not running (key was in the ON position). I will retry that at home tonight. When I tried, I got no voltage reading at the fan connector (nothing with sensor connected or disconnected). I'll report back if I find anything new tonight. Thank you again.

Grrr - guess that means a trip to the dealer. $140 for two minutes work. As usual, thanks Loren.

You can test the circuit by warming up the car and then pulling the 2 wire connector off the sensor. Fan should start immediately and then stop when reconnected. If it does not start, disconnect the connector at the fan and test for voltage when the sensor is not connected. If there is voltage, problem is fan motor....if no voltage, then fan is fine and fault is either fuse or harness. It would NOT be the sensor.

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Found the issue - there was corrosion on the plug that connects to the engine compartment fan. Cleaned it off and it works fine, but...

It does not solve my problem. The coolant continues to skyrockets up to 101-105*C when I am in traffic (30 mph or slower) or standing still (normally runs around 95*C when moving on the highway). I have verified that both the low and high speed radiator fans do work, so I am thinking that I need to remove the front bumber and check that the radiators are not blocked with crude. Any other suggestions?

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Found the issue - there was corrosion on the plug that connects to the engine compartment fan. Cleaned it off and it works fine, but...

It does not solve my problem. The coolant continues to skyrockets up to 101-105*C when I am in traffic (30 mph or slower) or standing still (normally runs around 95*C when moving on the highway). I have verified that both the low and high speed radiator fans do work, so I am thinking that I need to remove the front bumber and check that the radiators are not blocked with crude. Any other suggestions?

As a previous Boston resident and familiar with the salt on the winter roads, when you remove your front bumper to clean the radiators and AC condenser your should check the fan contacts as you did in the engine compartment. If those were corroded, then likely the others may be as well. Not sure you use your PC as a daily driver, but if you drive in the winter there in Boston on that SE expressway I'm sure your car gets a concentrated salt bath in the winter.

Good luck!! :cheers: demosan

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