Convertible Top Woes

[1schoir]

Bought the car more than a year ago, bought a hardtop shortly thereafter. Car is MY97 with low mileage, and I've gotten pretty good at taking the top up and down manually. About 2 months ago, I replaced the convertible top canvas (car came with a diagonal slash in the cloudy vinyl window) and that part came out excellent although it took two days, so I decided to try to get everything else working.

The convertible top never worked in the automatic mode, and judging from the crease in the clamshell, I checked the cables (after reading Tool Pants' posts on the subject) and found that they were barely sticking out (one about 3/8 and the other one about 1/8). I removed the metal ferules with a little heat, cut the outer sheaths, reinstalled and re-dimpled the ferules and got the requisite 3/4" of square metal cable sticking out. The motor turns and the transmissions are the original, old style.

I removed the transmissions, dissassembled them, lubed them up, reassembled them after counting the number of teeth on each one (50), re-installed them.

When they were apart, I used the top motor to spin each cable so that the marks in the center of the outside of the housing matched up (as a starting point). I saw some info on this forum and decided to try this approach as a starting point.

With the marks lined up, I only had to turn the psgr side one for a few seconds to get the V-levers in an identical position to each other.

I hooked up the white ball joints and tried to operate just the top (without hooking up the black pushrods on the clamshell). Started with the top closed, but unlatched. The windows went down halfway when I undid the latch. The top started to open, but, after it got about 8 inches from the top of the windshield, it just started cycling back and forth (in an arc of about 4 inches) and it did that regardless of whether I pushed the button in the up or the down direction.

After playing with that for a while, I used drills to power the top almost all the way down by spinning the cables. After the top was almost all the way down, I pressed the "up" button and the top started to close. When it got to about 6 inches from the windshield, it started to cycle again, back and forth in a 4 inch arc.

Again it would not respond any differently when I pushed the "down" button. I disconnected the front rod arms from the top and connected the clamshell with the pushrods to the V-lever. That operated the clamshell to the down position, but, not only would it not go back up, but the V-levers would only move in one direction regardless of whether I pushed the "up" or the "down" button.

I hooked up the cables to drills again and I got the clamshell up and disconnected and removed the V-levers. I am back to operating the top manually for now.

My questions (maybe Tool Pants or Mark in Sunnyvale will have some answers) are:

1. Have you seen something like this in your experience with these tops?

2. What is good starting point as far as the location of the half moon gear with the top almost closed.

3. Any suggestions on how I might proceed?

Thanks in advance.

Regards, 1schoir.

[Chris_in_NH]

well, i'm not TP or Mark, but i have a question. ;)

this sounds like a transmission problem at first read. but if you are using a drill to spin the cables (which turn the transmissions) and the top works with the drill, then maybe it's a conv cable motor problem? or maybe a relay malfunction?

i would remove the cables from the conv cable motor and put something in there (like a drill bit or something) so you can watch the rotation to see if it changes direction. that's what it sounds like is happening.

just thinking out loud...

[1schoir]

well, i'm not TP or Mark, but i have a question. ;)

this sounds like a transmission problem at first read. but if you are using a drill to spin the cables (which turn the transmissions) and the top works with the drill, then maybe it's a conv cable motor problem? or maybe a relay malfunction?

i would remove the cables from the conv cable motor and put something in there (like a drill bit or something) so you can watch the rotation to see if it changes direction. that's what it sounds like is happening.

just thinking out loud...

The top works with drills hooked up to the cables and it also operated from the almost completely open position all the way up to the almost closed position (about 6 to 8 inches from the windshield), when it started cycling back and forth again.

I willl see if I can dig up something like a speedometer cable to stick into the cable motor so I can watch the rotation as you suggested.

Regards, 1schoir.

[azzar0]

well, i'm not TP or Mark, but i have a question. ;)

this sounds like a transmission problem at first read. but if you are using a drill to spin the cables (which turn the transmissions) and the top works with the drill, then maybe it's a conv cable motor problem? or maybe a relay malfunction?

i would remove the cables from the conv cable motor and put something in there (like a drill bit or something) so you can watch the rotation to see if it changes direction. that's what it sounds like is happening.

just thinking out loud...

The top works with drills hooked up to the cables and it also operated from the almost completely open position all the way up to the almost closed position (about 6 to 8 inches from the windshield), when it started cycling back and forth again.

I willl see if I can dig up something like a speedometer cable to stick into the cable motor so I can watch the rotation as you suggested.

Regards, 1schoir.

1schoir,

I had a similar experience with my top - the transmission moved in the same direction regardless of what direction I pushed the button. I am in the process of upgrading the transmissions to the newer style and see if that helps. I will let you know. I have all the pieces I need (I think) and I am planning on getting it done this afternoon / evening.

I already have a thread about my top experience - I will post pictures and the steps I took in that thread.

Meanwhile, continue with the motor suggestion and see if it behaves the same way when it gets to the positions you mentioned. My guess is that the motor will operate normally unhooked, because you don't have the load of the transmissions / top, but it's just an uneducated guess. You could also try to unhook the top and see if the motor spins the transmissions in the right direction without the top connected, although I am not sure how that would help, except adding more details to your diagnosis.

Good Luck,

Azzar0.

[1schoir]

well, i'm not TP or Mark, but i have a question. ;)

this sounds like a transmission problem at first read. but if you are using a drill to spin the cables (which turn the transmissions) and the top works with the drill, then maybe it's a conv cable motor problem? or maybe a relay malfunction?

i would remove the cables from the conv cable motor and put something in there (like a drill bit or something) so you can watch the rotation to see if it changes direction. that's what it sounds like is happening.

just thinking out loud...

The top works with drills hooked up to the cables and it also operated from the almost completely open position all the way up to the almost closed position (about 6 to 8 inches from the windshield), when it started cycling back and forth again.

I willl see if I can dig up something like a speedometer cable to stick into the cable motor so I can watch the rotation as you suggested. Let me know what you discover when you install your new transmissions.

Regards, 1schoir.

1schoir,

I had a similar experience with my top - the transmission moved in the same direction regardless of what direction I pushed the button. I am in the process of upgrading the transmissions to the newer style and see if that helps. I will let you know. I have all the pieces I need (I think) and I am planning on getting it done this afternoon / evening.

I already have a thread about my top experience - I will post pictures and the steps I took in that thread.

Meanwhile, continue with the motor suggestion and see if it behaves the same way when it gets to the positions you mentioned. My guess is that the motor will operate normally unhooked, because you don't have the load of the transmissions / top, but it's just an uneducated guess. You could also try to unhook the top and see if the motor spins the transmissions in the right direction without the top connected, although I am not sure how that would help, except adding more details to your diagnosis.

Good Luck,

Azzar0.

Thanks for the info, Azzar0. I did unhook both sides of the V-lever from the rod arms and from the push rods and the V-levers kept going in one direction (CCW, I think) no matter if I pressed the button in the "up" or the "down" direction. What is strange is that last week, when I just hooked up the clamshell via the pushrods to the V-lever, I was able to operate the clamshell back and forth (up and down) and the up/down switch was responding correctly. I have not been able to duplicate that this last time.

I can't imagine how putting in new transmissions would help reverse the direction of rotation, but maybe I just don't understand what causes the reversal in direction.

I think I have to look into the big relay on top of the fuse box and into the mysterious relay that I have heard is located behind the driver's side B pillar.

I'll keep you up to date as well as I delve further into this.

Regards, 1schoir.

[azzar0]

Thanks for the info, Azzar0. I did unhook both sides of the V-lever from the rod arms and from the push rods and the V-levers kept going in one direction (CCW, I think) no matter if I pressed the button in the "up" or the "down" direction. What is strange is that last week, when I just hooked up the clamshell via the pushrods to the V-lever, I was able to operate the clamshell back and forth (up and down) and the up/down switch was responding correctly. I have not been able to duplicate that this last time.

I can't imagine how putting in new transmissions would help reverse the direction of rotation, but maybe I just don't understand what causes the reversal in direction.

I think I have to look into the big relay on top of the fuse box and into the mysterious relay that I have heard is located behind the driver's side B pillar.

I'll keep you up to date as well as I delve further into this.

Regards, 1schoir.

It sounds like your motor doesn't 'understand' up or down commands. It just turns in one direction (perhaps the last direction it remembers). It might be a relay issue, but I am not familiar with how they work. It would make sense that the relay is faulty since it is the one sending the signal to the motor.

I experienced something weird myself: I had everything hooked up and I was pushing the open / down button. The top went down, clamshell lowered in place, but the light on the dashboard won't go out. I kept pushing the button little by little until the motor stopped moving. The top was stuck, I couldn't move up or down at all. Once I snapped the pushrods off, the transmissions started to operate again. It was almost as if there was too much resistance and the motor stopped trying (perhaps it has a built-in resistance detection sensor?!?)

I wish someone who knows more about motors would read your thread and shed some light on this issue. I will try to find out more info as well.

Keep us all posted with your findings and good luck!

Azzar0

[mark in sunnyvale]

Hi 1schoir,

I think you bolted the lever the wrong way. The cycling back and forth and not reaching the top is symptomatic of having the gears inside the transmission in the wrong position relative to the V lever. Here's what I would suggest.

Spin each transmission following the down movement until the gears inside jumps off the teeth (I.E. CCW).

Reverse the spin to re-engage (ie CW)

Put your top in the down position. The trick is to have another boxster to take a look at and see how the V lever is supposed to face. I'll take alook when I get home tonight.

Adjust the lever to line up the black and red ball joint by spinning in the top up direction only. This is very important.

-Mark

well, i'm not TP or Mark, but i have a question. ;)

this sounds like a transmission problem at first read. but if you are using a drill to spin the cables (which turn the transmissions) and the top works with the drill, then maybe it's a conv cable motor problem? or maybe a relay malfunction?

i would remove the cables from the conv cable motor and put something in there (like a drill bit or something) so you can watch the rotation to see if it changes direction. that's what it sounds like is happening.

just thinking out loud...

The top works with drills hooked up to the cables and it also operated from the almost completely open position all the way up to the almost closed position (about 6 to 8 inches from the windshield), when it started cycling back and forth again.

I willl see if I can dig up something like a speedometer cable to stick into the cable motor so I can watch the rotation as you suggested. Let me know what you discover when you install your new transmissions.

Regards, 1schoir.

1schoir,

I had a similar experience with my top - the transmission moved in the same direction regardless of what direction I pushed the button. I am in the process of upgrading the transmissions to the newer style and see if that helps. I will let you know. I have all the pieces I need (I think) and I am planning on getting it done this afternoon / evening.

I already have a thread about my top experience - I will post pictures and the steps I took in that thread.

Meanwhile, continue with the motor suggestion and see if it behaves the same way when it gets to the positions you mentioned. My guess is that the motor will operate normally unhooked, because you don't have the load of the transmissions / top, but it's just an uneducated guess. You could also try to unhook the top and see if the motor spins the transmissions in the right direction without the top connected, although I am not sure how that would help, except adding more details to your diagnosis.

Good Luck,

Azzar0.

Thanks for the info, Azzar0. I did unhook both sides of the V-lever from the rod arms and from the push rods and the V-levers kept going in one direction (CCW, I think) no matter if I pressed the button in the "up" or the "down" direction. What is strange is that last week, when I just hooked up the clamshell via the pushrods to the V-lever, I was able to operate the clamshell back and forth (up and down) and the up/down switch was responding correctly. I have not been able to duplicate that this last time.

I can't imagine how putting in new transmissions would help reverse the direction of rotation, but maybe I just don't understand what causes the reversal in direction.

I think I have to look into the big relay on top of the fuse box and into the mysterious relay that I have heard is located behind the driver's side B pillar.

I'll keep you up to date as well as I delve further into this.

Regards, 1schoir.

[1schoir]

Hi 1schoir,

I think you bolted the lever the wrong way. The cycling back and forth and not reaching the top is symptomatic of having the gears inside the transmission in the wrong position relative to the V lever. Here's what I would suggest.

Spin each transmission following the down movement until the gears inside jumps off the teeth (I.E. CCW).

Reverse the spin to re-engage (ie CW)

Put your top in the down position. The trick is to have another boxster to take a look at and see how the V lever is supposed to face. I'll take alook when I get home tonight.

Adjust the lever to line up the black and red ball joint by spinning in the top up direction only. This is very important.

-Mark

Thanks for reply, Mark. I will follow these instructions and report back with either progress or further symptoms.

Do you reccommend that, (with all ball joints disconnected and with the cables disconnected on each side from the motor) I press the Up/Down button continuously for longer than it would take for the motor to get to its end point (say 30 seconds) in the down direction so that the motor's "position" is matched to the maximum down position as a starting point?

Also, do you know what sends the signal to the dashboard display to either light up or extinguish the "top open" light?

I did read in an old thread about someone putting in the V-Levers upside down (i.e, 180 degrees off) but I don't have another Boxster nearby or immediately available to ascertain the correct postion of the V-Levers but I will try to look for photos of where the V-levers are supposed to be in their travel when the top is in the maximum down position.

Regards, 1schoir.

[mark in sunnyvale]

ischoir,

Once the gear comes off, there's no reason to keep pressing. For some bizzarre reason, the transmission gear only spins one way. So while it's a half moon, it ony uses say a quarter of circle of rotation. The problem is if you don't have it synched correctly, it gets stuck in an up or down position. I spent 3 weeks trying to figure this out when I tried to fix my top. It took me a while to realize that the gears can only rotate one direction. I think I assembled/disassembled the joint at least 7 times in the process. Anyway, here's a picture of the driver side(US of course, for our international audience), taken from the top. So if you were to set yourself at eye level with the transmission (and you can see through the car's body), the position will be similar to you making an L with your left hand tilted slightly towards the front.

If I recall correctly, the top open light is set by the switch on the motor. I never had an electrical problem, so I never bothered with it. Can you PM me your email address, I have something that might help you troubleshoot.

The main idea is to get the top in a known position. Having the top down is the best way since this removes the effects of the red ball joint arm, etc out of the equation

-Mark

-Mark

Thanks for reply, Mark. I will follow these instructions and report back with either progress or further symptoms.

Do you reccommend that, (with all ball joints disconnected and with the cables disconnected on each side from the motor) I press the Up/Down button continuously for longer than it would take for the motor to get to its end point (say 30 seconds) in the down direction so that the motor's "position" is matched to the maximum down position as a starting point?

Also, do you know what sends the signal to the dashboard display to either light up or extinguish the "top open" light?

I did read in an old thread about someone putting in the V-Levers upside down (i.e, 180 degrees off) but I don't have another Boxster nearby or immediately available to ascertain the correct postion of the V-Levers but I will try to look for photos of where the V-levers are supposed to be in their travel when the top is in the maximum down position.

Regards, 1schoir.

Edited August 10, 2007 by mark in sunnyvale

[mark in sunnyvale]

1schoir,

By the way there's several switches on the top that determines your tops position, I won't even pretend I remember how they work. I think there were three switches. I don't know why pressing the button yields the same direction of motion. I don't recall running into that issue. Oh, don't try putting the top down without the clamshell installed. Without the clamshell, you won't hit the limiter which will cause damage to your levers.

Hi 1schoir,

I think you bolted the lever the wrong way. The cycling back and forth and not reaching the top is symptomatic of having the gears inside the transmission in the wrong position relative to the V lever. Here's what I would suggest.

Spin each transmission following the down movement until the gears inside jumps off the teeth (I.E. CCW).

Reverse the spin to re-engage (ie CW)

Put your top in the down position. The trick is to have another boxster to take a look at and see how the V lever is supposed to face. I'll take alook when I get home tonight.

Adjust the lever to line up the black and red ball joint by spinning in the top up direction only. This is very important.

-Mark

well, i'm not TP or Mark, but i have a question. ;)

this sounds like a transmission problem at first read. but if you are using a drill to spin the cables (which turn the transmissions) and the top works with the drill, then maybe it's a conv cable motor problem? or maybe a relay malfunction?

i would remove the cables from the conv cable motor and put something in there (like a drill bit or something) so you can watch the rotation to see if it changes direction. that's what it sounds like is happening.

just thinking out loud...

The top works with drills hooked up to the cables and it also operated from the almost completely open position all the way up to the almost closed position (about 6 to 8 inches from the windshield), when it started cycling back and forth again.

I willl see if I can dig up something like a speedometer cable to stick into the cable motor so I can watch the rotation as you suggested. Let me know what you discover when you install your new transmissions.

Regards, 1schoir.

1schoir,

I had a similar experience with my top - the transmission moved in the same direction regardless of what direction I pushed the button. I am in the process of upgrading the transmissions to the newer style and see if that helps. I will let you know. I have all the pieces I need (I think) and I am planning on getting it done this afternoon / evening.

I already have a thread about my top experience - I will post pictures and the steps I took in that thread.

Meanwhile, continue with the motor suggestion and see if it behaves the same way when it gets to the positions you mentioned. My guess is that the motor will operate normally unhooked, because you don't have the load of the transmissions / top, but it's just an uneducated guess. You could also try to unhook the top and see if the motor spins the transmissions in the right direction without the top connected, although I am not sure how that would help, except adding more details to your diagnosis.

Good Luck,

Azzar0.

Thanks for the info, Azzar0. I did unhook both sides of the V-lever from the rod arms and from the push rods and the V-levers kept going in one direction (CCW, I think) no matter if I pressed the button in the "up" or the "down" direction. What is strange is that last week, when I just hooked up the clamshell via the pushrods to the V-lever, I was able to operate the clamshell back and forth (up and down) and the up/down switch was responding correctly. I have not been able to duplicate that this last time.

I can't imagine how putting in new transmissions would help reverse the direction of rotation, but maybe I just don't understand what causes the reversal in direction.

I think I have to look into the big relay on top of the fuse box and into the mysterious relay that I have heard is located behind the driver's side B pillar.

I'll keep you up to date as well as I delve further into this.

Regards, 1schoir.

[1schoir]

ischoir,

Once the gear comes off, there's no reason to keep pressing. For some bizzarre reason, the transmission gear only spins one way. So while it's a half moon, it ony uses say a quarter of circle of rotation. The problem is if you don't have it synched correctly, it gets stuck in an up or down position. I spent 3 weeks trying to figure this out when I tried to fix my top. It took me a while to realize that the gears can only rotate one direction. I think I assembled/disassembled the joint at least 7 times in the process. Anyway, here's a picture of the driver side(US of course, for our international audience), taken from the top. So if you were to set yourself at eye level with the transmission (and you can see through the car's body), the position will be similar to you making an L with your left hand tilted slightly towards the front.

If I recall correctly, the top open light is set by the switch on the motor. I never had an electrical problem, so I never bothered with it. Can you PM me your email address, I have something that might help you troubleshoot.

The main idea is to get the top in a known position. Having the top down is the best way since this removes the effects of the red ball joint arm, etc out of the equation

-Mark

-Mark

Thanks for the explanation and the photo, Mark. I can now see how the V-Lever is supposed to be positioned with the top in the maximum down position.

So far, I've only taken the transmissions apart twice, and the pushrods and rod arms 3 or 4 times. I hope I don't get to 7 or more.

It's raining like crazy here, so I will have to wait until it stops to have at it again. I have PM'd you my e-mail address.

Regards, 1schoir.

[1schoir]

Hi 1schoir,

I think you bolted the lever the wrong way. The cycling back and forth and not reaching the top is symptomatic of having the gears inside the transmission in the wrong position relative to the V lever. Here's what I would suggest.

Spin each transmission following the down movement until the gears inside jumps off the teeth (I.E. CCW).

Reverse the spin to re-engage (ie CW)

Put your top in the down position. The trick is to have another boxster to take a look at and see how the V lever is supposed to face. I'll take alook when I get home tonight.

Adjust the lever to line up the black and red ball joint by spinning in the top up direction only. This is very important.

-Mark

Mark:

Thanks for sending me the information.

Although a few of the older threads on the subject in these forums discussed the V-levers and their position relative to the transmissions, it was not until I read the instructions that you sent me that I found an explanation for the "markings" on the outside of the transmissions. For anyone else who has looked for this answer but could not find it, here it is:

The instructions read as follows: (For transmission Version A [old style transmissions] Insert the flexible shaft of the convertible top gear to be adjusted into the drive motor and SET THE DRIVE LEVER (V-Lever) TO THE CENTRE OF THE MARKING NOTCHES with the rocker switch. Then (adjust convertible top gear on left and right synchronously).

For the newer style transmissions (Version "B") (after production date 03.05.199) [not sure whether that refers to March 5, 1999 or May 3, 1999 due to different European nomenclature for days/months/years] the instructions are similar, but it then specifies to measure 195 mm (+ or - 0.5 mm) from the center of the drive lever ball head to the upper edge of the side section sealing channel.

I have attached a photograph which I took of the psgr side transmission which clearly shows the "Marking Notches" and I have drawn in where the V-Lever is supposed to be for reference. (The marking notches are two on the left and two on the right, below the centerline of the transmission, on either side of the drawn-in V-lever.)

I believe that this is the proper starting point and I will attempt that and report back.

Regards, 1schoir.

[mark in sunnyvale]

I'm glad that helped. Keep us posted. I think Tool Pants was the first person to tell me that the dealer's tech used those markings for synching. I screwed up my timing so badly the first time, no amount of reading those instructions could get me to a good starting point until I did the all the way down, then up approach. If you're using a drill to sync, make sure that the torque setting is at the lowest setting.

[1schoir]

I'm glad that helped. Keep us posted. I think Tool Pants was the first person to tell me that the dealer's tech used those markings for synching. I screwed up my timing so badly the first time, no amount of reading those instructions could get me to a good starting point until I did the all the way down, then up approach. If you're using a drill to sync, make sure that the torque setting is at the lowest setting.

Mark:

Well, that was the key but in a roundabout way!

I was not making any more progress until I could figure out what was causing the V-levers to spin in only one direction no matter which way the Up/Down button was pushed.

It turns out that the B-pillar microswitch is what can be used if the motor will only spin in one direction. If you pull back the carpet-covered plastic panel on the driver's side B-pillar, you can see how that microswitch operates. It's sort of the opposite of most microswitches in that it will set off the relay when it is pulled (all the way) up. When the top is almost closed, just prior to latching, there is a piece on the bottom knuckle of the convertible top rear hoop that serves to pull up that microswitch. So if you ever have a problem with the top only operating in one direction no matter which way you push the button, just slip something around that microswitch lever and pull it forward and you will hear the relay at the driver footwell click. When it does, press the up/down button again and it will now operate the V-levers in the opposite direction of rotation.

You were partially correct with your observation that the V-levers might be bolted in the wrong way. More accurately, after I put the V-levers in line with the marking notches as in the V-levers that I sketched in, and hooked up the black push rods and the rod arms with the white plastic cups to the V-levers and the bottom knuckle of the top, I was still not able to operate the top in both directions. It would only get to a certain point and then the switch would either die or operate in only one direction.

The key turned out to be that the half-moon gears were actually the part that had to be rotated 180 degrees and at that point the V-lever had to be flipped upside down so that it fit between the marking notches. At that point, I hooked everything back up and voila, the top worked perfectly and the clamshell followed along perfectly as well. I think that by rotating the half moon gear around, it ends up somewhere near the middle of its 50 teeth and thus does not "fall off" the worm gear which is turned by the cable.

Here is a photo of the half-moon gear in the transmission. From this postion, you have to spin the cable so that the half-moon gear is near the middle of its travel. Then, when you install the transmission and install the V-lever (with the 19mm bolt torqued to 59 ft/lbs) you don't have far to go to line up the V-lever with the marking notches .

Here is a photo of the transmission showing the marking notches. The notches, in the way they are slanted, help you to make sure that you don't have the V-lever installed 180 degrees off.

Here is a photo of the B-pillar microswitch with the red arrow showing the little metal lever arm that must be pulled forward if your top only operates in one direction.

I was able to do the installation that finally worked with the top 2/3 of the way closed (about 12 inches from the windshield). At that point, I first hooked up the white plastic cups onto their ball joint, and then connected that part of the rod arm to the part that is already on the V-lever by means of that one 10mm bolt and thick washer. Then, after hooking up the end of the black pushrod with the clip to the clamshell arm, I maneuvered the clamshell so that the other end of the black pushrod could reach and be pushed firmly onto the ball joint on the rearmost part of the V-lever. I then did the same to the driver side and made sure the V-levers were in the same relative position on each side and that the clamshell was level when looking at it from behind. I also measured from the rear ball joint on the V-Lever to the bottom of the side rail (in which the lowest part of the clamshell arm slides back and forth in a sliding plastic cup) on each side and got about a 4 inch measurement (by taking a page of how the manual says to measure with the newer style transmissions (Version "B"), just to make sure the V-levers were synched.

I then pressed the button to open the top and everything worked!

This is the first time since I bought the car that the top has worked in the automatic mode and the former owner told me that it had not worked in "a couple of years" before I bought it from him. From what I have been able to learn and observe, it seems that this all started with one of the cables stretching and everything went downhill from there.

I want to express my gratitude to especially to Mark in Sunnyvale, to Tool Pants for the posts in the archives, to $Chris in NH and to Azzar0 for their invaluable help in getting this done. Without RennTech Forums, I was looking at a big $$ repair, (to say nothing of the feeling of accomplishment). :renntech:

Regards, 1schoir.

[1schoir]

I'm glad that helped. Keep us posted. I think Tool Pants was the first person to tell me that the dealer's tech used those markings for synching. I screwed up my timing so badly the first time, no amount of reading those instructions could get me to a good starting point until I did the all the way down, then up approach. If you're using a drill to sync, make sure that the torque setting is at the lowest setting.

Mark:

Well, that was the key but in a roundabout way!

I was not making any more progress until I could figure out what was causing the V-levers to spin in only one direction no matter which way the Up/Down button was pushed.

It turns out that the B-pillar microswitch is what can be used if the motor will only spin in one direction. If you pull back the carpet-covered plastic panel on the driver's side B-pillar, you can see how that microswitch operates. It's sort of the opposite of most microswitches in that it will set off the relay when it is pulled (all the way) up. When the top is almost closed, just prior to latching, there is a piece on the bottom knuckle of the convertible top rear hoop that serves to pull up that microswitch. So if you ever have a problem with the top only operating in one direction no matter which way you push the button, just slip something around that microswitch lever and pull it forward and you will hear the relay at the driver footwell click. When it does, press the up/down button again and it will now operate the V-levers in the opposite direction of rotation.

You were partially correct with your observation that the V-levers might be bolted in the wrong way. More accurately, after I put the V-levers in line with the marking notches as in the V-levers that I sketched in, and hooked up the black push rods and the rod arms with the white plastic cups to the V-levers and the bottom knuckle of the top, I was still not able to operate the top in both directions. It would only get to a certain point and then the switch would either die or operate in only one direction.

The key turned out to be that the half-moon gears were actually the part that had to be rotated 180 degrees and at that point the V-lever had to be flipped upside down so that it fit between the marking notches. At that point, I hooked everything back up and voila, the top worked perfectly and the clamshell followed along perfectly as well. I think that by rotating the half moon gear around, it ends up somewhere near the middle of its 50 teeth and thus does not "fall off" the worm gear which is turned by the cable.

Here is a photo of the half-moon gear in the transmission. From this postion, you have to spin the cable so that the half-moon gear is near the middle of its travel. Then, when you install the transmission and install the V-lever (with the 19mm bolt torqued to 59 ft/lbs) you don't have far to go to line up the V-lever with the marking notches .

Here is a photo of the transmission showing the marking notches. The notches, in the way they are slanted, help you to make sure that you don't have the V-lever installed 180 degrees off.

Here is a photo of the B-pillar microswitch with the red arrow showing the little metal lever arm that must be pulled forward if your top only operates in one direction.

I was able to do the installation that finally worked with the top 2/3 of the way closed (about 12 inches from the windshield). At that point, I first hooked up the white plastic cups onto their ball joint, and then connected that part of the rod arm to the part that is already on the V-lever by means of that one 10mm bolt and thick washer. Then, after hooking up the end of the black pushrod with the clip to the clamshell arm, I maneuvered the clamshell so that the other end of the black pushrod could reach and be pushed firmly onto the ball joint on the rearmost part of the V-lever. I then did the same to the driver side and made sure the V-levers were in the same relative position on each side and that the clamshell was level when looking at it from behind. I also measured from the rear ball joint on the V-Lever to the bottom of the side rail (in which the lowest part of the clamshell arm slides back and forth in a sliding plastic cup) on each side and got about a 4 inch measurement (by taking a page of how the manual says to measure with the newer style transmissions (Version "B"), just to make sure the V-levers were synched.

I then pressed the button to open the top and everything worked!

This is the first time since I bought the car that the top has worked in the automatic mode and the former owner told me that it had not worked in "a couple of years" before I bought it from him. From what I have been able to learn and observe, it seems that this all started with one of the cables stretching and everything went downhill from there.

I want to express my gratitude to especially to Mark in Sunnyvale, to Tool Pants for the posts in the archives, to $Chris in NH and to Azzar0 for their invaluable help in getting this done. Without RennTech Forums, I was looking at a big $$ repair, (to say nothing of the feeling of accomplishment). :renntech:

Regards, 1schoir.

One more note. For those of you experiencing the "back and forth cycling" as the top gets near its fully closed position (as described in my first post on this thread), that is caused by the B-pillar microswitch being tripped and "untripped" by the part that presses on it (at the bottom of the black knuckle of the B-pillar frame member of the convertible top). I haven't figured out how to adjust it so that it happens exactly when the top reaches the maximum closed position, so I may just replace that microswitch.

Regards, 1schoir.

[pk2]

I'm glad that helped. Keep us posted. I think Tool Pants was the first person to tell me that the dealer's tech used those markings for synching. I screwed up my timing so badly the first time, no amount of reading those instructions could get me to a good starting point until I did the all the way down, then up approach. If you're using a drill to sync, make sure that the torque setting is at the lowest setting.

Mark:

Well, that was the key but in a roundabout way!...

Here is a photo of the half-moon gear in the transmission. From this postion, you have to spin the cable so that the half-moon gear is near the middle of its travel. Then, when you install the transmission and install the V-lever (with the 19mm bolt torqued to 59 ft/lbs) you don't have far to go to line up the V-lever with the marking notches .

Here is a photo of the transmission showing the marking notches. The notches, in the way they are slanted, help you to make sure that you don't have the V-lever installed 180 degrees off.

Without RennTech Forums, I was looking at a big $$ repair, (to say nothing of the feeling of accomplishment). :renntech:

Regards, 1schoir.

Hello,

Sounds like you’ve grappled with a problem that’s vexed me for years. My Boxster was T-boned awhile back. The body shop neglected reattach some of the opening and closing mechanism (just as well I suppose…reading this thread)

Question, in your half moon pic, do you mean that unlike the image, the half moon gear should be centered, that is, it would rotate equal distances cw or ccw before it hits it’s stop? And, at this point, the arm will be roughly in the proper position?

If so, what position is the top in (I think you mention 12 in. form the windshield?) If all those ducks are in a row and the pushrods etc. are in place, should the top be good to go? Also, the micro switch, is their only one on the drivers side?

Thanks in advance for your reply. It’s really great to find a place where Porsche people aren’t afraid to get there hands dirty + have the smarts!

Thanks in advance.

Peter

P.S. PM me if you’d like.

Edited September 5, 2007 by pk2

[1schoir]

I'm glad that helped. Keep us posted. I think Tool Pants was the first person to tell me that the dealer's tech used those markings for synching. I screwed up my timing so badly the first time, no amount of reading those instructions could get me to a good starting point until I did the all the way down, then up approach. If you're using a drill to sync, make sure that the torque setting is at the lowest setting.

Mark:

Well, that was the key but in a roundabout way!...

Here is a photo of the half-moon gear in the transmission. From this postion, you have to spin the cable so that the half-moon gear is near the middle of its travel. Then, when you install the transmission and install the V-lever (with the 19mm bolt torqued to 59 ft/lbs) you don't have far to go to line up the V-lever with the marking notches .

Here is a photo of the transmission showing the marking notches. The notches, in the way they are slanted, help you to make sure that you don't have the V-lever installed 180 degrees off.

Without RennTech Forums, I was looking at a big $$ repair, (to say nothing of the feeling of accomplishment). :renntech:

Regards, 1schoir.

Hello,

Sounds like you’ve grappled with a problem that’s vexed me for years. My Boxster was T-boned awhile back. The body shop neglected reattach some of the opening and closing mechanism (just as well I suppose…reading this thread)

Question, in your half moon pic, do you mean that unlike the image, the half moon gear should be centered, that is, it would rotate equal distances cw or ccw before it hits it’s stop? And, at this point, the arm will be roughly in the proper position?

If so, what position is the top in (I think you mention 12 in. form the windshield?) If all those ducks are in a row and the pushrods etc. are in place, should the top be good to go? Also, the micro switch, is their only one on the drivers side?

Thanks in advance for your reply. It’s really great to find a place where Porsche people aren’t afraid to get there hands dirty + have the smarts!

Thanks in advance.

Peter

P.S. PM me if you’d like.

Peter:

I noticed in your other post that you stated that you have a MY99. The first thing you have to determine is whether you have the original style transmissions (Version A). Porsche changed over to "Version B" in May of 1999. If you have the half-moon gears, you have the "Version A", early style transmissions. Unfortunately they are the more troublesome ones, but they can be made to work properly.

In response to your questions:

1. The photo of the inside of the transmission showing the half moon gear shows the half moon gear before it has been rotated to its initial position, which is only used as a starting point. To get it to the initial position, you must temporarily install the V-Lever, making sure that the arms of the V-Lever are located in between the "marking notches", after you have seated the back of the V-Lever in the two slots provided for that purpose on the CENTER exposed section of the half-moon gear (after it has been re-assembled). Here is a photo of the marking notches with the V-lever sketched in:

In this photo, you can also see the two slots that I am referring to, (although they may not be in the proper position of rotation). (Note: this is photo of psgr side transmission).

Also, there are no "stops" for the half-moon gears. If they are out of adjustment, they will keep rotating, until they "pop" with a loud click or crunch. When all the pushrods are connected, if the half-moon gear goes past its last tooth, it goes off with that pop and then gets pulled back with the tension from the clamshell hydraulic pushrod, and then pops off again, and goes on like that until and unless you operate it in the opposite direction.

2. When you are in the initial starting position with the V-Levers in between the marking notches, the front of the convertible top should be positioned so that it is almost closed, between 2 to 12 inches from the top of the windshield. You will be able to assess this when you snap the white plastic ball cups (you may still have the earlier red plastic ball cups) onto the metal ball which is below the B-Pillar part of the convertible top frame. I found it easiest to dissassemble those pushrods at the middle, where they are held together by a 10mm bolt with a thick washer. Before you unscrew the 10mm bolt, mark the position of the front part onto the part that is attached to the V-Lever so that you have a point of reference. Once you press the white plastic ball cup onto the metal ball, you can then re-attach that front part to the part that is attached to the V-Lever and you should then find the front of the convertible top in the correct position.

3. There is only one microswitch in the B-Pillars, which is only on the driver's (left) side on the MY 97-99. On the later cars, or the ones where the transmissions have been replaced with the Version B transmissions, the microswitch is in the psgr (right) side transmission.

Make sure to also first verify that your drive cables are okay, as that is usually the initial cause of all of the problems on the cars with the early style transmissions. You have to pull the cables out from where they are inserted into the sides of the motor. Just pull the small metal clip upwards and pull the cable out. Then verify that you have 3/4" of the inner metal (speedometer type) cable sticking out. If you don't have that much sticking out of the outer black plastic sheath, the inner cable (when inserted) will not be engaged and the motor will not spin that side to rotate the transmission.

You also have to make sure that the inner cables have not become "unwound" or broken apart inside the black platic sheaths. If you spin each metal cable by inserting it in a drill (lowest torque setting), you will be able to tell if it's operating the transmission because the half-moon gear will rotate.

There is an excellent post by Tool Pants, with photos and a procedure for repairing or replacing the cables.

All of this should give you a place to start. Let us know how you progress or what roadblocks you run into.

Regards, Maurice.

[pk2]

I'm glad that helped. Keep us posted. I think Tool Pants was the first person to tell me that the dealer's tech used those markings for synching. I screwed up my timing so badly the first time, no amount of reading those instructions could get me to a good starting point until I did the all the way down, then up approach. If you're using a drill to sync, make sure that the torque setting is at the lowest setting.

Mark:

Well, that was the key but in a roundabout way!...

Here is a photo of the half-moon gear in the transmission. From this postion, you have to spin the cable so that the half-moon gear is near the middle of its travel. Then, when you install the transmission and install the V-lever (with the 19mm bolt torqued to 59 ft/lbs) you don't have far to go to line up the V-lever with the marking notches .

Here is a photo of the transmission showing the marking notches. The notches, in the way they are slanted, help you to make sure that you don't have the V-lever installed 180 degrees off.

Without RennTech Forums, I was looking at a big $$ repair, (to say nothing of the feeling of accomplishment). :renntech:

Regards, 1schoir.

Hello,

Sounds like you’ve grappled with a problem that’s vexed me for years. My Boxster was T-boned awhile back. The body shop neglected reattach some of the opening and closing mechanism (just as well I suppose…reading this thread)

Question, in your half moon pic, do you mean that unlike the image, the half moon gear should be centered, that is, it would rotate equal distances cw or ccw before it hits it’s stop? And, at this point, the arm will be roughly in the proper position?

If so, what position is the top in (I think you mention 12 in. form the windshield?) If all those ducks are in a row and the pushrods etc. are in place, should the top be good to go? Also, the micro switch, is their only one on the drivers side?

Thanks in advance for your reply. It’s really great to find a place where Porsche people aren’t afraid to get there hands dirty + have the smarts!

Thanks in advance.

Peter

P.S. PM me if you’d like.

Peter:

I noticed in your other post that you stated that you have a MY99. The first thing you have to determine is whether you have the original style transmissions (Version A)....All of this should give you a place to start. Let us know how you progress or what roadblocks you run into.

Regards, Maurice.

Hello Maurice,

Thanks a ton for your prompt and insightful reply. I’m hoping to put this baby to rest this weekend.

I believe I have the “a” type transmissions because it has the alignment marks for the v arm (unlike the “B” ?). Also, when I had one out and was messing around with it, I felt that dead spot…real head scratcher at the time. Oddly though, I believe I have later model cables in that they have a bumpy surface texture which, as I read here somewhere, is indicative of reinforced sheathing that doesn’t get stretched.

One other point (in my favor I hope), my top worked fine after the accident. It was my putting it back together (when the body shop didn’t) that I got in a pickle. Trying it out revealed a fundamental problem - a teeth nashing “thunk” and growl…with the top going nowhere. (probably the sound you were alluding to in your description of the misalignment of v bar)

The good news is I think that I could only bear the horrible sounds a couple of times. Hopefully I gave up before I could damage anything.

Half moon gear: In other words, your picture shows the gear approximately 180 degrees from where it wants to be (to be in the “Initial position”) for a ballpark alignment of the v arm with the notches. Or, to put it another way that single centered spoke should be point somewhere towards the black cable socket assembly thing. (I’m assuming that the slot for the v arm is permanently fixed, or part of, to the gear (no?)).

Also, walking through this thing in my mind, is that gearbox you have exposed actually the back side of the front cover? That is. the other side of that gear/case assembly pictured would face the inside of the conv. top compartment?

Roadblock potentials:

I unfortunately only have one of the original (albeit broken red socket) pushrods to reference the final, installed length of 2 new ones. Do you think its length would be representative of both sides? If not, any idea how to “tune” the lengths to operate right (maybe the stuff of another thread…dun-no).

What signals the top to stop moving (either up or down). I guess the door jam micro would be one. Another switch looking thing is above the drive motor (?). I also read there were 3 in total. Would they generate for mentioned stop signals? any adjustments there?

I’d kinda like to put this right without taking anything apart. As I recall, the manual says to disconnect the cable for one side (at the motor ) to align the opposite side and transmission/v arm. Once the v bar is aligned, how man degrees in each direction should it rotate without it leaving the gear and freewheeling (indicating gear misalignment)?

Anyway, I really appreciate your input. Read your whole thread (among others) and admire your methodical persistance in you're diagnosis.

Regards, Peter

[1schoir]

Hello Maurice,

Thanks a ton for your prompt and insightful reply. I’m hoping to put this baby to rest this weekend.

I believe I have the “a” type transmissions because it has the alignment marks for the v arm (unlike the “B” ?). Also, when I had one out and was messing around with it, I felt that dead spot…real head scratcher at the time. Oddly though, I believe I have later model cables in that they have a bumpy surface texture which, as I read here somewhere, is indicative of reinforced sheathing that doesn’t get stretched.

One other point (in my favor I hope), my top worked fine after the accident. It was my putting it back together (when the body shop didn’t) that I got in a pickle. Trying it out revealed a fundamental problem - a teeth nashing “thunk” and growl…with the top going nowhere. (probably the sound you were alluding to in your description of the misalignment of v bar)

The good news is I think that I could only bear the horrible sounds a couple of times. Hopefully I gave up before I could damage anything.

Half moon gear: In other words, your picture shows the gear approximately 180 degrees from where it wants to be (to be in the “Initial position”) for a ballpark alignment of the v arm with the notches. Or, to put it another way that single centered spoke should be point somewhere towards the black cable socket assembly thing. (I’m assuming that the slot for the v arm is permanently fixed, or part of, to the gear (no?)).

Also, walking through this thing in my mind, is that gearbox you have exposed actually the back side of the front cover? That is. the other side of that gear/case assembly pictured would face the inside of the conv. top compartment?

Roadblock potentials:

I unfortunately only have one of the original (albeit broken red socket) pushrods to reference the final, installed length of 2 new ones. Do you think its length would be representative of both sides? If not, any idea how to “tune” the lengths to operate right (maybe the stuff of another thread…dun-no).

What signals the top to stop moving (either up or down). I guess the door jam micro would be one. Another switch looking thing is above the drive motor (?). I also read there were 3 in total. Would they generate for mentioned stop signals? any adjustments there?

I’d kinda like to put this right without taking anything apart. As I recall, the manual says to disconnect the cable for one side (at the motor ) to align the opposite side and transmission/v arm. Once the v bar is aligned, how man degrees in each direction should it rotate without it leaving the gear and freewheeling (indicating gear misalignment)?

Anyway, I really appreciate your input. Read your whole thread (among others) and admire your methodical persistance in you're diagnosis.

Regards, Peter

Peter:

The slot in the V-lever is actually the center of the back part of the half-moon gear. Don't worry about which position the slots are facing, because when you temporarily install the V-Lever and its base sits in the slots, having the V-Lever positioned between the marking notches (by rotating each cable in turn) the slots will also be positioned correctly.

The photo that shows the half moon gear exposed is actually the back side (outboard when mounted in the car) of the transmission after a black plastic cover is removed (with three small screws). Here's a photo of the the back side with the cover still on:

The three small phillips screws with no arrows pointing towards them are the ones that hold the half moon cover on. If you unbolt the transmissions from the car, and inspect the back of each one, make sure that you snug up the five other phillips screws to which the red arrows are pointing. If those screws (with the red arrows) are not tight, the worm gear under that cover can skip. The yellow arrow is pointing to the housing for the worm gear that is turned by the other end of the cables. The white arrow shows a BMW emblem embossed into that small plastic cover. I have wondered if this mechanism is used in BMW convertibles but don't know yet.

The one broken red plastic ball cup push rod should be adequate to use to approximate the length of the two new (white plastic ball cup) push rods you will have to get. They can be adjusted for length with the 10mm bolt and thich washer that holds them together. You can also make a fine adjustment by turning the plastic ball cup on its threaded rod (but not more than 1 1/2 to 2 turns). As I posted before, that adjustment will come last and it allows you to line up each side of the front edge of the convertible top so that the two tongues fit into the slots onto the top frame of the windshield.

The movement of the convertible top is controlled by the main relay that is located in the relay carrier above the fuse box in the driver's side footwell. It controls the top stopping and starting through the tripping of the microswitches in the B-Pillar and in the lever over the motor (under the clamshell). There are two other microswitches that are located in the latch mechanism, and one of those two controls the "dipping" of the windows when the latch is unlocked. The main relay also causes a short period of "after running time" which briefly continues after the clamshell presses down on that lever on top of the motor. A poster named JPorter posted a detailed procedure, with photographs, on how to adjust this pre-programmed after running time by adding some custom-made electronic components but I don't think you are in a position to consider that yet. It does make for some educational reading though.

There are no adjustments in the B-pillar microswitch or in the microswitch above the motor, but the small metal lever arm of the B-Pillar microswitch can bend and that will cause the switch to trip earlier or later, and that will in turn change the direction of travel of the top.

I'm not sure about how many degrees the half moon gear will rotate before it "falls off" at the last of its 50 teeth, but if you align the V-lever between the marking notches it should have enough teeth on each side to operate properly.

If you disconnect the cable for one side (at the motor), as the manual says, I believe it refers to the fact that the opposite side can then be aligned by pushing the button on the dash board. I have found it more accurate to use a drill (lowest torque setting) to spin each cable in turn. It also doesn't drain the car battery.

Regards, Maurice.

[pk2]

O.k. Maurice,

Thanks again for all your advice.

My tie rods came in today and I have read your thread upside-down and backwards several times. So tomorrow I'm jumping in. Plan in a nutshell is as follows:

1)Take the transmissions out

2)Check cable ends at motor (to short or unwound)

3)Take of the back covers off transmissions

4)Rotate the gear around with a drill drive so that the teeth face primarily towards cable thing (see pics)

5)Push v bar on and further drive the cable to align v bar with notches on housing face.

6) Snug screws of little black housing down

7) Reinstall back panel and reinstall transmission assems.

8) Re-attach cables to motor

9) Put tie rods on while loosened at middle joint. Top should be about 4-12in from at this point

10) Adjust pushrods crudely with middle joint and fine tune by rotating white, thread ball ends to line up each side of the front edge of the convertible top so that the two tongues fit into the slots onto the top frame of the windshield.

Few little grey areas…

1) The center screw indicated with one of the red arrow in your last illustration looks like a nut with a slotted, threaded, headless screw in the middle. Is this cinched down as a single unit (screw and nut rotated together), or just the center headless screw that’s twisted?

2) Do I need to ad grease to gear, if so, anything special?

3) Still a little fuzzy as to where the gear should be when the v bar/ gear is right. As I understand it there are 2 possible positions 180 degrees from each other, both of which would allow for the v-bar to be aligned with the notches on the housing. It may be obvious when I open the transmission up.

I've run a few "assembly in motion" scenarios thru my head, If you can, please see the attached images and tell me which on is closest to the approximate correct position: A, B or C.

Your feedback is appreciated, correct me where I’m wrong & I'll assume your "good luck" .

Regards, Peter

P.S. things didn't go as planned...99% sure I mounted the v arms upsidedown (180 off)...not woried. But I've also got electrical problems, top won't go up, motor will noit run in reverse (with everything disconected See my new thread at http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...st=0#entry78820

Edited September 9, 2007 by pk2

[1schoir]

O.k. Maurice,

Thanks again for all your advice.

My tie rods came in today and I have read your thread upside-down and backwards several times. So tomorrow I'm jumping in. Plan in a nutshell is as follows:

1)Take the transmissions out

2)Check cable ends at motor (to short or unwound)

3)Take of the back covers off transmissions

4)Rotate the gear around with a drill drive so that the teeth face primarily towards cable thing (see pics)

5)Push v bar on and further drive the cable to align v bar with notches on housing face.

6) Snug screws of little black housing down

7) Reinstall back panel and reinstall transmission assems.

8) Re-attach cables to motor

9) Put tie rods on while loosened at middle joint. Top should be about 4-12in from at this point

10) Adjust pushrods crudely with middle joint and fine tune by rotating white, thread ball ends to line up each side of the front edge of the convertible top so that the two tongues fit into the slots onto the top frame of the windshield.

Few little grey areas…

1) The center screw indicated with one of the red arrow in your last illustration looks like a nut with a slotted, threaded, headless screw in the middle. Is this cinched down as a single unit (screw and nut rotated together), or just the center headless screw that’s twisted?

2) Do I need to ad grease to gear, if so, anything special?

3) Still a little fuzzy as to where the gear should be when the v bar/ gear is right. As I understand it there are 2 possible positions 180 degrees from each other, both of which would allow for the v-bar to be aligned with the notches on the housing. It may be obvious when I open the transmission up.

I've run a few "assembly in motion" scenarios thru my head, If you can, please see the attached images and tell me which on is closest to the approximate correct position: A, B or C.

Your feedback is appreciated, correct me where I’m wrong & I'll assume your "good luck" .

Regards, Peter

Peter:

From the list of steps that you made, it looks like you have everything covered.

1) The center screw. Just make sure it is snug. I would hold the center shaft steady with a small regular screw driver and tighten down the nut.

2) Add White Lithium Grease to the parts that mesh: Half-moon gear tooth surfaces will transfer the lithium grease onto the worm gear.

3) The way to tell that you are not 180 degrees off is by making sure that the V-lever arms are lined up (and that each edge of each side of each V-Lever arm is) parallel with the marking notches. In other words, if you are 180 degrees off, the arms of the V-Lever will cross the marking notches, not continue along them. Try to picture extending the marking notches towards the middle and towards the edges of the transmission housing. If you do that, you will see that you cannot put them in upside down. Again, make sure that the tabs on the back of the center of the V-Levers are temporarily SEATED into the slots in the center of the half-moon gear part that shows through the transmission housing.

Looking at your images, it's definitely not "A", and will end up, I believe, somewhere between "B" and "C". But again, don't try to judge it from the half-moon gear side, look at it from the marking notches perspective with the V-Levers temporarily installed. I say temporarily installed because you will have to remove the V-Levers to press the foam lining and the black plastic (round) friction plate back in position before installing the V-Lever in its final position.

Finally, be careful not to overtighten the 3 nuts that hold each transmission in place on the body. The correct torque is only 16 ft/lbs. The torque value for the 19mm bolt that fasten the V-Levers onto the center of the half-moon gear is 59 ft/lbs and originally had (blue ?) loctite.

Regards, Maurice.

[pk2]

Hi Maurice.

I've started a new/continuation thread @ http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=15824 , Thought this one was getting a bit lenghty. Took a stab at seting up the convert. with dicey results. You’ve been a tremendouse help starting me in the right direction & advice. Please tune in to the new thread and pipe in as you see fit

Regards, Peter