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Recommended Posts

Posted

Well i disconnected my battery for more than 15 minutes before diving nose deep into a DIY repair for my horn. When i put everything back together and let the car idle for a bit, set my time and entered the radio code. I went for a drive and noticed that i have no pull/torque past 4000 RPMs. Is this normal, should the torque come back after a certain amount of miles? I drove more than 70 miles already and still not pull/torque past 4000 RPM range. The torque feels way to linear and flat, I feel nearly no g's when accelerating past 4000 rpm's.

I did however forget that i left ignition on when i was working in the 2 torx screws to keep the steering lock disabled, Then reconnected the battery with the ignition in the ON position by accident... Could that have jacked something up?

Right now, i just disconnected the battery, im going to let it sit for maybe 30-40 minutes and hopefully that clears anything stuff up.

Posted

UPDATE: no change after reconnecting battery after 1 hr. Im going to try using MAF cleaner on the MAF since it might be a coinsedence but it feel awfully similar to the time the MAF needed to be cleaned and the power instantly came back after the cleaning.

Posted
UPDATE: no change after reconnecting battery after 1 hr. Im going to try using MAF cleaner on the MAF since it might be a coinsedence but it feel awfully similar to the time the MAF needed to be cleaned and the power instantly came back after the cleaning.

Carlos:

I was always told that after the DME is unplugged the computer will need to "re-learn". It shouldn't last more than a couple of days to a week of driving. The more you drive it, the faster it will go through the proccess.

Posted

Thanks der Geist, I guess it feels odd to me cause i never really experienced this much power loss from disconnecting the battery before in this boxster. Is there maybe a old thread where someone discusses this that i could read over? i looked and found alot of other stuff but nothing relating close enough to my issue.

  • Moderators
Posted

I replaced the battery in my 1997 in the Autozone parking lot yesterday morning. Started the car and drove to work on the freeway. Car operated just like it did on the drive from my home to Autozone.

Posted
UPDATE: no change after reconnecting battery after 1 hr. Im going to try using MAF cleaner on the MAF since it might be a coinsedence but it feel awfully similar to the time the MAF needed to be cleaned and the power instantly came back after the cleaning.

I have the same problem since I disconnected the battery on my 2001. I went to the dealer and they told me there was a lot of code(I guess it's because I started the car without the cluster). They downloaded the factory settings but it's the same, no power, really noticable at 4000 rpm.

  • Moderators
Posted

The old battery was out about 15 minutes while Autozone rang up the new battery. I my 8 years I have had the battery out for the day. Like when I removed the battery tray. Like when I took it out to charge the battery on my work bench. At our work on cars we take the battery out for about 2 hours to install a cd changer. We also disconnect the battery for about an hour when we do the OBC retrofit.

Never had your problem. Some owners remove their battery for the winter with no problems.

Asked Peter Smith and he said having you ignition key on should not matter. He asked if you had e-gas and I told him no. The DME adapts in 5-10 minutes if codes have beeen cleared - but you did not do that. He wanted to know if it will not rev up while you are sitting still. He also suggested you disconnect the air flow sensor and see if it revs up. Most common cause for a hesitation at that rpm range is the air flow sensor.

Posted (edited)

Thanks for asking him for me ToolPants, to answer your question, Yes it Rev's up just fine during idle and under load while in gear. It feels like it has good power in the low RPM range until the RPM's hit 4000 rpm and then the torque stops and the rpm begin to climb like usual but work no torque.. Im going to try cleaning the MAF friday.

If I were a Porsche ASE certified technician... Which im not, I would say that the MAF is not sending the correct voltage reading to the DME so the DME thinks more air is entering the intake than actually is, there for the DME is ordering up more feul than is needed.

Edited by CJ_Boxster
Posted

UPDATE: Cleaned the MAF with Mass Airflow Sensor cleaner purchased from Pepboys, disconnected the battery for 15 seconds and the problem went away and all the power came right back. Im as happy as a seatle citizen on a sunny warm day.

Posted
UPDATE: Cleaned the MAF with Mass Airflow Sensor cleaner purchased from Pepboys, disconnected the battery for 15 seconds and the problem went away and all the power came right back. Im as happy as a seatle citizen on a sunny warm day.

Carlos after reading the update I ran to PEPBOYS to get the cleaner, did the job and it fixed the problem... :clapping:

Thanks for the help.

Posted
Great! dont you just love your boxster all over again?

Maybe I don't remember how it drove before but I still feel everytime I get to 4000 rpm with full throttle it hesitates. If I do it again without full throttle it seems to be better. I reprogrammed the E-GAS and it still does it. I wonder if the mass air flow would be the problem even if the check engine light is not on. The dealer told me that the mass air flow was within specs when he checked it last week. Could it be as stupid as a fuel filter. I bought the car at 40000 miles and I don't know if it was replaced before. I have 50000 miles now.

Posted

You can try replacing the Fuel Filter, Not sure if that would help, it different with every car. My box had 100k miles on the original filter and didnt feel a difference when I replaced it... I did also replace the feul pump and that cleared up my low-rpm hesitation but i never had a problem with High-end until my MAS acted up.

Maybe you can find someone in Atl Ga thats willing to let you barrow there MAF for a quick ride around the block to check if that clears up your hesitation issue, if so, you then would know that you need a MAF.

Posted

I have to disconnect the batt soon to pull apart a door panel, and now you guys got me worried!!!!!!!!

Even if the MAF Sensor needs cleaning and that make the correction, what is causing the problem in the first place (what's disconnecting a battery have to do with that?? And how do any of us really know if our Boxsters are performing correctly in the first place? I had my '01 for only a month and have nothing to compare it to.

Bob

Posted

I think that the DME adjust with the MAF as its condition deteriates and runs fine until u disconnect the battery and the DME has to relearn the charactoristics of the MAF and other sensors and since the MAF is too dirty, the DME has a hell of a time trying to relearn with it and ends up losing the high end torque. thats my theory, probably wrong but meh.

Posted (edited)
I think that the DME adjust with the MAF as its condition deteriates and runs fine until u disconnect the battery and the DME has to relearn the charactoristics of the MAF and other sensors and since the MAF is too dirty, the DME has a hell of a time trying to relearn with it and ends up losing the high end torque. thats my theory, probably wrong but meh.

i don't agree with your theory. i think your MAF is going bad and that's why you're having issues. there is a simple test you can do to see if your MAF is bad. disconnect the MAF wiring harness from the MAF (but leave the MAF in place). disconnect the negative battery cable for (at least) a minute, the re-connect it. this will reset the DME. (if you disconnect the battery for less than a minute, the DME will remember the MAF settings and the car will run the same). start and drive the car (with the MAF wiring harness disconnected). this will not hurt your car in any way. if your car runs better (high-end torque returns, etc.) then your MAF is bad. to double-check this, re-connect the MAF wiring harness, disconnect (for at least a minute) and re-connect the battery again, and then start the car. see if the high-end torque disappears again. if it does, then you can be sure that you need a new MAF. you may have already tried this, i can't remember.

I have to disconnect the batt soon to pull apart a door panel, and now you guys got me worried!!!!!!!!

Even if the MAF Sensor needs cleaning and that make the correction, what is causing the problem in the first place (what's disconnecting a battery have to do with that?? And how do any of us really know if our Boxsters are performing correctly in the first place? I had my '01 for only a month and have nothing to compare it to.

for itzbob46, you don't need to worry about disconnecting your battery at all. the reason that CJ Boxster is having problems is probably because his MAF is bad (or going bad), not because he disconnected the battery. MAFs do get 'dirty' and sometimes the problem can be fixed (for a short while) by cleaning them. but eventually all MAFs get to the point where cleaning them has no effect and you just have to spring for a new one. if you think that your car is running normally, then it probably is. after you get to know the car for a while, you'll be able to notice a performance loss pretty quickly. no worries. ;)

Edited by Chris_in_NH
Posted
I think that the DME adjust with the MAF as its condition deteriates and runs fine until u disconnect the battery and the DME has to relearn the charactoristics of the MAF and other sensors and since the MAF is too dirty, the DME has a hell of a time trying to relearn with it and ends up losing the high end torque. thats my theory, probably wrong but meh.

i don't agree with your theory. i think your MAF is going bad and that's why you're having issues. there is a simple test you can do to see if your MAF is bad. disconnect the MAF wiring harness from the MAF (but leave the MAF in place). disconnect the negative battery cable for (at least) a minute, the re-connect it. this will reset the DME. (if you disconnect the battery for less than a minute, the DME will remember the MAF settings and the car will run the same). start and drive the car (with the MAF wiring harness disconnected). this will not hurt your car in any way. if your car runs better (high-end torque returns, etc.) then your MAF is bad. to double-check this, re-connect the MAF wiring harness, disconnect (for at least a minute) and re-connect the battery again, and then start the car. see if the high-end torque disappears again. if it does, then you can be sure that you need a new MAF. you may have already tried this, i can't remember.

I have to disconnect the batt soon to pull apart a door panel, and now you guys got me worried!!!!!!!!

Even if the MAF Sensor needs cleaning and that make the correction, what is causing the problem in the first place (what's disconnecting a battery have to do with that?? And how do any of us really know if our Boxsters are performing correctly in the first place? I had my '01 for only a month and have nothing to compare it to.

for itzbob46, you don't need to worry about disconnecting your battery at all. the reason that CJ Boxster is having problems is probably because his MAF is bad (or going bad), not because he disconnected the battery. MAFs do get 'dirty' and sometimes the problem can be fixed (for a short while) by cleaning them. but eventually all MAFs get to the point where cleaning them has no effect and you just have to spring for a new one. if you think that your car is running normally, then it probably is. after you get to know the car for a while, you'll be able to notice a performance loss pretty quickly. no worries. ;)

I want to say that there are a lot of knowledgeable people on this forum and I’m very happy to be a member. I just disconnected the MAF and my car came back to life… I will be replacing the MAF tomorrow. Thanks to CJ BOXSTER and CHRIS in NH for the great help.

elrover

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