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Air fan not working


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So I just did an oil change myself and felt sort of like a man. MY99 with about 96K miles on the odo and I'm driving today feeling sort of proud that I didn't screw up the oil change and how there's nothing wrong with the car....of course then I notice the air conditioner is not working or rather the fans are not blowing. I stop turn the A/C on and off and it looks like it is working, check the front radiators and they are blowing, but no matter what I push the fans are not blowing.

Any ideas as to what might be the problem?

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Well, there may not really be a problem. I think it's normal to feel like a man when you change your oil or for that matter work on your car. I remember I felt sort of like a woman when rolling out the crust for the home made turkey pot pies I made from scratch.

And oh, the radiator cooling fans an A/C are unrelated.

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So I just did an oil change myself and felt sort of like a man. MY99 with about 96K miles on the odo and I'm driving today feeling sort of proud that I didn't screw up the oil change and how there's nothing wrong with the car....of course then I notice the air conditioner is not working or rather the fans are not blowing. I stop turn the A/C on and off and it looks like it is working, check the front radiators and they are blowing, but no matter what I push the fans are not blowing.

Any ideas as to what might be the problem?

Philhan,

I know this seems strange but have you had any trouble with your ignition switch? Before my ignition totally failed the air conditioning quit working,

While I was driving I giggled the ignition key (becuase the key felt funny when I started the car) and the air came back on. At my next stop the ignition failed.

If it is your switch there is a great DIY on this site.

Just my own experience.

Phillipj

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Iginition switch is ok.

I ran the Durametric code reader and it throws up Fault Code 31: Motor, fresh air-fan voltage too low or voltage too high.

I checked the fuses but could not find one for the motor fresh air fan. Anyone know?

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  • Admin

Fault code 31 -- Voltage too low, Voltage too high

Potential causes:

No control module fault stored.

Supply voltage OK.

Nominal blower voltage > 3 volts.

Nominal blower voltage stabilized.

post-1-1185129350_thumb.png

Voltage too low

Note - Voltage too low means that the measured blower voltage lies below the nominal blower voltage.

1. Check the heating activation relay. Battery positive voltage must be present at terminal 87 when the ignition is switched on.

2. Unplug connector C from the heating/air-conditioning control.

3. Connect voltmeter to C 14 (positive) and ground. Switch on ignition.

Display: Battery voltage

4. Push connector C on the heating/air-conditioning control.

5. Connect voltmeter to C 14 (positive) and C 11 (negative). Maximum blower speed

Display: approx. 12 V

Minimum blower speed

Display: approx. 0 V

6. Connect voltmeter to C 14 (positive) and C 16 (negative).

Maximum blower speed

Display: approx. 5 V

Minimum blower speed

Display: approx. 9 V

7. Check driver. Connect voltmeter to positive and pin 3 on driver connector.

Display: Battery voltage

Connect voltmeter to positive and pin 1 on driver connector.

Maximum blower speed

Display: approx. 5 V

Minimum blower speed

Display: approx. 9 V

Connect voltmeter to positive and pin 2 on the driver connector.

Maximum blower speed

Display: approx. 12 V

Minimum blower speed

Display: approx. 0 V

8. Check wiring from heating/air-conditioning control to driver for continuity.

9. Check blower motor.

Voltage too high

Note - A higher blower voltage can only be caused by a short to ground on the wires to pins 1 or 2 of the driver.

1. Unplug connector C from the heating/air-conditioning control.

2. Unplug connector from the driver.

3. Connect ohmmeter to C 16 and ground.

Display: infinite ohms

4. Unplug connector from the fan motor.

5. Connect ohmmeter to driver connector pin 2 and ground.

Display: infinite ohms

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Today is just not my day.

I was messing with my fusebox just to make sure that it wasn't just a blown fuse. I don't know why but then I disconected my battery. I re-connected everything and then I try to start my car and it is totally dead. I turn the key and the engine is not turning over at all.

Now I get a bunch of fault codes:

fault code #: 3, 24,25, 31, and P1602--Power supply open circuit.

HELP

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  • Admin

Check all of your fuses and once you are sure they are good.

1. Disconnect your battery - wait 5 minutes.

2. Reconnect your battery.

3. Turn the ignition switch to "on" - but do not start the car and do not touch the accerator pedal for 1 minute. Then turn the car off.

4. Start the car as you normally would.

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Hi Loren:

Thanks for the quick replies.

Did as stated and nothing.

Still getting the same codes:

P1602--factory fault code 108--Power Supply Open Circuit

24, 31, 3,

I don't know what I did to cause all this. Any other ideas Loren or do I have to visit the dealer?

Thanks

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  • Admin

P1602 Terminal 30 missing.

- Fuse faulty.

- Open circuit.

- Battery was disconnected.

- DME connector was unplugged.

Troubleshooting:

Check the battery - replace if bad.

Check fuse C1 - replace if bad.

Check wire terminal 30 (main power) continuity - repair wire harness.

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  • 5 weeks later...

Ok, so I seem to be having the same problem now. My fan is not blowing any air. I have noticed my ignitin switch seeming "harder" to put the key in and out. My 996 only has 43k miles on it. When I get back to my car, I'll wiggle the key to see if the air comes back on.

Now if that's not it, then where is the relay box for the heater acutuator? I don't have a diagnostic tool to check for the fault codes. Does anyone know if the one at Autozone will give these codes? They are good about checking fault codes for free. Now if it is the low voltage code, I take it the relay is bad. Anyone know where it is?

Thanks guys!

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  • Admin
Ok, so I seem to be having the same problem now. My fan is not blowing any air. I have noticed my ignitin switch seeming "harder" to put the key in and out. My 996 only has 43k miles on it. When I get back to my car, I'll wiggle the key to see if the air comes back on.

Now if that's not it, then where is the relay box for the heater acutuator? I don't have a diagnostic tool to check for the fault codes. Does anyone know if the one at Autozone will give these codes? They are good about checking fault codes for free. Now if it is the low voltage code, I take it the relay is bad. Anyone know where it is?

Thanks guys!

What fan? front fender fans? or engine compartment fan?

Sounds like the first thing you need to do is replace your ignition switch - before it completely fails.

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  • 3 weeks later...
Ok, so I seem to be having the same problem now. My fan is not blowing any air. I have noticed my ignitin switch seeming "harder" to put the key in and out. My 996 only has 43k miles on it. When I get back to my car, I'll wiggle the key to see if the air comes back on.

Now if that's not it, then where is the relay box for the heater acutuator? I don't have a diagnostic tool to check for the fault codes. Does anyone know if the one at Autozone will give these codes? They are good about checking fault codes for free. Now if it is the low voltage code, I take it the relay is bad. Anyone know where it is?

Thanks guys!

What fan? front fender fans? or engine compartment fan?

Sounds like the first thing you need to do is replace your ignition switch - before it completely fails.

Well i just started to have the same problem with my air conditioner fan not blowing. I was just wondering if you found out what the problem was and if you did, how do i fix it. It's getting really hot in san diego.

Thanks,

Michel

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  • 2 weeks later...
Ok, so I seem to be having the same problem now. My fan is not blowing any air. I have noticed my ignitin switch seeming "harder" to put the key in and out. My 996 only has 43k miles on it. When I get back to my car, I'll wiggle the key to see if the air comes back on.

Now if that's not it, then where is the relay box for the heater acutuator? I don't have a diagnostic tool to check for the fault codes. Does anyone know if the one at Autozone will give these codes? They are good about checking fault codes for free. Now if it is the low voltage code, I take it the relay is bad. Anyone know where it is?

Thanks guys!

My problem turned out to be the ignition switch. It was a little pain to change, but it works perfectly now!

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  • 3 years later...

My 99, 996 had the same problem. First I had problems getting the key in and out. I had to twist the lock to the left a bit to insert of remove the key. Then I noticed that the heater fan blower was not working. The DIY on the ignition switch was great! I got the part from a local NAPA for only $11.12.

The only issue I had was on the set screws that hold the switch. You can't really see them so I did not know if they were Phillips or flat head, so I had to experiment. Turns out you need a small flat head screwdriver to get at them. There is not a lot of room in there, so the shorter the screwdriver handle, the better. A head mounted flash light is also a must.

Overall it was not difficult to do, and the DIY was invaluable!

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 5 months later...

I am experiencing the same problem with my '99 996 Tiptronic. Purchased the car 2 weeks ago with 30,000 miles (50,000 kms). Fan for ac stopped working at the same time my daytime running lights (Canadian car) also have issues - I am only able to have the park lights illuminate - no low beams. High beams will work. Also noticed that the rear window defroster does not work either. (all were working during the PPI and for the first 2 weeks / 500 miles)

No problems starting the car and no sticky ignition. Any suggestions?

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