987 battery dead - key stuck since ?!

[csory]

Four days ago forgot the key in the ignition in my MY06 987S. Two days later tried to start the engine, just to find that the whole thing is totally dead. Opened the front hood via the "official" jumper cable method, removed battery (was down to 7V or so...) and recharged. Now battery back, car starts and runs fine - but can not remove the key. I can hear that the steering lock is not "kicking in" when turning the key CCW and the lock won't release the key itself. Dash lights remain on, as if the key would be always in "on" (not "ignition") position. Checked all fuses - are fine.

Any ideas please?

[Tool Pants]

Not up on the new cars. Have been told that if the battery dies you cannot remove the key. But I would have thought that once the battry is charged you could then remove it.

Try this. Behind the fuse cover there is a metal rod that is used to remove the key with a dead battery. You stick that rod in a hole next to the ignition switch. I think there is a diagram on how to do this on the whte folded paper on the back of the fuse cover.

[csory]

Thanks!!! :renntech:

Tried - and worked (could remove the key). However, car still not fine. Symptoms:

1. Durametric keeps saying that "rear module failed to initialize" and "gateway error code: C112 display CAN". I guess this is not normal. (Also the AWS and PASM modules fail to initialize, but not sure if this is a bug or a feature...)

2. If I push in the key, I can hear the steering lock disengaging / engaging again when removing the key. However, once I switch Ignition to On key is stuck again (again need the metal pin to remove).

3. External temperature display keeps reading "-.--" instead of an actual value.

4. I guess that I have connected the external battery with reversed polarity while first trying to open front lid. Barke lights went on, nothing else happened. Could I have fried something?! :(

[Westcoaster]

Not up on the new cars. Have been told that if the battery dies you cannot remove the key. But I would have thought that once the battry is charged you could then remove it.

Try this. Behind the fuse cover there is a metal rod that is used to remove the key with a dead battery. You stick that rod in a hole next to the ignition switch. I think there is a diagram on how to do this on the whte folded paper on the back of the fuse cover.

Hmmm, my06 doesn't seem to have that tool. Are the dealers in the habit of removing this rod for some reason?

Csory: What about taking it ot the dealer, sounds like there is an electrical issue, maybe the computer needs to be 'reset' (if this is even possible), being an my06 it is still under warranty. Don't know if I would mention the 'possibility' of connecting the jumper battery reversed though...

[csory]

Hi Westcoaster,

Tomorrow morning will give it a try. However, the warranty is already gone - guess what will they think when they hear the 997 engine purring in it :D

Just to be precise: it was not a jumpstart, just the "battery-less open the front" via the designated fuse terminal. I _think_ that the emergency circuit is protected against reverse polarity (why would it turn on brake lights otherwise?)

As for the metallic piece, dunno if the stealers have a "collecting" habit - but nothing special, a regular bike spoke or any hard wire would do the job...

[csory]

Local Porsche dealer will not take a look before next monday... :(

Been searching through the forums and came up with an idea: is it as easy to replace the switch in my 987 as it is in the 986 (and are the parts identical)? Sounds like a worthy try to replace the switch with a VAG part (Audi/VW).

[Westcoaster]

Wow, I didn't notice your signature, a 3.6 in there, so would this make it an 'SS'? Curious what the rated horsepower would be?

So did you buy the 987 new and then replace the engine, or buy the car with the 3.6 engine already installed?

Anyway back to the key thing, when I talked to my dealer about modifying the car he as much said, if the warrantly claim has nothing to do with the non-approved parts you installed we generally honor it. He gave the example of the HID light kit I was installing and said, if you came in for a clutch problem, it has nothing to do with the lights.

[csory]

Well, I bought the car as new in Nov 2005 with the 3.2 engine. It was later modified up to 3.6 displacement (not a simple bore job because of the nikasil liners). After a while got the engine blown, which was accepted as a warranty claim by the tuning company (TTP - very nice guys). Then they implanted a factory-new 997 3.6 engine and gone through all the hassle (original ECU could not handle valve lifting because only the MY07 3.4 engine has introduced VarioCam Plus on the Boxster). Had to write a specific ECU software to handle my car (new engine, old Box peripherials) but it is fine now. Engine cranks out about 350HP on dyno (modifed intake, exhaust and ECU over a "factory" 997 3.6).

As for my current problem, I'm trying to convince myself that it is a simple key switch problem :) Will see on Monday. Unfortunately here are only 3 certified Porsche mechanics in this area, two of them got flu. No kidding :(

[Tool Pants]

Spoke to a mechanic at my local dealer today. From what little I understood:

If you reverse the polarity of the jumper then a fuse will blow. But I told him your fuses were fine. He then said that maybe a power surge damaged the ignition switch, as when there are problems with the switch the key cannot removed without the rod.

He said to bring it in and play dumb. If the ignition switch is bad he said they can't tell how it happened.

[csory]

Thanks ToolPants!

Will definitely give it a try Monday morning - and hope for the best. I'll look as dumb as I am :) Do you think it is worth to try to replace the switch as a DIY job or just leave it to the big boys? (Not a big deal on the 986 as I have found it in the DIY forum but no info on the 987...)

[csory]

Problem solved. Dealer replaced the whole ignition key module (I guess the switch went south). I let them know beforehand that the car was "slightly modified" (cough) but they told me that the engine / ECU replacement has nothing to do with a broken ignition key module - and fixed it under warranty. Very nice.