Stereo Question

[Lyn]

My 2003 Boxster S came with door and dash mounted speakers and the CDR23 head unit. The sound leaves a lot to be desired, so I was well on my way toward product improvement and have ordered the PNP rear speaker system. I have also been in contact with Andy Morris and was planning to use his "how-to" instructions for updating the door and dash speakers until we got th the amp question.

I had expected that my CDR23 would be paired with a 6X40W amp in line with the M490 option, but instead I have a Becker BE660 DSP amp and have no idea what size amp or how many channels it has and whether I can use it paired with the speakers recommended in Andy's tutorial.

Any guidance that any of you might have would be highly appreciated.

Lyn

[Cassiebox]

I'm not 100%, but 99% certain you have a 6 channel amp that would be 40W per channel. You can easily add the PNP kit and drive them w/ this amp. Andy's speakers will work w/ your system. However, I'd recommend finding/using door speakers that are better matched to your amp's ratings. Since it's 40W peak from the amp, you'll want to look for speakers that can go 45Hz or lower, have a high sensitivity rating (like 91dB or higher), 2 Ohm and have a RMS rating of 2-40W (or higher on the top range # if need be). Couple reasons for this:

1. any speakers rated w/ RMS higher (on the low #) will not be able to maximize the power given to it by the amp to produce good low end (bass) - especially at softer volume levels

2. (VERY IMPORTANT REASON) your system's architecture (based on MY and your h/u) is the MOST fiber optic system. So unlike Andy's (or my) system, you cannot upgrade to a better amp w/out either getting a MOST (fiber-optic) capable amp (not too many out there - if any anymore) or by replacing the head unit too and re-wiring everything from the h/u to the amp.

For the baffles, I put on the wiki last fall a template for making the door baffles. Definitely works on a '99 and should work for yours too but usual discalimers apply. My template does not require any extra drilling and utilizes the OEM screws and hole locations. Use Andy's instructions for everything else including the wood size etc. but I think you'll like the template I created. Here is the link:

http://boxster.wikia.com/images/b/bf/Door_...le_Template.pdf

FWIW, from the amp to the speakers, your system is the exact same - meaning copper wire not fiberoptics. Also, if you get a crossover w/ your new speakers, which you probably will, you do not need to use it. Just wire directly up to the woofers on your new speakers and leave the tweeters as decoration. The OEM amp has a low pass filter built in so your tweeters wount get any power anyhow. I'm not sure of it's cut-off point but in any case there is no need to mess around trying to locate a place to put in the crossover.

Good luck and enjoy your new sound system! It's really worth upgrading.

[Charlestonboxster]

It is indeed really worth upgrading.

An option: If you don't mind spending a bit more, for $600-$800,

consider a new head unit and 4-5 channel amp.

The extra power makes a big difference when the top is down.

You can black out (paint) some of the head unit buttons

if it does not blend in as well as you would like.

Another option for the baffles is to buy a set cut and painted for you from

Jamey, Rawlings Audio, LA <$75. See Audio post in DIY section.

Edited April 27, 2007 by Charlestonboxster

[Lyn]

Thx to both "Cassiebox" and "Charlestonboxster" for your quick and detailed input. I'm stereo stupid, so any and all information and guidance is of great value. Cassiebox indicated that we both had the same model HUs installed , so the next question is what speakers did you end up installing in your doors and dash mounts? I'm not into re-discovering the world, so if what you installed worked please pass on what specific speaker models you decised to use.

Thx again to both of you,

Lyn

[Cassiebox]

Thx to both "Cassiebox" and "Charlestonboxster" for your quick and detailed input. I'm stereo stupid, so any and all information and guidance is of great value. Cassiebox indicated that we both had the same model HUs installed , so the next question is what speakers did you end up installing in your doors and dash mounts? I'm not into re-discovering the world, so if what you installed worked please pass on what specific speaker models you decised to use.

Thx again to both of you,

Lyn

Lyn-

We do not have the same h/u. I'm just familiar w/ your model #. Anyhow, I used the following to upgrade my sound system:

-PNP rear speaker kit

-transplanted a 6x40 amp from a 996 to power the rears (mine only came w/ a 4x40 amp)

-changed dash speakers to infinity reference 4" coaxials

-made custom baffles for doors and put in Infinity Kappa 6.75" drivers

I'm not an audiophile by any stretch and there certainly are much better speakers out there. But these sound great compared to the stock crap (paper cones and all).

Good luck and have doing your upgrades!

[atmorris]

If I were doing mine again, I would probably go with Infinity drivers in both the doors and the dash, then replace the (4) 3" drivers in Harvey's kit with Infinity's as well. Not that Henry's drivers are bad, I just don't like mixing drivers.

If you never plan to change the HU and AMP, then consider using midbass drivers for the doors, otherwise I would put coaxials in the doors so that I could use them full range later when I changed the amp and HU, and just add a compact powered sub like the Kenwood unit behind the pass seat for stronger bass later on.