MAF Service

[flyboyshell]

Hi Guys,

I know you have seen tons of the same postings, but I was wondering if someone can give me some good advice on what I can service while I have the engine compartment open. I intend on cleaning my MAF, etc.

Can someone also provide me with a good procedures on how to clean the MAF without causing further damage? What equipment will I need, etc.

Any advice is always appreciated.

Secondly:

I have some issues with my ignition switch as well. I have replaced the switch itself several times. Each time I replace the switch it works fine for about 2-3 days, engine starts on first turn. However, after some time this changes. Basically everything seems fine. I put in the key, turn on the ignition, lights come on, etc. However, when I try start the car, nothing. I basically have to hold the key in the start position until the car eventually starts. Sometimes this can take 1-2 minutes. Does anyone have any advice on this.

Sheldon

By the way, this is for my 2000 Porsche Boxster.

Edited April 12, 2007 by flyboyshell

[PTEC]

I would try your luck with the new switch from Porsche. You can tell if you have new switch if the electrical portion is white and black. The old switch is solid black. The mechanical portion does fail as well, but in order to use the new switch you need to replace the mechanical portion anyways but I think its only about 150 bucks for the entire steering lock and new ignition switch assembly. The new switch seems to be pretty fail proof.

Edited April 12, 2007 by PTEC

[Chris_in_NH]

'if it ain't broke, don't fix it!' ;)

if you are not having problems that point to the MAF, i would leave it alone. i know it's tempting to do stuff to your car while you have the engine compartment open, but i would just leave it.

just my $.02

[CJ_Boxster]

I basically have to hold the key in the start position until the car eventually starts. Sometimes this can take 1-2 minutes. Sheldon

By the way, this is for my 2000 Porsche Boxster.

When your holding the key in the "Start" position, is the engine cranking but not firing up or is it doing NOTHING at all?

If its cranking but not starting, then likely you have a bad MAF, when my MAF went bad i had the same symptoms you are having. It would start and i would drive, then turn it off and it wouldnt start for 15 minutes after trying to restart the car.

[Chris_in_NH]

If its cranking but not starting, then likely you have a bad MAF, when my MAF went bad i had the same symptoms you are having. It would start and i would drive, then turn it off and it wouldnt start for 15 minutes after trying to restart the car.

this doesn't sound MAF-related to me at all.

an easy way to see if it's the MAF is to disconnect the electrical wiring harness from the MAF, reset the DME/ECU by disconnecting the neg battery cable for a few minutes (have radio code handy if you need one), reconnect neg battery cable, and then starting the car. you will basically be running MAF-less with the DME/ECU reset to default values.

if the car starts normally - consistently - then maybe it is the MAF. but my guess is that it's the ignition switch.

[flyboyshell]

I am actually getting an engine light with the P1128&P1130 codes, hence the reason for my cleaning the MAF.

The ignition is the white switch. So I am confused about which one is the latest switch.

[Chris_in_NH]

I am actually getting an engine light with the P1128&P1130 codes, hence the reason for my cleaning the MAF.

The ignition is the white switch. So I am confused about which one is the latest switch.

i'm not sure which one is the latest switch, but regarding your 1128/1130 codes, i would check for vacuum leak. the usual suspects are the oil filler cap, cracked oil filler tube, torn Air/Oil Separator bellows tube, etc.

has the A/OS ever been replaced? that bellows tube is NOTORIOUS for tearing and creating 1128/1130 codes. $10 says that's what it is. ;)

[flyboyshell]

I am actually getting an engine light with the P1128&P1130 codes, hence the reason for my cleaning the MAF.

The ignition is the white switch. So I am confused about which one is the latest switch.

i'm not sure which one is the latest switch, but regarding your 1128/1130 codes, i would check for vacuum leak. the usual suspects are the oil filler cap, cracked oil filler tube, torn Air/Oil Separator bellows tube, etc.

has the A/OS ever been replaced? that bellows tube is NOTORIOUS for tearing and creating 1128/1130 codes. $10 says that's what it is. ;)

Chris, do you know where I can located these bellow tubes, etc. I appreaciate your advice.

[Rodger]

It's below the air/oil seperator (AOS), where the AOS connects to the engine. It's simply a small corrugated rubber tube. The AOS is the device in the lower center of this pic:

You might be able to get your hand down there to feel the bellows tube if you're pretty slender. If yuor AOS doesn't look exactly like the one in the pic, you have the older style.

[flyboyshell]

Thanks Roger. I will make a note of this.

What type of cleaners do most people use for the cleaning of the MAF, etc.

[4agdtym]

What type of cleaners do most people use for the cleaning of the MAF, etc.

I use a quick drying electronic cleaner that leaves no residue. I got it a a local hardware store for a few bucks.

[mikefocke]

Here

Instructions Here

[flyboyshell]

Ok. So I serviced the MAF. This is the first time I replaced the air filter since I purchased the Porsche. :eek: Dang! Was that old filter filthy! No wonder I was getting a bad MAF reading.

Ok, so I cleaned the MAF, replaced the filter and gave the engine a cleaning. So far, no CEL and the car purrrrrssss beautifully. Also, before all of this I remember there were very sweet smelling fumes when the car idled. Now there is no smell or sweet fumes. What a pleasure. I think the dirty MAF caused a lean burn. Correct me if I am wrong, Loren.

All I am dealing with now is the ignition switch, CD reading problem and the AC controller LCD display.

I guess this is the JOY of owning a Porsche.

[dphil66]

I was having the same problems with the ignition switch. Turns out it was not the ignition switch, but even simpler. Of course, I only found this out AFTER I did the pain in the butt job of replacing the ignition switch.

If you don't want to upgrade to the new revised Porsche part, which includes the mechanical steering lock and the switch (about $115 from the dealer), then just buy the VW-Audi part. Just search for it on eBay, the old-style switch can be had for about $15, but it's a VW part.

After I replaced my switch, the ignition sure felt a lot more "new", but the problem persisted.

Check the two switches that are actuated by the clutch pedal. There are two - one tells the car the clutch pedal has JUST begun to be depressed, and cuts the cruise control. The other switch tells the car that the clutch pedal is all the way on the floor. I'm not sure about this part, but I *think* that both switches have to be activated to start the car. If not, then at least the one that tells the car that the clutch pedal is all the way down.

These are simple switches, and the one that tells the car that the clutch pedal is fully depressed has a little metal tang on it that, over time with thousands of clutch pedal actuations, gets distorted. I just bent the little tang back into place, and BAM! Starts perfectly every time.

If the problem keeps coming back, the tang may be fatigued to the point that it won't hold its shape. In that case, just replace it. That's next for me...but it's very easy to get to, to remove, and the switch can't be too expensive...

Best of luck,

Dan

[flyboyshell]

Thanks Dan, I will look into that and let you know of the outcome.

[CJ_Boxster]

Ok, so I cleaned the MAF, replaced the filter and gave the engine a cleaning. So far, no CEL and the car purrrrrssss beautifully. Also, before all of this I remember there were very sweet smelling fumes when the car idled. Now there is no smell or sweet fumes. What a pleasure. I think the dirty MAF caused a lean burn. Correct me if I am wrong, Loren.

OWNED Chris_in_NH :clapping: