faulty ignition switch

[liifesfun]

Symptoms - like others, lights dont switch on correctly, radio is still on when key is fully turned off, key doesnt spring back from start position (the return spring seems to be reversed as if its jumped a pawl)

This to me seems like the typical ignition switch problem.

My questions are

1. Is the switch at he back of the lock the problem or is it the lock (porsche told me that to change the switch you need a new lock as they dont support the orignal swich, its superceded)

2. I am told that the switch is the same as used by audi part #M5050-63421, can anyone confirm that?

3. does anyone have a guide to replacing the switch and or lock, are there any tricks?

Under what circumstances does the computer need reprogramming, if at all.

Bruce

Edited April 3, 2007 by liifesfun

[Richard Hamilton]

I can't believe you haven't found this, which should answer all your questions:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=493

Someone did a nice write-up on there for RHD cars! ;) ;)

[liifesfun]

I can't believe you haven't found this, which should answer all your questions:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=493

Someone did a nice write-up on there for RHD cars! ;) ;)

Richard

many thanks, I think I probably only did a search on the boxster forum not the whole site inc 996, which raises the question is the 996 interior generaly the same as the 986 behind the facade?

Bruce

[Loren]

is the 996 interior generaly the same as the 986 behind the facade?

Yes.

[liifesfun]

Bought a new switch $45 from Porsche dealer, initially they told me they dont have them but when I followed up with a "little more knowldge" from this site, they told me I need not go to the audi dealer, they had an Audi part in stock.

Very, very envious of those that took 15 minutes, I can see how it could be especially if it has been replaced and not sealed or loctite'd, mine wouldnt budge, had to remove the side vents and the speaker, the speaker hole gives great vision from above. I cant see that RHD would make much difference but it took me 2-3 hours

I ended up get some carby cleaner and a cotton bud which loosened up the red sealer, like everyone else, improvised on the tool.

Thanks to all who contributed their experience over the last few years to this subject

I have a photo of the screw, I'll post so you can see what your trying to loosen off.

Good news is the car is going and doing all the right things.

Interested to know if anyone who replaced theres, loctite'd the screws, with the history of these switches, I didnt bother as the screws didnt exactly "spin in: there was reasonable resistance probably from residual sealer.

Bruce

Symptoms - like others, lights dont switch on correctly, radio is still on when key is fully turned off, key doesnt spring back from start position (the return spring seems to be reversed as if its jumped a pawl)

This to me seems like the typical ignition switch problem.

My questions are

1. Is the switch at he back of the lock the problem or is it the lock (porsche told me that to change the switch you need a new lock as they dont support the orignal swich, its superceded)

2. I am told that the switch is the same as used by audi part #M5050-63421, can anyone confirm that?

3. does anyone have a guide to replacing the switch and or lock, are there any tricks?

Under what circumstances does the computer need reprogramming, if at all.

Bruce

Edited April 4, 2007 by liifesfun

[Tool Pants]

The mechanics I have spoken to out my local dealer did not put anyting on the set screws. The switch on my 1997 has been replaced twice by the dealer and there is nothing on the screws.

[liifesfun]

The mechanics I have spoken to out my local dealer did not put anyting on the set screws. The switch on my 1997 has been replaced twice by the dealer and there is nothing on the screws.

TP, good feedback, makes sense doesnt it

[liifesfun]

Note RHD the screws are opposite to LHD (North American models)

RHD is more difficult as the screws are accesed from on top hence you may need to use this approach

Photo of the screw that needs to be loosened (theres 2 of them)

The number 3 bit gives an idea of the size bit or driver you need

Note the red sealer in the slot of the screw, this needs to scrapped of so you can loosen the screw, it can be difficult to scrap it out of the slot of the head of the screw so a screw driver will fit and also to get it out of the thread, as mentioned in this thread , a liitle solvent on a a cotton bud may help

ignition switch viewed through vent, the switch is in front of the pink connector

its a 2 minute job to take this out, it allows a good view of the ignition switch screws when scrapping the red sealer off, this is if you choose the method of removing the side vent, its more involved and requires the removal of more ducting but you may need to use this appproach if you cant loosen the screws, Take it gentle with the side vent as there are a couple of plastic levers that pop off easily and stop the vents from moving

contact me if you need further info

bruce

Bought a new switch $45 from Porsche dealer, initially they told me they dont have them but when I followed up with a "little more knowldge" from this site, they told me I need not go to the audi dealer, they had an Audi part in stock.

Very, very envious of those that took 15 minutes, I can see how it could be especially if it has been replaced and not sealed or loctite'd, mine wouldnt budge, had to remove the side vents and the speaker, the speaker hole gives great vision from above. I cant see that RHD would make much difference but it took me 2-3 hours

I ended up get some carby cleaner and a cotton bud which loosened up the red sealer, like everyone else, improvised on the tool.

Thanks to all who contributed their experience over the last few years to this subject

I have a photo of the screw, I'll post so you can see what your trying to loosen off.

Good news is the car is going and doing all the right things.

Interested to know if anyone who replaced theres, loctite'd the screws, with the history of these switches, I didnt bother as the screws didnt exactly "spin in: there was reasonable resistance probably from residual sealer.

Bruce

Symptoms - like others, lights dont switch on correctly, radio is still on when key is fully turned off, key doesnt spring back from start position (the return spring seems to be reversed as if its jumped a pawl)

This to me seems like the typical ignition switch problem.

My questions are

1. Is the switch at he back of the lock the problem or is it the lock (porsche told me that to change the switch you need a new lock as they dont support the orignal swich, its superceded)

2. I am told that the switch is the same as used by audi part #M5050-63421, can anyone confirm that?

3. does anyone have a guide to replacing the switch and or lock, are there any tricks?

Under what circumstances does the computer need reprogramming, if at all.

Bruce

Edited April 7, 2007 by liifesfun