Engine Break-in Experiences?

[Blurrrr]

Hello There Fellas,

I bought my 2006 997-C2S from Florida with 2000 miles on it.

As I was getting it Canadianized at my local Porsche dealership,

a very meticulous mechanic noticed an anti freeze stain on the

bottom of the block, that he diagnosed as a pourous Block Casting.

As the service manager said "Not a big deal, but for a Porsche this is

unacceptable". So they replaced the engine-LOL. Now I have to break

this new engine in. The manual does say, not to exceed 4200 RPMs for

the first 2000 Miles. I would like to get from some advise, from

anybody that has gone thru this, if there are any other hints you

may have, to optimize the engine breakin.

Cheers,

Kurt

Edited March 29, 2007 by Blurrrr

[Hank]

I heard a lot of conflicting stuff about this when I got my new C2S -- stories like the break-in period is more for the driver than the car because of the traditionally "unique" handling characteristics of Porsches (and the company's concern about lawsuits) and that mechanically you can drive them like you stole them from the minute you take delivery. Then I remembered an article in Road and Track where they attributed an incredibly strong performing S to a "proper break-in." There are also a couple of threads here where owners described reduced oil consumption and better performance after a thorough break-in. So, I decided to suck it up, live with the "wimp" taunts, and follow the recommendation of 4000 RPM for the first 2000 miles. I don't know whether it had any effect, but my car uses virtually no oil and is really really strong; it is much faster than my Corvette was and my friend doesn't think that his Weber-carbed 289 Cobra can stay with it, although we haven't (and won't) put that to the test. Anecdotes are not evidence of anything, but doing it by the book can't hurt.

Enjoy.

[Ed Novak]

Another break in recommendation that I received is to NOT drive the car for short hops for the first 1,000-1,500 miles. My dealer strongly recommended that, If I turn on the key, to then drive the car for a minimum of 15-20 minutes at a time during break in to allow the engine oil and parts to reach full operating temperature. This allows all of the parts, gaskets, etc. to fully expand and contract, which is important to proper break in. Driving the car for 3 minutes to the corner grocery store is to be avoided. He claims that the RMS leak never occured on cars that he sold in which this procedure was followed, but did occur when the owner just couldn't resist repeated short hops. My dealer worked for Porsche at the factory/headquarrters for several years and was on their racing team, so he has credibility. Interestingly, when I mentioned this to a buddy who has a Masters in ME and Material Science, he fully agreed and followed that same procedure with his car (E55).

Edited March 29, 2007 by Mellonhead

[Westcoaster]

I always loved that saying " drive it like you stole it"! Reminds me of Nicholas Cage in Gone in 60 seconds! :thumbup:

Anyway, I am still in the break-in period with my 987, just reached 2400km (1500 miles), so I have a little way to go yet. Staying below 4200 rpm is tough since I have owned this car since last October and it seems like I should be able to 'open it up' but I resist the urge. That is not to say I haven't taken it to 5000 rpm when need to avoid slowing other traffic, I just don't make a habit of winding it out.

I believe that all mechanical surfaces that are designed to interface with each other should be broken in for optimum seal and part longevity, taking it easy during this process allows the oil system to remove any material that gets ejected from between these surfaces and as the theory goes, be trapped in the filter. If the reward is a longer lasting, more reliable engine then I will resist during the recommended break-in period.

I don't know if the following is true, but the service adviser at my local dealer said that the OBC records various engine parameters such as maximum temperature and engine RPM in a log that can be downloaded and checked in the event of a warranty claim.

You can choose which reason encourages you to follow break-in practices, for me both combine to make a worthwhile case.

[Deanski]

Did you get a copy of April issue of Excellence? They provided info on why the break-in period is so long for the USA. Remember, there is Mobil-1 in that engine, which is a very high grade lubricant.

What the Porsche rep from the factory says in Excellence (page 34 under Tech Notes) "break the car in like you were going to drive it". The golden rule is: the harder you push the motor after an easy 300-500 miles, the faster the break-in will be completed. Remember, you'll also have higher oil consumption during his time.

Always use the correct viscosity of Mobil-1. Since the motor as VarioCam, it needs the specific grade for it to work correctly.

Regards,

Deanski

[Blurrrr]

Thanks alot guys,

All very good advise-I guess it maybe about 2000 miles

before I get the Stereo and Nav sussed out anyway.

I will try and excersise the engine beween 2000-4000 rpm,

keep varing the speed, and take it for a few long tours- ;)

Thanks again,

Kurt

[Orient Express]

Having had several new 996 engines, I can say that the most important aspect of breaking in a green engine, is to let it fully warm up before it is driven aggressively. Once it is fully warmed up, then it can be driven in the higher RPM ranges just fine, but let it warm up first!

[Edgy01]

There is no firm method to guaranty anything when it comes to breaking in an engine. I went through the whole break in routine per the factory direction (under 5000 for 2000 miles) and have continued to use 1 quart of oil every 1000 miles. I have 14,000 on the clock now. It's gotten no better, or worse. The factory claims that you can get as bad as only 650 miles per quart of oil with these things and they are still considered acceptable.

Dan