Droplink movement

[GOB]

For a while I have complained about front suspension clunking type noise when I go over bumps and I thought it was the top strut bearings, but I have perhaps found another source. I put the car on a lift and the front right side droplink has quite a bit of play where it attaches to the sway bar (anti roll bar). I'd venture to guess its a tad less than 1/4" play and I can easily get to move it with my thumb (in an up and down direction). The left side has some, but I really have to use some force (up and down) to get barely any movement (but there is some). The rear droplinks had as much movement as the front left. Question is: is there supposed to be any movement at all on these? :eek: I took a pry bar to the control arms and they moved a bit without making any noise and the bushings seemed to flex fine. My rear sway bar bushings do have some play and show some wear and tear, odd thing is that no noise from the back, just in the front.

Lesson: buy a car that is as mint as possible and is NOT a good idea to get a "fixer upper" since all the fixing will eventually frustrate you, even if you saved money in the long run :blush:

[Richard Hamilton]

Play in the anti-roll bar drop links is a common fault on the 996 and 986. I have replaced all four of mine.

[GOB]

Just as follow up, I replaced the front droplinks and the clunking noise from the front suspension is completely gone! :thumbup:

When I held the old ones, the bolts were so loose that they would not hold in a still position and instead would immediately droop.

For those interested, replacement of these is EXTREMELY easy (I watched the tech do it and paid $25 for it). You basically raise the front end, remove tires, turn the wheel to better expose the droplinks, each end of it requires an open end wrench and a socket. Installation of the new ones is the reversal of removal. All in all, took less than 20 minutes to do both sides.

[Scouser]

I think I have this problem. I too get a clunk from front when I go over a hump.

I have a feeling a drop link has a different name here in the UK though albeit I dont recall what its called. Maybe rod ends.

Anyway, can someone please post a pic of what the drop link looks like so that I know what needs replacing.

Also part numbers would help.

Cheers

[GOB]

Here are the part numbers:

996-343-069-03-M100

996-343-070-03-M100

Its number 5 on the attached diagram. If you remove one of your front wheels and then turn it "toward the other side, away from you" you will clearly see this relatively thin bar (think width of a regular pencil) right in front of you.

[Scouser]

Thanks heaps GOB. I checked them this eve and sure enough there is a lot of play there.

Will order them up and replace.

Cheers again

[Richard Hamilton]

The PET shows a different number for C4's - 996 343 073 04 (not 'handed')

[GOB]

My bad, I should have specified that the part numbers I listed above are for a 98 996 C2. The dealer told me that they are the same for all 98-01 996 C2s and even Boxsters. :oops:

[mrcarrera2]

I have a similar suspension noise on my 2000 model 996. I have read various threads and most people point to the anti-roll bar or swaybar droplinks as the cause.

I have had my car on the ramps and checked the droplinks and cant see any obvious wear or movement.

Can anyone tell me how to properly check the droplinks?

Do I need to remove them from the car or should I be able to see / feel the movement if they are worn and need replacing?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.......the clunking noise is driving me mad!!!

[Poze123]

Hi all

 

I just need some advice on replacing the front drop links on my 1999 996 anti-roll bar,

 

I basically cannot get the top ball joints of (seized on) - I remove the 19mm nut but cannot get the top ball joint to budge from the strut that its bolted to - i've tried hammering it ('carefully') but it wont move. I cant really get a spanner to the inner side (17mm ) due to the shape of the suspension its bolted to .

 

Is there a tool I can use to get this released, or should I buy a gas heat gun (I've got an electric heat gun)? or do I need to just hit it harder with a lump hammer....?

 

The bottom ones come out easily once I undid the nuts - just a small tap and they released.

 

Many thanks,

Paul

[Hilux2400]

Cut off the head of the ball so that you can get a socket on the hexagon below.  Remove the lock nut.  Heat the hub carrier (electric gun OK) near the through bolt with a heat gun and spray with penetrating oil.  Do this a few times.  Wiggle the socket and perhaps use an impact wrench. It will come out with persistence.  Try not to use a hammer.

 

On one side mine came out easily, but on the other side like yours it was solid.

 

Don't forget that when you take the through bolt out the shock absorber clamping will be lost.  Make sure you re-clamp the shock absorber in the same place or you could alter the camber angle.  However, it shouldn't move too far as there is a guide ring on the strut where the bolt goes through.   

 

Good luck.