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Posted

The top on my 98 Boxster doesn't rise properly. It starts rising normally, and the clamshell rises and lowers evenly. But about half way through, just before the top clears the roll bars, the drivers side slows down. After a few more inches there's a pop, then the drivers side catches up with the passenger side. After that it finishes closing normally.

I just bought the car a few days ago and it didn't have this problem, so I think I caught it early. After some reading I thought it might be the cables. Any ideas?

Posted (edited)

Okay, now I'm getting a little further into the problem. This morning I came out to look at the cables and the top wouldn't open at all. It was pretty much the same problem described in the thread you linked to - I could hear it trying to work, only the top didn't move. So I took the clamshell off from inside (that was really hard), and found a couple of pieces missing and a couple broken. Here's a rundown -

1) This one was my fault. While trying to get the clamshell off I broke the clip that held on the black shock absorber looking thing. Here's a pick from the other side that's still intact -

post-18138-1174514029_thumb.jpg

2) On the passenger side there's a bolt missing. It looks like a mechanism that guides the canvas into place. It still works alright, which is probably why I've never noticed it not being there.

post-18138-1174514043_thumb.jpg

3) The push rod with the red clip on the drivers side is missing the bold that connects it to the V lever. It's not the bolt on the V lever itself, but one in between the lever and the push rod. I think this is what caused the problem in the first place.

post-18138-1174514053_thumb.jpg

4) The V lever on the passenger side has some sort of rubber washer that's falling apart.

post-18138-1174514063_thumb.jpg

5) The straps on both sides that (I think) pull the canvas inside the plastic are broken. From what I can tell they are supposed to wrap around a metal bar on the inside of the top. If so, that's an easy fix.

post-18138-1174514073_thumb.jpg

Now I need to make sure I know what all these parts are, where to get replacements, and how to install the replacements. None of it looks too terribly complicated so long as I can get the right parts. Any help there would be greatly appreciated.

Also, is there anything else I should be doing while I'm back there? Like checking cables or transmissions or anything?

Edited by Jarrod
Posted

that's some good detective work! ;)

i will refer you back to the original linked post that i pointed you to before. it has grown and now has more information that will help you. i already typed all the answers in the other post, so it's easier (for me, hehe) to just point you to that post. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=13065

i got my replacement parts at Sunset Imports www.sunsetimports.com. they have very good prices. you will pay almost double their prices if you buy from another dealer. i would call them and talk with Jeff Clark. Jeff knows his stuff and has helped me out immeasurably in the past. Jeff's email is JeffClark at Sunset Imports dot com.

1) you can order more of these brass clips. buy a few of them (10 or so) so you will have some extras. they're very cheap. in the future, separate the black canister arm from the V-lever which is much easier than removing that brass clip that you broke. the canister arm just pops off of the V-lever.

2) if you send Jeff the picture of the missing bolt, he can probably tell you which one you need.

3) that bolt that is missing on the push-arm adjusts the length of the push-arm. if you order new push-arms (recommended) they will have this bolt included. even if the red ball joints are not broken, it's a good idea to replace them with the new push-arms which have the stronger, reinforced white ball joints.

4) ask Jeff about the rubber washer (bushing). i thought that my new push-arms came with this new bushing, but i can't remember.

5) i'm not sure what to do about those straps.

as far as doing anything else while you're in there, i would absolutely check the cables. but if you're going to be ordering parts, i would just get the new updated cables, as the old cables WILL eventually stretch. the part numbers for the new cables are in post #5 of the linked thread above.

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