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Recommended Posts

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

I just completed my first oil change on the TT, after reading everything I could find here, at Rennlist, and at CFG’s site and talking to both the service and the parts folks (and looking at diagrams) at Carlsen. It was still a little confusing, so in the interest of perhaps helping others (and getting feedback on my approach), here is my story.

Tools you will need:

Turkey Baster

15 mm socket

19mm socket

Oil Filter Wrench (same as the Boxster or 996

8 mm Hex socket (if you want to drain the turbos)

Torque wrench

I bought a couple of cases of the obligatory Mobil 1 0W-40, now branded as SuperSyn instead of Tri-Synthetic. Got mine at Valley Oil in Mountain View (behind Allison BMW). I also bought a filter (part # 996-107-225-52; same as Boxster and 996) and aluminum crush ring ( part # 900-123-106-30 for the oil tank plug) at Carlsens in Redwood City. More on the crush ring later. This morning I got out the Rhino ramps, backed the car on them, and crawled under with my Allen wrench, expecting to see a drain plug with an Allen fitting on the case pointing at the pavement. No plug. There is a bolt which could be a plug mounted crosswise, pointing at the drivers’ side wheel. Is that it, I wonder? More reading, calling around, and a friend with a 993 assured me that it sounded right. So I put a 15mm socket on the rachet, cross my fingers, and turn. Sure enough, it is a plug, and when I get it out fluid which looks like oil pours out. For a little while. Like, maybe 1.5 quarts. Hmmm, I think to myself, that’s a REALLY dry sump.

Similar concerns about the correct ID of the oil tank plug, which is forward of the engine on the passenger side. The plug takes a 19mm socket, and when removed allowed substantially more oil to flow into the pan. While that is going on, I fit the oil filter wrench around the filter and removed the filter housing using a pair of pliers to grip the wrench (not very elegant, but it worked). I plan to buy a socket large enough to fit it (appears to take a 25mm). The filter, as we all know, is on the top of the engine. As you unscrew the filter housing, oil begins to flow from the bottom of the attachment point, so next time I will put a rag under it before I start. After you remove the filter, there will be about a half cup of oil ready to spill out of the housing and run down the engine. Here is where the turkey baster comes in handy-next time I will have it closer to hand as well (and I’ll try to remember to replace the one I “borrowed” from the kitchen before the wife notices it is gone ;) ). Put on new filter and O-ring, replaced housing and tightened to what I hope is an OK setting (supposed to be 18 ft-lbs-can’t check until I get that socket).

I had decided earlier that I was not going to bother draining the Turbos. It is not part of the dealer servicing, and gives you only about a half-quart of additional oil. Given that there is still 4 quarts in there even if you do that, I didn’t figure it was worth it either, but go for it if you want to.

Replaced the plug on the case using the same crush ring (Carlsen’s either told me there wasn’t one or that I didn’t need a new one, don’t remember which. In any event, I didn’t have an extra so I just re-installed the plug with the previous ring and torqued to 37 ft-lbs. Note-on one earlier post someone said the recommended torque on a TT was 52 ft-lbs. Anyone know for sure?

Next moved to the Oil Tank, where I found that the crush ring I had purchased did not fit. It is the correct outer diameter, but is too wide (ie, the inner diameter is too small), so it won’t fit over the plug. The one it would have replaced is copper, and I had to re-use that one too. Tightened the oil tank plug to 44 ft-lbs.

Re-filled the engine with 8 quarts of oil, checking underneath for leaks from time to time, then crossed my fingers and started it up. When it warmed up, I checked the level, and it was dead in the middle (2 bars down). Drove off the ramps, cleaned everything up, and relaxed with a beverage to write this up.

Before next time I plan to get the crush ring size and material sorted out and get a socket for the Oil filter wrench.

  • Admin
Posted

JayM,

I sent you (via email) a link to a draft of TT oil change instructions. Have a look and tell me where it can be improved.

Thanks! :beer:

  • Moderators
Posted

Jay, sounds like you have the wrench sold by Porsche made by Mann. I had that one for years and did not like it because it needs a 27mm socket to turn it - the one on the right in pic. I then bought a Hazet wrench and it has a square hole for a 3/8" extension. Jeff

tool_oil_filter1.sized.jpg

tool_oil_filter2.sized.jpg

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